Shed studio, kit advice

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Hi,

Thinking of building a big shed at the bottom of the garden and having a studio setup. Want to experiment with lots of different types of photography as not sure what I’d like to focus on. I know FF isn’t needed for lots of different types of photography but been told by a few people I met the other day that you want FF for studio work. Correct advice? Also if so was thinking either a Nikon D610 or Canon 5d Mk3. Don’t want to start a war but any benefit of Canon over Nikon. The chap I was talking to has a local studio and does it for a living and said Canon is better as better skin tones and also the 70-200 (if doing outdoor portrait) is a true 70-200 focal length where the Nikon is approx 70-140?? The way the aspect is he said.

I have given up on my Fuji stuff as it developed a fault today. That’s 2 cameras now (xt10 dead pixels on the sensor and now XT1 knackered lcd as flickers) so want to build a system that is going to be reliable.

Thanks for any help.

Matt
 
The 5D3 would be a good body to use for your home studio, though to be fair you could use the Nikon just as well with the right glass on it. Firstly unless your shed is going to be massive, a very useful lens to have on a full frame body is a 50mm. On a crop body it's going to get tighter for some shots in a small studio space by time you allow some distance between subject and background and then you need distance between you and your subject. I'm just finishing building my own studio in a 16ft x 12ft wooden out building I erected last year. I've been using the 50mm lens on my full frame Canon bodies to get a feel for the space and found that it's ideal and I use an 85mm for tighter shots where I want more subject and less background. Unless your shed is going to be bigger than mine by a reasonable bit you might find 70mm a bit long for some work. I also use a 24-70 but don't really like going much under 40mm as one ends up with big noses or some other body part which looks disproportionate and you also end up photographing the entire studio rather than just the intended target. The colour tones regarding Nikon and Canon are subjective you need to see both with your own eyes and decide for yourself.

I occasionally use crop bodies in the studio, just have to bear in mind that the 1.6 crop makes the lenses longer so I don't often go over a 50 in a tight space.
 
FujiMatt said:
that you want FF for studio work. Correct advice?
Click to expand...
No ... wrong advice.

As with anything photography related it depends on what you are shooting but for the vast majority of "typical" studio shots any camera will do. I've been testing the XT2 which as you know is a crop sensor, gave perfectly good images in the studio (portraits etc). I'd concentrate more on the size, height in particular and lighting setups (especially modifiers) before I'd worry over which camera body.

There is one reason, and as far as I'm concerned only 1 reason why I would consider Canon a better choice than Nikon, that is they do a very desirable 135mm f2 lens at reasonable cost, having said that new Nikon 105mm f1.4 is a good reason to shoot Nikon (albeit eye wateringly expensive). From my own experience I have found the Nikon 85mm lenses to be better than Canons, but I know plenty of folk who will say the opposite (I really don't like the canon 85mm f1.2 for example, hate the way it renders ... other say its the best there is - go figure).

The comment about skin tones etc reeks of farmyard aromas ;) - that really is a personal choice and really comes down to how you process the images.

Maybe try a studio shoot somewhere too.

My advice is to pick the camera system you are comfortable using, ultimately that was the deciding factor for me after trying the XT2 - I loved so much about it including the IQ but the Nikon just handles better for me. fwiw if you were thinking of Nikon the D750 is a good option - I've had a D600 and a D610 and I thought they were great, my D810 is probably overkill for me just now, but the D750 is such a good balance of features etc at a great price (particularly used). I don't think there is a bad camera made these days.
 
Phrasemaker said:
The 5D3 would be a good body to use for your home studio, though to be fair you could use the Nikon just as well with the right glass on it. Firstly unless your shed is going to be massive, a very useful lens to have on a full frame body is a 50mm. On a crop body it's going to get tighter for some shots in a small studio space by time you allow some distance between subject and background and then you need distance between you and your subject. I'm just finishing building my own studio in a 16ft x 12ft wooden out building I erected last year. I've been using the 50mm lens on my full frame Canon bodies to get a feel for the space and found that it's ideal and I use an 85mm for tighter shots where I want more subject and less background. Unless your shed is going to be bigger than mine by a reasonable bit you might find 70mm a bit long for some work. I also use a 24-70 but don't really like going much under 40mm as one ends up with big noses or some other body part which looks disproportionate and you also end up photographing the entire studio rather than just the intended target. The colour tones regarding Nikon and Canon are subjective you need to see both with your own eyes and decide for yourself.

