Starter Continuous Lighting Set Up

[mattnaishoufc]

Hello all

I've recently bought a second hand Lastolite Cubelite 90cm light tent kit to do some simple product/macro setups but on inspection of the lamp that comes with the kit (that has been supplied with a Phillips 500w bulb).

I've noticed that the light temperature omitted from the lamp/bulb is quite a long way from 5000k/daylight and appears "cheap" so I'd like to explore improving the equipment.

Will changing the bulb achieve a better quality of light?

If so, which bulb should I buy?

Are Fluorescent bulbs compatible with the lamp supplied?

Secondly, I want to explore the possibility of using the same lamp as part of a continuous lighting studio set up for portrait work. Can anybody suggest a good quality starter set to accompany/replace my existing lamp? Something like the Lastolite RayD8 c5600 kit?

Your wisdom is much-appreciated!

 

[Flightphoto]

Are you shooting in Raw? If you're shooting using a tent etc then you can change the WB once you've loaded the photos onto your PC. Say for instance, you have a day where the sky is blue, if you use Auto it will be milky but yet if you change the WB to tungsten it will add a blue hue to counteract that problem if that makes sense. If your current bulb appears too warm then it's a simple case of some adjustments using software like Lightroom or similar.

Find out what fitment the lamp is i.e. E27 and then try ebay for some high wattage bulbs with your preference to colour temps. Have you not thought about purchasing some flash heads? The colour will be exactly what you're looking for and in the long run it will be an investment etc!

 

[HoppyUK]

Hello all

I've recently bought a second hand Lastolite Cubelite 90cm light tent kit to do some simple product/macro setups but on inspection of the lamp that comes with the kit (that has been supplied with a Phillips 500w bulb).

I've noticed that the light temperature omitted from the lamp/bulb is quite a long way from 5000k/daylight and appears "cheap" so I'd like to explore improving the equipment.

Will changing the bulb achieve a better quality of light?

If so, which bulb should I buy?

Are Fluorescent bulbs compatible with the lamp supplied?

Secondly, I want to explore the possibility of using the same lamp as part of a continuous lighting studio set up for portrait work. Can anybody suggest a good quality starter set to accompany/replace my existing lamp? Something like the Lastolite RayD8 c5600 kit?

Your wisdom is much-appreciated!

Your lights are tungsten, and their natural colour is yellow/orange. Just set your camera's white balanced to tungsten.

But I wouldn't use them, incredibly hot and not very bright. I once set my late dad's Anglepoise on fire with one of those bulbs - not sure how they pass health & safety these days.

Even the brightest fluorescent lights are marginal for portraiture. You need flash, far better all round. Look at Elinchrom and Lencarta.

 

[Steve T]

Hi Matt, if you just want to light imobile objects and product, these are the best CRI rated compact flourescent bulbs I have found
http://www.androv-medical.com/product/119/23-watt-bayonet-full-spectrum-daylight-bulb
For accurate colour they are pretty good and with a few simple reflectors like mirror or white card you can do loads. Just make sure that they are the only light source in the room. Also, pull the curtains, daylight on bright but cloudy days will drive you mad if colour accuarcy is important

 

[mattnaishoufc]

Hi all

Thanks for all the help!

I do shoot in RAW and I can quite easily change the WB in post-production as you suggest but I'm keen to try and produce the desired results in the studio as much as possible.

Am I right in assuming, them, that you have a far higher level of light control using flash head units?

I must admit I've already noticed the searing heat from the continuous lamp!

Is it possible to achieve good low-key lighting results with flash heads? What should I spend on a decent entry-to-mid range flash head set?

Thanks!

 

[HoppyUK]

Hi all

Thanks for all the help!

I do shoot in RAW and I can quite easily change the WB in post-production as you suggest but I'm keen to try and produce the desired results in the studio as much as possible.

Am I right in assuming, them, that you have a far higher level of light control using flash head units?

I must admit I've already noticed the searing heat from the continuous lamp!

Is it possible to achieve good low-key lighting results with flash heads? What should I spend on a decent entry-to-mid range flash head set?

Thanks!

Of course it is Entry level studio flash costs from £200-400, to as high as you like. The key to good studio lighting is the modifiers, softboxes etc, and most importantly, how you use them.