The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

I went for a Rokkor 85mm f2.

It seems ok but I've mostly been using 50mm and either 24 or 28mm.
 
Kind of a moot point I guess given the rubbish weather we've had, and the lack of time I've had to shoot the a7...but my most used lenses so far are the Zeiss Distagon 35/2.8, Konica 40/1.8, Zeiss Tessar 45/2.8 and Zeiss Planar 50/1.7.

I've just aquired a Sigma 30/2.8 DN though, which I intend to remove the baffle from and use as a walkaround lens.
 
I've been hearing quite a few people taking the baffle off and getting good results. Quite tempted to do the same as the lenses are cheap so will be interested in seeing how you do with it.
 
woof woof said:
I went for a Rokkor 85mm f2.

It seems ok but I've mostly been using 50mm and either 24 or 28mm.
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I've had an FDn 85/1.8 for some years and there's the Contax-Zeiss 85/2.8 that I picked up cheap recently, which is quite compact and amazing from wide open, but just a bit slow for some occasions.

I'll probably sell the FD 85/1.8 and keep the 1.2L for low light and shallow DoF use.
 
Why not just buy the little intervalometer smartphone app for a few quid?
 
There isn't one that works for the A7R and the triggertrap allows for much more functionality such as beam triggers, distance and sound.
 
What macro lenses are people using?

I loved my Sigma 150mm f2.8 and I'd like something like that for my A7. I have a 50mm f2.8 and quality wise I can't really fault it but something longer would be nice, maybe something from 100-150mm but there don't seem to be legacy macros in that range.

What are you guys using?
 
I'm using the 35mm with a 26mm extender. I'm tempted to see what A mount macros lenses there are though, i would also like something 100mm plus.
 
I have tubes and close up filters but I'd prefer a macro to retain infinity focus. There's an Olympus 80mm but it's f4. Ideally I'd like 100mm+ and f2.8 in either Olympus OM or Minolta Rokkor fit.

Funny how things change. When I used APS-C I thought that 50mm was way too long but a 50mm became my most used lens with MFT. If I could find a good length macro for my A7 I think I'd probably use it quite a lot as a walkabout and macro lens.
 
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FD 50mm 3.5, but while I have a bellies and tubes, macro isn't really my thing.

The FD 100mm has a fairly good rep IIRC
 
manualfocus-g said:
The kiwiFotos adapter turned up. Looks great and is boxed with instructions, a nice piece of kit. But...it turns out there was nothing wrong with my existing adapter, Canon lenses mount fine on both of them. The issues lie with the adapters I'm stacking on top of the EOS-Nex adapter i.e. M42 and Contax to EOS adapters that are loose (they don't fit the locking pin well)! Proper facepalm moment for me :rolleyes: Guess I'll just buy dedicated M42-Nex and C/Y-Nex adapters.
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You can "tighten up" the adapters

Use a very small flat head screwdriver and twist it slightly in the thin slots where it clamps the lens on


I am Also stacking adapters but that's only so I can use an M to Nex helicoid adapter with my MC 35 1.8 Rokkor HH and 50mm Summicron-R lenses

BTW this is my first FF camera and I could'nt be happier with the results
 
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DavidBrill said:
You can "tighten up" the adapters

Use a very small flat head screwdriver and twist it slightly in the thin slots where it clamps the lens on


I am Also stacking adapters but that's only so I can use an M to Nex helicoid adapter with my MC 35 1.8 Rokkor HH and 50mm Summicron-R lenses

BTW this is my first FF camera and I could'nt be happier with the results
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Hi, my adapters clamp onto the lenses perfectly, so that won't help unfortunately (unless I've misunderstood). The issue is the with the connection from the EOS lens mount to the EOS-Nex adapter. There is a pin on the Canon-EOS -> Nex adapter which fits into a hole on the Canon lens mount (or in my case Contax->EF adapter). The hole on the Contax-EF (and all my other adapters) is slightly too large. I've purchased a C/Y->Nex adapter which works perfectly however :)
 
The legacy lens does not move on the first adapter (C/Y->EOS). The lens is nice and tight to it. The issue is with the way the adapter then connects to the Canon EF mount or EF->Nex adapter. The entire adapter and lens combination is able to rotate slightly when connected to an EF camera or mount, as that connection is not tight enough.
 
