Project Thread: Home Made C41 Temperature Bath

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Carl Hall

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Following on from my thread about C41 processing temperature a few weeks ago, I am planning on making my own temperature bath to put bottles and a developing tank inside. Like everyone else, I’ve previously used a washing up basin with warm water inside, but it’s a total pain in the ass keeping the water at the right temperature and the bottles bob about all over the place.

I’m not sure a proper “build thread” is really needed as it’s such a simple thing to make, but I wanted to get input first and also I figured other people might find it useful if they plan to do their own C41 too.

Background:

I develop my own black and white all the time, and have done C41 in the past. I currently send my film to UK Film Lab, who do an excellent job, but charge about £10 a roll for their service. I’ve recently returned from holiday with 12 rolls of film to develop, and rather than sending the £120 to UKFL, I thought I could make my own temperature bath and then I won’t have to pay any developing costs in the future aside from the occasional C41 kit. I would also like to have the photos pretty quick, and a ten day turnaround is less than ideal.

Requirements:

The bath must:
· Be able to maintain a constant temperature of 38 degrees centigrade +/- 1 degree
· Hold four 1L glass bottles and 1 Paterson Super System 4 tank
· Have the ability to empty the tank via a tap on the side so that I don’t have to tip it out to empty and make a mess everywhere
· Not electrocute me!

And ideally:
· Cost around £100-£120 to make from scratch
· Be self-contained within the euro container so that all the wires and bits fit inside so it can be packed away cleanly and quickly.

Plan:

My current plan is quite simple: A 20L euro container with a Novatronic water heater (basically like a fish tank heater but with a slightly higher maximum temperature) at one end, and a small fish tank pump at the other end to circulate the water and keep the temperature even throughout the entire container. At the other sides there will be holders for four glass bottles which will be held securely against the side to stop them bobbing about and hitting into each other etc. In the middle there will be a fifth holder which will hold the actual developing tank securely in place. If I was using 500ml bottles then standard bicycle bottle holders would be perfect and could easily be screwed to the sides, but I don’t think 1L bottles will fit so I’ll have to think of another way to hold them. I also need to think of a way to hold the developing tank.

I will be making this to hold 1 litre chemical bottles and a Super System 4 Paterson tank, because I want to be able to do 4x5 sheets on occasion, or the ability to do more than one 120 roll at a time.

This is the Novatronic heater that I’m planning on using
http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/nova-water-heater-novatronic/p784

And these are the bottles. They’re not the cheapest around but the postage cost of glass bottles is quite high elsewhere and I’ll be getting the heater from Firstcall anyway!
http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/firstcall-chemical-storage-bottle-glass-1-litre/p866

and the 20L container will be similar to this one, once I find a place that’s reasonably priced and doesn’t have stupid massive holes for handles
http://www.screwfix.com/p/20ltr-euro-container-400-x-300-x-220mm/47126

I don’t think the pump is too important as long as it keeps the water moving around, so I think a cheap one like this would suit
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Submersibl...&qid=1464177601&sr=8-3&keywords=aquarium+pump

I’ve started doing a bit of CAD modelling of the whole set up, but before I get to a stage where I can show any images I want to gather thoughts from knowledgeable and helpful F&C members, instead of making it and then finding out I could have done something a different/better way.
 
Good luck with the build Carl, I'm looking forward to seeing your results from New York too!

Looking at your idea, like you say it sounds pretty straightforward. The only alternatives I can suggest will be to look at places like Poundland for large plastic boxes rather than the Euro Container you've linked to;

http://www.poundland.co.uk/home-and-pet/around-the-home/storage/storage-box-and-lid-14-litre

This is the first one I saw on their website. It's not 20 litres but gives you an idea.

As for holding the bottles in place, you could just get two sheets of relatively thin acrylic that's the same size as the inner walls of the container. Cut 4 circles out of the first piece that are the same diameter as the lower section of the glass bottles and a central hole that matches the lower section of the System 4 Tank;

Lower Section.jpg

This piece of acrylic an then be bonded to the walls of the container using silicone. You the get your second piece of acrylic and cut 4 smaller holes to match the neck size of the glass bottles and a central hole for the Paterson tank;

Upper Section.jpg
This piece can be dropped in place over the bottles/tank once they're in the container to hold them in place. Might be worth adding some weight to this piece to hold the bottles/tank down.

