Seriously considering switching to Nikon.

I'm gonna have to try it in some non critical stuff where it 'should' be failing as remote power would be handy when guns are in mods and out of reach
 
HoppyUK said:
Depends which model you mean. They're all right up there. 1D4 is Nikon D3 level. 1D series is built for speed and reach, and overall they're better at it (arguably) than anything else.
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But now we're talking big money. It'd be cheaper for me to move and get a D300.
 
Nikon gives you rear curtain sync off camera, Canon don't.

Other than that there's very little difference when it comes to flash work.

If you watched the Zack Arias creative live session, early on he explained why he shot both, but preferred the Canon in the studio tethered (Can't recall the exact reason)

If you shoot tethered, Nikon doesn't write to the card (at least not on anything lower than the D3)

D700 + grip will do 8fps :)

5D Mk II has lots of megapixels.

If you're doing controlled shooting, not weddings or events, and want to move away from the herd, get a Mamiya DM, 1/1600s sync, may cost a little more to switch, but you're dancing differently to everyone else ;)
 
I've got an ST-E2 but generally don't use it because of the range. I only use it for very close up stuff such as smoke trails. I much prefer to shoot manual on the camera and flashguns and adjust accordingly, and so I have some of FITP's wireless triggers which work brilliantly over distance.

Never had a problem (other than my skills):D
 
I couldn't tell you Tomas. I've only used it in Windows myself, as all my PCs run Windows.
 
Oh come on, now you're just being silly :P
 
It's only worth doing if you go to D700 or D3/D3s/D3x, invest in 'Pro' glassware and use SB900 speedlights.
If you go 'budget' then it'll probably make more sense to stay put.

The learning-curve as you get to grips with Nikon's ergonomic idiosyncracies will be fairly steep at first as nothing will be where you expect it to be.
After that you'll wonder how you ever did without, as many who've made the swap will testify.
 
i think that's the same no matter which body you move to, even within same brands. I get lost trying to find things on the 400d when I know exactly where they are on the 50D :D
 
to the OP

Can you not get some Pocket Wizards and make the whole CLS thing irrelevant?
 
Raymond Lin said:
to the OP

Can you not get some Pocket Wizards and make the whole CLS thing irrelevant?
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This has become as much about focusing and ISO as CLS. I do like the idea of having higer sync speeds available, but most of my strobist work, as I've repeated, is done manually.

I don't see how PW's make CLS irrelevant. They're both tools for different situations.
 
Raymond Lin said:
Can you not get some Pocket Wizards and make the whole CLS thing irrelevant?
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If CLS isn't failing for a person, why would they even bother wasting money on pocketwizards to fix a situation that isn't broken?

I've used even my popup flash as a commander shooting AutoFP high speed sync with SB-900s @ 1/8000th of a second on bright days with the sun in the shot before now and had no problems with the slaves seeing even the puny popup commander. If I was using an SU-800 or an SB-800/900 as a commander, I'd not be hesitant at all about using CLS - assuming I was in a situation where I had determined a pretty high confidence that CLS would work before I'd even taken my camera out of the bag.

All you're doing with PocketWizards is turning the visual signals into radio signals, but if the visual signals aren't failing, then PocketWizards offer no advantage (and besides, they still haven't even released Nikon versions of the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5).

I'd even suggest going RF-602 before you go PocketWizard if you're happy to physically wander over to each flash, in the event that you're in a situation where you know CLS won't work.
 
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