Some PP Advice Please

mattchewone

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Name
Matt
Edit My Images
Yes
I did some shots a while ago for my instructor and had a distracting background and all sorts and I managed to clean it up and get this result which we are both happy with:

1.
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But I was asked to do some more for him and his close friend and grandmaster, I used a curtain in the school for the backdrop as I don't have anything big enough and with them jumping in and out, it would of made it difficult.
So I am wanting to know or get some advice on how I can edit these to create a more professional feel to add them to the website and to flyers. Ideally I think they are after a black background which I think would work on a few but the jumping ones I think would make it feel like the subject is floating in mid air and not give them any realism (if thats the right way to put it).

Here are a few shots from tonight so any advice is hugely appreciated, I'm still learning and this is something I really need to get to grips with!

2. - So gutted I cut my instructors foot off!
IMG_9901.jpg


3. - Again, cut foot off, but still the technique of the grandmaster is what is being displayed
IMG_9910.jpg


4.
IMG_9932.jpg


5. - FEET!
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6.
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Many Many Thanks in advance!
Matt
 
I know its a bit of a cheeky question to ask but any advice?

Also how can I get them sharper and more professional looking as they don't look like shots with studio lights or even anything more than a compact camera!
 
I'd start by boosting your shutter speed - 1/750th or higher is needed to freeze that sort of action. The two I've looked at were shot at 1/200th and 1/160th, which is too slow for this. Push your ISO up to 800 or more if needs be - a 40D can take it! Then drop the aperture to about f/4.5. If you shoot side on, dof won't be a problem. This will blur the background a bit. If you can get them further away from the curtain, that would be a good thing. Then, I'd try shooting from a low angle - get a few lying down, even. And If you have a tall ladder about your person, get some from the top of that as well.
 
Maybe ask in the sports section and put a link to this post asking for advice on shooting technique. I would have thought 1/200 and under was too slow and a larger aperture would help focus on the subjects. Also, crouch down rather than stand for the shots.

As for editing these, it might be quicker to reshoot.


Ah, there you go :D
 
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Definately need to up your shutter speed, play around with your iso, if you could shoot from a ladder or above at all that would help with the composition i think and be a nice perspective on the holds etc.
 
Thanks guys! I do need to re-shoot I think, but id like to be able to save a few, don't want to feel like I've completely wasted everyone's time.
Will studio flashes sync that fast? I think I'll need a wireless trigger as at the minute I'm using a flash to trigger as my wireless trigger isn't working.

Do you think a high key or low key shot would work best for this style of shot? I might have a go at both, I think I'll try to cut them out and see what I can do just to use for small leaflets until I can get a better go at it again.
 
Thanks guys! I do need to re-shoot I think, but id like to be able to save a few, don't want to feel like I've completely wasted everyone's time.
Will studio flashes sync that fast? I think I'll need a wireless trigger as at the minute I'm using a flash to trigger as my wireless trigger isn't working.

Do you think a high key or low key shot would work best for this style of shot? I might have a go at both, I think I'll try to cut them out and see what I can do just to use for small leaflets until I can get a better go at it again.

The flashes will sync just fine. The shutter speed doesn't have to be so fast if you are using flash.

The flash duration, that is to say the length of time the flash of light lasts, is far shorter than the time the shutter is open. This means that if you're set up right, your first curtain will open, the flash will fire, and then the second curtain will close. If you use higher shutter speeds with studio flash I think you'll chop some of the frame off with the shutter.

For example, if the flash duration is 1/1000 th second, and your shutter set at 1/200 second, your shutter could open, the flash could fire, and you still have 1/160 sec before the shutter closes. Provided there's not enough ambient light, that extra time will not register on the exposure.

its worth noting that you should have your subjects away from the background for low key, so that the flash brightness falls away and doesn't illuminate it.
 
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