I occasionally use crop bodies in the studio, just have to bear in mind that the 1.6 crop makes the lenses longer so I don't often go over a 50 in a tight space.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. The shed will be approx 3mx5m in size. I wish the Fuji was more reliable as they do some lovely 27mm/35mm/50mm lenses but I’ve had nothing but issues with the kit I’ve bought. Regarding colour I agree beauty is in the eye if the beholder so will try and get a look at some work taken by both.

Matt
 
My first thought regarding a shed is size, especially height. It obvoudly depends on what you are shooting but you may struggle with large modifiers
 
PaulButler said:
No ... wrong advice.

As with anything photography related it depends on what you are shooting but for the vast majority of "typical" studio shots any camera will do. I've been testing the XT2 which as you know is a crop sensor, gave perfectly good images in the studio (portraits etc). I'd concentrate more on the size, height in particular and lighting setups (especially modifiers) before I'd worry over which camera body.

There is one reason, and as far as I'm concerned only 1 reason why I would consider Canon a better choice than Nikon, that is they do a very desirable 135mm f2 lens at reasonable cost, having said that new Nikon 105mm f1.4 is a good reason to shoot Nikon (albeit eye wateringly expensive). From my own experience I have found the Nikon 85mm lenses to be better than Canons, but I know plenty of folk who will say the opposite (I really don't like the canon 85mm f1.2 for example, hate the way it renders ... other say its the best there is - go figure).

The comment about skin tones etc reeks of farmyard aromas ;) - that really is a personal choice and really comes down to how you process the images.

Maybe try a studio shoot somewhere too.

My advice is to pick the camera system you are comfortable using, ultimately that was the deciding factor for me after trying the XT2 - I loved so much about it including the IQ but the Nikon just handles better for me. fwiw if you were thinking of Nikon the D750 is a good option - I've had a D600 and a D610 and I thought they were great, my D810 is probably overkill for me just now, but the D750 is such a good balance of features etc at a great price (particularly used). I don't think there is a bad camera made these days.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I do like the Fuji gear in principle and have the XT1 and grip so better still for me but now have a body with a knackered lcd. Just feel like I’m constantly getting bad luck with the Fuji stuff.

Will have a look at some prices for used kit as don’t think I could afford a new D750/610 as doing this shed.

Matt
 
sirch said:
My first thought regarding a shed is size, especially height. It obvoudly depends on what you are shooting but you may struggle with large modifiers
Click to expand...

I’ve planned it out to be a pent shed so 7ft high at the front and 6ft at the rear.

Matt
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Chris is right with the height, but you have to adhere to building regs.

I've used my studio for M43, crop and FX work. The camera is immaterial.

I'm getting superb quality from my M43 Olympus.

Observe:

From Olympus M43

Rosie on Olympus by Terence Rees, on Flickr



From Fuji crop

XT2 Rosie by Terence Rees, on Flickr



From Canon FX

Rosie 2 by Terence Rees, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Lovely pics. Do think the Fuji one looks the nicest which isn’t making me feel good about getting rid lol
 
The Fuji image 's WB is actually too blue.

But if you pixel peep the originals the Nikon D750 shot (not posted) is the marginal winner.

But I don't need to print 3m x 2m
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Mine's 8' 2" to the apex and it still isn't high enough.

Unless you're taking portraits of dwarves, then you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

Me thinks I need to replan and check buildin regs then lol

Just checked and it’s 2.5m. Why wouldn’t that be high enough? I won’t be taking pics of giraffes haha
 
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FujiMatt said:
Me thinks I need to replan and check buildin regs then lol
Click to expand...


Yeah, building regs. Don't get me started.

I deliberately built mine dead on size, only to then watch Shed of the Year on C4 with shedloads (see what I did there?) of sheds way over the "limit"


"Garden Buildings are considered to be Permitted Development and do NOT require planning permission as long as: The building is to be placed less than 2.0m from the boundary of the property with a maximum overall height of no more than 2.5m from existing ground level."
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Yeah, building regs. Don't get me started.

