RB67 Prism Finders

Carl Hall

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I'm looking to get a prism finder for my RB, but there seems to be a few different types which do different things. I've tried to find out the differences between them but I've confused myself :confused: Anyone all clued up on the different models and would care to help a fella out? I want to try my hand at shooting some portraits again (something I swore I would never do again! :O ), and I think a prism finder would be more practical than a WLF, unless I get them to sit down all the time or I use a step ladder :lol:

<noob mode> Another question, which is of the silly type. When using a prism, do you remove the pop up hood and the ground glass, or just the hood? </noob mode>

Cheers :)

Carl
 
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Ok, it's instructions for a TLR so no mirror movements to worry about but if the WLF is causing you problems you could use it like in the top-left example. Although you'll probably have to kneel unless you're a hobbit.
 
I have just got a prism finder for my RB67 and I can answer a few questions, firstly they are heavy, you need to keep the ground glass in place as it is your focus screen, you just remove the top view box.

So far I haven't used mine in anger maybe this weekend. I went for the one here ..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271832863...IT&clk_rvr_id=822882402090&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

it has to be said though I am not convinced it would be very good hand holding due to the weight bu mine is confined to its own tripod.
 
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Ok, it's instructions for a TLR so no mirror movements to worry about but if the WLF is causing you problems you could use it like in the top-left example. Although you'll probably have to kneel unless you're a hobbit.


Hold an RB over your head, are you mad!!!
 
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Ok, it's instructions for a TLR so no mirror movements to worry about but if the WLF is causing you problems you could use it like in the top-left example. Although you'll probably have to kneel unless you're a hobbit.

Ha yeah I have seen similar instructions before, not convinced about holding it upside down to focus though, must get a large percentage of chucker-outers from missed focus!
 
I'm looking to get a prism finder for my RB, but there seems to be a few different types which do different things. I've tried to find out the differences between them but I've confused myself :confused: Anyone all clued up on the different models and would care to help a fella out? I want to try my hand at shooting some portraits again (something I swore I would never do again! :O ), and I think a prism finder would be more practical than a WLF, unless I get them to sit down all the time or I use a step ladder :LOL:

<noob mode> Another question, which is of the silly type. When using a prism, do you remove the pop up hood and the ground glass, or just the hood? </noob mode>

Cheers :)

Carl


You've got two options, metered and unmetered. the WLF comes off and the prism goes in its place, the GG stays put you still need that. If you're going to use a flash get an unmetered, if you're using it out side get unmetered. Just get an unmetered its much less hassle.

Remember they're very heavy, its a massive chunk of metal with an enormous mirror. Mine left the house twice and was sold shortly after. I've had only two shots that would have been easier, but I don't shoot people.
 
I have just got a prism finder for my RB67 and I can answer a few questions, firstly they are heavy, you need to keep the ground glass in place as it is your focus screen, you just remove the top view box.

So far I haven't used mine in anger maybe this weekend. I went for the one here ..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271832863...IT&clk_rvr_id=822882402090&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

it has to be said though I am not convinced it would be very good hand holding due to the weight bu mine is confined to its own tripod.

Yeah I saw you post about your new prism, and that's what got me thinking about one. That means it's all your fault :p haha.

I think I'd give it a go handholding to see how I got on, but I'd probably use a monopod for portraits as it's a bit easier to move around and reframe than a tripod.

Which model is that then? As far as I can see theres a basic model 1, and a model 2 which allows a magnifier. Then there's a whole array of metered prisms with different letters such as CDS and PD which confuses me :lol:
 
The main reason I got my prism is firstly I am very used to my Nikon 35mm stuff so it suits my eye better also in bright light the WLF is awkward for me and mainly as I only use it on a tripod.

As @steveo_mcg says tho = heavy.
 
I reckon you could easily monopod it, I have an old 80s vintage very robust tripod that it sits on ok.
 
You've got two options, metered and unmetered. the WLF comes off and the prism goes in its place, the GG stays put you still need that. If you're going to use a flash get an unmetered, if you're using it out side get unmetered. Just get an unmetered its much less hassle.

Remember they're very heavy, its a massive chunk of metal with an enormous mirror. Mine left the house twice and was sold shortly after. I've had only two shots that would have been easier, but I don't shoot people.

Yeah I think I'll probably go for an unmetered one, I haven't properly looked at the metered ones but I suspect they are a lot more money and not that much more useful as I guess you still need to input the settings on the lens.

I'm going to carry on using the WLF as my standard finder, but I think a prism would be handy for taking portraits. Tbh I'm not even sure if I will try some portraits yet as the idea terrifies me haha.

Not sure whether I'll use a flash yet... I've got no freaking clue how to use a flash with a totally manual camera, so I guess that's something else to figure out later!
 
The main reason I got my prism is firstly I am very used to my Nikon 35mm stuff so it suits my eye better also in bright light the WLF is awkward for me and mainly as I only use it on a tripod.

As @steveo_mcg says tho = heavy.

Mine lives on a tripod most of the time but I tend to shoot with the tripod at a very low extension.


Yeah I think I'll probably go for an unmetered one, I haven't properly looked at the metered ones but I suspect they are a lot more money and not that much more useful as I guess you still need to input the settings on the lens.

I'm going to carry on using the WLF as my standard finder, but I think a prism would be handy for taking portraits. Tbh I'm not even sure if I will try some portraits yet as the idea terrifies me haha.