Good luck mate :0)
 
Hi Carl - Good to see this project progressing. One thing you're missing is room for the wash water, which also needs to be kept at the development temperature. My CPP3 has six slots for 1 litre bottles, two of which I use for the water, but it would be more convenient to have a couple extra. My Jobo tanks use 330ml (or something close to that), and the 2 litres is enough for a processing run if I top them up a little during the cycle. You're going to need to factor in more for the bigger, non-rotating tanks.
 
Sounds like a simple but excellent idea. Make me one as well.:D
 
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You've got me looking at alternatives to a big tank of water now! Have you thought about single heating elements that each bottle could sit in/on? Looking around, there are Kapton heater elements that are designed for using on 3D printers to make a heated bed. These generally run off 12v laptop power supplies and look to generate a fair bit of heat in a very thin circuit.

I was thinking about a tube that each glass bottle could drop into with the Kapton element in the base to heat them. There would need to be regulation of the temperature but in theory you could basically have a dry setup (apart from your rinse) with just the 3 glass bottles and the Paterson tank.

I'm not starting another project so over to you ;0)
 
stevelmx5 said:
Good luck with the build Carl, I'm looking forward to seeing your results from New York too!

Looking at your idea, like you say it sounds pretty straightforward. The only alternatives I can suggest will be to look at places like Poundland for large plastic boxes rather than the Euro Container you've linked to;

http://www.poundland.co.uk/home-and-pet/around-the-home/storage/storage-box-and-lid-14-litre

This is the first one I saw on their website. It's not 20 litres but gives you an idea.

As for holding the bottles in place, you could just get two sheets of relatively thin acrylic that's the same size as the inner walls of the container. Cut 4 circles out of the first piece that are the same diameter as the lower section of the glass bottles and a central hole that matches the lower section of the System 4 Tank;

View attachment 65265

This piece of acrylic an then be bonded to the walls of the container using silicone. You the get your second piece of acrylic and cut 4 smaller holes to match the neck size of the glass bottles and a central hole for the Paterson tank;

View attachment 65266
This piece can be dropped in place over the bottles/tank once they're in the container to hold them in place. Might be worth adding some weight to this piece to hold the bottles/tank down.

Good luck mate :0)
Click to expand...

Cheers Steve, I did look at a few plastic boxes before I picked the euro container style, but they tend to be very thin plastic and funny shaped inside, and I think they'd be quite hard to cut and would crack really easily. We use the euro containers for detail parts and finished assemblies at work and they're bomb proof!

I quite like the acrylic idea, I toyed with something similar but I was just thinking of using wood... Acrylic sounds much better and much more 21st century! :D
 
One obvious comment ...you can not stick things to polypropylene.
another is that velcro works just as well under water.
There is no reason that you can not use the tank water as wash water.
 
FujiLove said:
Hi Carl - Good to see this project progressing. One thing you're missing is room for the wash water, which also needs to be kept at the development temperature. My CPP3 has six slots for 1 litre bottles, two of which I use for the water, but it would be more convenient to have a couple extra. My Jobo tanks use 330ml (or something close to that), and the 2 litres is enough for a processing run if I top them up a little during the cycle. You're going to need to factor in more for the bigger, non-rotating tanks.
Click to expand...

Hmm how much do you wash the film? I haven't done it in several months but I thought I just filled it it up once with water and emptied it out! :S I guess if I'm using clean water for the bath each time and the bottles aren't contaminated I could just use the tap on the side to empty a little of the bath water into the tank :D I might have to see if I can fit a couple more bottles in the bath, but I'm not sure there will be a lot of space left after the 4 bottles, dev tank, heater and pump
 
Terrywoodenpic said:
One obvious comment ...you can not stick things to polypropylene.
another is that velcro works just as well under water.
There is no reason that you can not use the tank water as wash water.
Click to expand...

Ahh balls, I didn't know this :S

See this is the kind of useful stuff that makes me glad I made this thread before I started :lol: The velcro sounds like a great idea, not too much effort to pull it out of the water but enough to stop them bobbing about! :D
 
kendo1 said:
Just as a thought about how holding bottles might be done:

https://www.thomassci.com/Laboratory-Supplies/Racks/_/BOTTLE-HOLDERS?q=*

or:

https://www.thomassci.com/Laboratory-Supplies/Racks/_/CENTRIFUGE-BOTTLE-RACK?q=*

which could maybe be made from wire coat hangers, plastic coated would be better.

