The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Reminds me a little of the Nikon 80-200mm I once had paired with a D3. A beast of a lens, which you could shave with.
 
robj20 said:
I took my 50mm and 35mm with me yesterday on my 20km walk. Started with the 50mm and over the course of the first hour realised it just doesn't work for me, everytime I go to frame a shot it just doesn't fit in and I just want to attach the 35.

Do you all find it the same that a certain focal length just works for you and suits the way you see the image in your head before you even point the camera?
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I find 24mm to be getting a bit wide and a bit too limiting for a do it all length and 85mm a bit long and limiting for a do it all walk about so somewhere between 28 and 65mm suits me best but having said that for a while my 20mm and 12-24mm were my most used lenses and later I used a 50mm a lot on MFT giving a FF FoV of 100mm. Generally I prefer something between 28 to 50/55mm. I used to use my Sigma 50mm f1.4 a lot but now I generally prefer 35mm as a do it all lens. These days I'll add a close up filter to my little set up too,
 
I've just had a read about the Meike 50mm f1.7 and I'm tempted to give one a try and see how it compares to old film era lenses but the aperture ring being clickless and easy to turn puts me off as I can see that being annoying especially as there's no coms with the camera to give you a clue you've moved it. Oh well. Never mind.
 
woof woof said:
I've just had a read about the Meike 50mm f1.7 and I'm tempted to give one a try and see how it compares to old film era lenses but the aperture ring being clickless and easy to turn puts me off as I can see that being annoying especially as there's no coms with the camera to give you a clue you've moved it. Oh well. Never mind.
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I wish I'd got the Meike instead of the Sony F1.8 a bit cheaper and more character.
 
Wowza.

Voigtlander 35mm f2 apo announced.

Rumor site...

Just announced: new Cosina-Voigtländer 35mm f/2.0 Lanthar FE lens | sonyalpharumors

Cosina Japan just announced the new lens. English press text and worldwide price info are expected to be unveiled in the coming weeks. Here is the google translated text from the original Japanese press text: Adopted an apochromat design that makes the on-axis chromatic aberration of RGB, which...
www.sonyalpharumors.com www.sonyalpharumors.com

Thread on FM...


The 50mm f2 apo is IMO outstanding so if they've done as good a job on this 35mm it'll be a very nice lens indeed :D

"blade diaphragm blades that allow you to enjoy the expression of bokeh The special shape that makes a circle not only in F2 but also in F2.8, F5.6, and F16 is adopted. It is possible to draw using “ball blur” such as a point light source."

So, who's getting one?

I probably wont as I have the 35mm f1.4, 40mm f1.2 and 50mm f2. I think if I was tempted to do anything it'd be to swap the 40mm f1.2 for either the 35mm f1.2 or perhaps more likely the 50mm f1.2.
 
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robj20 said:
I wish I'd got the Meike instead of the Sony F1.8 a bit cheaper and more character.
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I think I'd have bought one if it wasn't for that clickless aperture. I suppose it depends how easy it is to move but even for about £100 for me it's a risk not really worth taking as there could be just too much annoyance and disappointment.
 
simonbarker said:
Compare the number of views between those videos and you'll have your answer.
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Yeah my post was tongue in cheek, but it must really wind manufacturers up when they see these reviews from people who clearly don’t know how to set the gear up properly.

I wonder if that other review has been posted onto the Northrup’s comments section? ;)
 
Is there a way to change the colour of the box that flashes to show that you are taking shots when in silent continuous shooting? I’m not talking about the AF box which you can change from white to red, but the box that’s almost as wide as the frame that flashes when you take the shots, as highlighted below. I’m sure I saw a video that showed that you can, but I can’t find it again and I can’t find anything in the menus so I may have dreamt it ;)

062F1DFE-76C0-44A3-BCFF-319AB0B9A7A3.jpeg
 
Admiring Light, Voigtlander 50mm f2 apo review.. He's a bit late but his reviews are usually good.

admiringlight.com

Review: Voigtländer 50mm f/2 APO-Lanthar -

Admiring Light's Voigtländer 50mm f/2 APO-Lanthar review goes in-depth on Cosina Voigtländer's incredible tiny 50mm lens.
admiringlight.com admiringlight.com

"In all, the Voigtländer 50mm f/2 APO-Lanthar is a truly exceptional optic. It ranks right up there with some of the very best lenses I’ve ever used."

"Voigtländer has crafted a modern classic with the 50mm f/2 APO-Lanthar. It’s a reference optic at 50mm and a triumph of optical design."
 
snerkler said:
Interesting, I’d heard it mentioned before but never actually seen it. I’m going to have to do my own tests now :LOL:
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I've heard/read this before but I've never seen the differences in near enough identical pictures before. I wonder what causes this.
 