Not sure whether I'll use a flash yet... I've got no freaking clue how to use a flash with a totally manual camera, so I guess that's something else to figure out later!

Yeah you'll still need to transfer the settings to a lens so you might as well use the meter you're comfortable with.

I think the trick with flash is to dial in with a digi or just rely on latitude.
 
wow £595 it is almost reasonable that considering what digi users would pay
 
So am I right in saying that there are only two unmetered prisms for the RB, the model 1 and model 2? Any ideas what the differences between the two models are, apart from the shape?
Yeah you'll still need to transfer the settings to a lens so you might as well use the meter you're comfortable with.

I think the trick with flash is to dial in with a digi or just rely on latitude.

so my smartphone then :lol:

Is there a difference between model 1 and 2 of the unmetered prisms? From what I can see model 2 allows you to attach a magnifier to the prism, but that's the only difference I've found so far!

I've found a model 1 for £80 and a model 2 for £90 (minus the little rubber cap). Think I might go for the model 2 for the extra tenner in case I want to get a magnifier for it later.

My next question will probably be about the different ground glass screens lol


keh have another link with a price, here. $619 which seems a lot cheaper than I would have expected! Not sure I could get on with that lens though to be honest! lol
 
Which one is the model 2 with the optional magnifier?
 
So am I right in saying that there are only two unmetered prisms for the RB, the model 1 and model 2? Any ideas what the differences between the two models are, apart from the shape?


so my smartphone then :LOL:

Is there a difference between model 1 and 2 of the unmetered prisms? From what I can see model 2 allows you to attach a magnifier to the prism, but that's the only difference I've found so far!

I've found a model 1 for £80 and a model 2 for £90 (minus the little rubber cap). Think I might go for the model 2 for the extra tenner in case I want to get a magnifier for it later.

My next question will probably be about the different ground glass screens lol



keh have another link with a price, here. $619 which seems a lot cheaper than I would have expected! Not sure I could get on with that lens though to be honest! lol

I don't know much about them tbh. But a magnifier is probably worth it for wide open portraits.

GG will be what ever one you have in place currently.
 
Ah I see, I have the model 1.
yes magnifier could be a good option.
 
I'm going to carry on using the WLF as my standard finder, but I think a prism would be handy for taking portraits. Tbh I'm not even sure if I will try some portraits yet as the idea terrifies me haha.

If the Mamiya prisms are anything like the Bronica prisms, you'll lose quite a bit of light and it will be much harder to focus. Maybe the Mamiyas are better, but I thought I'd throw that out there. My prism finder sits totally unused unless I absolutely require eye-level viewing, which is almost never.

Not sure whether I'll use a flash yet... I've got no freaking clue how to use a flash with a totally manual camera, so I guess that's something else to figure out later!

Pick up a flash gun with auto-thyristor capability, which was the precursor to TTL flash, such as the Vivitar 283 or 285. I have the Vivitar 285—it has four auto modes and manual control. It's pretty easy to use. I just set the flash to the auto setting that corresponds to the aperture I've set on the camera.

I don't use the flash that much, mostly at Christmas, but it works well enough, especially with leaf-shutter lenses:



 
Fisheyes are good fun for a while but most people I know (and I was the same) get them out of curiosity but move them on after a while as they are expensive and very limited in application. They are perfect for the obligatory skateboard and gig photos though, and I once had a lot of fun with my kids at a fairground with mine. But that was a Nikon one for 35mm - not sure you'd want to be swinging your RB around in those kind of circumstances.

If you're tempted, how about one of these instead: http://www.ffordes.com/product/15041615125331 You could probably sell it on for the same money again later. I had the older f3.5 version which had built-in filters, which was a nice feature.
 
I've only seen one for sale once, it was expensive!

Though I found one with a moments search, £595. I'm sure last one I seen was twice that.
Bear in mind though that the one linked to above comes from the Nicholas Camera Company... if that doesn't ring a bell then try googling the name and see how many complaints threads you find.
 
Bear in mind though that the one linked to above comes from the Nicholas Camera Company... if that doesn't ring a bell then try googling the name and see how many complaints threads you find.

Okay, might not buy from him!
 
I think u can get bokeh with the fisheye, which is harder on 35mm

flash u use pc sync cord and manual flash. And either a flash meter or polaroid or digital
 
If the Mamiya prisms are anything like the Bronica prisms, you'll lose quite a bit of light and it will be much harder to focus. Maybe the Mamiyas are better, but I thought I'd throw that out there. My prism finder sits totally unused unless I absolutely require eye-level viewing, which is almost never.



Pick up a flash gun with auto-thyristor capability, which was the precursor to TTL flash, such as the Vivitar 283 or 285. I have the Vivitar 285—it has four auto modes and manual control. It's pretty easy to use. I just set the flash to the auto setting that corresponds to the aperture I've set on the camera.

I don't use the flash that much, mostly at Christmas, but it works well enough, especially with leaf-shutter lenses:




Hmm I never thought about how much light would be lost through the prism, I guess the upside is though that you can use it in bright conditions without having to worry about covering any gaps in the wlf so you can see the screen easier. I'll have to take the prism out and compare it to see if it makes much difference. I think the ability to shoot at eye level will make it a worthwhile thing to have, even if I use the wlf 95% of the time.

Thanks for the info on the flash, it's an area which confuses the heck out of me, although I have learned a fair bit in the last few days!
 
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I can use my RZ67 at eye level - I use the flip up magnifier to focus, and it's already at eye level if I want to make the exposure from that height.
 
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