The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

A7C+tamron 28-200mm

I am pretty impressed with the compactness and IQ from this combo.
Wouldn't put the lens on my A7RIV but on A7C its very good.

At what picture size or magnification do you think any lens weaknesses would be visible? If for example you view an A7RIV + 28-200mm picture at the same size and viewing distance that you'd view an A7c + 28-200mm picture what would the differences be? What do the extra mp's bring you?

I'm not being argumentative, I am just wondering, we all know that some lenses are better than others.

I've long thought that the end image and how it is to be viewed is the key and starting point for both the kit and the settings. I do think that 24mp is enough for me for an A3 print and I do think it's easily enough for me for a 100% crop to be looked at on a screen. Apart from the extra cropability, I'm not sure what I'd do with more mp's.
 
At what picture size or magnification do you think any lens weaknesses would be visible? If for example you view an A7RIV + 28-200mm picture at the same size and viewing distance that you'd view an A7c + 28-200mm picture what would the differences be? What do the extra mp's bring you?

I'm not being argumentative, I am just wondering, we all know that some lenses are better than others.

I've long thought that the end image and how it is to be viewed is the key and starting point for both the kit and the settings. I do think that 24mp is enough for me for an A3 print and I do think it's easily enough for me for a 100% crop to be looked at on a screen. Apart from the extra cropability, I'm not sure what I'd do with more mp's.

Well if you normalise them to similar sizes and viewing distance, results out of A7RIV would actually be better.
But A7RIV in general gives me more cropping room.

So the question really is (for me) if I crop say result from A7RIV+24-105mm 1.5x (26mp @ 160mm FoV) or 2x (15mp @ 210mm FoV) would it be better or worst than 28-200mm on A7C (or I guess on A7RIV downsized to same res).... and me thinks the A7C+tamron would win over cropping in from A7RIV files with a 24-105mm. Also its smaller+lighter.

And in a pinch the centre sharpness of 28-200mm is actually rather decent even on A7RIV to crop in to get some more digital reach.
 
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At what picture size or magnification do you think any lens weaknesses would be visible? If for example you view an A7RIV + 28-200mm picture at the same size and viewing distance that you'd view an A7c + 28-200mm picture what would the differences be? What do the extra mp's bring you?

I'm not being argumentative, I am just wondering, we all know that some lenses are better than others.

I've long thought that the end image and how it is to be viewed is the key and starting point for both the kit and the settings. I do think that 24mp is enough for me for an A3 print and I do think it's easily enough for me for a 100% crop to be looked at on a screen. Apart from the extra cropability, I'm not sure what I'd do with more mp's.

I think this is rather what I was talking about a couple of pages back, where I was saying that zooms were disappointing and discouraging for me when processing, even though the difference in image quality was probably un-discernable when viewing on the WWW.
 
I think this is rather what I was talking about a couple of pages back, where I was saying that zooms were disappointing and discouraging for me when processing, even though the difference in image quality was probably un-discernable when viewing on the WWW.

How big would you have to print to tell the difference?

I can generally start telling from A4 sizes and more so around A3 but then I have prints held up to my face. So if you view an A3 print from a "normal" viewing distance, can you tell the difference?

to be honest I have never done a comparison, most of my prints were shot with primes or with 100-400mm/200-600mm telephoto (and I don't have or can afford a teleprime to compare anyway).
 
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How big would you have to print to tell the difference?

I can generally start telling from A4 sizes and more so around A3 but then I have prints held up to my face. So if you view an A3 print from a "normal" viewing distance, can you tell the difference?

to be honest I have never done a comparison, most of my prints were shot with primes or with 100-400mm/200-600mm telephoto (and I don't have or can afford a teleprime to compare anyway).

How big? 12X16 at least. I think the issue for my is that when I check sharpness, I've become used to lenses that can pretty much match camera resolution, and when I use a lens that can't do that, unless it's for the effect, it's disappointing depending on the shot type.
 
How big? 12X16 at least. I think the issue for my is that when I check sharpness, I've become used to lenses that can pretty much match camera resolution, and when I use a lens that can't do that, unless it's for the effect, it's disappointing depending on the shot type.

well you are stuck with primes for that then :D
there are some good premium zooms too but you won't get that from an f4 or variable aperture zoom.

