scottthehat
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manual all the time for me(well kinda) the d300 selects the iso, except when in the studio then its me
shutter, aperture priority or manual?
- Thread starter scaryrob
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Well I've never really seen the point of TV (Outside of some flash applications).
What's the point in setting a minimum shutter speed if you don't know it can be maintained in the changing light? The last thing I need is to be focused on some feathered rarity and the camera to select the max aperture - but be unable to maintain the chosen shutter speed in the ambient light and start flashing away at me that the exposure isn't possible. While I'm buggering about the bird is in the next county. I suppose it makes a bit more sense with auto ISO being available on some camaras now though, but I find AV is really all I need in most situations.
rogermbyrne
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I've been an Aperture guy up until now unless shooting with off camera flash then I use manual.
What I have noticed though as I want to squeeze out a bit more shutter speed that Manual with give you a little bit extra than Aperture.
eg. Same subject same conditions
Correct exposure in Manual at f4 will give me 1/200th but in Aperture mode the camera will pick 1/160th
Is this normal that Aperture priority will step down the shutter speed slightly?
What I have noticed though as I want to squeeze out a bit more shutter speed that Manual with give you a little bit extra than Aperture.
eg. Same subject same conditions
Correct exposure in Manual at f4 will give me 1/200th but in Aperture mode the camera will pick 1/160th
Is this normal that Aperture priority will step down the shutter speed slightly?
Phiggys
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Aperture priority + expo comp +/- that way your always in control of your DOF and your shutter is firing at it's optimum speed.
Wide aperture fast speed small aperture slow speed and increased DOF.
only use manual in the studio or extremely difficult lighting situation where I might also use spot metering instead of my usual CW meter mode.
Wide aperture fast speed small aperture slow speed and increased DOF.
only use manual in the studio or extremely difficult lighting situation where I might also use spot metering instead of my usual CW meter mode.
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Asuming you're framing your subject the same in each shot and that the metering pattern is the same in both modes, there shouldn't be any difference in meter readings Roger, but the actual difference between 1/160th and 1/200th is pretty negligible.
Phiggys
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Shutter speeds are step-less in aperture priority ie it only reads out to the nearest 1/3rd stop but check your meta data 1/196 or even 1/157th ?
that's my main reason for always using aperture priority it will always maintain the max shutter speed for any given aperture and iso setting
littlemonster
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I shoot in manual always - but as standard I have it on Auto ISO with a maximum set up to ISO800 - that was if the light changes it can change without me having to, but max set so it doesn't shoot up to something ridiculous because of a small dark area (that was after having a 3200 ISO shot due to a momentary change of light). So I guess not full manual.
For birds this means I can set the appropriate shutter speed and aperture and mostly not need to change anything during shooting. Same with anything I need to be quick for, or if I'm taking more snapshots as I walk around and don't want to be spending half the time adjusting settings - it's just a quick scroll if I need to raise shutter speed.
For things like landscapes I tend to take it off auto-ISO and just change it as needed.
WB I tend to lazily set as auto as I find 95% of the time the camera gets it right - whereas if I set it to say daylight it can chnage quite quickly and be slightly off. The other 5% are generally just 1 slider in the camera raw part of PS (I find auto tends to overcook it a bit!), takes 5 seconds per photo.
For birds this means I can set the appropriate shutter speed and aperture and mostly not need to change anything during shooting. Same with anything I need to be quick for, or if I'm taking more snapshots as I walk around and don't want to be spending half the time adjusting settings - it's just a quick scroll if I need to raise shutter speed.
For things like landscapes I tend to take it off auto-ISO and just change it as needed.
WB I tend to lazily set as auto as I find 95% of the time the camera gets it right - whereas if I set it to say daylight it can chnage quite quickly and be slightly off. The other 5% are generally just 1 slider in the camera raw part of PS (I find auto tends to overcook it a bit!), takes 5 seconds per photo.
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I'm another P mode user. Lazy, I know BUT it gives me a baseline from which to work, as soon as the switch turns the camera on. If I want a larger or smaller aperture or a faster or slower shutter speed, a quick twiddle of the control wheel and there's the setting I want. Dab the +/- button and click the wheel again and there's the exposure compensation if I need/want it.
Of course, sometimes I'll want a specific shutter speed as soon as I turn the camera on, so S mode gets selected. Ditto specific apertures (although I tend to have more time in that instance, so P mode will still do) and even M gets a look in from time to time.
Of course, sometimes I'll want a specific shutter speed as soon as I turn the camera on, so S mode gets selected. Ditto specific apertures (although I tend to have more time in that instance, so P mode will still do) and even M gets a look in from time to time.