Show us yer film shots then!

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Not mine, but my brother's. However, I thought it was such a creative solution to a film problem, it was worth posting here :cool:


"Necessity Is The Mother of Invention" by oceanheadted, on Flickr

I was in the National Museum of Scotland at the weekend and rashly had my camera loaded with Pan F (iso 50 ) which wasn't fast enough for the indoor conditions. I measured the exposure of the space I wanted to photograph at f2.8@1/15, with no tripod to hand it wasn't going to work. The the throught of doing a double exposure popped into my head, with two exposures I could halve the shutter speed.

Check out Falling Through The Lens's stream for a feast of multiple exposures.

Rodinal RO9, 1+50. 1st minute agitations followed by 2 inversions per minutes for 12 minutes total development.
 
I regret buying all those rolls of Neopan 1600, it's fantastic and I'll be really sad once my stash is gone. 1250 - 1600 in Diafine, M4 + 35/1.2.

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50/1.5:
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Hi all,
Just been getting some practice developing at home, I think these came off the 4th roll! Shot on Tri-X 400 with a Nikon F4 and 28-85 AF-D

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This one was shot on Fuji Velvia 100 and not developed at home, also with the F4

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So far so good, just need to shoot more to get some more developing practice!
 
This is from a negative i scanned using my HP Scanjet 3570.
It's a flatbed with film adapter.

1st time I've ever used it.

This was my bike back in 1976, taken with a Pentax Spotmatic SP1000.
My first ever SLR. Lens was probably the 50 or 55mm SMC Takumar 1.8

Not a great image, but it brings back lots of memories, i hadn't realised i still had this, very happy.:)

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I hope you don't mind Trevor, I just couldn't resist getting that colour cast out, even though it does lend a kind of 70's feel to the shot:

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Nice how photos can take you back.
 
Deckard said:
I hope you don't mind Trevor, I just couldn't resist getting that colour cast out, even though it does lend a kind of 70's feel to the shot:

Nice how photos can take you back.

Don't mind in the slightest. Looks great, if only I could swing a leg over it.
 
Superewza said:
I bet you wish you still had the bike ;)

Certainly do. I've had plenty of bikes and this is the only one I've got a picture of.
 
One more, taken the other week :)

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Quite pleased with how this one came out!
[ Shen Hao 5x4, CHS25, yellow filter ]
 
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Cracking shot Woodsy, very dramatic. How are you getting on with the Shen Hao?
 
@ Woody, love the composition and the highlight tones, but is there more detail in the shadow detail on the negative which appears a bit blocked up?

If so, it may be worth scanning the image with a couple of stops additional exposure as well as the standard scan and then combining them in post processing.

If not you are going to have to start using the Zone system as it was meant to be used combining your exposure with your intending development to either expand or contract the tones.

Great image though.
 
Cracking shot Woodsy, very dramatic. How are you getting on with the Shen Hao?

Many thanks :) Absolutely loving it. It's simple to set up and the glass is nice and clear. I've never shot anything else, so can't compare to other 5x4 cameras, but I'm really enjoying using it!

@ Woody, love the composition and the highlight tones, but is there more detail in the shadow detail on the negative which appears a bit blocked up?

If so, it may be worth scanning the image with a couple of stops additional exposure as well as the standard scan and then combining them in post processing.

If not you are going to have to start using the Zone system as it was meant to be used combining your exposure with your intending development to either expand or contract the tones.

Great image though.

Thanks for the feedback Ed. There is a lot of shadow detail on the neg, I fear I may have just pushed the levels a little too far. I could try and rescan it, but I think fiddling with the levels layer in PS may help. My issue though, while I like the look of this as it is, is that when I don't quite push the levels so far the shot looks flat. I used the zone system (spot metering on the various parts of the image I wanted to expose for) in taking this shot, but only as far as keeping everything within the dynamic range of the film. Exposure merging and stuff like that almost seems like cheating imho. Either way, I'll take your advice on board, give it a fiddle tonight and repost. Would appreciate your thoughts then also :)
 
I recently took part in a "Film swap" on Flickr. This is where you contact somebody else via a Flickr group preferably in another country to give a variety of shots. You both expose a film then when finished swap the films through the post and then reshoot each others film. This obviously double exposes the film. It's a bit hit and miss but can give some interesting results. The person I swapped with lives in Singapore and we both had F3's so we agreed to shoot both rolls on them, here are some of the results.



Film swap with Min Chu Tan by paul139, on Flickr

'Film Swap' - what a cool idea :thumbs:!

