Studio shutter speeds when shooting little uns.

Matt989 said:
Im a right breast, I was under the impression (wrongly) that it would help reduce motion blur.

It was fine when I stopped down to 1/200th, the remauning shots were all saveable!

Cheers for a great thread people!
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You mean thanks for my ignorance :)
 
Matt989 said:
OK....read this with interest.

I was shooting using 1/250th at the weekend, every shot taken at that speed suffered from a black band along the bottom of the shot.

Just figured out that there is a battery in the trigger supplied with lencarta lights!

DOH!!
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Any trigger that doesn't give you full max sync speed will be fine for a studio environment but would be a handicap anywhere with a bright ambient, eg, outdoors.
 
sorry to wake this interesting thread up but :
Garry's quote Because whatever shutter speed you select, the flash is faster than the shutter, the only function of the shutter is to be open when the flash fires. I was told this at college and I shot this yesterday f8 @ 1/125th hand held ISO 200.

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Looks flippin dangerous! :eek:
 
even at 1/1000th flash duration it can be difficult to freeze motion. I have looked at the Elinchrom Quadras for that reason - they have a very short duration.

My SS is also 1/125th - enough to blot out any ambient light. Some studio togs (in dark studios) shoot at 1/60th..... As stated the SS only really serves to blot out the ambient light. If in doubt I take a shot at f8 and 1/125th without the flash - just to make sure that there's no ambient in my exposure.
 
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HoppyUK said:
Looks flippin dangerous! :eek:
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not what it seems, sponge bat and soft ball so no damage.
They went with this one in the end but I prefer the blur.:)

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Shot on Jpeg @ f11
 
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scottthehat said:
intersting thread all. om my nikon i use 1/200th f10 as any faster the strobes fire but i get half a black screen, and my k7 wont go above 1/160th f10.
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That's the sync speed of your camera - We are all limited to some degree. But you don't henerally need to be any faster than enough to blot out the ambient liught. So that's why many use 1/125th in the studio because at f8, you need a fair bit more than just indoor lighting.

Why f10?
 
Hi Dav - I've no idea - just here for the tips - but I did like your website - liked the emphasis on fun - oh and I like the bikes and car shots too!! dc
 
EOS_JD said:
That's the sync speed of your camera - We are all limited to some degree. But you don't henerally need to be any faster than enough to blot out the ambient liught. So that's why many use 1/125th in the studio because at f8, you need a fair bit more than just indoor lighting.

Why f10?
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thanks and f10 as thats what my meter tells me.
 
scottthehat said:
thanks and f10 as thats what my meter tells me.
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Turn your lights down a little till it reads f8 as that is usually one of the sharpest apertures of most lenses. One of the reasons many use f8.
 
I use a simple and cheap 18-70mm for my studio work, that is happiest at f/9 so that's where I set my lights up for and it gives a useful DoF, unless the ambient is really bright when I go out to f/11 with no real noticable loss in sharpness but by f/16 you can just about see things are not so razor sharp. As Gary said way back in the thread set everything up then turn off your radio trigger and take a shot... if it's black great, if not close the aperture a third of a stop and wind up your lighting by a third of a stop and try again. BTW I set my shutter at 1/160th to be sure not to exceed the radio trigger sync
 
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