I deliberately built mine dead on size, only to then watch Shed of the Year on C4 with shedloads (see what I did there?) of sheds way over the "limit"


"Garden Buildings are considered to be Permitted Development and do NOT require planning permission as long as: The building is to be placed less than 2.0m from the boundary of the property with a maximum overall height of no more than 2.5m from existing ground level."
Click to expand...

If it's 2.0m or more from the boundary you can go higher (4m with dual pitched roof, 3m otherwise), I believe

NB: There can be local variations on Permitted Developments (IE making the regulations tighter), so worth checking your local planning office - they are often quite friendly and will let you know if the general rules apply or not.
 
Thanks Faldrax. Our gardens not big enough to facilitate an outbuilding 2m from the boundary so I have to make do with the 2.5m height.
 
soeren said:
I could think of a couple of things to think of before the camera as the latter matters next to nothing.
Click to expand...
This.

It's a folly to spend loads on a camera system, particularly if you're going to devote to a studio, any decent camera will give great results, but there's plenty of crap lenses, and appallingly bad 'studio lighting' for sale.

What's the total budget for camera, kit and studio gear?
 
5k in total but 2k to start as building the shed which is costing a small fortune.

Matt
 
A grand should equip a small studio, look at the Lencarta site.
 
FujiMatt said:
Hi,

Such as?

Matt
Click to expand...

If you're a newcomer to studio work, I'd suggest getting some personal hands-on experience in a studio first - that is, you shooting the kind of subjects you have in mind, not just talking about it or looking over somebody else's shoulder. You could be heading in exactly the right direction, but it's far more likely that you'll get a few things wrong, and they could easily be both fundamental and costly. Eg, you buy a full-frame outfit and build the shed, only to find it's too small and you don't need FF anyway. The advice you're getting is questionable, if not necessarily wrong, but without any qualification and you're not yet in a position to know.

Post more questions. You'll get good advice on here (there have been other threads on shed studios if you search) and while opinions vary, by and large most regular posters in this section are on the same page :)

Starter: you're very tight on width at 3m. If it's table-top products and still-life etc, you should be okay, and solo head and shoulders. But you only have 1.5m on each side and for people you'll need a softbox or similar somewhere between 1-2m away, so you're already hitting the wall and a softbox on a stand needs about another metre more. There are ways around this with varying degrees of compromise that may or may not be acceptable.

Edit: I've just noticed this is in the Equipment section. Suggest you get it moved to Lighting and Studio.
 
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@FujiMatt I don't know where you bought the Fuji cameras from or if they have any warranty, but just so you know Fuji themselves do fixed price repair services on all their cameras/lenses. Its actually very cost effective considering that you are effectively getting a manufacturer refurbished camera at the end of the process. https://repairs.fujifilm.eu/en/fujifilm-repair-centre/?zr=uk

Regarding your shed and equipment advice, the size of the shed really depends on what you want to photograph, and the concerns in the immediate posts above regarding height and width should be well heeded. And as @Phil V says, the choice of camera is almost incidental. Lighting (flash systems), backdrops and suitable lens availability should be higher up the priority list.

I would suggest that you step back from rushing in to anything, and spend a lot of time researching lighting techniques for your chosen subject(s), this will show you the 'real' amount of room that you require. There are loads of videos and tutorials on the net, the lencarta site is a good place to start (@soeren 's post). Then you can specify the shed and start on the equipment.

Buy/Borrow some studio lights and try and set them up in your living room, you'll soon see how tight you are on space!

As @HoppyUK says, I would get some studio experience first, a few ££ spent up front will save you ££££ in the long run.
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Mine's 8' 2" to the apex and it still isn't high enough.

Unless you're taking portraits of dwarves, then you'll be fine.
Click to expand...
If height is a problem would it not be practical to build downwards, ie have sunken floor.
 
As lots of others have said.. you need a better idea of what you want to photograph.

The dimensions you've quoted sound about right for headshots of people sitting down. It'll be tricky for anything other than the blandest full-length shots. Certainly possible, but tricky.

