The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

dcash29 said:
Highlights -30 - auto colour - Hue -5 & Saturation -25 improves the colours in the shot you've illustrated in cs5 in my opinion.
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Are these JPEG changes? If so -30 highlight isn't an option for me but the other settings do work but her face turns more orange. The sky looks better though.

I'll play with this shot and another two taken in the same place again tomorrow.

Thanks all.
 
The values Ive said dont seem to work as well with the latest image. Try including colour balance magenta/green +10 on the forest images
 
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Has anyone else had issues with camera profiles on the new Lightroom Classic CC?

If I apply this preset to any image taken on the A7III it comes up with "profile missing", but as I understand it, I can use any preset with any camera on LR. If I apply the same profile to images taken on the A7 it has no issue. Any idea what's going on here...?

LR.jpeg
 
Some now edited.

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woof woof said:
With this one (blue bell wood) it started at temp 4700 and tint +8, to me it looks more natural on my screen at temp 6300, that's changing the blue towards the yellow.

Same camera and lens... another day... too green?

View attachment 126304
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Those colours are so much better. Is your screen calibrated?
 
So I'm thinking of going for the Sigma 85 Art lens when it comes out if the 50mm performs well that I've ordered

Have a brand new 55 Zeiss that was a replacement for a defective one that flared insanely bad. Anyone got an idea of how much I could fetch for it?

Also got a Zeiss Batis 85 that's only about 1.5 months old in mint condition from Park Cameras. Any idea on used price?
 
F/1.4 said:
So I'm thinking of going for the Sigma 85 Art lens when it comes out if the 50mm performs well that I've ordered

Have a brand new 55 Zeiss that was a replacement for a defective one that flared insanely bad. Anyone got an idea of how much I could fetch for it?

Also got a Zeiss Batis 85 that's only about 1.5 months old in mint condition from Park Cameras. Any idea on used price?
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There’s cashback on the 55mm atm so need to keep that in mind. How come you’re looking at the sigma over the gm?
 
addicknchips said:
There’s cashback on the 55mm atm so need to keep that in mind. How come you’re looking at the sigma over the gm?
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Meant to have better IQ across the board even using the old adapter. Will have to mull it over. I'd probably let the 55 go for £540, £80 cheaper, no messing about with cashback, brand new and UK stock.
 
Yesterday I had a newborn photoshoot, it was my first with my new a7iii, for lens I chose the 24-70 GM

I opted for using AF Single with Flexible Spot small to place the focus where I wanted it, sometimes it would be on the feet, hands, fingers, eyes....
The photoshoot started and the camera seemed to focus well with no problems, after a while it would not focus at all in the eyes area, it would hunt but it would not lock focus at all, it was very frustrating.

In the room there was enough light from my strobe modelling lights and the ambient light, I was using mechanical shutter with Live Preview Off, Eye AF off too and no Face detect, just placing the focus on the eye and it would not focus at all.

Not sure if had anything to do, but as the baby was naked we had a heater on and the studio room got quite hot.

Any ideas on what I might have been doing wrong? Or was it the camera?...I want to think it was me and not the camera:rolleyes:
 
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PauBass said:
Yesterday I had a newborn photoshoot, it was my first with my new a7iii, for lens I chose the 24-70 GM

I opted for using AF Single with Flexible Spot small to place the focus where I wanted it, sometimes it would be on the feet, hands, fingers, eyes....
The photoshoot started and the camera seemed to focus well with no problems, after a while it would not focus at all in the eyes area, it would hunt but it would not lock focus at all, it was very frustrating.

In the room there was enough light from my strobe modelling lights and the ambient light, I was using mechanical shutter with Live Preview Off, Eye AF off too and no Face detect, just placing the focus on the eye and it would not focus at all.

Not sure if had anything to do, but as the baby was naked we had a heater on and the studio room got quite hot.

Any ideas on what I might have been doing wrong? Or was it the camera?...I want to think it was me and not the camera:rolleyes:
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The camera needs to be in AF-C for the eye AF to work properly.
 
snerkler said:
Those colours are so much better. Is your screen calibrated?
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No, the screen isn't calibrated. The picture on at the seaside was taken on a different day with completely different lighting but all processed by little old me.

