Processing Motorsport Shots

Fireproof Creative

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Jonny
Edit My Images
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"how should I process my images?"

I keep seeing this question crop up in here, and I keep seeing people on Flickr who should be asking this question. The simple answer is...."to give you the best image possible"...and to do that..."you have to use your eyes".

:D I'm not saying mine are perfect, nor do I believe I am even remotely close to being an accomplished photographer, but some people seem to really struggle with this so I thought I might try and offer some advice to beginners. I've been using imaging software a lot longer than a camera so hopefully I can offer at least one or two tips worth knowing...

I shoot canon so I cant comment on Nikon software but what ever you do, DO NOT USE CANON'S DPP TO PROCESS YOUR IMAGES its terrible, no really its the worst thing I've ever used..you would be better off with MS paint. Its fit for reviewing your images that's it (maybe a straight file conversion as well).

I've only used Lightroom, Photoshop and Camera raw - if anyone has experience of other stuff that's worth using please add to the discussion :) this is based on my experience using the Adobe stuff..

1. First things first, don't waste your time trying to fix something that is beyond repair. No amount of processing is going to make a horrifically exposed, noisy, blurry shot better. Shooting in Raw gives you a wider margin for error, Jpeg means you need to pretty much get it spot on in camera, it is stripped of a large portion of image information. Think 128k MP3 vs CD (or vinyl if you still remember what that is) - when you start trying to adjust things on a Jpeg image you can very easily introduce noise and artefacts (The horrible patchy blocks and jagged lines) much more so than with a RAW file. If you are going to spend time processing an image, make sure it is on your best ones.

2. Before processing your image - decide how big you want the result to be i.e an A3 Print or an 800px wide image for a forum. This matters because IMHO you should process for each output scenario separately, to be safe work as large as you can because shrinking is fine, enlarging is a no no. A less well produced image can look fine at screen resolution i.e 1024 x whatever - but can look absolutely horrendous any larger. You should always process your images at 100% zoom or occasionally 100%+ at your desired final output size (i.e if you are planing for a 1024px final image - process at 1024px). This is probably obvious to most, but if you are looking at a smaller representation of your actual image then you cannot see exactly what your changes are doing.

3. A lot of people batch process their images using pre-sets - that's fine, this probably isn't for you. I much prefer to manually scan all my photos first and rate the good ones then move to individually process the ones I want to use. Not much good for a PRO trying to hit a deadline but to most of us amateurs time is not so much of an issue. Light and conditions change throughout a shoot, sometimes subtlety, sometimes dramatically - at any rate, more than I'd like to let a one size fits all auto adjustment churn through my images, just my opinion :D.

4. Sharpening and noise reduction are not your friends. You must be very very careful with these, a lot of people seem to be really heavy handed with these sliders in particular. If you work at 100% and use your eyes to see exactly when you go too far and get mushy images from NR or nasty jagged lines from sharpening. Always do both of these AFTER you have applied any colour, exposure or any other image adjustment. This prevents you from adding noise and issues in the colour adjust stage

force India by Fireproof_Creative, on Flickr

^this is the kind of thing I keep seeing on Flickr - I'm using one of my own images for this, looks pretty average, colours aren't great, processing looks a little severe but its passable at this size. Now look at the bigger version below and zoom to full,

Here - its Big

if you've got an LCD you can probably see how crap it looks - if you have a CRT maybe not. Monitors do make a massive difference to how your images look.

You can see a lot of grain, colour banding, blown highlights and the dreaded Jaggies from over sharpening - all from editing at too small a size and not being able to see exactly what is happening.

5. Experimental processing rarely works, don't get me wrong its fun to mess around and sometimes it can work. Most of the time however, messing with the exposure and shadow/highlight sliders too much ends up resulting in a nasty faux HDR effect that IMO looks crap when its done properly on purpose. The clarity slider (I think it mimics midtone contrast) is often hammered too much as well - resulting in an effect that looks like every colour region on your image has a black outline. Unless you have a specific reason for using a filter effect try and avoid it - they seldom make crap pictures good but can very occassionaly make good pictures great.

