Sanity Check 2

mike weeks

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mike
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What about reviewers that don't know their fact from their fiction, or as we say in my world, there are engineers and there are salesmen

Here is an example
The ELB400 is a 400W/s pack, but because you can shoot at a much faster shutter speed, you can crush your ambient light levels by much more then you’d otherwise be able to, and the overall effect will be akin to shooting with a much larger and more powerful flash at a longer standard flash sync speed like 1/250 of a second
or did he just copy it from the sales blurb?

Now Elinchrom are using Tail Sync (They call it HiSync), what is really nice is that the transmitter is tuned to the heads so no work required from the photographer to get the best performance but wait

So if you just read that blurb you might think that you were getting all the power still at faster shutter speeds, BUT YOU ARE NOT because as you go above X-Sync the light is captured between the traveling slit formed by the 2 curtains and the faster you go the smaller the slit. When I went to school a smaller slit lets through less light than a wider slit. What this means that along with a reduction in Ambient as the shutter speed increases there is also a linear reduction in the flash light.

Elinchroms own info says
"When shooting outdoors, in broad daylight, being restricted to a shutter speed or 1/200th or 1/250th second means that quite a bit of flash output (Watt-seconds) is required to overpower daylight.

By accessing higher shutter speeds, we can overpower daylight with less power output (or from farther away)"

Thing is that would be true if the effective power (light captured) went up as the shutter speed goes up, but the reality is that it may stay proportionately the same (depending on technology it usually goes down) however I am happy to be proven wrong on this as I have not personally tested the HS head and ELB400

So does this combo have a much greater Sun killing effect above X-Sync? I for one would love to see a side by side test against the same setup at or below X-Sync

Elinchrom demonstrate on their own info the size of slit gets smaller as the shutter speed goes up, and a smaller shutter speed lets through less light i.e. the power of the flash light is effectively reduced as the shutter speed increases as in you cant suddenly better overpower the sun

XSync1.jpg

The HS head is variously quoted as 1/550 or 1/600 t.5 which is an issue as the travelling curtain starts just above X-Sync so you need a light source as long as X-Sync so in the Elinchrom situaton it needs to read much longer than t.5 time and much closer to t.1 time and as we can see the power of the flash diminishes over that time which will lead to graduated power across the frame just as the Photo Professional review states

XSync2.jpg

Me, I trust the article written by @HoppyUK in this months Photo Professional and from that I draw the following conclusions

To overpower the sun you need as much power as possible so;

Simplest answer is to Shoot at X-Sync at full flash power

If you need a larger aperture then ND filters affect ambient and flash equally

If you need to stop action then there are 2 choices at the expense of power loss;

If you need Max power and can live with light fall off across the image (depending on subject this may not be or may bevery noticeable) use a variant of long tail sync such as Elinchrom's HS head

If even light across the frame is the priority then you need good HSS (the pulsed light)

Mike
 
Nice write up Mike, I'd also like to see some proper testing of all the different brands.

There's threads on POTN of the different methods with lots of example shots.
 
So, I'm assuming that you got this from a blog post by one of their customers? http://dancarrphotography.com/blog/2015/12/04/elinchrom-elb-400-hs-unboxing-preview/

If that's a copy and paste from their sales lit, which I haven't read, then that's another matter but no manufacturer can control the content of customer reviews, and many of them get the facts very wrong, it's just life.

We get (and no doubt all other manufacturers get too) loads of people who offer to "spread the word" and promote our equipment. "All" that they ask in return is free equipment... We don't play that game but it's obvious that some do and because of this, together with the general lack of competence of many reviewers, a large % of reviews are best ignored.
 
So, I'm assuming that you got this from a blog post by one of their customers? http://dancarrphotography.com/blog/2015/12/04/elinchrom-elb-400-hs-unboxing-preview/

If that's a copy and paste from their sales lit, which I haven't read, then that's another matter but no manufacturer can control the content of customer reviews, and many of them get the facts very wrong, it's just life.

We get (and no doubt all other manufacturers get too) loads of people who offer to "spread the word" and promote our equipment. "All" that they ask in return is free equipment... We don't play that game but it's obvious that some do and because of this, together with the general lack of competence of many reviewers, a large % of reviews are best ignored.

Garry,

I have seen similar said in a number of places and of course there is the info on Elinchrom's website itself. There are numerous sources where Elinchrom has obviously used pet photographers to write good things. Their own technical info does not seen to agree with established generic info so I was quite happy to read Hoppys review which told a somewhat different story.

Mike
 
To overpower the sun you need as much power as possible so;

Simplest answer is to Shoot at X-Sync at full flash power

If you need a larger aperture then ND filters affect ambient and flash equally

If you need to stop action then there are 2 choices at the expense of power loss;

If you need Max power and can live with light fall off across the image (depending on subject this may not be or may bevery noticeable) use a variant of long tail sync such as Elinchrom's HS head

If even light across the frame is the priority then you need good HSS (the pulsed light)
Agreed. Plus ND's can generally get you a bit more than HSS does.
 
Agreed. Plus ND's can generally get you a bit more than HSS does.

I would say "Will Always" but if you need a lot of ND filter it can make it difficult to see through the viewfinder, not because it is so dar but because it is so dark compared to the ambient and our eyes need time to adjust

Mike
 
I would say "Will Always" but if you need a lot of ND filter it can make it difficult to see through the viewfinder, not because it is so dar but because it is so dark compared to the ambient and our eyes need time to adjust

Mike
The main issue with (fixed) ND's is they may result in "over-killing" the ambient requiring more flash power/output/battery and a stronger ratio than optimally desired.... in that context it could be "less."
 
The main issue with (fixed) ND's is they may result in "over-killing" the ambient requiring more flash power/output/battery and a stronger ratio than optimally desired.... in that context it could be "less."

Just use the correct ND filter, the beauty is that the ND filters reduce the Ambient and the flash by the same amount, tail sync and HSS tend to reduce it (the flash) far more and have no effect on the ambient so they kill the flash far quicker.

Mike
 
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