Question: How Often Do You Use Auto ISO?

monkeyleader

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Nigel
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Morning all,

Another interesting game yesterday (Fulham v Hull) in regards to changing light conditions - not only the usual harsh band of shadow around 20% of the pitch but with plenty of clouds (And rather windy) meant even in one spot the light was changing (up to 6 stops of light in the 6 yard box alone) ... While it saves on the fingers (frantically changing settings) I'm rarely want exposure during a day game to be spot on - I normally want to dial at least half a stop one way or another ... AFAIK (and hopefully someone can show me the error of my ways) you cannot dial in exposure compensation with auto-iso ... I find when nailing exposure in the bright areas .. it's too bright ... if I was doing this manually I'd be dialling back a little ...

Any other tips for those using Auto-ISO? Metering mode for example?

cheers,

Nigel
 
If you get yourself a 1Dx, dialling in exposure comp is exactly what you can do on auto ISO.

I had exactly the same conditions as you yesterday and have had for a fair few games recently. I set up both my 1Dx's with + 2/3, +1 1/3, and +2 EC on the C1, C2 and C3 settings. These seem to cover all the varying light conditions across the pitch when it's sunny in one part and shade in another. It works particularly well when the players are in the shade, but there is a bright background of spectators in the sun.

All I do is switch the C setting quickly depending on where I am shooting. Takes a bit of practice though, but once you get used to it, exposure is something that is taken care of pretty well without thinking about.
 
I've assigned the MFn button to cycle between C1 C2 and C3. When I decide where I'm sitting, I set up the EC so that C1 covers the left hand side of the pitch and whatever conditions that's in, C2 for straight on shots and then C3 for the right hand side conditions. Sometimes, there's not much difference between C2 and either C1 and C3 but I like to keep to the logic. A bit of practice is all it takes but seems quite natural to me now
 
I guess where this may fall down is when the conditions are dynamic .. mostly that 18 yard box like yesterday when fast moving clouds can take things all over the place ... - thanks for your advice ... mucho appreciated ..
 
How about a quick write up on how to set it?
 
Hi all, I really like that idea but unfortunately I own a D3 which as far as I know doesn't have that function and yes I do struggle with the same problem.

Cheers kev
 
Just got a D7000 upgrading from D50 so first time with this function and have user 1 set with this up to 6400 iso and Min shutter 2000 still learning with it but so far so good, shooting kids footy under 9s and under 15s
 
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