Sports photography tottaly bewhildered

ScotlandTheScare said:
I do some mountain biking photography. I spent a weekend with Seb Rogers and he taught me a whole lot about it.
Shoot in manual. If the rider is going to be close to the camera you can use fill in flash. Pop up the flash and then under-expose by 2/3ds of a stop. That should help balance out the image. That way you should be able to freeze the action (use a shutter speed of 1/100th or above - below this it can get a bit blurry). Also - follow the rider keep him in the correct position in the frame and move your camera to keep him in that position - then at the opportune moment - take the photo. If the rider is far away, then flash wont be much good - you've got to pan with the rider. Shutter speeds of 1/60th will be difficult - keep it higher than that. But you really dont need a super high shutter speed - honest.

A key part of getting a shot is to get the rider to look like he or she is riding fast, but for them to be going quite slow and steady - that way you are more likely to be able to pan and to get the timing right.
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When you follow someone on camera wouldnt they end up out of focus ? And can someone explain what you mean by pan the rider
 
cammiedh13 said:
When you follow someone on camera wouldnt they end up out of focus ? And can someone explain what you mean by pan the rider
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Panning is a technique used to follow the rider/car/bike/etc on its given path. In other words, you focus on the rider when they are heading towards the spot you actually want to take th epicture, usually holding the shutter half depressed so the camera continually adjusts the autofocus [or, having already prefocused manually on a given spot where you expect the rider to be at some point]. Press the shutter button fully a fracton before the rider hits the given spot and despite the viewfinder going black, continue to 'follow through' [as it were] until after the exposure has finished and beyond - if you get it right, the rider should still be in the viewfinder when the mirror drops and reeals the scene again. This results is blurry, speedy back grounds but the subject in focus and sharp. It takes some pratice, starting with higher shutter speeds and then lowering them as you get more profiicient with your panning technique. Do a forum search for a thread called 'how low can you go' for plenty of examples of racing cars shot at shutter speeds you would never believe possible. Its all about technique and lots of practice ;)
 
I'm going to Ibrox Stadium to watch Rangers v AC Milan next month. What chance will I have in getting good sharp shots with a D40 and 70-300VR lens?

It will be a night and the stadium is well lit?

Should I bother taking my kit?

Thanks
 
Scotty B said:
Should I bother taking my kit?
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chances are the stewards will either not let you in or throw you out. you might get away with it but hardly worth the risk... you definatly not allowed to take it in thats for sure
 
speak to ibrox first about taking your equipment in
 
Scotty B said:
I'm going to Ibrox Stadium to watch Rangers v AC Milan next month. What chance will I have in getting good sharp shots with a D40 and 70-300VR lens?
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I don't think you'll stand an earthly of getting useable pictures of the match - and that's before the stewards step in. Depending on your confidence though I'd strap a standard lens to the front of the D40 and see if you can get anything fun of the crowd.
 
Scotty B said:
LOL

Is this the truth or are you upset about yesterday? :thinking:
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Not upset about anything - know even know what you think I might be upset about. Truth - plain and simple - from a spectators viewpoint with a 300mm you are not going to get anything worth keeping - just go and enjoy the game.:)
 
Scotty B said:
I'm going to Ibrox Stadium to watch Rangers v AC Milan next month. What chance will I have in getting good sharp shots with a D40 and 70-300VR lens?

It will be a night and the stadium is well lit?

Should I bother taking my kit?

Thanks
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Most definitely I took the following at Molineux last April with a 350D and 70-210 f4 and my guess is that the Rangers lights will be better than those at the Wolves

http://oldwulfrunians.fotopic.net/c1509975.html
 
ScotlandTheScare said:
I do some mountain biking photography. I spent a weekend with Seb Rogers and he taught me a whole lot about it.
Shoot in manual. If the rider is going to be close to the camera you can use fill in flash. Pop up the flash and then under-expose by 2/3ds of a stop. That should help balance out the image. That way you should be able to freeze the action (use a shutter speed of 1/100th or above - below this it can get a bit blurry). Also - follow the rider keep him in the correct position in the frame and move your camera to keep him in that position - then at the opportune moment - take the photo. If the rider is far away, then flash wont be much good - you've got to pan with the rider. Shutter speeds of 1/60th will be difficult - keep it higher than that. But you really dont need a super high shutter speed - honest.

A key part of getting a shot is to get the rider to look like he or she is riding fast, but for them to be going quite slow and steady - that way you are more likely to be able to pan and to get the timing right.
Click to expand...

Having shot a fair bit of cycling - road and mountain bike, I can completely agree with everything you have said. Would definitely recommend using off-camera flash and a transmitter, though. Slower shutter speeds, setting the right flash power and following the rider in motion are key.
 
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