OR get an A7Siii, everything will seem sharp ;)
though tbh most modern optics can handle 24mp pretty well.
 
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I like squirrels :D

Tree rats but cute enough. :D I've got a 'squirrel buster' feeder for the birds. It's spring loaded and closes the food holes when the squirrel jumps on it. Works brilliantly! But I've also got a dedicated squirrel feeder.
 
Doubt in getting my A7C today, looks like FedEx have screwed up and it's now in Japan and just says pending.

Panamoz showing off their good service again. Even at this time of day 6am, they've spoken to FedEx it's delayed so panamoz offered me a £20 refund.
 
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I'm bored so posting a few shots I don't think I've posted from my day at Camden. That's if anyone else is bored and wants to look at a few random photos. :)


Camden Lock umbrellas
by Merlin 5, on Flickr

Amy Winehouse, because she lived in Camden and I love her music.


Camden Lock Amy Winehouse
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Dragon
by Merlin 5, on Flickr

I did put coins in his hat after.


Camden Lock Busker
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Bridge Grafitti
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Waffles
by Merlin 5, on Flickr

This a new Busta Rhymes album released the day I was there. Perhaps a Banksy or maybe commissioned from the record company.


Camden Lock grafitti
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Phone Camera
by Merlin 5, on Flickr
 
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I'm bored so posting a few shots I don't think I've posted from my day at Camden. That's if anyone else is bored and wants to look at a few random photos. :)


Camden Lock umbrellas
by Merlin 5, on Flickr

Amy Winehouse, because she lived in Camden and I love her music.


Camden Lock Amy Winehouse
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Dragon
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Busker
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Bridge Grafitti
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Waffles
by Merlin 5, on Flickr

This a new Busta Rhymes album released the day I was there. Perhaps a Banksy or maybe commissioned from the record company.


Camden Lock grafitti
by Merlin 5, on Flickr


Camden Lock Phone Camera
by Merlin 5, on Flickr

Camden is really great for street photography. really liking the colours in some of these shots.
Nice compositions too. certainly enjoyed looking through them.

I suck at street photography and had plans to improve but lockdown has shot down my dreams :P
 
Camden is really great for street photography. really liking the colours in some of these shots.
Nice compositions too. certainly enjoyed looking through them.

I suck at street photography and had plans to improve but lockdown has shot down my dreams :p

Thanks. :) Yes, I was wondering where I could go do some street and then *ding*,.. camden came to mind.
I'd watched some youtube videos of cameras being stuck right in people's faces and thought that's not for me. So in most instances I asked if I could take someone's portrait and said I was doing a photography course to put them at ease. Some declined and some said yes but I believe that's the best approach unless I could shoot them without them noticing.
 
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I'd watched some youtube videos of cameras being stuck right in people's faces and thought that's not for me.
If that's not for you, have you thought about using the fishing technique in your street photography? Basically, you find a composition you like and then wait for people to walk through your scene. You might have to wait a few minutes for the right person to walk though, some photographers are known to wait hours!
 
If that's not for you, have you thought about using the fishing technique in your street photography? Basically, you find a composition you like and then wait for people to walk through your scene. You might have to wait a few minutes for the right person to walk though, some photographers are known to wait hours!

Yes indeed, I'd learnt about the fishing technique, but I blew it. :p On my way home that day, I noticed grafitti along a wall, so focused on it and waited for someone to walk into my focus point. I got some shots but binned them for two reasons. There wasn't enough daylight to make the scene look nice, I should have done it earlier in the day. And two, I hadn't really figured out how to track and freeze people in motion (I've since practised and know how to do it now) so there was too much motion blur. And at that time of day, to increase the shutter speed sufficiently and be at around f7.1, it would have made the image too dark. Love your shots, particularly the last one!
 
I didn't know whether or not to get it. But the range isn't for me looking at my previous photos I use 24mm a lot.

