The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Took my very recently acquired (2 days!) A7R3 and 100-400 FE to the park this evening for our dog walk. It's the first time I've taken it out. I set the body to my M1 which I would use for static birds which essentially is CAF, auto ISO, H+ shutter and flexible spot S . The shutter speed is set at 1/1000 with lens at widest aperture permitted by focal length of the zoom, in this case 5.6 as the lens was at 400mm.
The first shot was as the dog jumped out of the car and ran through a darkened area:
42068877302_b2896b17a1_c.jpg


considering that was at 12,800 ISO I'm quite pleased with the quality.
Shortly after that I found it difficult to acquire focus, the green box failed to illuminate. This wasn't consistent, I could get some frames to focus. We then came across a small white dog in a clearing. It was trotting slowly towards us and I failed to find focus in all 6 frames:
42068878122_f58582e661_c.jpg

Could this be a problem of lack of contrast causing AF failure?
 
footman said:
Took my very recently acquired (2 days!) A7R3 and 100-400 FE to the park this evening for our dog walk. It's the first time I've taken it out. I set the body to my M1 which I would use for static birds which essentially is CAF, auto ISO, H+ shutter and flexible spot S . The shutter speed is set at 1/1000 with lens at widest aperture permitted by focal length of the zoom, in this case 5.6 as the lens was at 400mm.
The first shot was as the dog jumped out of the car and ran through a darkened area:
42068877302_b2896b17a1_c.jpg


considering that was at 12,800 ISO I'm quite pleased with the quality.
Shortly after that I found it difficult to acquire focus, the green box failed to illuminate. This wasn't consistent, I could get some frames to focus. We then came across a small white dog in a clearing. It was trotting slowly towards us and I failed to find focus in all 6 frames:
42068878122_f58582e661_c.jpg

Could this be a problem of lack of contrast causing AF failure?
Click to expand...
It could be user error ;)

You say you use flexible spot, what that spot in the middle? Your dog is definitely not in middle of the frame. You need expanded flexible spot of you want the camera to track across the frame.
 
nandbytes said:
It could be user error ;)

You say you use flexible spot, what that spot in the middle? Your dog is definitely not in middle of the frame. You need expanded flexible spot of you want the camera to track across the frame.
Click to expand...
Even if it was the middle spot/af point it’s still not focussed where it should ;)
 
snerkler said:
Even if it was the middle spot/af point it’s still not focussed where it should ;)
Click to expand...
Yes I noticed that. But it's a wall of green with CAF who knows what the silly camera was thinking. You aren't going to get good results continuously focussing on the lawn no matter what camera ;)
 
Thanks for the comments. Point taken about the white dog not being in the centre of the frame as I was using flexible spot, I should have been tracking it. This shot should have nailed it though;
42075755302_dd506e7c37_c.jpg


I was sat in the garden just now and found that finding focus was a bit iffy when the lens was set to 3m>∞ but functioned perfectly when set to full.

Generally I take the view that most of the time it's user error!
 
footman said:
Thanks for the comments. Point taken about the white dog not being in the centre of the frame as I was using flexible spot, I should have been tracking it. This shot should have nailed it though;
42075755302_dd506e7c37_c.jpg


I was sat in the garden just now and found that finding focus was a bit iffy when the lens was set to 3m>∞ but functioned perfectly when set to full.

Generally I take the view that most of the time it's user error!
Click to expand...

3m isn't that far. Less than 10feet if my mental math is still sharp. If the subject was close-ish then it wouldn't be reliable. The focus limiter is only kinda useful for far away large objects like cars, planes etc
 
nandbytes said:
3m isn't that far. Less than 10feet if my mental math is still sharp. If the subject was close-ish then it wouldn't be reliable. The focus limiter is only kinda useful for far away large objects like cars, planes etc
Click to expand...
You're quite correct, however I'm still finding an inconsistency in that if I fail to find focus in "full" mode I switch to ∞ > 3m and then back again and I find focus instantly.
 
nandbytes said:
Yes I noticed that. But it's a wall of green with CAF who knows what the silly camera was thinking. You aren't going to get good results continuously focussing on the lawn no matter what camera ;)
Click to expand...
I'm still to work out how cameras 'think' ;) TBF grass shouldn't be difficult to focus on.

footman said:
Thanks for the comments. Point taken about the white dog not being in the centre of the frame as I was using flexible spot, I should have been tracking it. This shot should have nailed it though;
42075755302_dd506e7c37_c.jpg


I was sat in the garden just now and found that finding focus was a bit iffy when the lens was set to 3m>∞ but functioned perfectly when set to full.

