Show us yer film shots then!

Mr_T said:
At 50mm at an aperture of f/22 you'd need to be 13 feet away from the rails (your subject) to have focus all the way from 6.3ft to infinity. If for example your subject distance was 5 feet away, you'd only have from 3.75 feet to 8.34 feet in focus at the same focal length and aperture.
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Maybe we are saying the same thing:), but,
at 50mm,f22 everything from 6.3ft to infinity is in focus. So, if I am 6.3 ft away from the rails, then everything from the rail to infinity will be in focus, isn't it. I dont need to be 13 feet away.
( I know hyperfocal is 1/3 foreground etc; but I tend to set the infinity at the F stop, and frame it such that the closest foreground is at the min focus distance. Then, everything in the frame stays in focus. Of course the sharpness varies, but as I said, I find that easy to use because of failing eyesight and reasons of speed. Javier : whats Katz eye, please)
 
Nothing too amazing, just some first shots with my eBay Mamiya M645J using a Sekor C 80mm f/2.8 N lens and Ilford FP4+





 
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Hyperfocal distance works well enough for street shots. By the time you've focussed the subject becomes aware of the camera as often as not, which kills the picture. In an ideal world AF would be the answer but it's just as likely to focus on the gap between people. With daylight and 400ASA film, a 28mm lens focussed around 6ft away gives a decent zone of sharpness to fire away in portrait to mid-shot mode and even full length people will be acceptably sharp.

edit: I'd post some recent stuff but wasted half a day trying to reinstall HP scanner software yesterday to no avail. New scanner needed I think.
 
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ujjwaldey8165 said:
Thats just the begining Arthur.

Today is our 15th. And the fun has just begun :D

( and by fun, I mean the fight - you know that, surely)
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We seem to be a dying breed (long-term marriages) sadly... but now most of the corners are worn down - at least to the point where I don't trip over them every day - so it's getting like an old pair of slippers. Still fight now and then though and yes, it's fun :D
 
colpepper said:
In an ideal world AF would be the answer but it's just as likely to focus on the gap between people.
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Thinking some more about this comment you could extend the same notion to exposure, the meter has little concept of what the photographer values as important. Between hyperfocal and pre-metering for skintones you can get perfectly automation out of a manual camera! For street work anyway.
 
colpepper said:
Thinking some more about this comment you could extend the same notion to exposure, the meter has little concept of what the photographer values as important. Between hyperfocal and pre-metering for skintones you can get perfectly automation out of a manual camera! For street work anyway.
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Can you please elaborate on the pre-metering . Are you talking about metering off a standard tone - grass or the palm of the hand and set the meter to that. I sometimes do that, especially when there is strong sun and shadow. Or is there some other technique.
 
ujjwaldey8165 said:
Nice ones Andy and Thmaga
Its in the shots like your last one, Thmaga, that hyper focussing comes in handy
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Mr_T said:
I'm not so sure how well the hyperfocal distance technique would work there, the rails in the foreground are probably too close. If you stood back a little you may be OK.
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jgredline said:
I agree and not sure why you would want Hyperfocal focusing here at all. It is not like a street shot where time is important.
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paleblue said:
If you have photoshop, a quick fix way of getting rid of that disgusting colour cast is to select a black point of the image using the levels adjustment layer (highlighted with the pink circles). I set it to the shadow of the pole, and then set the white level to the whitest part of the cloud (green circles). It's not the best solution as you can see by the 'holes' in the histogram, but at least it should give a better representation.
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Ambermile said:
:thinking: "disgusting colourcast"?

**Edit - oh right, that one... only saw it when I adjusted. Old eyes, see. (or rather don't)
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paleblue said:
Velvia has green cast shadows? oh ok
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Mr_T said:
At 50mm at an aperture of f/22 you'd need to be 13 feet away from the rails (your subject) to have focus all the way from 6.3ft to infinity. If for example your subject distance was 5 feet away, you'd only have from 3.75 feet to 8.34 feet in focus at the same focal length and aperture.
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Thanks for all your comments and thoughts! I'll bare the hyper-focal distance in mind if I re shoot it, I might use my 35mm for more DOF.

