Re-use of FirstCall/Agfa Fix AG Plus Fixer

XA2inmypocket

XA2inmypocket

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Although I've tried several b/w developers, I've only used one b/w fix since I started home processing film.

I've only used Ilford Rapid Fix up to now, and it's worked out well. After diluting into a fixer stock, I look after it carefully, rinsing after stop and before fix, and storing in a one litre collapse-able bottle. I usually manage to re-use it, to fix films around 5 - 7 times (including some double spools of 35mm - so up to around 10 films). I don't like throwing money out.

However, I'm out of it, and I have a 500ml squeezy pack of FirstCall (Agfa) Fix AG Plus Fixer at hand. Once I've made a fixer stock (1:4), can I re-use it similar to the Ilford Rapid? My gut feeling says yes.

Anyone any experience with this product?
 
I don't know of any fixers that can't be reused. The normal rule of thumb is to use until the clearing time doubles (the time it takes for the milkiness in the film to disappear).

Different fixer should be used for prints and films; and the "rules" for prints are different.
 
A bit of an aside but I stopped using stop some time ago. A water wash stops as well as stop stops. There's poetry in this film lark.:)

A bit more money saved.
 
Two points on that:

1. Washing out the developer will stop the action when any residual developer is used up. Whether the increase in development time this extra time adds is significant will depend on how long it takes to stop, and how long the development time is. But if you just rinse once and then plunge the film into an acid fixer, that will stop the development (assuming that the developer is alkali based). However:

2. If you only use one rinse, then you will carry a small amount of alkali over into the fixer (assuming that the developer is alkaline) and this may impact on the fixer itself.
 
Thanks Stephen. All worth bearing in mind.

The method I use is this:

Have good flow of water from mixer taps at suitable temp.
Pour out developer and thrust tank under water flow at exactly end of develop time.
Fill and empty tank 5 times.
Fix.

The results have been totally consistent and there has been no effect on fixer.

Always happy to learn of any improvements I might make.
 
Ilford Rapid fixer....I've had a 1 litre solution made up since April and fixed a boat load of b&w negs .film rolls... It still going strong.

Yhe clip test that Stephen discusses in post No 2 is the way to keep tabs on wether it needs replacing so use the AG stuff and just test it before you use it.

As for water stop....Yes I do this too with generally 3 water rinses, never less than two, and not had any noticeable adverse effects.

EDIT: I might add my previous batch of fixer worked good for litterally dozens of films...I lost count!
 
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Thanks for the replies, especially to Stephen's fast response. I must admit, I've shied away from ever letting it reach a milky state, although with the Ilford Rapid, I don't think that I've let it get away with shirking much work - still reading some of the comments, I should try to make it work on a few more runs.

My present method is perhaps a little over the top but:

1. Develop (inversion method).
2. Quick rinse - ok, I sometimes skip this if it is a fast developing film, but I started doing it to keep the stop bath cleaner.
3. Stop bath.
4. Quick rinse - again, if it's the last use of the fix, I might skip it, but otherwise I do it to keep the fixer stock clean.
5. Fix
6. Rinsing - by extended Paterson method, finished with a little wetting agent. I have tried substituting the wetting agent with washing up liquid - but I didn't like it.
7. Squeegee and dry. I've gone through periods where I've gone off squeegee - but I'm presently happy to do it again. Squeegee really didn't work well with washing up liquid. Wetting agent lets the blades slip down better.
8. I'm sometimes mean with drying time. Over night seems so long sometimes, and I have got away depending on room temp and humidity with less than four hours before scanning (I hybrid process). Otherwise I try to leave drying overnight.
 
Asha said:
Mine: "Hit 'n Miss" with .every stage! :D:D
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My favourite method. I kept a paper log for the first forty films. I made so many mistakes, partly through nerves. I'm very relaxed about b/w film developing now and it seems so simple, that I wonder how I use to make mistakes. I've also learned that i do not like C41.
 
simon ess said:
Have good flow of water from mixer taps at suitable temp.
Pour out developer and thrust tank under water flow at exactly end of develop time.
Fill and empty tank 5 times.
Fix.