Generally I take the view that most of the time it's user error!
Click to expand...
That could be it. On all shots the focus is massively back focussed, perhaps the dog was closer than 3m?
 
stevelmx5 said:
I'm guessing he meant the fact that there are thousands of blades of grass within the frame so with C-AF the camera will be jumping between them.
Click to expand...
Well it should at least be one of those under the focus point, not miles away in the background :p
 
snerkler said:
Well it should at least be one of those under the focus point, not miles away in the background :p
Click to expand...


Without knowing the actual distance between the camera and subject, it's hard to know if the MFD of the lens was the grass at the back of the shot or it was just way off ;0)
 
stevelmx5 said:
Without knowing the actual distance between the camera and subject, it's hard to know if the MFD of the lens was the grass at the back of the shot or it was just way off ;0)
Click to expand...
If I hadn't formatted the card then I'd be able to see the focus point, I'll have a look for the little white dog later and see if I can replicate it.
 
This is long but does anyone know if a custom button can be assigned both a focusing mode and back button focus at the same time?


1 – With the Canon, I use spot focus and position it on the eye and when the red dot blinks to confirm focus. I am never 100% certain it actually has focused properly. In fact, I would say it’s more 50/50. I can never understand why.


2 – With the Sony, when I press Eye-AF and when that lights up, I am 99% sure focus was achieved.


Lately I have 3 focusing modes set up with the Canon.


1 – Just shutter button. I always use single point focus and move it around the OVF before I take a shot.

2 – Back button focus. Press and hold to switch the focusing system to zone focus with Face detection in continuous focus.

3 – Back button focus with AF-On. Press and hold will switch the focusing system to every points available with continuous AF and with Face detection on. This is when something happened so fast in the frame that is not on the right side of the single focus point. This is more an emergency shooting mode to catch something happening.


So leaving the single point generally around 1/3 to the right and 1/3 down, that’s the framing for most shots.


Press * once and roll the wheel a few notches to the left to move it 1/3rd the other side without looking.

Press joystick in to reset it to centre without looking.

Hold back button focus to set the entire column of focus point up but keeping the 1/3 framing.

Hold a different back button to trigger every focus point.


Without looking at the camera with 1 hand purely I can capture everything and get focus with the appropriate AF mode in the time lifting the camera to my eye.


With the Sony it’s actually more awkward as I can only toggle between the one it is in to a preset AF point. If I move the af point whilst it is in the preset focus, it switches to a single point focus mode….


So the best scenario is to leave it in single point (preset) focus at 1/3 right and 1/3rd down and flip to all 693 points if something happens.


The moment I use the wheel to move the focus points it removes 693 points and would need to select that back manually and not a 1 button press. If only back focus button can also be linked to a focus mode on the Sony. Currently AF-On is just back button and AEL is eye-af. If AF-ON can be back button continuous focus with an AF mode assigned……
 
One last one before we go out.

A7 and trusty Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 at f5, crop 100%, fly on a leaf.

DSC00164-S-C.jpg

And the whole thing.

DSC00164-S.jpg
 
Last edited:
Raymond Lin said:
This is long but does anyone know if a custom button can be assigned both a focusing mode and back button focus at the same time?


1 – With the Canon, I use spot focus and position it on the eye and when the red dot blinks to confirm focus. I am never 100% certain it actually has focused properly. In fact, I would say it’s more 50/50. I can never understand why.


2 – With the Sony, when I press Eye-AF and when that lights up, I am 99% sure focus was achieved.


Lately I have 3 focusing modes set up with the Canon.


1 – Just shutter button. I always use single point focus and move it around the OVF before I take a shot.

2 – Back button focus. Press and hold to switch the focusing system to zone focus with Face detection in continuous focus.

3 – Back button focus with AF-On. Press and hold will switch the focusing system to every points available with continuous AF and with Face detection on. This is when something happened so fast in the frame that is not on the right side of the single focus point. This is more an emergency shooting mode to catch something happening.


So leaving the single point generally around 1/3 to the right and 1/3 down, that’s the framing for most shots.


Press * once and roll the wheel a few notches to the left to move it 1/3rd the other side without looking.

Press joystick in to reset it to centre without looking.

Hold back button focus to set the entire column of focus point up but keeping the 1/3 framing.

Hold a different back button to trigger every focus point.


Without looking at the camera with 1 hand purely I can capture everything and get focus with the appropriate AF mode in the time lifting the camera to my eye.


With the Sony it’s actually more awkward as I can only toggle between the one it is in to a preset AF point. If I move the af point whilst it is in the preset focus, it switches to a single point focus mode….


So the best scenario is to leave it in single point (preset) focus at 1/3 right and 1/3rd down and flip to all 693 points if something happens.


