Problem with D3

LeeP

LeeP

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Lee
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Guys

Spoke to Colin about this but he hasn't come across it.

I've got a problem with a D3, whereby at high fps rate (anything over 4fps) and anything over 2000ISO, I am getting a banding moving over the image. It comes from bottom to top over about 3 frames, then 3 are fine. Happens in any environment.

See below for this.

I've changed white balance settings, changed from RAW to all types of JPEG and the problem remains.

Any ideas?

Have updated the firmware (both A and B) to no avail.....

Cheers

Lee

6400err.jpg
 
That just looks like the area of focus, and out of focus area fall off to me. It's much more evident with closer focusing. Does it still happen photographing the picture straight on? You are at 2.8, does it happen at f8?
 
I can't see any 'banding' on that pic :shrug:

Perhaps post same shot which you think is ok to compare
 
I see what you mean, the orange cast over the center. Not had this on mine though, but I'll try and test.

Pete
 
icecavern, taking a few moments to inspect the image, I see what you mean.

It's like the area of unsharpness takes n a slightly different cast. Takes a few moments to spot it thogh. Would be interesting to see it on a landscape image with something like a blue sky to see what the difference is...
 
Hmm does seem to be an orange cast towards the right (not sure that's what he's describing though - I'm sure he'll fill us in!)

This isn't anything to do with the botched first firmware update is it? I know that caused problems with certain images at high fps. I would try setting it back to the original firmware, if you can.
 
I'm quite familiar with DOF thank you.

I was shooting at 2.8 to get a high shutter speed indoors for the test. It happens at all apertures / ISO configurations over 2000 like I said earlier.

The picture is just a snap to show the orange area.

Here is a frame that's come out as I would expect it:

1/250 @ F8

6400ok.jpg


Here is one, 2 images before, same setup ....

6400-2.jpg
 
The first release of the D3 firmware update caused problems, but not like this. This was removed form the site and there's a new one that fixes the issue now. I've just tried mine on Ch, and couldn't duplicate the problem. I don't have the latest firmware yet though, I'm still on the original in camera software.
 
LeeP, didn't mean to insult or casue offense. :)

That's well wierd. Have you done a search on the Nikon website for info?
 
LeeP said:
I'm quite familiar with DOF thank you.

I was shooting at 2.8 to get a high shutter speed indoors for the test. It happens at all apertures / ISO configurations over 2000 like I said earlier.

The picture is just a snap to show the orange area.

Here is a frame that's come out as I would expect it:

1/250 @ F8

6400ok.jpg


Here is one, 2 images before, same setup ....

6400-2.jpg
Click to expand...

All is clear now. That ain't right at all is it. I'll try have a go with mine later this evening and see...
 
This was happening before the update (so version 1.0). Now on the updated version.

Appears much more frequently indoors.

Anyone with a D3, get into an indoor / poorly lit area, ISO6400, F8 and CH mode (8fps for example) and reel 40 shots off. How many are affected ?
 
Can't help with any technical solutions, but I can ask whether you have eliminated the lens by trying a different one Lee - I realise its unlikely to be a lens issue, but you never know and you have to check all avenues I suppose :shrug:

Whatever it is, good luck getting it sorted out, thats one helluva'b expensive camera to be having issues with :bang:
 
Yeah, this happens with my 50mm 1.8, 14-24 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 70-200 2.8 and LensesForHire's 300mm 2.8 so certainly removed any doubt of the glass.
 
Can clearly see what you mean now Lee that is very strange ! Sorry i cant offer any suggestions, do you know anybody local with a D3 you can try this on ? just so you can rule a body problem out ?
 
I have another D3 body that the problem occurs on, just not half as frequently.

I've just raised a case with Nikon Professional services.

Will let all know of outcome. Watch out for firmware 1.2 being released soon :D
 
LeeP said:
I have another D3 body that the problem occurs on, just not half as frequently.

