Raw to Jpeg

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Question/Help! Converting eg Nikon raw to jpeg, does it matter which software you use? I use faststone cos it's free and simple for me - I've read posts where people say software a, b or c is best.
I'm thinking surely if you convert raw to jpeg that's it!!!! am I right?
 
I would think so myself. I can't speak for most other programmes, but once I've finished tinkering in Capture One Express I just export as a JPEG.
 
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I prefer to think of a raw file as the ingredients to a dish...................the post processing (raw convertor) software takes the unprocessed ingredients and turns them into the final 'plate of food'.

As you may appreciate there are variations on which software will handle the ingredients to taste (yours or a 3rd party viewer?).

Now, the likes of Faststone will have their default settings to create the jpeg, as will almost all such software programs.

The advantage to the photographer in shooting raw is that using the likes of DxO PL, Capture 1, LR & photoshop, Affinity Photo etc is that you can exercise more control by your own choosing ;)

So, simply answer is yes.............Faststone will create the jpeg. But IMO why shoot raw if you are content with doing it that way, as you might as well set the camera to raw & jpeg......or maybe even only jpeg :thinking:
 
If you are not intending to edit the Raw file and gain the huge advantages then why capture in Raw. Interestingly when I complete my editing, I save as TIFF as Jpeg is a lossy format. If I wish to print I use the TIFF file but if I need a JPEG for projection or web, I export a JPEG for each occasion and do not permanently store the JPEGs.

Dave
 
I prefer to think of a raw file as the ingredients to a dish...................the post processing (raw convertor) software takes the unprocessed ingredients and turns them into the final 'plate of food'.

As you may appreciate there are variations on which software will handle the ingredients to taste (yours or a 3rd party viewer?).

Now, the likes of Faststone will have their default settings to create the jpeg, as will almost all such software programs.

The advantage to the photographer in shooting raw is that using the likes of DxO PL, Capture 1, LR & photoshop, Affinity Photo etc is that you can exercise more control by your own choosing ;)

So, simply answer is yes.............Faststone will create the jpeg. But IMO why shoot raw if you are content with doing it that way, as you might as well set the camera to raw & jpeg......or maybe even only jpeg :thinking:
Many thanks Box Brownie - I like the recipe analogy!
So basically Faststone is not recommended, and others will do a better job - I'll trial some of the software you have suggested
 
If you are not intending to edit the Raw file and gain the huge advantages then why capture in Raw. Interestingly when I complete my editing, I save as TIFF as Jpeg is a lossy format. If I wish to print I use the TIFF file but if I need a JPEG for projection or web, I export a JPEG for each occasion and do not permanently store the JPEGs.

Dave
Hi Dave - I edit the raw file before converting but don't see any difference - I'll try other software as has been suggested
 
Question/Help! Converting eg Nikon raw to jpeg, does it matter which software you use? I use faststone cos it's free and simple for me - I've read posts where people say software a, b or c is best.
I'm thinking surely if you convert raw to jpeg that's it!!!! am I right?
Yes, it matters, at least if you don't want to do a lot of fiddling afterwards. Take a raw image and run it through several different converters with the default settings, and you'll see significant differences in (e.g.) how the colours turn out. One reason for this is that the various companies have generated different colour profiles for a given camera independently, so the results don't quite match, and some just use a generic profile. Another reason is that many converters ignore in-camera settings like Nikon's Picture Controls. There may be other differences in the choice of defaults, and in the algorithms used for things like highlight recovery and noise reduction.

If you want a converter that gives you default results that match the in-camera jpegs quite closely and both honours and allows you to change the Picture Control settings, take a look at Nikon's own free NX Studio package. This is very useful to have as a 'reference' converter. It can export to either tiff or jpeg.
Another decent free option is the Express version of Capture One:
 
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Yes, it matters, at least if you don't want to do a lot of fiddling afterwards. Take a raw image and run it through several different converters with the default settings, and you'll see significant differences in (e.g.) how the colours turn out. One reason for this is that the various companies have generated different colour profiles for a given camera independently, so the results don't quite match, and some just use a generic profile. Another reason is that many converters ignore in-camera settings like Nikon's Picture Controls. There may be other differences in the choice of defaults, and in the algorithms used for things like highlight recovery and noise reduction.