Same here in the end decided to leave it as I'd almost always prefer to use other lenses over it. While lack of 24mm on its own isn't end of the world for me, its only 60mm and its f4-5.6.
Plus not a fan of the "unlocking" mechanism.
 
I like squirrels and I like dogs too :D
Love Jacks! You’ve had more luck photographing yours than I have!

She is lush! Adores the ground I walk on & she isn't even my dog! :ROFLMAO: I've only been around about half her life.

I have more photos of her (& the late boy Jack Russell we lost in April) with manual lenses than I do AF lenses!
 
@nandbytes have you seen the issues some are having with the A7C EVF splitting in half?

Hopefully mine arrives today after a flight was cancelled delaying it.
 
@nandbytes have you seen the issues some are having with the A7C EVF splitting in half?

Hopefully mine arrives today after a flight was cancelled delaying it.

Haven't seen that or even know off this issue.
Last time I looked though it which was yesterday it was fine.
 
Check dpreview.

The kit lens may be the issue it seems reading the thread.
Don't have the kit lens to test and considering I may never do at the price it sells at I won't know i guess lol

Works just fine with all my lenses though and I have lenses from all manufacturers Sony, tamron, sigma and Samyang :LOL:
 
The kit lens may be the issue it seems reading the thread.
Don't have the kit lens to test and considering I may never do at the price it sells at I won't know i guess lol

Works just fine with all my lenses though and I have lenses from all manufacturers Sony, tamron, sigma and Samyang :LOL:
Any tips with the new camera, I'm going to have to spend some time setting mine up, it looks a fairly big jump regards the AF features from my A7R.

From what I have read AF-C is best and enable face tracking and what not.
AF-C on my A7R was useless so was always in either AF-S or DMF.
 
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Any tips with the new camera, I'm going to have to spend some time setting mine up, it looks a fairly big jump regards the AF features from my A7R.

From what I have read AF-C is best and enable face tracking and what not.
AF-C on my A7R was useless so was always in either AF-S or DMF.

Stick it in AF-C with tracking AF point (flexible medium point for accuracy) and forget about it for the most part. Just focus and recompose if you need to move the AF point and the camera will track it really well and keep things in focus.

Can't get simpler really.

The main difference you'll notice is the lack of Forefinger dial but on A7C you set a custom button to toggle between what the dial do which is really useful. So if you are using aperture priority you can toggle it so the two dials change aperture and ISO.

Also you have setting like minimum shutter speeds while using auto ISO so that the camera will always try to achieve a certain shutter speed.

It's a very powerful camera features wise. In some way better than even my A7RIV. So take your time learning it :)
 
She's the opposite. She'll be stood or sat nicely and the minute you move or squat down to compose she just comes to you :rolleyes::p

Mine won't play nice like that. The only things that would distract them from being photographed are meat and other dogs, basically eating and fighting and I couldn't really say which they enjoy the most. My avatar makes them look like little angels but that's terriers for you :)
 
High Rise Home.

f6WmdCH.jpg


Only just respecting personal space.

z8ynqyu.jpg
 
Any tips with the new camera, I'm going to have to spend some time setting mine up, it looks a fairly big jump regards the AF features from my A7R.

From what I have read AF-C is best and enable face tracking and what not.
AF-C on my A7R was useless so was always in either AF-S or DMF.

What nandbytes said. And just to elaborate a little on that.
There's a bunch of 'standard' selectable AF focus areas such as wide, zone, flexible point, centre etc, But there's also the real time tracking focus areas which say 'Tracking: Wide', 'Tracking: Zone', 'Tracking: Flexible Spot', etc. And it'll have a little symbol and a down arrow next to it. This is the one you need that will put a larger box over the subject and follow and keep track of it.

You won't be able to use the real time tracking focus areas while using animal eye AF, or conversely you can't use the animal eye AF when using the tracking focus areas. You'll need to switch from human to animal in the subject detection menu which will default back to a standard focus area and animal eye AF will then be enabled. However, when your subject detection is set to human, you can use the real time tracking focus areas and it'll still do eye AF on humans but not animals as far as I recall. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I set up a shortcut with the Fn menu and on one of the C buttons on my camera so that I can swap quickly between animal and human.
 
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