These products are too expensive for your home build though.
Click to expand...


This is the kind of thing I would have used had I been using smaller 500ml bottles which would have fit in the holders. Your idea of coat hangers is ideal, I wonder if I can bend one to make holders like this for the bigger bottles and possibly the dev tank too!

swervetitaniumcage.jpg
 
stevelmx5 said:
You've got me looking at alternatives to a big tank of water now! Have you thought about single heating elements that each bottle could sit in/on? Looking around, there are Kapton heater elements that are designed for using on 3D printers to make a heated bed. These generally run off 12v laptop power supplies and look to generate a fair bit of heat in a very thin circuit.

I was thinking about a tube that each glass bottle could drop into with the Kapton element in the base to heat them. There would need to be regulation of the temperature but in theory you could basically have a dry setup (apart from your rinse) with just the 3 glass bottles and the Paterson tank.

I'm not starting another project so over to you ;0)
Click to expand...

Wow, that's quite a project there isn't it :D :lol: Perhaps that can be the mkII version! Ideally I want to keep it pretty simple at the moment; I tend to make everything overly complicated and then wonder why things dont work :lol:
 
Carl Hall said:
This is the kind of thing I would have used had I been using smaller 500ml bottles which would have fit in the holders. Your idea of coat hangers is ideal, I wonder if I can bend one to make holders like this for the bigger bottles and possibly the dev tank too!

swervetitaniumcage.jpg
Click to expand...


Or you could try with one of the above - try bending one out/wider and then bending the two upper side loops...
 
ChrisR said:
The one above looks a bit like one of those milk bottle holders you used to see on door steps...
Click to expand...

at $30 each, plus postage...
 
stevelmx5 said:
You've got me looking at alternatives to a big tank of water now! Have you thought about single heating elements that each bottle could sit in/on? Looking around, there are Kapton heater elements that are designed for using on 3D printers to make a heated bed. These generally run off 12v laptop power supplies and look to generate a fair bit of heat in a very thin circuit.

I was thinking about a tube that each glass bottle could drop into with the Kapton element in the base to heat them. There would need to be regulation of the temperature but in theory you could basically have a dry setup (apart from your rinse) with just the 3 glass bottles and the Paterson tank.

I'm not starting another project so over to you ;0)
Click to expand...

The only problem then is the thermal gradient in the solution.

Throwing a bit of a curveball here, this may be appropriate for the mk2 or 3 version...

Dispense with a water bath entirely, go with some heat exchanger columns/towers which your bottles slip into. Like this
DSCF6145.JPG


Pros - less chance of spillage, you only need to heat up a few litres of water
Cons - Copper pipe can be spendy...


Oh and to hold the bottles down, weigh them down with glass marbles or put a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the bottle, and another under the water bath.


Yes I'm overcomplicating a relatively simple problem, but where is the fun in simple... :D
 
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robhooley167 said:
The only problem then is the thermal gradient in the solution.

Throwing a bit of a curveball here, this may be appropriate for the mk2 or 3 version...

Dispense with a water bath entirely, go with some heat exchanger columns/towers which your bottles slip into. Like this
DSCF6145.JPG


Pros - less chance of spillage, you only need to heat up a few litres of water
Cons - Copper pipe can be spendy...


Oh and to hold the bottles down, weigh them down with glass marbles or put a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the bottle, and another under the water bath.


Yes I'm overcomplicating a relatively simple problem, but where is the fun in simple... :D
Click to expand...


10 metres of 10mm copper pipe is £21, 8mm pipe is £18

8mm pipe is easily bent into shape just by wrapping it around a former of the right size, 10mm is a wee bit more difficult, but not much.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/wednesbury-microbore-copper-pipe-coil-8mm-x-10m/61031
 
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Carl Hall said:
Hmm how much do you wash the film? I haven't done it in several months but I thought I just filled it it up once with water and emptied it out! :confused: I guess if I'm using clean water for the bath each time and the bottles aren't contaminated I could just use the tap on the side to empty a little of the bath water into the tank :D I might have to see if I can fit a couple more bottles in the bath, but I'm not sure there will be a lot of space left after the 4 bottles, dev tank, heater and pump
Click to expand...

