Show us yer film shots then!

2 of my favourites from a recent trip to Cornwall. Colour to come.... eventually :/ - Thinking about it, I still need to post the one colour frame I took on the last London film meet!


Hollywell Bay, Cornwall by Jonathan Woods Photography, on Flickr


Godrevy Lighthouse, Cornwall by Jonathan Woods Photography, on Flickr

Lovely landscapes, very strong composition and well placed image elements, great skies and scenery that draws you into the image, can't choose a favourite, both are lovely!
 
Some nice work from the old budget OM, certainly looks like it was worthwile resurrecting it. Of all your shots I think the last one is the strongest, although all are well constructed.

Thanks Adrian. Hoping to find more worthy subjects in the very near future. I appreciate your comments.
 
Nick a cracking set of shots, I really like them all but the lines rae very strong in the first two. The anchor one is particularly good. Nice range of tones you are achieving with your film and dev combination. The 'Slim Devil' liiks like a pretty capable camera in the right hands:)

Thanks again Adrian. I'm using the little plastic devil a lot more now. It's so pocketable and now we are getting more and more bright days I think it should be able to handle some slower colour film too.
 

Love this. Really good!

-

Hello guys, I haven't posted here before. My name is Erik and I shoot on a Fuji GF670. Mostly C41. Doing my own development at home on a Jobo CPE-2 Plus. I really like the output I'm getting. My university has Imacon scanners (X1 and X5) and printing from 3200 dpi scans I get glorious A1 prints.

I have been shooting a lot of trolleys on Ektar 100 recently. Scans on a V600.


Scan-130320-0012_1024.jpg


Scan-130320-0014_1024.jpg


Scan-130306-0014-2_1024.jpg
 
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Many thanks guys :)

The exposure on the Godrevy Lighthouse shot was 50s. I used a yellow filter (adding 2/3 stop to the shot) and something like F/32. 1 stop of reciprocity correction also had to be added. Would have been more if I were not using Acros - a truly amazing film for reciprocity! Metered at film marked speed of 100. I took the meter readings from spots of the shadow below the lighthouse and the highlight on the lighthouse itself.

No grads or solid ND's were used.

I see that you added 1 stop for reciprocity failure. Fuji's data sheet for this film says that there is no reciprocity failure out to two minutes exposure time, and recommends a one-half stop correction for times beyond two minutes.

I have managed to pick up a box of acros 100 to use for pinhole shots and would be interested to know what reciprocity correction that you normally use.

Two great shots by the way.
 
I don't follow the Fuji data sheet, I add one stop on anything over 2 minutes, mainly because my cameras shutter only does full stops and I don't want to mess with the aperture I've chosen.
(I think Woodsys is the same regarding the shutter)
 
Thank you Adrian, very kind. I am always amazed with the DOF from tilting. It was more of a test really for home developing, and am glad it came out o.k. so am looking to crack on and get half decent at home developing, as I can see it will be addictive.

Also some superb shots in this thread!
 
Hello guys, I haven't posted here before. My name is Erik and I shoot on a Fuji GF670. Mostly C41. Doing my own development at home on a Jobo CPE-2 Plus. I really like the output I'm getting. My university has Imacon scanners (X1 and X5) and printing from 3200 dpi scans I get glorious A1 prints.

I have been shooting a lot of trolleys on Ektar 100 recently. Scans on a V600.

I rather love these!
 
Lovely landscapes, very strong composition and well placed image elements, great skies and scenery that draws you into the image, can't choose a favourite, both are lovely!

Many thanks for the kind words chap!

I see that you added 1 stop for reciprocity failure. Fuji's data sheet for this film says that there is no reciprocity failure out to two minutes exposure time, and recommends a one-half stop correction for times beyond two minutes.

I have managed to pick up a box of acros 100 to use for pinhole shots and would be interested to know what reciprocity correction that you normally use.

Two great shots by the way.

Personally, I don't really trust a datasheet that lists reciprocity correction as a sentence. If however it showed the information as a graph whereby I could calculate my own exposure correction, I'd have used perhaps something slightly below what I actually added.