I do agree that some of my shots... er... being kind to myself... lack a little in the processing department... and I think especially with the ones taken of Mrs WW surrounded by greenery her skin tone doesn't always look right. There are two places we go to often that are very green so I'll be careful and maybe take a Panasonic along next time too and take a couple of pictures with the same lighting and see if they end up any different.
 
F/1.4 said:
The camera needs to be in AF-C for the eye AF to work properly.
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Thanks @F/1.4....but that's not what I was asking about.

I did not want AF-C or Eye AF, I was shooting on AF-S and flexible spot small to place the focus exactly where I wanted it, I could move it around and focus on different parts. It was when placing the focus point over the eye that it would not focus, it would hunt and hunt but it would not lock focus at all.
 
woof woof said:
No, the screen isn't calibrated. The picture on at the seaside was taken on a different day with completely different lighting but all processed by little old me.

I do agree that some of my shots... er... being kind to myself... lack a little in the processing department... and I think especially with the ones taken of Mrs WW surrounded by greenery her skin tone doesn't always look right. There are two places we go to often that are very green so I'll be careful and maybe take a Panasonic along next time too and take a couple of pictures with the same lighting and see if they end up any different.
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I'll remove if you like (no edits!), just visualisation is good.

In lightroom I just used the WB picker on the stripes on her top, nothing else. Original left, WB right.

wb by dancook1982, on Flickr
 
dancook said:
I'll remove if you like (no edits!), just visualisation is good.

In lightroom I just used the WB picker on the stripes on her top, nothing else. Original left, WB right.

wb by dancook1982, on Flickr
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Much better. Maybe a shade too far if you want it natural as I would guess in an environment like that there would be a slight green cast but for WB neutrality that's great. I never have great success with the WB eye dropper thing tbh :oops: :$
 
snerkler said:
Much better. Maybe a shade too far if you want it natural as I would guess in an environment like that there would be a slight green cast but for WB neutrality that's great. I never have great success with the WB eye dropper thing tbh :oops: :$
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I agree - I'm not keen on the 'purple' look you get with forest floor with white balancing - so usually warm it up a tad - but not so much the subject gets lost.

Could use split toning for this once you've white balanced
 
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dancook said:
I agree - I'm not keen on the 'purple' look you get with forest floor with white balancing - so usually warm it up a tad - but not so much the subject gets lost.

Could use split toning for this once you've white balanced
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Good shout (y)
 
That's one problem, the forest floor ends up too purple. One thing I'd done this morning is go for a more natural looking environment and then desaturase her face a bit.

1-DSC00123.jpg

This is another place, some problem, different lens this time...

1-DSC07952.jpg
 
snerkler said:
Much better. Maybe a shade too far if you want it natural as I would guess in an environment like that there would be a slight green cast but for WB neutrality that's great. I never have great success with the WB eye dropper thing tbh :oops: :$
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In that picture I can get wildly different results by eye dropping at different points on her grey top or her socks. I think you guys may do better but I think this sort of picture (under a green canopy) is going to be a problem for me but I don't think it's a screen calibration or lens problem, I do think it's more the environment and my lack of processing skill. I'll see if I get the same with one of my Panasonic cameras and lenses.
 
(EDIT: Whoops, just seen your images are 'do not edit.' Sorry, mate. Have removed and deleted my edit of your pic)

I shoot in that sort of situation a lot. I think your problems were mainly in temperature and saturation. When I'm editing tough lighting I start by zooming in tight on the subject and working to get the skin tone mostly right. In many situations, when you then zoom out it's perfect.
 
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decigallen said:
I shoot in that sort of situation a lot. I think your problems were mainly in temperature and saturation. When I'm editing tough lighting I start by zooming in tight on the subject and working to get the skin tone mostly right. In many situations, when you then zoom out it's perfect.

