Sanity check for a film Noob - Will these chemicals work together for b&w processing?

[Naboo32]

Hello (35mm) film buffs !

After some helpful encouragement, which I received in another thread here , I am investigating the options for home-processing with b&w 35mm film.

The hardware seems pretty straight forward, but I just want to be sure that I have understood the chemical side of things correctly . Could someone please take a look at the links below and just tell me if these are all of the chemicals that I would need to produce negatives :shrug:?

Developer ...

Stop ...

Fixer ...

... and would this be worth adding, as I live in a fairly hard water area?

Wetting agent ...

The first lot of film that I want to develop will be T-Max (ISO 400) and after that roll I will most probably be switching to something slower (Arcos 100, for instance).

So, I would just like to know if this set of chemicals will be sufficient to do the job and would also like to know roughly how many rolls of 36 exp. I could expect to get from them (assuming that I use 'medium/low' concentrations and longer developing times) .

Thanks in advance for your help !

 

[robhooley167]

Hello Andy, glad you have decided to go down the develop it yourself route

You have got the right developer and stopbath but i think your fixer is meant for a certain type of paper so im not sure how well it would work

Linky This should do the job instead

Wetting agent is entirely up to you, some people notice a difference where others dont.

The chems you have there should last you for a long time, you only need 2-3ml of rodinal per film and the stop+fix are reusable as long as you keep the solutions in an airtight bottle when not in use

Hope thats been of some use
Rob

 

[freecom2]

The developer & stop look fine, however the fixer is one designed for papers. You might be able to use it for film, but the description certainly indicates it is tailored towards paper. I use Ilford Rapid fixer (on Maco's website here) which is dual purpose, film and paper, so who knows.

Yes, the wetting agent is definitely a good purchase. With the dilution of 1+200, each use of the wetting agent probably amounts to a fraction of a euro cent, which is hardly an expensive price for streak free negatives.

Rodinal goes on for ages, and that depends what dilution you use. It is a one-shot developer. Bear in mind that it isn't known for being the most grain-less developer, but it might work well in T-Max 400 - it generally has a reputation for good performance in lower speed film, like Acros.

 

[Naboo32]

Hello Andy, glad you have decided to go down the develop it yourself route

You have got the right developer and stopbath but i think your fixer is meant for a certain type of paper so im not sure how well it would work

Linky This should do the job instead

Wetting agent is entirely up to you, some people notice a difference where others dont.

The chems you have there should last you for a long time, you only need 2-3ml of rodinal per film and the stop+fix are reusable as long as you keep the solutions in an airtight bottle when not in use

Hope thats been of some use
Rob

Hi Rob !

Yes indeedy, that has been of some use !

I see now that I had chosen the wrong fixer :bang:, but have amended my shopping basket accordingly, thanks to you .

I'm glad that the chemicals will last so long. At 3ml per roll, that's 100 rolls of 35mm :shrug:. More than I'm ever likely to shoot, I shouldn't wonder.

Anyway, I'll see if anyone else wishes to add anything, before I hit the Checkout button.

Cheers!

Andy

 

[Naboo32]

The developer & stop look fine, however the fixer is one designed for papers. You might be able to use it for film, but the description certainly indicates it is tailored towards paper. I use Ilford Rapid fixer (on Maco's website here) which is dual purpose, film and paper, so who knows.

Yes, the wetting agent is definitely a good purchase. With the dilution of 1+200, each use of the wetting agent probably amounts to a fraction of a euro cent, which is hardly an expensive price for streak free negatives.

Rodinal goes on for ages, and that depends what dilution you use. It is a one-shot developer. Bear in mind that it isn't known for being the most grain-less developer, but it might work well in T-Max 400 - it generally has a reputation for good performance in lower speed film, like Acros.

Very helpful post. Thank you, J !

I have corrected the fixer (noob :bonk mistake and will certainly now add the wetting agent to my purchase.

Also, it's good to hear that the Rodinal will work well with Arcos 100, as that's likely to become my main (daylight) film. Equally, if the T-Max 400/Rodinal combination has a sexy look , then I might be able to use those two together for lower light scenarios as well . Let's wait and see .

