Question about Macro lenses and hoods

Chris L

Chris L

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Christian
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I've just started using a Canon 100 f/2.8 Macro and have so far always used it with the recommended hood.

My question is, does fitting the hood when shooting at macro distances cut down on the amount a light hitting the subject?

Thanks in advance
 
I think the only light cut out by the correct lens hood is unwanted light.
 
All a lens hood does is cut down the light you don't really need - that coming from the sides which can hit the front lens element causing flare and generally turning your shots to rat poo.

I always use a lens hood with all my lenses including my 180 macro. You shouldn't have any problems at all with the working distance that the 100mm macro gives you anyway. :)
 
Thanks guys. I'm just struggling to get a grip on the fact I can be shooting at between 1/250th and 1/400th+ when standing ~ 3 ft. from a subject but when I go in close for a macro shot I'm down to 1/80th or even 1/25th. I've been offered a straight swap of a 85 f/1.8 for a 60 f/2.8 Macro. As I understand things when shooting handheld the lowest shutter speed is to a large extent dictated by the focal length used. Would the 60 f/2.8 give me better results when handheld or would the shorter working distance mean I end up cutting down on more of the light reaching the subject?

I maybe should have warned you I am a total Macro noob :D
 
Chris L said:
Thanks guys. I'm just struggling to get a grip on the fact I can be shooting at between 1/250th and 1/400th+ when standing ~ 3 ft. from a subject but when I go in close for a macro shot I'm down to 1/80th or even 1/25th. I've been offered a straight swap of a 85 f/1.8 for a 60 f/2.8 Macro. As I understand things when shooting handheld the lowest shutter speed is to a large extent dictated by the focal length used. Would the 60 f/2.8 give me better results when handheld or would the shorter working distance mean I end up cutting down on more of the light reaching the subject?

I maybe should have warned you I am a total Macro noob :D
Click to expand...

Don't forget that your meter reads from the whole screen and assess all the tones when it 'decides' on exposure. Some of those tones will be actually be lighter (brighter) than your subject. As you move in closer to your subject you eliminate more of those surrounding tones, so although the shutter speed may well go lower, you're getting a far more accurate exposure.

Generally speaking the longer the focal length of a macro lens the better, as it gives you a far better working distance from your critters so there's less chance of spooking 'em.

Large aperture macro lenses are useful for focusing as they admit more light to your viewfinder, but depth of field is zippo at macro distances so you really need to take the shot well stopped down.

Hope that helps. :)
 
Thanks for that CT. It does explain why I was going from 1/8000th when snapping Brodsworth Hall (made from light coloured stone) down to 1/25~80th trying to snap a seriously quick ladybird crawling over some foliage in a raised flowerbed. How do you get around that issue? Do you use a tripod or ring flash or both depending on situation?
 
I always use a tripod for macro but I know my hand holding is crap at those distances. :gag:

I just use the 580EX for macro but you really need the extension cord to get the flash forward from the hot shoe.
 
Chris - When you set the focus ring to 1:1 you lose about 1 stop.
 
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