The moment I use the wheel to move the focus points it removes 693 points and would need to select that back manually and not a 1 button press. If only back focus button can also be linked to a focus mode on the Sony. Currently AF-On is just back button and AEL is eye-af. If AF-ON can be back button continuous focus with an AF mode assigned……
Click to expand...
just set a setting hold custom feature or whatever its called where you can set almot any settings that gets activated on a click of a button
 
jonneymendoza said:
just set a setting hold custom feature or whatever its called where you can set almot any settings that gets activated on a click of a button
Click to expand...

But can’t really assign the hold for the top buttons, awkward.


The rear 2 are already back button focus and eye af.
 
This is interesting below....





Just got my Sony 2x teleconverter. Totally surprised that the autofocus performance + Metabones 5 + Sigma 85mm f/1.4 and Canon 35mm f/1.4 L II to be very usable.
 
snerkler said:
I'm still to work out how cameras 'think' ;) TBF grass shouldn't be difficult to focus on.


That could be it. On all shots the focus is massively back focussed, perhaps the dog was closer than 3m?
Click to expand...
I know you people are on tenterhooks as to why I couldn't find focus yesterday, well I can put you out of your collective miseries. I postulate that the blame lies equally between my left thumb and those damned focus hold buttons on the 100-400. If your thumb happens to be over a button as mine was then applying a little pressure and holding it stops all auto focus:sony::mad:
 
footman said:
I know you people are on tenterhooks as to why I couldn't find focus yesterday, well I can put you out of your collective miseries. I postulate that the blame lies equally between my left thumb and those damned focus hold buttons on the 100-400. If your thumb happens to be over a button as mine was then applying a little pressure and holding it stops all auto focus:sony::mad:
Click to expand...

:banghead:
 
Raymond Lin said:
Can’t substitue the back focus or eye af because they are both hold button. I basically need a 3rd one.
Click to expand...

Like Jonney suggested joystick button? or the wheel centre button? there is also C4/delete button and C3 button top left corner?

(I imagine you can re-assign direction buttons on the wheel too?)
 
Last edited:
nandbytes said:
Like Jonney suggested joystick button? or the wheel centre button? there is also C4/delete button and C3 button top left corner?

(I imagine you can re-assign direction buttons on the wheel too?)
Click to expand...

Don’t want to use the joystick as a hold button because you risk moving it.

The centre of the wheel is too low down really. The point is switching focus modes quickly, and I already have accidentally press the iso on the wheel so don’t want my thumb to move around down there if I can avoid it.
 
RPhotos said:
Anyone using the Samyang 35 1.4 af lens? would be keen to hear any fed back on how you are finding it, plus if your able to compare the performance to the sigma 35mm with the MC-11 adapter on the a7iii that would be a bonus as well :) Thanks
Click to expand...

Can’t comment on the Sigma, but I have the Samyang 1.4 and the Zeiss 2.8 - the Samyang works just as well as the Sony, both for CAF, Eye AF etc. The focusing motor is a lot noisier than the Sony, though - something to note if you’re using it for video. Can’t imagine an external hot shoe mounted mic wouldn’t pick it up, tbh.

Fantastic lens for the money - not sure I see any point in using the Sigma unless you already owned one? Native > adapted, imo.
 
You be fine.try it
Raymond Lin said:
Don’t want to use the joystick as a hold button because you risk moving it.

The centre of the wheel is too low down really. The point is switching focus modes quickly, and I already have accidentally press the iso on the wheel so don’t want my thumb to move around down there if I can avoid it.
Click to expand...
 
Raymond Lin said:
Don’t want to use the joystick as a hold button because you risk moving it.

The centre of the wheel is too low down really. The point is switching focus modes quickly, and I already have accidentally press the iso on the wheel so don’t want my thumb to move around down there if I can avoid it.
Click to expand...

C3?
 
footman said:
I know you people are on tenterhooks as to why I couldn't find focus yesterday, well I can put you out of your collective miseries. I postulate that the blame lies equally between my left thumb and those damned focus hold buttons on the 100-400. If your thumb happens to be over a button as mine was then applying a little pressure and holding it stops all auto focus:sony::mad:
Click to expand...
:ROFLMAO:
 
ohms12 said:
Can’t comment on the Sigma, but I have the Samyang 1.4 and the Zeiss 2.8 - the Samyang works just as well as the Sony, both for CAF, Eye AF etc. The focusing motor is a lot noisier than the Sony, though - something to note if you’re using it for video. Can’t imagine an external hot shoe mounted mic wouldn’t pick it up, tbh.

Fantastic lens for the money - not sure I see any point in using the Sigma unless you already owned one? Native > adapted, imo.
Click to expand...
Thanks, yeah already have the sigma 35 1.4, debating on selling it, but if the samyang wasn’t a whole lot better then, would consider keeping the sigma, still have a foot in both camps for the time being, so trying to tactically switch over a bit a time
 
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