I did some more colour tests today

colourprofiles by Daniel Cook, on Flickr

Adobe Colour left vs Color Fidelity Standard V2 right

But everything was still a little tinted by yellow, so I cooled the image down a made some minor tweaks - and now I've got an image that, to me, looks far better than what the raw gave me

Final by Daniel Cook, on Flickr

I'm stepping towards enjoying the Sony just that bit more :)
 
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snerkler said:
Is there a way to change the colour of the box that flashes to show that you are taking shots when in silent continuous shooting? I’m not talking about the AF box which you can change from white to red, but the box that’s almost as wide as the frame that flashes when you take the shots, as highlighted below. I’m sure I saw a video that showed that you can, but I can’t find it again and I can’t find anything in the menus so I may have dreamt it ;)

View attachment 308940
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I think thats a new option on the a1 teal or turquoise i belive.
Rob.
 
snerkler said:
Is there a way to change the colour of the box that flashes to show that you are taking shots when in silent continuous shooting? I’m not talking about the AF box which you can change from white to red, but the box that’s almost as wide as the frame that flashes when you take the shots, as highlighted below. I’m sure I saw a video that showed that you can, but I can’t find it again and I can’t find anything in the menus so I may have dreamt it ;)

View attachment 308940
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GyRob said:
I think thats a new option on the a1 teal or turquoise i belive.

Rob.
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@snerkler - should have bought the A1.
 
GyRob said:
I think thats a new option on the a1 teal or turquoise i belive.
Rob.
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Ahh right, I must’ve watched an A1 video then and got confused :lol: Hopefully it’ll filter down, I’m still unsure that I’m taking a shot at times until I review the image :thinking: :LOL:
 
I had the same problem with the A9 initially as well and kept taking additional photos just to make sure.
 
snerkler said:
Ahh right, I must’ve watched an A1 video then and got confused :LOL: Hopefully it’ll filter down, I’m still unsure that I’m taking a shot at times until I review the image :thinking: :LOL:
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you can add sound to the electronic shutter well on the a9mkii not sure about the a9 though.
Rob.
 
woof woof said:
I've heard/read this before but I've never seen the differences in near enough identical pictures before. I wonder what causes this.
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No idea. I could see why a different shutter might affect exposure a touch but not sure why it affects the bokeh. I wonder if it’s a kind of motion artefact that will be negated with global shutters or whether there’s more to it than that. It was interesting that one person in the comments got the opposite results though, hence why I need to see for myself ;)
 
GyRob said:
you can add sound to the electronic shutter well on the a9mkii not sure about the a9 though.
Rob.
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Yeah I tried that but prefer the silence ;)
 
snerkler said:
No idea. I could see why a different shutter might affect exposure a touch but not sure why it affects the bokeh. I wonder if it’s a kind of motion artefact that will be negated with global shutters or whether there’s more to it than that. It was interesting that one person in the comments got the opposite results though, hence why I need to see for myself ;)
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The link the video refers to is regarding an A7RII and non-native lenses, I don't think it applies to the A9 or A1 series.
 
JohnMcL7 said:
The link the video refers to is regarding an A7RII and non-native lenses, I don't think it applies to the A9 or A1 series.
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TBH I didn’t take note of which model he was using but then did use a Fuji which had a similar issue. If it doesn’t happen with the A9’s and A1 then it would suggest sensor readout time as the issue then I reckon?
 
Just out of interest I think I've read similar complains about EFCS so I've just tried my A7 with EFCS and not and I can't see any difference at f1.4.

Has anyone seen any difference in bokeh between normal and EFCS?
 
woof woof said:
Just out of interest I think I've read similar complains about EFCS so I've just tried my A7 with EFCS and not and I can't see any difference at f1.4.

Has anyone seen any difference in bokeh between normal and EFCS?
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I haven’t but then I’ve not specifically looked for it. With my A9-II and the Sigma 85mm DG DN I really like the Bokeh so have no reason to change my shooting habits (y)

I will try it though just out of curiosity ;)
 
snerkler said:
I haven’t but then I’ve not specifically looked for it. With my A9-II and the Sigma 85mm DG DN I really like the Bokeh so have no reason to change my shooting habits (y)

I will try it though just out of curiosity ;)
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The reason for changing to EFCS or even electronic is to either reduce vibrations or in the case of electronic shutter to also allow faster than 1/4k shutter speeds.

With some cameras there's no purely mechanical option. The A7c for example. With that camera you can't turn EFCS off and you can't shoot faster than 1/4k unless you use the electronic shutter so if you want to shoot at wide apertures in good light the electronic shutter could be your only way to do it, assuming you're not faffing on with ND's.

I normally keep my A7 set to EFCS and I haven't noticed anything too bad bokeh wise, ditto with my MFT cameras which switch to the electronic shutter for faster than 1/4k shots. Just for my own interests I'll do some bokeh test shots, EFCS on and off and electronic v mechanical.
 
woof woof said:
The reason for changing to EFCS or even electronic is to either reduce vibrations or in the case of electronic shutter to also allow faster than 1/4k shutter speeds.

With some cameras there's no purely mechanical option. The A7c for example. With that camera you can't turn EFCS off and you can't shoot faster than 1/4k unless you use the electronic shutter so if you want to shoot at wide apertures in good light the electronic shutter could be your only way to do it, assuming you're not faffing on with ND's.

I normally keep my A7 set to EFCS and I haven't noticed anything too bad bokeh wise, ditto with my MFT cameras which switch to the electronic shutter for faster than 1/4k shots. Just for my own interests I'll do some bokeh test shots, EFCS on and off and electronic v mechanical.
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I didn’t realise some cameras don’t have fully mechanical options. I guess 99% of people won’t see the minor issues caused by using it though.
 
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