Hope you don't mind me manipulating your shots. Just a quick PS edit to eye - I could do better in LR with RAW. Some of the ground is bordering on being too magenta.
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Of course I don't mind, you're helping and I appreciate that :D

I do think the right hand shot is too purple and I do agree that the LH shot is too saturated, the slider is at zero as is vibrancy and I backed the saturation off a bit for her face. Changing the temp seems to alter the saturation or if it's not doing that it's doing something that looks like making it look more saturated. I'll have another go doing as you say, zooming in on her face and seeing what that does to the whole picture. I'll try and get to grips with this as there are two places I take a lot of pictures of her in, the hills and where the picture at post 34642 is. When she's not in the frame it's not a problem :D but when she's in the picture I often have a problem with her skin tone. She's going to Thailand for a month and will be darker when she comes back so that may give me another challenge :D
 
woof woof said:
That's one problem, the forest floor ends up too purple. One thing I'd done this morning is go for a more natural looking environment and then desaturase her face a bit.

View attachment 126306

This is another place, some problem, different lens this time...

View attachment 126307
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It looks really flat, the blacks are not there and it's a little over exposed.
 
twist said:
Agreed, @woof woof do you always ETTR? I noticed a lot of your shots look overexposed which makes them flat.
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The other side of the coin is unless he is specifically going for that look, it looks almost 60's colour film stock faded over the years.

However, in terms of neutral, that is quite far from it.
 
A few water drop collisions with Sony A7iii and the splashart ii kit. Note that in theory its not supposed to work with mirrorless cameras, and I have to admit its probably not quite as repeatable as it previous was with my Canon 5d mark iii, but not bad for 1st attempt using the kit with the A7iii.


DSC03650 by Mike Rhodes, on Flickr



DSC03685 by Mike Rhodes, on Flickr



DSC03687 by Mike Rhodes, on Flickr



DSC03808 by Mike Rhodes, on Flickr
 
mike_6480 said:
A few water drop collisions with Sony A7iii and the splashart ii kit. Note that in theory its not supposed to work with mirrorless cameras, and I have to admit its probably not quite as repeatable as it previous was with my Canon 5d mark iii, but not bad for 1st attempt using the kit with the A7iii.
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Those are great!....so sharp. Well done!
 
twist said:
Agreed, @woof woof do you always ETTR? I noticed a lot of your shots look overexposed which makes them flat.
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On my A7 - I used to always turn the exp comp dial to -0.3ev, felt like it naturally overexposed just a little. I always used to make sure I was exposing for the highlights. Shadow detail wasn’t an issue.
 
Please can I possibly ask for advice, I have ordered a Sony A7 III and a Sigma EOS to Sony E Mount. While waiting for it to, one day arrive in stock. I am trying to get advice on other makes of flash & trigger other then Sony with a pretty good guide number & reliable.
What size and make have Sd cards have you been using. Been shooting Canon so totally new to Sony and know nothing other then a few youtube reviews, thanks for all advice.
 
captainjack said:
Please can I possibly ask for advice, I have ordered a Sony A7 III and a Sigma EOS to Sony E Mount. While waiting for it to, one day arrive in stock. I am trying to get advice on other makes of flash & trigger other then Sony with a pretty good guide number & reliable.
What size and make have Sd cards have you been using. Been shooting Canon so totally new to Sony and know nothing other then a few youtube reviews, thanks for all advice.
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I use godox trigger and flash. I previously used Nissin i40 on camera flash which worked quite well too.

In use either 32GB or 64GB SD cards
 
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ohms12 said:
On my A7 - I used to always turn the exp comp dial to -0.3ev, felt like it naturally overexposed just a little. I always used to make sure I was exposing for the highlights. Shadow detail wasn’t an issue.
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My a7RIIs are permanently set to -0.3ev, it's a habit I gained shooting weddings and it feels just right to me. The files are so flexible so it's just a nice little safety net.
 
captainjack said:
Please can I possibly ask for advice, I have ordered a Sony A7 III and a Sigma EOS to Sony E Mount. While waiting for it to, one day arrive in stock. I am trying to get advice on other makes of flash & trigger other then Sony with a pretty good guide number & reliable.
What size and make have Sd cards have you been using. Been shooting Canon so totally new to Sony and know nothing other then a few youtube reviews, thanks for all advice.
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I'm using Godox TT685s and a Godox Xpro trigger. Have also got Godox Sk300ii studio flashes. The great thing is I can trigger them all wirelessly just from one trigger.
 
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