So one final time please lads!

jemdna

Suspended / Banned
Messages
856
Name
Bryan
Edit My Images
Yes
Hey everyone

Looking to develop and scan my own negatives at home - I know we covered it before but this time I need to be definitive, unusually the missus has given her approval :thumbs::thumbs::naughty:

So take it from a complete beginner, never done it in my life (well did in school but them days were some what.. "Hazy" :thinking:

Links to products and hey, lets be honest, how difficult is it really?

Bry
 
I'll keep an eye on this :) I want to develop my own b&w 120 film and scan it
 
Be careful Danny, I seem to be able to create riots in my threads recently :lol: (Personally I blame Woodsy)

Bry
 
Lol....dont....my poor attempt of humour tends to ruin threads all on its own. So I apologise in advance lol

Dan
 
Bryan, if you can read a list of instructions and pour water from a kettle into a mug, you can pretty much process black and white film.

It's been said over and over by me, but the single best thing I've been recommended on here was the fantastic ilford guide to processing your own B&W film.

Really, it IS as simple as following that list of instructions.

For Black and White, as a starter kit of chemicals, I'd go for these...

Developer - Ilfosol 3 (keeps fairly well, easy to mix liquid dev.)
Stop Bath - Ilfostop
Fix - Ilford Rapid Fix
Wetting Agent - Ilfotol (only needed if you live in a very hard water area - i'd try without first and only get some if you have problems with drying marks on the neg's)

The Developer is a "one shot" - mix it, use it, throw it away, the fix and stop are re-useable and last for yonks. Make up a litre at a time and store it in 1L plastic milk bottles, clearly labeled of course.

All chemicals are from same ebay source... I've used the guy, and he's happy to combine postage - all 4 would normally come in at the single £5.50 - wet chemicals theoretically need to be sent via a courier rather than parcel-post. You may be able to source somewhere cheaper, but ebay was a nice easy place to get pictures and descriptions :lol:

As to hardware, well it's really down to

Processing Tank - Patterson Universal is a good one - can take 2x35mm (with additional spiral) or 120/620 film
Measuring Cylinders - a smaller grad for measuring the chemicals and a larger one for the overall volume of liquid are handy, say a 45mm and a 300ml plus 4 or 5 1 litre plastic measuring jugs from asda at 50p each.
Thermometer - processing is pretty temperature sensitive, and a thermometer is a good idea from a point of view of consistency.
Changing Bag - unless you've already got a completely blacked out room, a changing bag is a good idea for loading film into the developing tank. Can't recommend any specific one of those - but my recomendation is to get a big one - especially if you've larger hands, and preferably not made of nylon (as they get full of static, and end up charging the film so it holds every bit of dust in the entire room!)
Negative Sleeves - yep - you'll need something to put the film in after it's processed, otherwise it'll start attracting dust again. Dust will be the bane of your life when you start scanning film, so be prepared.

the rest of the kit list from the ilford howto, you'll probably have lying around the house, or be able to pick up on the highstreet/improvise somehow.
 
:agree:

It's really simple and provided you read and follow the Ilford instructions you should be fine. I would suggest you sacrifice a roll of film to practice loading in daylight as you don't want to be worrying about messing it up with actual pictures, you'll just get annoyed
 
Not hard at all :)
Be consistent, it helps track down when anything doesn't turn out as you thought. B+W chemistry is more forgiving of temperature variations than colour but don't let that get you into bad habits.
I scan on an Epson 4490, which will do up to a single frame of 120 film at 6x12cm or course, 2 at 6x6cm. 2 x5 frames of 35mm, too. I use VueScan. Partly cos the Epson software is OK. VueScan is better than OK. The other reason is Linux.
A scanned medium format neg at 4800 dpi is a huge file, if you set the output to uncompressed formats like tiff! Not great for editing (the inevitable dust removal) on a less well-specced machine.
 
Wow brilliant information, hopefully picking up an RB67 today so ill put it to good use very soon!

I approached a photographer recently to get some info on a shot of his I loved, he'd shot on mf film, he said he exposed for shadows (which I get) but developed for highlights. Can you guys enlighten me on this?
 
Basically, over-expose and under develop.

The contrast in a negative is deteremined by the exposure and development.

Increased development has a pronounced effect on the highlights but very little effect on the shadows.

To increase shadow detail exposure has to be increased BUT development must be reduced. This is usually achieved by reducing the development time. Basically, start with the recommended time for a given film/developer combination, and reduce the dev. time by maybe 5-10% each time, until you get a setup that suits you.
 
Last edited:
0o0o0oh should be ordering in the next week or 2... just got to make a dent in a couple of these custom guitars for people + finish my motorbike and voila :)

Bry
 
Brilliant, thanks so much for the detailed explanation :)

Now to put it all into practice
 
...
I approached a photographer recently to get some info on a shot of his I loved, he'd shot on mf film, he said he exposed for shadows (which I get) but developed for highlights. Can you guys enlighten me on this?

It means metering for the low shadow values placing the important ones in the zones above accent black and expanding or contracting your highlights by over or under developing the film. You only need to do that when there is more light than can be recored on the film (a contraction) or when the light range is low (flat) and you want to make the "white values" whiter (an expansion).

You really need a one-degree spot meter to exercise this technique with certainty. Average metering of a broad light source may not tell you what zone your shadows are relative to the highlights very well. And with a one-degree spot meter you'll know what areas of the scene will fall to accent black or white relative the the middle gray exposure you selected or not.

And to know how much to under develop or over develop your film means conducting tests and measuring your negative densities with a densitometer but you can generally practice the technique without a densitometer and get a feel by trial and error and the many general rules without diving deep into the zone system of developing.
 
...I have so much to learn. Thanks kindly for that information, I'm gonna have to re-read it afew times lol
 
I'm loving my ID-11 developer, I use it at stock concentration and it's done 6 rolls now and works really well. Might have to start lengthening my dev times a little from now on ir mix up some new stock...
 
I'm loving my ID-11 developer, I use it at stock concentration and it's done 6 rolls now and works really well. Might have to start lengthening my dev times a little from now on ir mix up some new stock...

Same developer as I use, must say had no problems with it really.
 
i'm not going to link because i don't have that kinda time ;) but kodak d-76 developer, cheap and never fails, and ilford fixer, both fairly cheap, then if you have a windows xp or lower computer at home pick up a minolta dual scan, cheap but good. then ilford film such as delta and HP5 has the developing times on the inside of the film packaging.
 
Back
Top