Do you need fast lenses to ensure the "split" doesnt blank out, as they used to in film days if you had a slow lens (usually a telephoto of course).I've got several split prism screens for my Canon 1srs bodies and it's less than a minute to swap them. Good for macro and my Zeiss manual focus lenses. Early non-1srs bodies often required shims to calibrate the screen to the sensor and swapping has become more complex in the later non-1srs bodies.
With a DSLR, yes, even more-so than with manual focus film bodies... that's because a portion of the light is sent to the PDAF module in the bottom of the camera, and not to the viewfinder screen.Do you need fast lenses to ensure the "split" doesnt blank out, as they used to in film days if you had a slow lens (usually a telephoto of course).
The Zeiss lenses that I use are typically f/1.4-f/2 and are very much usable with the prism but I revert to Liveview for slower lenses.Do you need fast lenses to ensure the "split" doesnt blank out, as they used to in film days if you had a slow lens (usually a telephoto of course).
The transmissive mirror in AF SLR/DSLR's typically sends only 60% of the light through the focusing screen and the other 40% passes through to the sub-mirror and on to the AF sensors.With a DSLR, yes, even more-so than with manual focus film bodies... that's because a portion of the light is sent to the PDAF module in the bottom of the camera, and not to the viewfinder screen.
And each side of the split prism is only using 1/2 of the light as it converges to form a focused image (2 separate virtual images)... so maybe 30% each...The transmissive mirror in AF SLR/DSLR's typically sends only 60% of the light through the focusing screen and the other 40% passes through to the sub-mirror and on to the AF sensors.
And each side of the split prism is only using 1/2 of the light as it converges to form a focused image (2 separate virtual images)... so maybe 30% each...