I'm currently using the Rollei Digibase kit with separate bleach and fix. I don't use a stop because I mix a small batch, use it for approximately five films then dump it, so I'm not worried about the dev contaminating the bleach and shortening it's storage life. My routine is:

Pre-warm tank for 5 min (warmed 'dry'. i.e. empty tank rotating in the water bath)
Dev
Bleach
Wash 4 x 30 seconds
Fix
Wash 6 x 30 seconds
Stabiliser (off the processor)

I now use home made 'distilled' water for making the chemicals up and doing the final washes, since I've had issues with water marks. I fill a pan with water from a Brita jug, and boil it hard for five minutes. Leave it to cool overnight then carefully decant it into PET bottles through a coffer filter. This was recommended to me on APUG as an alternative to buying expensive distilled water, and it works a treat.
 
robhooley167 said:
The only problem then is the thermal gradient in the solution.

Throwing a bit of a curveball here, this may be appropriate for the mk2 or 3 version...

Dispense with a water bath entirely, go with some heat exchanger columns/towers which your bottles slip into. Like this
DSCF6145.JPG


Pros - less chance of spillage, you only need to heat up a few litres of water
Cons - Copper pipe can be spendy...


Oh and to hold the bottles down, weigh them down with glass marbles or put a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the bottle, and another under the water bath.


Yes I'm overcomplicating a relatively simple problem, but where is the fun in simple... :D
Click to expand...

Would HMRC come knocking on your door, with questions about illegal stills?

Or, looking at it another way, two ways you can enjoy the products of your bent copper pipe... :D:police:
 
kendo1 said:
Or you could try with one of the above - try bending one out/wider and then bending the two upper side loops...
Click to expand...

Why the hell didn't I think of that? Makes much more sense! My brother has one on his bike that he doesn't use, maybe I can try bending that one to see if it snaps first before I buy one :D

RaglanSurf said:
If you're going to use the water from the crate to wash the film couldn't you attach one of these http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/paterson-force-film-washer-hose-790-p.asp to your pump, so you're saving on water and emptying the crate at the same time?
Click to expand...

That's a good idea I think, I could just stick that on the side of the tank with a tap/valve before it and then it makes washing the film super easy doesn't it!
 
robhooley167 said:
The only problem then is the thermal gradient in the solution.

Throwing a bit of a curveball here, this may be appropriate for the mk2 or 3 version...

Dispense with a water bath entirely, go with some heat exchanger columns/towers which your bottles slip into. Like this
DSCF6145.JPG


Pros - less chance of spillage, you only need to heat up a few litres of water
Cons - Copper pipe can be spendy...


Oh and to hold the bottles down, weigh them down with glass marbles or put a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the bottle, and another under the water bath.


Yes I'm overcomplicating a relatively simple problem, but where is the fun in simple... :D
Click to expand...

Crikey, that looks like something that needs a Kickstarter project and a whole team of people to get going :lol: Looks good though, although I think it might be a bit complicated for me!
 
FujiLove said:
I'm currently using the Rollei Digibase kit with separate bleach and fix. I don't use a stop because I mix a small batch, use it for approximately five films then dump it, so I'm not worried about the dev contaminating the bleach and shortening it's storage life. My routine is:

Pre-warm tank for 5 min (warmed 'dry'. i.e. empty tank rotating in the water bath)
Dev
Bleach
Wash 4 x 30 seconds
Fix
Wash 6 x 30 seconds
Stabiliser (off the processor)

I now use home made 'distilled' water for making the chemicals up and doing the final washes, since I've had issues with water marks. I fill a pan with water from a Brita jug, and boil it hard for five minutes. Leave it to cool overnight then carefully decant it into PET bottles through a coffer filter. This was recommended to me on APUG as an alternative to buying expensive distilled water, and it works a treat.
Click to expand...

Ahh ok, I've only ever used the Tetenal kit and I (kind of) remember the order just being dev, blix, wash and then stab. Do you find that the distilled water makes a big difference with water marks? I've only ever used water straight from the Brita filter (for B&W I mean) and I've not had any issues. Perhaps I'm just lucky with the area that I live in!
 