That said, I wasn't just accounting for the reciprocity of the film, I was also accounting for the change in ambient light over the course of the exposure (as it was getting dark quite rapidly), and trying to predict the overall exposure of the clouds as they moved across the frame. Acros has a good enough latitude such that 1 stop over in normal conditions would be fine, so the combination of not trusting the datasheet, the exposure latitude and the fading light meant 1 stop would be fine. Entirely depends on the circumstances tbh :) Does all that kinda make sense?
 
Many thanks for the kind words chap!



Personally, I don't really trust a datasheet that lists reciprocity correction as a sentence. If however it showed the information as a graph whereby I could calculate my own exposure correction, I'd have used perhaps something slightly below what I actually added.

That said, I wasn't just accounting for the reciprocity of the film, I was also accounting for the change in ambient light over the course of the exposure (as it was getting dark quite rapidly), and trying to predict the overall exposure of the clouds as they moved across the frame. Acros has a good enough latitude such that 1 stop over in normal conditions would be fine, so the combination of not trusting the datasheet, the exposure latitude and the fading light meant 1 stop would be fine. Entirely depends on the circumstances tbh :) Does all that kinda make sense?

Makes perfect sense, thanks for replying.
 
I hope these are welcome here. The photographs themselves are digital, but the prints are traditional cyanotypes.

Bloody excellent! love the graphic quality. If hand-printing negs onto Multigrade adds anything unique to an image, as opposed to scanning the negs (tho I remain unconvinced) then this takes printing to a whole new (or old) craft/artisan level. Inspiring!
 
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The emulsion is only sensitive to UV light and not tremendously so, so you paint (dip, scrape or splat) it on to paper in a tungsten-lit room which is otherwise fairly dim, then leave it to dry. You then place your b&w negative on top of the paper and press it flat under glass. Take it out in to daylight and wait a while. The time varies with the amount of light and the density of the negative but 10-15 minutes seemed to do it for me. Every now and then, back in subdued light you take a peek under the negative. I used a clip-frame with the back broken so you could fold back a section. this however lead to some blurring of that area. Once the print looks much darker than you'd like with an almost solarised effect you wash it in clean water, and optionally wash in citric acid to increase contrast until the last of the yellow unexposed/underexposed emulsion is gone. Leave to dry and you're done.
 
Printed onto a sheet of acetate i would imagine
 
Love this. Really good!

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Hello guys, I haven't posted here before. My name is Erik and I shoot on a Fuji GF670. Mostly C41. Doing my own development at home on a Jobo CPE-2 Plus. I really like the output I'm getting. My university has Imacon scanners (X1 and X5) and printing from 3200 dpi scans I get glorious A1 prints.

I have been shooting a lot of trolleys on Ektar 100 recently. Scans on a V600.

Thanks. Some great pictures there - how are you getting on with the GF670?
 
Thanks osh.

We're getting along very nicely. I love the small form factor and the weight when it's collapsed. The lens is excellent. Most importantly, focus is dead on. This is the MF camera I find easiest to focus (previously had 501C/M & Rolleiflex 2.8E, also tried M7II).

I'm shooting a pretty big job with it today, mostly portraiture, mostly full body. Expecting to run more than 12 rolls through it.
 
Any chance of some details on this one Steve? Ie what film, camera and developing etc? Im still toying with the idea of playing with film, and this is the type of look im after with the nice grain etc. :)

Wow, love the grain on that one.:thumbs:
 
^^^^^^^

I like them a lot, #1 is very well focused and the little girl's pose is very good, on the down side it is a shame about the cluttered BG and a pity the top of the hat is blown. I must say that those are very photogenic eye,s.

Very well done on the dev as well.
 
medwaygreen said:
^^^^^^^

I like them a lot, #1 is very well focused and the little girl's pose is very good, on the down side it is a shame about the cluttered BG and a pity the top of the hat is blown. I must say that those are very photogenic eye,s.

Very well done on the dev as well.

Thanks for the comment, i really need to rescan the top one.
Just did a quick scan with the epson software without any adjustment, could do with some Processing:)
 
Thanks osh.

We're getting along very nicely. I love the small form factor and the weight when it's collapsed. The lens is excellent. Most importantly, focus is dead on. This is the MF camera I find easiest to focus (previously had 501C/M & Rolleiflex 2.8E, also tried M7II).

