Sunny 16 Rule - ISO 400

[cardiff_gareth]

Hey,
I've bought myself a Zorki 4K and want to shoot street with it but not rely on a phone app or separate light meter for exposure.

I'm using ISO 400 film, so with the sunny 16 rule, I'll be setting the shutter speed to 1/500 as that's the nearest shutter speed to my ISO but I was wondering if the aperture vs weather condition would still be the same or if they'd be out?

I'm asking as every Sunny 16 rule website or image I see is for ISO 100

Thanks

 

[Topsy]

Hey,
I've bought myself a Zorki 4K and want to shoot street with it but not rely on a phone app or separate light meter for exposure.

I'm using ISO 400 film, so with the sunny 16 rule, I'll be setting the shutter speed to 1/500 as that's the nearest shutter speed to my ISO but I was wondering if the aperture vs weather condition would still be the same or if they'd be out?

I'm asking as every Sunny 16 rule website or image I see is for ISO 100

Thanks

They'd be the same but if I were you I'd look at 250th rather than 500th if you are shooting negative film as it tends to do better with overexposure rather than underexposure.

 

[FishyFish]

It's a rough guide, so shooting at 1/500th should be fine - it's only a 1/4 stop less exposure and, while overexposing is generally better, if you're shooting street you might want the extra shutter speed..

If you're shooting in the UK, then I'd suggest changing the rule slightly to Sunny 11 (and compensating by one stop for any variation) as we don't get as much light at these latitudes as they do further south.

e.g. Sunny cloudless day when the sun is at it's brightest - 400asa film / 1/400th sec exposure (or nearest) / f/11

 

[medwaygreen]

As above.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Stand development with something like Rodinal goes well with the the Sunny 16 rule: https://mrleica.com/rodinal-stand-development/

 

[PeterSpencer]

In the UK, particularly the North West, a Sunny 11 rule seems more appropriate.

 

[cardiff_gareth]

Thanks everyone. So sunny 11 is starting at f11 and then dropping down the aperture full stops as the weather (light) drops as per the chart?

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Thanks everyone. So sunny 11 is starting at f11 and then dropping down the aperture full stops as the weather (light) drops as per the chart?

I think you'd need to try it for yourself as an end to end process: expose, develop and print.

I've always used f16 for a sunny day, working down from there and it's been good for me. 400 ISO monochrome film has a great deal of latitude so different interpretations will work for different people.

 

[FishyFish]

Thanks everyone. So sunny 11 is starting at f11 and then dropping down the aperture full stops as the weather (light) drops as per the chart?

Yes, exactly the same principle, you're just starting a stop wider with your aperture.

 

[PeterSpencer]

Also overexposing, with negative film, is better than underexposing. In the event that the light, at midday, is brighter than expected, a stop or so over won't make a huge amount of difference, actually little difference at all.

Hardest of all is when there is the wonderful condition with clouds and sunshine, the light, from an exposure point of view, is up and down all the time. I use an incident light meter and sometimes the changing light settings can be very difficult.