7. Aggressive enlargements or crops tend not to work, especially for the screen. If you are trying to push your enlargements past 100% of original, when you were too far away or your lens didn't give you enough reach be very careful - even Photoshop, in all its expensive glory, re-samples images shockingly badly. Try to keep your image at or below 100% ratio i.e if you have a 3MP image after cropping don't try and upscale that to 5MP - pixels start to show and the noise and jaggies appear.

How I would Process

First I would shoot RAW, primarily because I am not good enough to get everything right every-time or even half the time.

OK so here's my Image straight out of camera - shot in raw

sutil original by Fireproof_Creative, on Flickr

Original Jpeg Conversion

If you have a look at the full size version, its a little soft, there's not a lot of detail in the whites - there's a bit of noise/grain (its marginal i'm using FF so it should be well controlled). The composition isn't great, but I was using a teleconverter so only had centre point AF available. There's also a little vignetting.

That said, there is plenty of detail in the shot and there's minimal blur from shake (high shutter noted), this should work as a crop.


Sutil standard by Fireproof_Creative, on Flickr

(no full size on this one Ill save that for the finale)

So I've cropped in on this 3x2 - I have been working at max res (which for this crop is 3438 x 2292) as you can always make it smaller for the screen but cant go the other way. Processed in Adobe Camera Raw (see below for screen dump of alterations) clipped the shadows a touch but looks fine to my eyes :)

Camera raw by Fireproof_Creative, on Flickr


sharpening by Fireproof_Creative, on Flickr

^See sharpening and noise reduction settings, looks pretty aggressive doesn't it. If you work at 100% you can see exactly what effect the changes have.

Here's the final image with the original link as well so you can see it properly. I have pushed this as far as I could for the purpose of a demonstration, I probably wouldn't go quite this far usually. I have tried to sharpen it up, boost the colours, fix the highlights and ditch the grain - as well as try a more dynamic crop than the 2nd image ;) (possible Marmite point)


Sutil edit by Fireproof_Creative, on Flickr

And here's the fullsize version

There are plenty of way to process and there is no cut and paste set of settings that will work for all images as all images are different. But if you give your self the best chance and familiarise yourself with processing controls you should be able to improve your images pretty quickly. If anyone has any better ideas or clarifications please feel free to shoot me down and offer a better way :)

Hopefully its useful to someone :)
 
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That was really interesting and rather scary looking at the initial image big!... i think i need to learn alot more on processing and size etc :eek:

Good stuff!:thumbs:
 
Will definitely be reading this through when an get back from Oulton tomorrow. Cheers for doing it Jonathan and this definitely needs sticking :thumbs:
 
very interesting read, good to see how others work..

Me, i used to shoot in Raw and full manual but now days my turn over is very high as i shoot and sell motocross images weekly so now days its Jpeg fine and shutter priority with the in camera settings tweaked to suit.

1
take anything from 500-1500 images in a day.

2
load into iPhoto on my Mac, fast scan through deleting anything thats not good enough ie blurred clipped etc etc, at the same time i flag any that i really like for my personal favourites folder.

3
save images in a folder then export a full set low res straight to the website where they are auto watermarked and ready for the riders to order. This whole process if i dont mess about will take about an hour or so..

4
sold images are then exported to LR4 and edited one by one but i do sometimes use the previous function, then if theres any cloning needed etc its into CS6 and finally my logo added and then forwarded to the client as either a print or download.

i do also at times just edit in iPhoto as i find a lot of the time its more than capable plus it displays the picture full screen which is very handy when doing a lot of editing when the old eyes begin to wobble a bit :)
 
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Thanks for posting, would never have thought to work at 100%. Especially when sharpening, would never have imagined to sharpen that much either.