 

[freecom2]

It's not as cut and dry as that unfortunately, as individual emulsions developed in different developers will produce results that I may be happy with, but you may not. There's a lot of experimenting and trying out different combinations till you are consistently happy with the results you get. There are supposed legendary combinations, like the old Agfa APX100 and Rodinal, but I've heard of people who didn't like that either.

Rodinal lasts forever, anyway. Plenty of anecdotes about people finding bottles of the stuff which is decades old, and using it to develop a film perfectly.

 

[RaglanSurf]

When you finally get yourself set up to dev I can thoroughly recommend this Massive Dev Chart it pretty much covers all film/developer combinations and if you have an Android/iPhone there is an app that turns your phone into a processing timer as well, very much worth the small outlay.

 

[Naboo32]

It's not as cut and dry as that unfortunately, as individual emulsions developed in different developers will produce results that I may be happy with, but you may not. There's a lot of experimenting and trying out different combinations till you are consistently happy with the results you get. There are supposed legendary combinations, like the old Agfa APX100 and Rodinal, but I've heard of people who didn't like that either.

Rodinal lasts forever, anyway. Plenty of anecdotes about people finding bottles of the stuff which is decades old, and using it to develop a film perfectly.

Oh well, I've got to start somewhere .

Perhaps I could ask another, unrelated question? What would be sensible size(s) (the smaller the better) for graduated jugs for measuring and mixing the various chemicals :shrug:? I was thinking about getting three different jugs and would never be processing more than two rolls of 35mm at a time.

I know that the tank only uses about 300ml of developer solution per roll, but I'm not yet sure if the stop and fixer need to be used in larger solutions than that and if it would therefore make sense to get larger jugs for that (500ml, 1000ml :shrug.

Sorry, I know that this is very basic stuff, but I can probably save myself a few costly mistakes by just asking the experts .

 

[Naboo32]

When you finally get yourself set up to dev I can thoroughly recommend this Massive Dev Chart it pretty much covers all film/developer combinations and if you have an Android/iPhone there is an app that turns your phone into a processing timer as well, very much worth the small outlay.

Oh Lord, what am I getting myself into here !? So many combinations :shake:!

Anyway, thanks, I'll bookmark that page for future reference .

 

[EdBray]

Andy, what if any developing kit do you currently have?

I notice you are in Germany, do you also have a UK address?

 

[menthel]

I would keep it simple.

Changing bag.
2 reel jobo or Paterson tank.
2 reels.
Cartridge opener or film end fetching thing.
Scissors.
3x graduated flasks, marked dev, stop and fix.
Large flask for measuring water.
Small flask for measuring chemicals.
Thermometer.
Big plastic bowl and bucket.
Tupperware pot for wetting agent.
Weighted film clips.

I would start with Hp5+ as a very forgiving film. Develop in ilfosol 3 and get ilfostop and rapid fix. Wetting agent is your choice. Follow the box instructions and develop. This is most likely to go right and not put you off. After you have mastered that then branch out!

Also if you can get a film to sacrifice to practice loading in the reels even better.

 

[freecom2]

Paterson Super System 4 tanks, the de facto developing tank, needs 290mL of solution, so you'd need to mix 580mL of solution for each round of developing. Probably best to use 1L jugs, to give you some room for any small spillage or knocking it by accident. This stuff is all very flexible really... I use a multi-use developer, and just pour it from and back into the storage container for each use. Measuring jugs and things are cheap from supermarkets, so it's really up to whatever you can get your hands on.

 

[mustanir]

Another recommendation for massive dev chart here, it has never done me wrong. I gave up on stop bath a long time ago, I find it completely unnecessary where an extra rinse aver dev and before fix will do just fine.

 

[offline]

Another recommendation for massive dev chart here, it has never done me wrong. I gave up on stop bath a long time ago, I find it completely unnecessary where an extra rinse aver dev and before fix will do just fine.

+1 for the stop bath. If - as I understand it - you're thinking of using the Rodinal at 1:100, the developer will naturally have stopped developing by the time you tip it out, a quick water stop will be fine. Even Rodinal at 1:25 will be fine with just a water stop. The wetting agent will be a better invesment - you've no idea how frustrating drying marks can be until you pull roll out that you'd otherwise be very happy with covered in them!