I liked the third one best (above) ;).
 
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Heh! I can tell you're excited about the shallow depth of field possible with 35mm Adam. I like the tree in the snow and the lizard ornament! Welcome to the smelly side ;)
 
@Adam, the one ending #0015 has some very nice (not oversaturated) realistic colours. Can you let us know what film was used and who processed it.
 
@Adam, the one ending #0015 has some very nice (not oversaturated) realistic colours. Can you let us know what film was used and who processed it.


Certainly, it was fujifilm superia 200ASA and processed by photo-express (very modest price of £5 processing + scan). The quality of the scans is generally pretty good (I've got nothing to compare to though so take that with a pinch of salt) but some seem to have heavy noise reduction done, I'm sure those are the ones where I botched the exposure so they've dragged it up exacerbating the grain. If I use them again I might add a request that they set any NR on the scans to as low as possible if they can, I'd prefer grain to blotchy noise reduction.

Thanks for the comments.
 
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@Adam, the one ending #0015 has some very nice (not oversaturated) realistic colours. Can you let us know what film was used and who processed it.

Well I agree, and nice to know he is using Superia 200asa :thumbs:
 
It's probably just me and a series of coincidences, but I've had a disaster every time I've used Superia 200: totally out of whack exposures, weird colour casts or just nothing at all on one occasion. I've started to feel jinxed. :eek:
 
It's probably just me and a series of coincidences, but I've had a disaster every time I've used Superia 200: totally out of whack exposures, weird colour casts or just nothing at all on one occasion. I've started to feel jinxed. :eek:

Wrong Asda or Tesco ;)
 
It's probably just me and a series of coincidences, but I've had a disaster every time I've used Superia 200: totally out of whack exposures, weird colour casts or just nothing at all on one occasion. I've started to feel jinxed. :eek:

Me too, Rob ;). I gave up on the idea of ever using colour film again after shooting two rolls of that cr@* and only use b&w now. Mind you, I'm not generally known for my tolerance :D.
 
Me too, Rob ;). I gave up on the idea of ever using colour film again after shooting two rolls of that cr@* and only use b&w now. Mind you, I'm not generally known for my tolerance :D.


:shake: :suspect: :wave:
 
Many thanks :) Absolutely loving it. It's simple to set up and the glass is nice and clear. I've never shot anything else, so can't compare to other 5x4 cameras, but I'm really enjoying using it!



Thanks for the feedback Ed. There is a lot of shadow detail on the neg, I fear I may have just pushed the levels a little too far. I could try and rescan it, but I think fiddling with the levels layer in PS may help. My issue though, while I like the look of this as it is, is that when I don't quite push the levels so far the shot looks flat. I used the zone system (spot metering on the various parts of the image I wanted to expose for) in taking this shot, but only as far as keeping everything within the dynamic range of the film. Exposure merging and stuff like that almost seems like cheating imho. Either way, I'll take your advice on board, give it a fiddle tonight and repost. Would appreciate your thoughts then also :)

Hope you don't mind Jonathon, i had a little play. Created my own Dodge and Burn tools using calculations and curves. I'll happily take it down if you object.

It actually looks better here
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Not a particularly impressive shot, this is the tunnel on Swallow level, Dinorwic Quarry. My Plustek could not eve nscan this frame. Here's how it looks from the new Minolta without any adjustments at all necessary!

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OM4Ti, Vivitar S1 24-48mm and Fuji 160S film for those who care.
 
plusteks are great, yours is just dead :p

Not a patch on the Minolta even when it was alive, it could never scan Fuji 800Z exposed at box speed, and struggled with any kind of shadow detail, I always thought it was good with highlights though, but turns out it wasn't all that. Just starting a fund for the 5400 Elite now :D

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i suppose the right one is minolta. hard to tell on 11" ans such small size.
tbh I'm not a big believer in old minoltas + they are expensive. don't know about the new model but my 7600i does the job well. software makes a big difference as well, still learning/tweaking mine
 
i suppose the right one is minolta. hard to tell on 11" ans such small size.
tbh I'm not a big believer in old minoltas + they are expensive. don't know about the new model but my 7600i does the job well. software makes a big difference as well, still learning/tweaking mine

Does that one have the HDR multi exposure? That would have made a huge difference, the 7200 doesn't have it and it's desperately needed.
 
Does that one have the HDR multi exposure? That would have made a huge difference, the 7200 doesn't have it and it's desperately needed.


don't know ! :D

A quick read says that the new model does have hdr and some other stuff. don't know about mine.
 
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