If you want a converter that gives you default results that match the in-camera jpegs quite closely and both honours and allows you to change the Picture Control settings, take a look at Nikon's own free NX Studio package. This is very useful to have as a 'reference' converter. It can export to either tiff or jpeg.
Another decent free option is the Express version of Capture One:
Many thanks Retune will give it a try - that's tonight sorted!!!
 
If you want a converter that gives you default results that match the in-camera jpegs quite closely and both honours and allows you to change the Picture Control settings, take a look at Nikon's own free NX Studio package. This is very useful to have as a 'reference' converter. It can export to either tiff or jpeg.
:plus1:

Not only will the OEM software know/apply the camera's picture settings by default; sometimes the OEM software is best for other reasons as well... when it comes to raw conversion, only the Nikon software truly knows your Nikon camera's sensor output. All other software has had to reverse engineer the raw files for their default raw conversion (display).
I've seen cases where third party software caused things like color casts with shadow recovery, and many cases where the OEM software did better with ISO noise/detail.

Personally, I record raw+jpeg and sometimes I don't even bother with the processing at all.
 
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Yes, it matters, at least if you don't want to do a lot of fiddling afterwards. Take a raw image and run it through several different converters with the default settings, and you'll see significant differences in (e.g.) how the colours turn out. One reason for this is that the various companies have generated different colour profiles for a given camera independently, so the results don't quite match, and some just use a generic profile. Another reason is that many converters ignore in-camera settings like Nikon's Picture Controls. There may be other differences in the choice of defaults, and in the algorithms used for things like highlight recovery and noise reduction.
But you could also produce a calibrated profile which ensures you have the correct colours. I have done this for each of my cameras using the X-Rite Colour Checker with the Adobe Labs software. I know this is over the top for most people but at least I start with correct colors before I fiddle with them. Different cameras of the same model produces different colours so it is not true that the JPEG is necessarily correct. All the sensor are slightly different so calibration is the only way to go for accuracy. I know a wedding photographer who uses two identical Nikon DSLR's with different lenses to avoid lens changes during the wedding. He had to calibrate both or the colours were different from each camera and people notice the colour of clothing at weddings or fashion shoots.

Dave
 
But you could also produce a calibrated profile which ensures you have the correct colours. I have done this for each of my cameras using the X-Rite Colour Checker with the Adobe Labs software. I know this is over the top for most people but at least I start with correct colors before I fiddle with them. Different cameras of the same model produces different colours so it is not true that the JPEG is necessarily correct. All the sensor are slightly different so calibration is the only way to go for accuracy. I know a wedding photographer who uses two identical Nikon DSLR's with different lenses to avoid lens changes during the wedding. He had to calibrate both or the colours were different from each camera and people notice the colour of clothing at weddings or fashion shoots.

Dave
I think if you're prepared to put the extra work in to produce an individually calibrated workflow, you can use any raw converter you like that supports custom profiles. And if you are hardcore, I suppose you'll want to shoot a colour test target on-site to adjust for the specific lighting conditions of your shoot (which must make a bigger difference than any sample variation between cameras of the same model). But I've generally been pleased with Nikon's in-camera jpeg rendering, or a NEF processed with their own converter, and rather less pleased with the output from Adobe's and most other third party converters with their defaults and standard profiles. Things may have improved since the days of CS6, of course (I don't have CC).
 
Unfortunately. not all Raw Converters allow you to readily use a bespoke profile but LR Classic does which I use. Yes I do use my colour checker as a test target for a few shoots (usually where the lighting can vary or the colour critical. I did this recently when photographing a young lady in a genuine Edwardian dress.