 

[freecom2]

I don't use a stop bath either.

 

[offline]

Perhaps I could ask another, unrelated question? What would be sensible size(s) (the smaller the better) for graduated jugs for measuring and mixing the various chemicals :shrug:? I was thinking about getting three different jugs and would never be processing more than two rolls of 35mm at a time.

For small quantities of developer (less than 10ml), a pipette or syringe is handy. You should be able to pick some up from a chemists, as they often give them with children's medicine. This is really only needed for the developer - for your 300ml, a 1:100 dilution will be 3ml of Rodinal, a 1:50 will be 6ml most jugs won't be that accurate.

 

[Cuchulainn]

You can use white vinegar as a stop bath. It's usually about 4-5% acetic acid, so I use it diluted about 2 or 3 parts water to 1 part vinegar. While stop and fixer won't go bad if you accidentally get a drop of one into the other, make sure you keep the stop well away from the developer!

 

[Naboo32]

Andy, what if any developing kit do you currently have?

I notice you are in Germany, do you also have a UK address?

Hi Ed,

Sounds like you were on the verge of making me a generous offer there . If so, I thank you deeply for the kind thought.

I have ordered the tank and chemicals locally, so I just need to source some household stuff (jugs, gloves and the like) now. Should be good to go in a week or so .

Paterson Super System 4 tanks, the de facto developing tank, needs 290mL of solution, so you'd need to mix 580mL of solution for each round of developing. Probably best to use 1L jugs, to give you some room for any small spillage or knocking it by accident. This stuff is all very flexible really... I use a multi-use developer, and just pour it from and back into the storage container for each use. Measuring jugs and things are cheap from supermarkets, so it's really up to whatever you can get your hands on.

Luckily, I went for a Paterson Super System 4 tank (with 2x35mm holders), just in case I ever get my hands on any larger format film .

I will have another read about the whole development process tomorrow, so that I can figure out what jugs/measures I will need (still confused about mixing the various chemicals etc.). After that ... a trip to 'The Euro Shop' (think, Poundstretcher ) will be in order.

For small quantities of developer (less than 10ml), a pipette or syringe is handy. You should be able to pick some up from a chemists, as they often give them with children's medicine. This is really only needed for the developer - for your 300ml, a 1:100 dilution will be 3ml of Rodinal, a 1:50 will be 6ml most jugs won't be that accurate.

I'll have a nose around and see what I can find - the smallest measuring jug on the website where I bought the other stuff is a 50ml one, but the markings only start at 10ml :thumbsdown:.

 

[Naboo32]

So, as some of you will know from my other thread in this part of the forum, I have been trying to assemble all of the necessary tools to develop and scan my own 35mm film . Having already sorted out the scanning side of things, I was able to turn my attention to the developing stage and, with a lot of help form you all, I now have an order placed for nearly all of the kit that I need to get myself started.

I expect that I'll be back for advice on the odd occasion, but for now I would just like to thank everyone who responded so quickly and thoroughly to my posts. This is only a 'small corner' of the TP forums, but it's by far and away the friendliest .

Cheers all !

Andy

 

[EdBray]

Hi Ed,

Sounds like you were on the verge of making me a generous offer there . If so, I thank you deeply for the kind thought.

Yes, I was gifted a large amount of Darkroom equipment, much too much for one person to use and I have a penchant for Jobo tanks/reels so have a few goodies available for someone just starting out.

 

[Naboo32]

Yes, I was gifted a large amount of Darkroom equipment, much too much for one person to use and I have a penchant for Jobo tanks/reels so have a few goodies available for someone just starting out.

Well, that was a very kind thought Ed, thanks . I'm sure that you'll find someone more deserving than me (a student perhaps ) to relieve you of any unwanted items . I have a job - I should probably pay for my own kit .

As I said earlier, this is the best corner of the forum, for sure !

 

[EdBray]

Well, that was a very kind thought Ed, thanks . I'm sure that you'll find someone more deserving than me (a student perhaps ) to relieve you of any unwanted items . I have a job - I should probably pay for my own kit .

As I said earlier, this is the best corner of the forum, for sure !

Oh, don't worry, there's enough for quite a few new starters to film developing.