Setting up micro adjustment

markyboy.1967

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Mark Molloy
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Im loloking at setting the micro adjustment on my big lens ( 600 f4 ) both with and without a 1.4tc added.

What do you use to focus on to do this.

Should i set my DOF to f4 or another f number.

The shortest focussing distance is around 5 meters or so so is there an optimal distance to be shooting at...
 
Focussing is always performed with the aperture at it's maximum so it will occur at f/4 on the 600/4 (equivalent f/5.6 with the extender attahced).
Typically you use around 50x the focal length to eliminate the effects of aberrations but I used 10m for mine as I normally shoot small birds at around that distance.

Bob
 
With very long lenses the popular methods are difficult due to the distances involved. I do it outside, shooting a brick wall with a magazine page stuck to it with BluTack. Test at the closer end of the kind of distances you usually shoot at, as Bob suggests, though with a lens of that quality if there was any significant difference with distance I would send it back to Canon and get them to recalibrate it.

Always test at lowest f/number, centre AF point, rock steady tripod, mirror-lockup, IS off, square to wall. Bubble-level in the hot shoe helps, though within a couple of inches in set-up accuracy doesn't make much odds with a long lens as the change in angles is very slight. If you can light the target with flash at a lower power setting, for very brief durations, so much the better.

Shoot with AF micro adjust at say +10, +5, 0, -5, -10. Do several shots at each setting, defocusing each time. Check for sharpness, often the LCD on max magnification is good enough at this stage. Pick the sharpest and do the same again at finer increments and view on PC.

With any luck you should then be very close to optimum and when that's decided, do a final test shooting a series of six or more, defocusing each time, to check for consistency.

Then you might want to do the same at a much greater distance, like a house at the end of the road. So long as you are square to the target all will be well.

Edit: Forgot to add, a quick check comparing against live view AF, that should always be dead accurate, can save a lot of messing about :)
 
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Im loloking at setting the micro adjustment on my big lens ( 600 f4 ) both with and without a 1.4tc added.

What do you use to focus on to do this.
...

These are my specially manufactured (he he) autofocus micro-adjustment targets, set up on the fence at the bottom of my garden. Shot at 45° at around the short end of my usual range:

icrop_300_TCAF_6.jpg


There was a rumour that you couldn't be sure exactly which sensor the D7000 used, so I made sure there was sufficient lateral separation that I could be sure where it focused. Can you see anything wrong with my arrangement ?

All the rest was down to chimping with zoom, and ViewNX2.
 
You should at least put a small box in the middle, angled square to the camera, to provide a flat target with zero room for error. It's really easy, you must have something in the cupboard, so why not.

Exif says that was taken at f/5.6, which gives quite a degree of tolerance. At f/4 or 2.8 the curved tin has too much room for error.
 
Exif says that was taken at f/5.6, which gives quite a degree of tolerance. At f/4 or 2.8 the curved tin has too much room for error.

f/5.6 indeed; which is wide opent for my 300mm f/4 with a 1.4TC. Noted about the curved tins.
 
try Focal Reikan Technology Ltd works a treat

It costs £20 minimum and is unreliable with too many camera/lens combos. And you still need to set up an accurate target to use it.

There's a dedicated thread elswhere on here with the experiences of various beta testers over the last six months.
 
I set my Micro Adjust by focusing on an object (text worked best for me) at 50x focal length using live view at full magnification, with the camera on a solid tripod. I then switched to normal shooting mode and used the autofocus, if the distance scale on the lens moved I adjusted the MA, I kept tweaking untill Live view and autofocus consistently agreed.

Greatest improvement was on my 28 f1.8, and my 180 macro needed no adjustment at all. My 24 - 70 needed different MA at each end but was linear between the two so I have biased it towards the longer end. I haven't got round to doing my 70 - 200 yet.

The results from my 28mm show this method worked for me, it has transformed the lens from mediocre to very good.
 
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