Can't say i noticed a cast, except it looking a little warm to my eyes, but its noticeable after you've corrected it.
I tend to leave the colours be though, the velvia scans are usually pretty bad, very noisy, so any processing usually makes the noise issue worse.
 
Javier and Andy thanks for the comments.
 
ujjwaldey8165 said:
Can you please elaborate on the pre-metering . Are you talking about metering off a standard tone - grass or the palm of the hand and set the meter to that. I sometimes do that, especially when there is strong sun and shadow. Or is there some other technique.
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Yes, taking a grey card reading or something similar at the start of a session. Unless the light alters the aperture and shutter speed can be left where they are, which is often more reliable than automated camera metering, which is skewed by reflections or skylight and gives inconsistently dense negatives. Walking the opposite way down a street usually means taking another reading compensating for backlight.
It leaves the photographer to concentrate on the shot.
 
IainG said:
A couple of shots from my Pentax MX and the 28mm f2.8 SMC-M lens. The film was Kodak BW400CN developed (and badly marked:'() by Tesco.

4841142326_0d8fb816cb_o.jpg
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I meant to comment on this one but got ditracted. What do you mean by (and badly marked:'() by Tesco. ?

To my eyes they both look pretty good but especially this one. BW400CN usually has that purple tint and these do not. These look more like Ilford XP-2 which is a good thing.
 
This fellow was rocking out to Black Sabbath's Paranoid and doing a good job!
ME-FM40F28UltraMax400ProShopScans8.jpg


This fellow was singing the blues, but to me personally, he will always be the bright red shirt musician from my very first roll of Ektar 100
ME-FM40F28UltraMax400ProShopScans10.jpg


One more fellow on a guitar. This guy is usually grouchy, but he happily takes his tips.
ME-FM40F28UltraMax400ProShopScans15.jpg


This cute couple celebrating their 2 month anniversary according to the cake..Now this guy has game as they say.
ME-FM40F28UltraMax400ProShopScans11.jpg


A couple of precious elderly ladies enjoying the view
ME-FM40F28UltraMax400ProShopScans12.jpg


Say Cheese
ME-FM40F28UltraMax400ProShopScans19.jpg
 
Just one from me, again an old one as I am having to wait until I have finished all of my films before sending them off :(

32cm.jpg


AE-1 - 50mm - Provia 100
 
jgredline said:
I meant to comment on this one but got ditracted. What do you mean by (and badly marked:'() by Tesco. ?

To my eyes they both look pretty good but especially this one. BW400CN usually has that purple tint and these do not. These look more like Ilford XP-2 which is a good thing.
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Thanks for the comment. I was actually referring to some of the other negs which were on the same roll which had big smears across them which must have occurred during the processing.

I'm quite pleased with BW400CN. I've found XP2 sometimes a bit too contrasty and grainy.
 
This from my first lot of film taken on a Canon AE-1.

4849381238_cbc6b11d0e.jpg
 
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Peach said:
This from my first lot of film taken on a Canon AE-1.
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you'll get slung over somebody's knee posting oversize like that if you're not careful....:p

nice pic, exposure is bang on, no blowouts and hardly any black..
 
I really must try my dads olympus om film camera. The pics on here do look nice i must admit.
 
prince said:
I really must try my dads olympus om film camera. The pics on here do look nice i must admit.
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:clap:

Do it, you won't be sorry :thumbs:
 


Canon A-1, Canon FD 135mm f/2.8 using expired Kodakcolour VR200 film, accidentally shot at ISO100 and processed accordingly by Peak. :)
 
Works for me Rob.

Andy
 
Liam said:
Just one from me, again an old one as I am having to wait until I have finished all of my films before sending them off :(

32cm.jpg


AE-1 - 50mm - Provia 100
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Love this the way the light streaks are sharp and the posts are out of focus :thumbs:
 
A few more taken on Centuria 200Asa.

#1
Photo27_26Acs5.jpg

#2
Photo30_29Acs5.jpg

#3
Photo31_30Acs5.jpg
 
4857540582_353f7766b2_o.jpg


Another image from my crown graphic, I seem to be having problems with fomapan as I keeping getting spots all over the negs :(
 
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