remote flashgun use

realspeed

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Bazza
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Ok not having the flashguns for some time I decided about time to have a go again. The idea as a bit of fun, setting them up to fire remotely. Have to admit it took some time to get everything up to sync. What with a master transmitter on the camera to marry up with the recivers under the flashguns on same channels and groups. Also about same flash power output needed seeing to. Actually i enjoyed making everything work, not just with these but also with a remote wireless shutter trigger.

Did try using with all this with a nikon D300 and and Nikon 70-200mm lens . It did work firing all at once but the D300 I don't think I had it set up right ss it was out of focus

setup

Nikon D810
lens Tamron 24- 70mm G2 version
tripod Manfrollo befree live
flashguns Nikon SB 900 and Mieke 910
camera remote shutter transmitter and reciever by Phottix
Pixel king pro flash transmitter and receivers
various AA and AAA batteries by Eneloop
 
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Do the speedlites that you are using have the laser cross hatch capability to project the laser on your subject during camera focus? It's only on briefly during the camera focus cycle, so you have to be looking for it and not at the camera to see it.

Without something to focus on, your camera does it's best in the low light, which may not be good enough in very dimly lit areas. Back in my early days of digital, these features weren't available, so I had a red laser gunsight that I modified to fit a cold shoe. When in darkened areas I would turn this laser on, after first explaining to those in the photo what it was for, so they didn't duck and run. The laser was manually operated, so it was on through the entire photo session, but with just the single red dot it was easy to remove in Post, and the camera auto focus worked fine, focusing on the reflection of that little red dot. Today's speedlites have a red plastic window in their bodies covering this laser, and when this feature is turned on, a red laser cross hatch pattern activates briefly during the camera focusing cycle, putting this crosshatch beam of laser light on the front of whatever you are shooting. The camera sees the crosshatch reflection off the model or subjects and the camera focuses, then the camera takes the shot after the laser automatically turns off.

Take the time to learn about this feature and make sure it is turned on when taking photos in low light. Because it's now automatic and very fast, your models/subject won't pay attention to it, and you will get perfectly sharp photos. Many flash controll transmitters have this red window and crosshatch laser built in. In my Godox Pro transmitter, the switch is on the right side, forward of the power switch. The little red plastic window is in the neck of the transmitter just above the hot shoe, but many relatively new speedlites also have the feature and the red plastic window built into them as well.

Charley
 
Do the speedlites that you are using have the laser cross hatch capability to project the laser on your subject during camera focus? It's only on briefly during the camera focus cycle, so you have to be looking for it and not at the camera to see it.

Without something to focus on, your camera does it's best in the low light, which may not be good enough in very dimly lit areas. Back in my early days of digital, these features weren't available, so I had a red laser gunsight that I modified to fit a cold shoe. When in darkened areas I would turn this laser on, after first explaining to those in the photo what it was for, so they didn't duck and run. The laser was manually operated, so it was on through the entire photo session, but with just the single red dot it was easy to remove in Post, and the camera auto focus worked fine, focusing on the reflection of that little red dot. Today's speedlites have a red plastic window in their bodies covering this laser, and when this feature is turned on, a red laser cross hatch pattern activates briefly during the camera focusing cycle, putting this crosshatch beam of laser light on the front of whatever you are shooting. The camera sees the crosshatch reflection off the model or subjects and the camera focuses, then the camera takes the shot after the laser automatically turns off.

Take the time to learn about this feature and make sure it is turned on when taking photos in low light. Because it's now automatic and very fast, your models/subject won't pay attention to it, and you will get perfectly sharp photos. Many flash controll transmitters have this red window and crosshatch laser built in. In my Godox Pro transmitter, the switch is on the right side, forward of the power switch. The little red plastic window is in the neck of the transmitter just above the hot shoe, but many relatively new speedlites also have the feature and the red plastic window built into them as well.

Charley
the transmitter is a Pixel King pro. what i do like it the ability to put a flashgun also on top of the camera via he through put connection on the Pixel King transmitter. not all have this. cost wise an excellet product

link
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiooZ8th89Y
 
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I believe that is a Re-Branded version of the Godox X1T Transmitter. I have the Godox X2Tc, which is a follow-on design. Both have the pass thru hot shoe on top, which helped me make the transition from my old flash equipment to Godox, since I could stack my old transmitter on top and continue to use the old along with the new, until I could afford to replace everything. Adorama, a photography company in New York City also sells rebranded Godox flash equipment under the Flashpoint name. No matter which name is on it, I consider all of them to be very reliable and an excellent choice. In 3+ years I haven't had a single hardware failure with my 7 studio lights, 5 speedlites, and 3 transmitters. Operator failures, yes, where I bumped a channel setting or some other stupid failure. But not failures of the gear.

Charley
 
I believe that is a Re-Branded version of the Godox X1T Transmitter.
It's very different to the Godox trigger, Pixel King products have a small but loyal fanbase

to the OP, there’s no AF assist on your trigger, which means either you need to add a speedlight to the hot shoe to project the AF assist beam, or use something else.

The problem is you’re trying to use Auto focus in the pitch dark, you’ve no chance, without some help, a torch would do.
 
A lot of issues with using AF assist lights and longer lenses/distances... especially the on-body assist light. This is from the SB900 manual.

Screen Shot 2022-10-09 at 12.28.40 PM.png

With my Z9 I had to come up with an alternative because no speedlights/triggers have a compatible assist beam (green/white). So I mounted a green LED flashlight with a remote pressure switch onto a hotshoe picatinny rail.

IMG_20220708_121021852.jpg
 
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