No worries, each image is different and I cooked it this much to demonstrate how far you can go if you are keeping an eye on it and using the sliders carefully. It's all too easy to end up with horrible noise and jaggies if you're not careful
 
Interesting read Jon, the settings you've used there are very similar to what I now use with my images.

Another thing I would add is if you intend posting the images online, how you save the images once you've finished the editing process is equally as important. Saving at low quality will basically ruin all your good work, so always make sure to use the 'Save for Web & Devices' function, with the following settings which I've found are pretty good:

JPEG Quality - Maximum (100)
Convert to sRGB
Quality - BiCubic Sharper

Hope that helps.

Rhod
 
Interesting read Jon, the settings you've used there are very similar to what I now use with my images.

Another thing I would add is if you intend posting the images online, how you save the images once you've finished the editing process is equally as important. Saving at low quality will basically ruin all your good work, so always make sure to use the 'Save for Web & Devices' function, with the following settings which I've found are pretty good:

JPEG Quality - Maximum (100)
Convert to sRGB
Quality - BiCubic Sharper

Hope that helps.

Rhod

Excellent point, very much agree
 
Enjoyed reading through that. Thanks very much for taking the time to write it all down. I just generally work by trial and error in PP, and although I don't use PS - it was still a good read, and definitely worthy of a sticker.......and a gold star!
 
Thanks for the interesting post. Almost stopped reading when I saw that first image, thought that was what you were promoting - I hate this current trend for "HDR" images - just looks like a grey filter has been used and grainier than when I shoot above 6400 ISO.
 
Many thanks for this, very interesting. Will have to try this coming weekends efforts from Silverstone !!
 
Great read - many thanks for taking the time to do this :thumbs:

well im on the right lines and do a similar process as you. Some nice little bits for me to think about next time :)

Once thing I do sometimes is hit the auto button on PS RAW just too see what PS is thinking best for the shot, usually I find its not what im after so I mentally note the settings it has selected and then hit default and use those settings as a benchmark - or I will tweak the sliders to bring it back to how I want it. found this has helped me understand what the sliders do more. Still a long way for me to go if fully understanding, part of the fun....

One thing I have issues with is, process in RAW and like the result so save it as jpeg, open it in PS to say clone and I always seam to have to tweak the levels to darken the image?!? its as if PS reduces the amount of contrast and levels?

bob
 
Fascinating tuff, the sharpening sliders were an eye opener, roughly 10 times higher than I've ever gone! Will certainly try and tinker a bit more with some favourite images in future.
 
Great read - many thanks for taking the time to do this :thumbs:

well im on the right lines and do a similar process as you. Some nice little bits for me to think about next time :)

Once thing I do sometimes is hit the auto button on PS RAW just too see what PS is thinking best for the shot, usually I find its not what im after so I mentally note the settings it has selected and then hit default and use those settings as a benchmark - or I will tweak the sliders to bring it back to how I want it. found this has helped me understand what the sliders do more. Still a long way for me to go if fully understanding, part of the fun....

One thing I have issues with is, process in RAW and like the result so save it as jpeg, open it in PS to say clone and I always seam to have to tweak the levels to darken the image?!? its as if PS reduces the amount of contrast and levels?

bob

When you convert raw to jpeg you reduce the available colour space, while this should be very slight make sure in your conversion settings you are using the correct colour profile
 
Fascinating tuff, the sharpening sliders were an eye opener, roughly 10 times higher than I've ever gone! Will certainly try and tinker a bit more with some favourite images in future.

Glad you found it useful mate, I'm writing a much more detailed version. What I would say is that the variation between bodies has big effect on how well the image responds to sharpening the 5diii loves the sharpen slider, the 7d not so much for example.
 
Glad you found it useful mate, I'm writing a much more detailed version. What I would say is that the variation between bodies has big effect on how well the image responds to sharpening the 5diii loves the sharpen slider, the 7d not so much for example.


Looking forward to seeing this.
 
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