I take my hat off to you @ Carl Hall for delving into a dedicated C-41 set up;) .........It's not something I'd have the patience, nor the skills to do.

Once you get it all up and running, perhaps you'll PM your postal address so I can send you all my colour films for developing :p:D

In the meantime, I'll continue to "Wing it" and accept my inferiour results:sulk::D
 
Carl Hall said:
Ahh ok, I've only ever used the Tetenal kit and I (kind of) remember the order just being dev, blix, wash and then stab. Do you find that the distilled water makes a big difference with water marks? I've only ever used water straight from the Brita filter (for B&W I mean) and I've not had any issues. Perhaps I'm just lucky with the area that I live in!
Click to expand...

It's a while since I used a blix, but I recall being advised on APUG to use a stop bath followed by a wash with it to prevent carry-over of the developer. Blix is a lot less stable than bleach, so I'd consider doing this if you're re-using the chemicals.

I swapped to using my 'pretend distilled' water because of water marks on B&W negatives, and it's completely cured it. With the stabiliser being the last stage of C41 I'm guessing you would be okay washing with the Brita filtered watered. I'm using the distilled for everything now as it's so easy to make and one less thing to worry about.
 
Asha said:
I take my hat off to you @ Carl Hall for delving into a dedicated C-41 set up;) .........It's not something I'd have the patience, nor the skills to do.

Once you get it all up and running, perhaps you'll PM your postal address so I can send you all my colour films for developing :p:D

In the meantime, I'll continue to "Wing it" and accept my inferiour results:sulk::D
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I have the skills either, I guess we'll find out when I have a finished project or a box of random bits of junk left in the corner in the shed :D
 
The aquarium pump arrived yesterday (thanks Amazon Prime!) and the heater should be here in about an hour or so. I wasn't able to get the bottles from Firstcall as they were sold out, so I'll have to find somewhere else! Ampulla sell them but the postage cost is quite a lot. I remember buying some empty glass bottles from them a couple years ago for my home brew (several crates of which are still in the shed!) and it took a while for delivery too.

I think I've come across a small problem too. The heater is only 150W which will take 4.5-5 hours to heat 20L of water to 38 degrees... I think I'll either have to set the plug up on a timer to come on 4-5 hours before I get home from work, or I could just fill it with warm water from the tap to a few degrees below (say 35 degrees), and then it'll take about 30 minutes to heat up.
 
Carl Hall said:
The aquarium pump arrived yesterday (thanks Amazon Prime!) and the heater should be here in about an hour or so. I wasn't able to get the bottles from Firstcall as they were sold out, so I'll have to find somewhere else! Ampulla sell them but the postage cost is quite a lot. I remember buying some empty glass bottles from them a couple years ago for my home brew (several crates of which are still in the shed!) and it took a while for delivery too.

I think I've come across a small problem too. The heater is only 150W which will take 4.5-5 hours to heat 20L of water to 38 degrees... I think I'll either have to set the plug up on a timer to come on 4-5 hours before I get home from work, or I could just fill it with warm water from the tap to a few degrees below (say 35 degrees), and then it'll take about 30 minutes to heat up.
Click to expand...

Fill it from the hot tap and add cold to get it close to 100F. I do that with the Jobo and it's usually up to temp and stable after ten minutes.
 
Ok today could have gone a bit better! The heater arrived and I put it in the box, filled the box with about 15L of warmish water, and switched the heater on. After a few minutes I checked the temperature and it was no higher, so I turned it up a bit more. Checked again and no difference, so turned it up a bit more again. Kept doing this until I had reached the max temp on the dial, but the temperature in the box just wouldn't budge past 32 degrees, even after an hour or more waiting.

I rang Nova and spoke to one of their tech guys, who said that it was likely because the box that I was using wasn't closed, so it couldn't heat it any higher. I did think this could be the reason, but the maximum advertised temperature of the heater is 44 degrees, so 12 degrees less didn't seem right. All in all it's a pretty pointless item I think; If the box was closed and heated to 38 degrees, the temperature would drop as soon as you opened it to do anything with the bottles, in which case you may as well not have it in there and just use hot/cold water to regulate the temperature!

