Specs for manual focusing

Peter B

Peter B

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I currently wear varifocals and am happy with them for everyday use, but I'm having difficulty getting camera focus bang on recently. I've had another look at some of the comments on a varifocal search on the site, but I'm not clear which single vision specs I should choose for manually focusing cameras. While I do quite a bit with film cameras, I'm also looking to use manual focus lenses on my Fuji X-T2, so it's an ongoing issue for me. I'm getting my eyes tested on Friday, so could be tempted to a spare pair with single vision lenses if I knew what to ask for? Thanks!
 
Not sure it's a help, I take my glasses off to use the camera and rely on the dioptre adjustment to make sure I can see the info on screen.
 
Try the super cheap glasses they have in places like Home Bargains. Worked for me.
 
Steep said:
Not sure it's a help, I take my glasses off to use the camera and rely on the dioptre adjustment to make sure I can see the info on screen.
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Thanks Hugh, but most of the cameras don't have dioptre adjustment built in.
simon ess said:
Try the super cheap glasses they have in places like Home Bargains. Worked for me.
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Is that the cheapo reading glasses Simon? I've got quite strong ones for tying knots when fishing, but I'm not sure how you would pick a strength for focusing cameras?
 
I have a single vision pair for using my pc.
My Vafifocals are for reading and distance, not intermediate which is where the computer falls
 
Peter B said:
I currently wear varifocals and am happy with them for everyday use, but I'm having difficulty getting camera focus bang on recently. I've had another look at some of the comments on a varifocal search on the site, but I'm not clear which single vision specs I should choose for manually focusing cameras. While I do quite a bit with film cameras, I'm also looking to use manual focus lenses on my Fuji X-T2, so it's an ongoing issue for me. I'm getting my eyes tested on Friday, so could be tempted to a spare pair with single vision lenses if I knew what to ask for? Thanks!
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I started to use varifocals late last year, but when I take a shot I take them off or use the LCD screen on my Fuji X cameras.
 
Steep said:
Not sure it's a help, I take my glasses off to use the camera and rely on the dioptre adjustment to make sure I can see the info on screen.
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Me too
 
Steep said:
Not sure it's a help, I take my glasses off to use the camera and rely on the dioptre adjustment to make sure I can see the info on screen.
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I used to do this but I have a tendency to put them down somewhere and then forget about them and wander a few more yards to take the next shot. Took me ages to find them again at Aira Force last year.
 
Cloudforest said:
I used to do this but I have a tendency to put them down somewhere and then forget about them and wander a few more yards to take the next shot. Took me ages to find them again at Aira Force last year.
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I broke two pairs of glasses last year doing just that, I spent £4 on a neck cord and fixed that problem :)
 
At one time you could get frames where you could flip one lens up.
Primarily for rifle shooting when used with a sight that had a diopter similar to a viewfinder
 
Peter B said:
I currently wear varifocals and am happy with them for everyday use, but I'm having difficulty getting camera focus bang on recently. I've had another look at some of the comments on a varifocal search on the site, but I'm not clear which single vision specs I should choose for manually focusing cameras. While I do quite a bit with film cameras, I'm also looking to use manual focus lenses on my Fuji X-T2, so it's an ongoing issue for me. I'm getting my eyes tested on Friday, so could be tempted to a spare pair with single vision lenses if I knew what to ask for? Thanks!
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I have the same problem :( In your camera manual you should (with a bit of luck) find the focussing distance for the viewfinder and your optician should be able to get you a pair of single focal length glasses to suit.

Specsavers did this for me and also another pair for use when editing on the computer. Hope that helps :)
 
Been to the optician today for an eye test and he reckons I need +2.00 for reading specs. I see Poundland have readers for £1, so I'll pop in and buy a pair to see how I get on with them. I'm happy to pay more for better quality, but it's a cheap way to get the right strength first. Thanks all. (y)
 
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I've got readers dotted around all over the place - cheapies from Poundland, Tiger (?Danish cheap crap shop) etc.. TBH, they're no worse than "proper" ones from an optician (well, the 75p ones from Tiger aren't quite that good but they're fine for reading instructions!) although they might not have the same coatings.
 
Peter B said:
Been to the optician today for an eye test and he reckons I need +2.00 for reading specs. I see Poundland have readers for £1, so I'll pop in and buy a pair to see how I get on with them. I'm happy to pay more for better quality, but it's a cheap way to get the right strength first. Thanks all. (y)
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That'll be +2.00 in addition to your distance prescription.
 
Graham W said:
That'll be +2.00 in addition to your distance prescription.
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Now then, I specifically asked him what strength of readers I would need, so I'm taking the +2.00 as being his recommendation. :thinking: It might even depend on whether I'm looking at a waist level finder and then flipping up the magnifier in the finder for a closer look, so that's why I'm hedging my bets by going to Poundland for £1 specs. I can try 2 or 3 different strengths and still have change out of a fiver, plus I'm guessing that I might even need different strengths for different cameras?
 
If you want to try your prescription glasses with +2 without breaking the bank try either Zenni Optical or Goggles4u on t'net. I always buy my glasses from one or the other of them and have just ordered a pair with +1 for £10.50 delivered.
 
Peter B said:
Now then, I specifically asked him what strength of readers I would need, so I'm taking the +2.00 as being his recommendation. :thinking: It might even depend on whether I'm looking at a waist level finder and then flipping up the magnifier in the finder for a closer look, so that's why I'm hedging my bets by going to Poundland for £1 specs. I can try 2 or 3 different strengths and still have change out of a fiver, plus I'm guessing that I might even need different strengths for different cameras?
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Depends how it's written on your prescription. Usually it will be:- Sph---Cyl---Axis For your main (Distance) prescription then Add which will always be a positive (+) number.
If this is how it is written then the Add power must be combined with the main power to give the final close (Reading) prescription.
 
Peter B said:
Now then, I specifically asked him what strength of readers I would need, so I'm taking the +2.00 as being his recommendation. :thinking: It might even depend on whether I'm looking at a waist level finder and then flipping up the magnifier in the finder for a closer look, so that's why I'm hedging my bets by going to Poundland for £1 specs. I can try 2 or 3 different strengths and still have change out of a fiver, plus I'm guessing that I might even need different strengths for different cameras?
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If I was replying to a patient who asked what strength they needed I'd tell them the actual power not the add power, which is what Graham is describing. If you want to, post a photo of your prescription here and I can clarify. :)
 
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