I've just raised a case with Nikon Professional services.

Will let all know of outcome. Watch out for firmware 1.2 being released soon :D
Click to expand...


Hmmm even more puzzling, specially if it is happening on the other body as well, keep us posted :)
 
Reference # 080430-000566 with Nikon PS raised.

Will keep y'all posted.
 
That ain`t good lee....:thumbsdown:

Best of luck getting it sorted.....:thumbs:
 
LeeP said:
Anyone with a D3, get into an indoor / poorly lit area, ISO6400, F8 and CH mode (8fps for example) and reel 40 shots off. How many are affected ?
Click to expand...

Lee, I've just tried mine on the above settings and looking at the images on the LCD there doesn't appear to be any problems at this end, were your results visible on the LCD or just on your computer?
 
Hacker said:
Lee, I've just tried mine on the above settings and looking at the images on the LCD there doesn't appear to be any problems at this end, were your results visible on the LCD or just on your computer?
Click to expand...

Colin

Both on LCD and Computer. More so on the PC though.
 
Were you shooting under fluorescent lights ? Looks like it to me - you often get colour shifts and bands like this due to the way the lights strobe on and off. Especially noticeable when you shoot a burst of shots.

I was sure I had a problem with my 5D shortly after I got it which looked very similar - until someone pointed it out to me.
 
WeddingHack said:
Were you shooting under fluorescent lights ? Looks like it to me - you often get colour shifts and bands like this due to the way the lights strobe on and off. Especially noticeable when you shoot a burst of shots.

I was sure I had a problem with my 5D shortly after I got it which looked very similar - until someone pointed it out to me.
Click to expand...
That sounds right to me...
 
I've had issues outside too - I've just tried to find an example but can't. I hear what you're saying about the temperature of the tubes and how it can have an effect etc ....
 
If shooting under flourescent light though would the colour shift not be green instead?
 
Thats what I was thinking all the way down this thread till the 1/250th shots came out.
Could try some tungsten lighting just to be sure, but 1/250th shouldn't be too fast for even non high frequency florescent, unless there is something wrong with it...the light that is.
Ballasts do go a bit funny for a while, just before they kick the bucket.
 
Just tried again to replicate the issue on my D3 and nothing, seems to be working. Although I have just found a strange thing with the number of FPS.

Edit: Ignore the FPS comment, I was being stupid... :(
 
hi mate,

I believe that this is because the frame rate, I repeat the frame rate, not the shutter speed selected on the D3 (which I also own) is faster than the frequency of indoor lighting, which is generally around 50hz. As such, you catch intermittent spells of light from the moment it is generated to its conclusion, which in effect look like white balance issues, but are in fact caused by the ability of the camera and the slowish refresh rate of the lighting. They can look and seem like every other shot is different which is again caused by the frequency and the speed of the FPS. Of course, we now await the day when RAW buffers will allow fast bursts you can do a WB batch change to loose issues like this. You will not notice this in a pro lighting rig - example if you were covering boxing in Vegas. Without sounding obvious, the frame rate will have little effect on WB as far as I am aware, but may. Of course it does affect the sharpness etc based on aperture.

Also for reference, the Mark II and III canon cameras I have owned also exhibit this issue. I have discussed this issue with Nikon and electricians as well as Canon. Here is a two year old example taken on a Canon Mark II N. Same night, same set up, but note how the colour has shifted on the ceiling.

2430638851_da5b6917df.jpg


2430641081_9282008e3a.jpg


Hope this helps,

Pete.
 
It's all about the shutter speed if it is flourescent lighting causing the problem.

The trick is to shoot at multiples of half the light cycle time - don't ask me why but it works. As mentioned before most UK lights run at 50hz, so shooting at 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/200 will be fine.

Also, you can't go above your cameras flash sync speed - if you do, then due to the way focal plane shutters work not all your image will be exposed to the same colour of light in the cycle - hence the banding.
 
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