Ahh well, I've seen some things about people hacking aquarium heaters so that they're always on and then using separate thermostats to turn them off and on to control the temperature. Maybe I'll try that, but first I'm going to cut some polystyrene sheets to fit in the gaps in the outside of the box, to see if that makes any difference.
 
Carl Hall said:
Ok today could have gone a bit better! The heater arrived and I put it in the box, filled the box with about 15L of warmish water, and switched the heater on. After a few minutes I checked the temperature and it was no higher, so I turned it up a bit more. Checked again and no difference, so turned it up a bit more again. Kept doing this until I had reached the max temp on the dial, but the temperature in the box just wouldn't budge past 32 degrees, even after an hour or more waiting.

I rang Nova and spoke to one of their tech guys, who said that it was likely because the box that I was using wasn't closed, so it couldn't heat it any higher. I did think this could be the reason, but the maximum advertised temperature of the heater is 44 degrees, so 12 degrees less didn't seem right. All in all it's a pretty pointless item I think; If the box was closed and heated to 38 degrees, the temperature would drop as soon as you opened it to do anything with the bottles, in which case you may as well not have it in there and just use hot/cold water to regulate the temperature!

Ahh well, I've seen some things about people hacking aquarium heaters so that they're always on and then using separate thermostats to turn them off and on to control the temperature. Maybe I'll try that, but first I'm going to cut some polystyrene sheets to fit in the gaps in the outside of the box, to see if that makes any difference.
Click to expand...

Damn it. I wonder if you're losing as much heat through the walls of the thin plastic as the heater is generating? Probably why some people use those insulated picnic coolers. You could try a quick insulation test and see if this helps (a duvet, or something!) If it does, then lagging the sides and base with a load of polystyrene could do the trick. Did you try filling it with water at 100F and seeing if the heater could maintain the temperature?
 
water baths always lose heat, that is why they are always relatively large.
the larger the better for stability. I have never seen a commercial one that was lagged, as ease of use and ease of cleaning come higher in the list of importance.
the surface area of exposed water is is a big heat loss. the greater the area you can keep covered the better.
A hot water coil in the bottom of the tank might be quicker and better, it would easily made up from micro bore.
Or you might be able to find an old kodak 3 gallon tank immersion heater. That was capable of boiling the contents... I know, because a ruined a new batch of developer that way.
 
Carl Hall said:
Why the hell didn't I think of that? Makes much more sense! My brother has one on his bike that he doesn't use, maybe I can try bending that one to see if it snaps first before I buy one :D
Click to expand...

If it's Aluminium, it'll need some heat treatment to anneal (?) it to reduce the chance of it simply breaking. Something about soap blackening sort of rings a bell (for the correct temperature.)
 
Run an eBay search for 'bucket water heater'. They look like a much more powerful option.
 
I tried wrapping the box with some silver lined bubble wrap insulation that I had left over from insulating the back of my van (I think it's stuff that you're meant to insulate behind radiators with!), and put a piece over the top with a bit of wood on top to hold it closed. The temperature did rise a little bit but it couldn't get past 34-35 degrees, even after about half an hour sitting. I ended up topping the box up with hot water to get it to 38 degrees, and the heater did stop it from dropping so fast when I was developing a couple of rolls.

I think what I'm going to end up doing is filling it with warm water and then using the occasional dash of water from the kettle if the temperature drops at all. I'll cut a hole and fit a pipe to the side at the right level so that if I pour water in, some drains out into the sink to stop it from overflowing (I'm sure that someone on here had that idea a while back but I can't remember who!)
 
Nod said:
If it's Aluminium, it'll need some heat treatment to anneal (?) it to reduce the chance of it simply breaking. Something about soap blackening sort of rings a bell (for the correct temperature.)
Click to expand...

Yeah that's a good idea; If I get an ally one then I'll use the ovens at work to anneal it for a few hours, although they've ripped the old workshop out that I used to work in and I'm not sure where the oven is now!
 
Carl Hall said:
Holy hell! a 3kW heater would sure heat the bucket up to 38 degrees with no problem :LOL: I guess I'd have to have a thermostat of some kind to control the heater too!
Click to expand...

I didn't actually notice it was 3kW...You could stick that in the bath and run twenty films at once! :)

The ones I looked at had a built in stat.
 
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