You are right that when I first made comparison with a colleague who then a Nikon 800D; I had a Canon 5D4. When we calibrated both cameras it was clear that the Nikon was not far out just slightly yellowy but the Canon was quite a long way out being quite red. The images from both cameras when calibrated were almost identical. The best Adobe profile for canon was Camera standard which Canon recommended.

Dave
 
Question/Help! Converting eg Nikon raw to jpeg, does it matter which software you use? I use faststone cos it's free and simple for me - I've read posts where people say software a, b or c is best.
I'm thinking surely if you convert raw to jpeg that's it!!!! am I right?


Each camera manufacturer will have their own raw file formats for their own cameras, thus a Nikon's raw format is not the same as a Canon's raw format. Nikon use its own raw format which is either NEF or NRW, while Canon use either CRW, CR2, or CR3, while Sony use ARW, SRF, or SR2, while Pentax use..... You get the idea?

Thus each camera maker will issue their own software on a CD-ROM with the camera, or if you bought it second hand and it's missing the CD-ROM, then you can download the software from the camera maker's own website. Each of the camera maker's own software will convert or export their own raw format into an universal standard format (i.e.: JPEG).

However software companies, specially those in the fields of graphic design, photography, etc., like Adobe etc, does have their own application software (i.e.: Lightroom) that can convert any camera maker's raw files into universal standard formats.

But as long as those software are updated when the camera makers release new cameras with new raw formats.

Thus: It does more or less kind of matter which software you use, in some ways.

When it comes to the camera maker's own software, it does matter. You can't use Nikon's own software to process Canon's raw format.

But when it comes to software companies' own software (i.e.: Adobe or in your case, Faststone), it does not matter, as long as it is updated and can support the latest format.

What matters is your budget, skills, experience, confident in yourself, self-doubt in yourself, how you handle the workload, your stress levels, your pressure, etc., etc.

For example: In your case, you're happy with Faststone because it's free and simple for you,. In my case, I use Adobe Lightroom, but only because I pay for Adobe's Creative Cloud All Apps package. So it does not matter as long as you're happy with the software you use.

If you're happy with Faststone, then stick with it, because it works for you. Ignore other people suggesting a different software, because it works for them.

It's like asking "does it matter which car I should buy?" then someone suggest to you, a Ferrari is better, not realising that you're a family man with two children and a dog, so a Ferrari is not much of a help for you.

Remember: A camera manufacturer's own application software does matter, but any other software company's own application software does not matter as long as they are updated to support any raw formats. What matters is your budget and how you cope with the software.

Hope it helps?
 
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It's sounds to me like you don't really understand the benefit of raw or why you are actually shooting in that format.

If you're just converting to jpg from a raw file then just shoot jpg to start with.

If you want to reap the benefits of the raw image then yes there are differences in raw processors. Each processor will have their own recipes for converting the raw file and each will have different tools for getting the most out of the image.

Is there a best one. Probably not. Each has their pros and cons and it really is down to the user as to which they prefer.
 
In theory, the manufacturers own software will render the Jpeg most accurately to what you are seeing on the back of the camera, as only they know how to apply what the Picture Style/Control and White Balance was set to correctly. Third party software tried to get close, with varying degrees of success. About 10+ years ago I tried the Nikon software compared to Adobe Camera Raw, and there was a big difference on what could be done to the RAW file, in Nikon's favour. But, I just couldn't get on with their user interface. ACR has improved a lot since then, and gives a lot of additional editing options.

If I were just converting RAW files with no changes, I would use the Nikon software. And that also has the benefit of being free. ;) You could tweak the colours, contrast, etc via the Picture Style/Control in camera, and the Nikon software would apply that to the Jpeg conversion. Not sure changes like that would be picked up by a 3rd party software from a back engineered profile.

Because I edit all the RAW files to some degree, I use ACR or occasionally LR. I have also done the same as Dave Canon above, and created a calibrated profile for my cameras. Mainly to get the most natural colours out of the camera to start with, not affected by each manufacturers 'colour science', and use that as a processing starting point. And that additionally has the benefit of all my cameras (potentially 3 different brands and 6 different camera models) giving pretty much the same replication of a scene. :)
 
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