DavidBrill said:
You can "tighten up" the adapters

Use a very small flat head screwdriver and twist it slightly in the thin slots where it clamps the lens on


I am Also stacking adapters but that's only so I can use an M to Nex helicoid adapter with my MC 35 1.8 Rokkor HH and 50mm Summicron-R lenses

BTW this is my first FF camera and I could'nt be happier with the results
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Could you post a picture demonstrating this? I have a problem with one lens that refuses to lock, the others (so far) fit but do take an increased effort to lock.
OTOH, I could just buy another cheapy and see if that works.
 
Will it cover the whole sensor??????

Just watched it on youtube, lots of vignetting... it's not for me. Not when you can get a 28mm f2.8 for under £30, manual focus though.
 
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True, but my wife's not keen on manual focus :D

Here's the whole image at f/4.5 (a random mid-range aperture which should provide decent sharpness and dof, but also introduce a fair amount of vignetting to deal with):

View attachment 3570

I then applied the standard Sigma 30/2.8 lens correct in Lightroom:

View attachment 3571

Next I cropped to a 35mm FoV (resulting in an 18MP image):

View attachment 3572

And applied another bout of lens correction in Photoshop:

View attachment 3574

I think a slightly tighter crop would get rid of the vignetting altogther (others suggest a 40mm fov is favourable) but this should be great for snaps and street shots :) Next step is to create some workflow in LR to do this all for me...
 
Yep, baffle off. I'm seeing this as a super sharp 35mm street lens at the moment, I'm not sure if it would suit landscapers trying to pull back detail in pp though (may uncover the vignetting again).

Here's a thread from someone else who compared it to the Zeiss FE 35/2.8:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3594558
 
Granty_ said:
Has anyone used any of the canon telehotos. maybe the 70-200 f/4 and have you had any image shake?
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I didn't get around to trying the A7R with 70-200 (only had it for a day) but you don't need a long lens to experience major shutter vibration. IMHO it's a big problem for anyone wanting to get the most from the R's sensor, an unforgiveable blunder by Sony, and is the main reason I'll not be getting one until they come up with a fix. A fairly simply firmware update should solve the problem for most users.

You've maybe seen this, and other reports http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/the-shutter-vibration-issue-explained-by-joseph-holmes/ I tried it with 1k of lead ballast and that certainly makes a big difference, but that's a crazy way forward.
 
Thanks for that, I shall have a twiddle, though I'm beginning t suspect the issue lies with the lens;it locks onto my film camera and other Konica lenses lock in without too much trouble,maybe a combination of both.
 
Questions guys, if i were to buy an A mount lens that has OSS on it will that function using either of the two Sony adapters LAE3 and 4?
 
manualfocus-g said:
True, but my wife's not keen on manual focus :D

Here's the whole image at f/4.5...
Click to expand...

That's not actually all that bad... Maybe it wouldn't be too much trouble for Sigma to produce these for FF?

One thing that I've wondered about recently is if people and manufacturers worry too much about ultimate image quality?

It's nice to have cameras and lenses capable of producing very high quality images but IMHO many of us never push our cameras to the limits apart from non real world test shots and pixel peeping. To me the differences between my cameras and lenses have often only been visible at the highest ISO settings or when looking very closely at images - or more acccurately when looking very closely at sections of the image but how often should we be looking at extreme edge performance at 300% when the faults we see will almost certainly never be visible or never truly significant in any print we'll ever produce?

I'm pretty sure I'd be happy with some compact, light and cheap lenses even if by modern standards they were only mediocre optical performers as for real world images for most people they'd be more than good enough.
 
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