I'm shooting a pretty big job with it today, mostly portraiture, mostly full body. Expecting to run more than 12 rolls through it.

Sounds ideal. Looked at some of your pictures on Flickr and the quality certainly seems good. I've been thinking about getting one for ages - was looking at the wide version too but the portability of the folder would be perfect for going to the mountains. The only advantage of the wide one from my perspective (given that I actually quite like 80mm as a focal length) would be the ability to use Lee ND grads, but in reality I doubt I'd be doing that very often...

Look forward to seeing your pictures from today!
 
Only decent shot from egg rolling on Sunday, Pan F and hand holding a RB67 aren't ideal. Still live and learn. This was done in Rodinal 1+100 for an hour because I had to nip out for a bit but it was very dense, I'm not sure if it was under exposed or under developed, came out ok in LR.


PanF-RB67-Apr13010 by steveo_mcg, on Flickr

Shot with my RB67 on PAN F, developed in rodinal 1+100 for an hour or so.
 
Steve, your image is very flat, as you have editing allowed, I took the liberty of increasing the brightness and contrast.

increasedbrightnessampcontrast.jpg
 
Your right Ed, that does look much better. That's what I get for editing late at night.
 
Sounds ideal. Looked at some of your pictures on Flickr and the quality certainly seems good. I've been thinking about getting one for ages - was looking at the wide version too but the portability of the folder would be perfect for going to the mountains. The only advantage of the wide one from my perspective (given that I actually quite like 80mm as a focal length) would be the ability to use Lee ND grads, but in reality I doubt I'd be doing that very often...

Look forward to seeing your pictures from today!

Thanks!

I think the 80mm is a superb focal lenght. It reminds me of 35mm on full frame, albeit slightly longer, which is perfect.

The shoot yesterday went very well. Metro Imaging processed all 13 rolls in 1 hour and 30 minutes this afternoon (which I think is quite impressive) and I'm now in the process of scanning them. Every single frame is in sharp focus. Really happy.
 
Picked up three "dev & cd" jobs yesterday, the first of which was the first home roll of some bulk Agfa 400S traffic film.

I've now had two films back and both show some linear scratches which don't appear with other films through the same OM4 so maybe it's a defect I'll have to live with. On the other hand, Studio 5 slapped my wrist for not telling them what this film was as they had a bit of trial and error. I'm happy with the results. See what you think.

010_10_zpsb0662618.jpg


008_8_edited-1_zps451fab8b.jpg.html


009_9_edited-1_zpsdfbf54d8.jpg


015_15_zpsd279a3f8.jpg
 
Chaps and lasses this is another page of wonderful photos, just all around goodness.

I don't like to play favourites but I have to say that Osh's shot of the pony is one of the best photos I have ever seen. I keep going back to it for another look. It has an almost 3d quality to it and the sharpness is a wonder to behold. Perfect.

Andy
 
Picked up three "dev & cd" jobs yesterday, the first of which was the first home roll of some bulk Agfa 400S traffic film.

I've now had two films back and both show some linear scratches which don't appear with other films through the same OM4 so maybe it's a defect I'll have to live with. On the other hand, Studio 5 slapped my wrist for not telling them what this film was as they had a bit of trial and error. I'm happy with the results. See what you think.

010_10_zpsb0662618.jpg


008_8_edited-1_zps451fab8b.jpg.html


009_9_edited-1_zpsdfbf54d8.jpg


015_15_zpsd279a3f8.jpg

Only 3 of the 4 images showing. I love the 2nd showing (3rd) all are well exposed however I would correct the verticals of the first.


As for the scratches, were both the films suffering taken from bulk rolls? If so are you sure you are following the correct procedure for your bulk loader?

Years ago I had similar problems with a 'computrol' type loader (see below) when I wasn't opening the film gate when loading the film, this meant that the film was being 'dragged' across the film gate when loading causing scratches.

computrol.jpg
 
Years ago I had similar problems with a 'computrol' type loader (see below) when I wasn't opening the film gate when loading the film, this meant that the film was being 'dragged' across the film gate when loading causing scratches.

computrol.jpg

I had similar problems with a bulk loader as well, I wasn't opening the film gate fully :bang:
 
^^^ Schoolboy error.....:lol:
 
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