It'd be big enough for some tabletop stuff but I think you'll run out of room as soon as you want to do anything awkward.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
@FujiMatt I don't know where you bought the Fuji cameras from or if they have any warranty, but just so you know Fuji themselves do fixed price repair services on all their cameras/lenses. Its actually very cost effective considering that you are effectively getting a manufacturer refurbished camera at the end of the process. https://repairs.fujifilm.eu/en/fujifilm-repair-centre/?zr=uk

Regarding your shed and equipment advice, the size of the shed really depends on what you want to photograph, and the concerns in the immediate posts above regarding height and width should be well heeded. And as @Phil V says, the choice of camera is almost incidental. Lighting (flash systems), backdrops and suitable lens availability should be higher up the priority list.

I would suggest that you step back from rushing in to anything, and spend a lot of time researching lighting techniques for your chosen subject(s), this will show you the 'real' amount of room that you require. There are loads of videos and tutorials on the net, the lencarta site is a good place to start (@soeren 's post). Then you can specify the shed and start on the equipment.

Buy/Borrow some studio lights and try and set them up in your living room, you'll soon see how tight you are on space!

As @HoppyUK says, I would get some studio experience first, a few ££ spent up front will save you ££££ in the long run.
Click to expand...

Only for the part that is faulty though surely? I mean, if I send it in for the LCD screen to be fixed , they won't replace other parts will they?
 
FujiMatt said:
Only for the part that is faulty though surely? I mean, if I send it in for the LCD screen to be fixed , they won't replace other parts will they?
Click to expand...

My understanding is that's its fixed price per item, so if you send them a camera body it is £xxx to everything on that camera fixed.

(Try it out for yourself, whatever fault(s) you type in for your X-T1, does it come back with the same price???)
 
Ahhh yeah it does. So for instance if the side door was loose or something then its £150 to repair everything. Thats with the extra £10 for fast track. Don't know whether to keep it then and as time goes on and other things go wrong, if they do, just pay the £150 and get the lot replaced.

Matt
 
Matt, when I was looking at going fuji over the last few weeks I did a lot of research into reliability etc, I didn't find anything that would suggest the fuji xt1/2's are any less reliable than canikons ... trouble with the internet is that everything can easily get blown out of proportion and folk are much more likely to whinge about stuff than praise things (usual fanboi exceptions apply ;)).

If you are happy with the fuji system I'd stay with it, from what I can see it will only get better. Lovely range of lenses now too.
 
Yeah , I am going to stick with Fuji , love how this feels in the hand , feels natural and thats a big part I think. Just need to decide on whether to send this back or try and get some partial refund and save it and then wait for any other parts to wear/fail and then pay the £150 to have it repaired in one go. Will have the XT2 by feb/mar anyway so would be a good backup body

Matt
 
good luck!
coincidentally I'm doing something similar (multi purpose shed) but don't intend to make it pay.
4x5m but height is the killer.
I've done shoots in a studio with standard height ceilings and it really limits you in my opinion. if you want a light at 6-7' high but that has a modifier on it that's 4-5' in diameter, then you'd screwed.

super lenses are nice for studio work but I know someone who shoots professionally on a FF camera with a 24-105 f/4. Sharp as needed as you're normally at f/8-11 anyway.
Main thing would be lights, background, brollies and other modifiers.
 
DizMatt said:
good luck!
coincidentally I'm doing something similar (multi purpose shed) but don't intend to make it pay.
4x5m but height is the killer.
I've done shoots in a studio with standard height ceilings and it really limits you in my opinion. if you want a light at 6-7' high but that has a modifier on it that's 4-5' in diameter, then you'd screwed.

super lenses are nice for studio work but I know someone who shoots professionally on a FF camera with a 24-105 f/4. Sharp as needed as you're normally at f/8-11 anyway.
Main thing would be lights, background, brollies and other modifiers.
Click to expand...

If you use umbrellas, or reverse-firing softboxes, you can push them right against the ceiling with a useful boost to effective height. Also, with a white ceiling (or wall) you can bounce the light directly off it. I often do that in a pinch.
 
HoppyUK said:
If you use umbrellas, or reverse-firing softboxes, you can push them right against the ceiling with a useful boost to effective height. Also, with a white ceiling (or wall) you can bounce the light directly off it. I often do that in a pinch.
Click to expand...
cheers mostly I'll be photographing kids or adults if they're on the same level with the kids.
 
Stunning photos
 
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