The results have been totally consistent and there has been no effect on fixer.
Click to expand...

The wash should be fine in terms of removing developer, depending on how long each wash is left in (and any agitation). Assuming that you use a broadly similar developing time every time, consistency is assured. You might like to look up "water bath development" as omitting the stop goes a little way towards this technique for controlling contrast.
 
XA2inmypocket said:
7. Squeegee and dry. I've gone through periods where I've gone off squeegee - but I'm presently happy to do it again. Squeegee really didn't work well with washing up liquid. Wetting agent lets the blades slip down better.
8. I'm sometimes mean with drying time. Over night seems so long sometimes, and I have got away depending on room temp and humidity with less than four hours before scanning (I hybrid process). Otherwise I try to leave drying overnight.
Click to expand...

I don't personally use a squeegee (sounds like an American photographer who specialised in crime scenes :)) and haven't had any problems. I have seen it advised not to, since a small piece of dirt could scratch the film (the emulsion will be softer when wet through) and if you must, use fingers since you can then feel any grit.

Edit to add:
On testing fixer. I think I may be one of the last people using Ilford HP3 film (not a typo) since I use the remnants of a bulk 35mm reel for testing purposes.

One tip that seems to make sense to me (and I try to follow) is to hang the films up to dry in the bathroom after taking a bath. The idea is that the steam from the bath removes dust particles from the air; plus our bathroom doesn't have a carpet to make dust (it's lino) and it doesn't get the same through currents of dusty air as other rooms.
 
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I've had scratches with a squeegee, but never with fingers.

In the average house the bathroom is the most dust free room.

I dry negs. in the bathroom and rarely, if ever, get problems with dust.
 
StephenM said:
One tip that seems to make sense to me (and I try to follow) is to hang the films up to dry in the bathroom after taking a bath. The idea is that the steam from the bath removes dust particles from the air; plus our bathroom doesn't have a carpet to make dust (it's lino) and it doesn't get the same through currents of dusty air as other rooms.
Click to expand...

simon ess said:
I dry negs. in the bathroom and rarely, if ever, get problems with dust.
Click to expand...

Now that's handy to know(y)
 
StephenM said:
I don't personally use a squeegee (sounds like an American photographer who specialised in crime scenes :)) and haven't had any problems. I have seen it advised not to, since a small piece of dirt could scratch the film (the emulsion will be softer when wet through) and if you must, use fingers since you can then feel any grit.

Edit to add:
On testing fixer. I think I may be one of the last people using Ilford HP3 film (not a typo) since I use the remnants of a bulk 35mm reel for testing purposes.

One tip that seems to make sense to me (and I try to follow) is to hang the films up to dry in the bathroom after taking a bath. The idea is that the steam from the bath removes dust particles from the air; plus our bathroom doesn't have a carpet to make dust (it's lino) and it doesn't get the same through currents of dusty air as other rooms.
Click to expand...

It is an interesting word! I've heard any rubber blade used to remove liquid, described as a squeegee since the late 1970s. I've even used them thirty years ago when I worked as a farm cleaner. It may be US American in origin - a quick research suggests that they may have been named by window cleaners working on skyscrapers.

It might be because I live in a hard water area, but I noticed a build up of water marks and dust when I didn't squeegee. So at the moment, I do. No tram wheels yet - except in old cameras where the rollers caused them. If they occur now - it might because you've talked them up for me Stephen ;)

I do process and dry film in the bathroom, and yes indeed, I have found that a bath clears the air so to speak. I also presently have a bottle of spray water which I ritually spray in the air previous to drying - but I'm not convinced of its effectiveness.
 
XA2inmypocket said:
I usually manage to re-use it, to fix films around 5 - 7 times (including some double spools of 35mm - so up to around 10 films). I don't like throwing money out.
Click to expand...

A litre of Rapid Fix working strength has a capacity of 24 35mm films. What are you doing to only get 10 out of it?
 
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I lose track of how much I get from mine. But for reference 36exp is the same as a roll of 120 so you should be getting at least 10 out of a 500ml batch but probably more like 20-25 if you push the fixing time out a bit more.
 
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