- Messages
- 19,271
- Name
- Gary
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Guys,
As I have indicated on various other threads I have been really pushing to get my "out of camera shots" as close to "client viewing ready" as possible, in other words, take my CF card, plug it into a sideshow player...I think I am now in that position, meaning I should only have to process "bought" photos.
I can't show you this on a human subject just yet (but I have tested), and what the toys don't show too well is the shadow fall off across the face of human subjects.
The setup is as follows.
20 INCHES IN FRONT OF BACKWALL
I have framed around the entire room, exactly 20 inches in front of the backwall, slightly wider than the large strip softboxes used in the softwall...
VELCRO has been put right the way round the frame.
A 4 metre square panel of RIP STOP NYLON has been stretched over the entire frame, making a material wall....
Behind the wall, as the image shows, I have created "lampost positioned" strip softboxes. The INTERNAL diffusers have been removed, although the FRONT diffuser on both these soft boxes remains.
Each softbox is channeling a Bowens Gemini Pro 1000watt, and both are on FULL POWER.
Key light is another Bowens Gemini Pro 1000watt, inside a Bowens Octobox 150. This is running at 60%.
Depending on the look I want, range from F9 to F11, ISO 200, 250/s flash sync.
The floor is reflective BATHROOM WALL type material...
The entire room size is 4metre x 4metre and is 100% white...
The setup
Out of camera:
Now, the background? Not 100% blown. A TINY area to the left needs sorting. It does NOT show on my PLASMA used for viewing though, and it will take 1 second for any BOUGHT PHOTOS during processing. Also, once my backdrop is crease free I can reduce the BG lights even more and go for "close to blown" for the client viewing, helping reduce any risk of hot edges. I read somewhere (a very good chicago based childrens photographer I think), that blowing the whites in camera is just lazy, and if you can go close to blown without clipping, it would greatly help control shadows and edges of your subjects. It requires a gleaming perfect backdrop with even light though.
When it comes to the BOUGHT PHOTOS, processing will be as follows (I think)...
1: Reduce the reflection and floor shadow
2: Ensure the backdrop is 255 white OR completely evenly lit and appears white (when printed)
3: Play with shadow detail etc on my subjects....
4: Crops...
5: White balance tweaks, sharpening, etc etc.
Any questions, just ask. This has taken me about 100 hours including testing etc.
Gary.
As I have indicated on various other threads I have been really pushing to get my "out of camera shots" as close to "client viewing ready" as possible, in other words, take my CF card, plug it into a sideshow player...I think I am now in that position, meaning I should only have to process "bought" photos.
I can't show you this on a human subject just yet (but I have tested), and what the toys don't show too well is the shadow fall off across the face of human subjects.
The setup is as follows.
20 INCHES IN FRONT OF BACKWALL
I have framed around the entire room, exactly 20 inches in front of the backwall, slightly wider than the large strip softboxes used in the softwall...
VELCRO has been put right the way round the frame.
A 4 metre square panel of RIP STOP NYLON has been stretched over the entire frame, making a material wall....
Behind the wall, as the image shows, I have created "lampost positioned" strip softboxes. The INTERNAL diffusers have been removed, although the FRONT diffuser on both these soft boxes remains.
Each softbox is channeling a Bowens Gemini Pro 1000watt, and both are on FULL POWER.
Key light is another Bowens Gemini Pro 1000watt, inside a Bowens Octobox 150. This is running at 60%.
Depending on the look I want, range from F9 to F11, ISO 200, 250/s flash sync.
The floor is reflective BATHROOM WALL type material...
The entire room size is 4metre x 4metre and is 100% white...
The setup
Out of camera:
Now, the background? Not 100% blown. A TINY area to the left needs sorting. It does NOT show on my PLASMA used for viewing though, and it will take 1 second for any BOUGHT PHOTOS during processing. Also, once my backdrop is crease free I can reduce the BG lights even more and go for "close to blown" for the client viewing, helping reduce any risk of hot edges. I read somewhere (a very good chicago based childrens photographer I think), that blowing the whites in camera is just lazy, and if you can go close to blown without clipping, it would greatly help control shadows and edges of your subjects. It requires a gleaming perfect backdrop with even light though.
When it comes to the BOUGHT PHOTOS, processing will be as follows (I think)...
1: Reduce the reflection and floor shadow
2: Ensure the backdrop is 255 white OR completely evenly lit and appears white (when printed)
3: Play with shadow detail etc on my subjects....
4: Crops...
5: White balance tweaks, sharpening, etc etc.
Any questions, just ask. This has taken me about 100 hours including testing etc.
Gary.
