Printing photos

You'll find most are pretty standard ratio like I mentioned above.

No worries with the advice. We all have our own thoughts so keep your mind open to others too :)
 
cheers for the sizes will keep them in mind for future cropping
 
donkeymusic said:
cheers for the sizes will keep them in mind for future cropping
Click to expand...

As I say do it in-camera - Get the composition right for what you want. If you know you need a 10x8, give a little room when composing so you can crop.
 
EOS_JD said:
My Epson R2400 has a max dpi of 5760 x 1440!
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Aye, that's where a lot of the marketing confusion comes in. Some inkjets are advertised as 300dpi, and they truly mean 300dpi (which would be equivalent to about 75dpi on a dye-sub), and some of them state 300dpi when they mean 300 groups of dots per inch (1200dpi), and it confuses a lot of people.

Kind of reminds me of the whole 1,000,000,000 bytes vs 1,073,741,824 bytes (1024 x 1024 x 1024) == 1 Gigabyte confusion when hard drives actually started getting a decent size. :)
 
THe Sony A550 you have produces two ratios, 3:2 and 16:9. I'd suggest using 3:2 as you can always crop to 16:9 if you need to.

The Sony therefore can give an image (with no cropping) that is any size with a ratio of 3:2. Most popular sizes are 6x4, 9x6, 12x8, 15x10 etc etc.

With 4592 x 3056 pixels you can print a 15x10 @ 300ppi which is a very decent amount of resolution.
 
EOS_JD said:
THe Sony A550 you have produces two ratios, 3:2 and 16:9. I'd suggest using 3:2 as you can always crop to 16:9 if you need to.

The Sony therefore can give an image (with no cropping) that is any size with a ratio of 3:2. Most popular sizes are 6x4, 9x6, 12x8, 15x10 etc etc.

With 4592 x 3056 pixels you can print a 15x10 @ 300ppi which is a very decent amount of resolution.
Click to expand...

excellent, thats what i needed to now as well

cheers
 
Kaouthia said:
Aye, that's where a lot of the marketing confusion comes in. Some inkjets are advertised as 300dpi, and they truly mean 300dpi (which would be equivalent to about 75dpi on a dye-sub), and some of them state 300dpi when they mean 300 groups of dots per inch (1200dpi), and it confuses a lot of people.

Kind of reminds me of the whole 1,000,000,000 bytes vs 1,073,741,824 bytes (1024 x 1024 x 1024) == 1 Gigabyte confusion when hard drives actually started getting a decent size. :)
Click to expand...

I understand that - I was agreeing with your point.I know it's all marketing guff :) Although the numbers do mean something. 300dpi on an inkjet would not produce great results. The extra dots are down to the size of the nozzles and how the ink is placed on the page.

I also have 2 dye sub printers that print at a true 300dpi. :)
 
Ain't dye-subs fab? :D
 
Kaouthia said:
Ain't dye-subs fab? :D
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Quick and easy to use. Great quality too - BUT my inkjet prints on better papers and the output is large and the quality top class. Really depends on what you are doing as to when to use either.
 
Yeah, there is that. I would love to be able to print from my dye-subs on Ilford Galerie papers.
 
Smooth pearl is one of my favourites
 
Same :D
 
what dye sub printers do you have, and what would you recomend in the £150 region?
 
donkeymusic said:
okay say i cropped an image and it was more square so 4.5 x 5, how would you go about printing that?
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If you want it on 5 x 7 paper, add 1/4-inch and 1-inch borders, which'll be 75 and 300 pixels, working at 300dpi. You could then trim to leave 1/4-inch all round.

For framing, you should go up to a size so there's a reasonable width of mount left when the aperture has been cut for your printable area. Try and choose a print size that fits a standard frame if you're at the Wilko end of the market. White or cream coloured borders can substitute for a mount.
 
kallope said:
what dye sub printers do you have, and what would you recomend in the £150 region?
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I got 3 of these (I got a bargain deal on all 3 on eBay brand new old stock, and needed 'em for a small event)..

HiTi 630PL

One of these...

HiTi 730PS

And used to have one of these, but got rid of it because nobody seems to be able to get the media for it any more (shame really, was a kick ass printer)...

Olympus P-440

A month ago I would've said for £150 get a HiTi 730PS, because System Insight had 'em on special offer as they had just become a discontinued model, but now they cleared out the stock back up to a £280+Vat special order.

This is System Insight's current dye-sub lineup. They're the first people I'd talk to for opinions on the different models.
 
Kaouthia said:
I got 3 of these (I got a bargain deal on all 3 on eBay brand new old stock, and needed 'em for a small event)..

HiTi 630PL

One of these...

HiTi 730PS

And used to have one of these, but got rid of it because nobody seems to be able to get the media for it any more (shame really, was a kick ass printer)...

Olympus P-440

A month ago I would've said for £150 get a HiTi 730PS, because System Insight had 'em on special offer as they had just become a discontinued model, but now they cleared out the stock back up to a £280+Vat special order.

This is System Insight's current dye-sub lineup. They're the first people I'd talk to for opinions on the different models.
Click to expand...

i presume your quoting rental prices?
 
No the 730PS is £280+Vat to buy, but I got an email that had 'em listed for about £150-200 last month to clear out end-of-line stock.
 
EOS_JD said:
By doing this you will change the whole image - squeezing it or stretching it so that it looks nothing like the image you took.

It is not possible to change the ratio of an image (keeping it looking the same) perspective) without cropping or adding pixel information.
Click to expand...

Well duh lol. I think anyone knows it wont look the same. It's squeezed lol. Sometimes there is no choice, it's either squeeze or crop something that you want to keep. It's an option, that's all. It's better than cropping a wanted portion. I do it all the time and with big prints. Change from 12x18 to 11x14 with no noticiable effects...
 
Edsport said:
Well duh lol. I think anyone knows it wont look the same. It's squeezed lol. Sometimes there is no choice, it's either squeeze or crop something that you want to keep. It's an option, that's all. It's better than cropping a wanted portion.
Click to expand...
I would say squeezing an image in NEVER an option. I would rather have a small border around the image.


Edsport said:
I do it all the time and with big prints. Change from 12x18 to 11x14 with no noticiable effects...
Click to expand...

So long as you are happy that's fine but I think you would be in a massive minority there. You are making a 1:1.27 ratio image and making it a 1:1.5 ratio!!

You're reducing/increasing over an inch! That is a lot.
 
EOS_JD said:
THe Sony A550 you have produces two ratios, 3:2 and 16:9. I'd suggest using 3:2 as you can always crop to 16:9 if you need to.

The Sony therefore can give an image (with no cropping) that is any size with a ratio of 3:2. Most popular sizes are 6x4, 9x6, 12x8, 15x10 etc etc.

With 4592 x 3056 pixels you can print a 15x10 @ 300ppi which is a very decent amount of resolution.
Click to expand...

just had a look at images from yesterday and they are set to 3:2 but in photoshop the measurements are 7x4.659"

so not fitting to a standard ratio
 
Width / 3 == X
X * 2 == Height

7 / 3 == 2.33
2.33 * 2 == 4.66

So, yes, 7x4.659 is a 3:2 ratio.
 
EOS_JD said:
I would say squeezing an image in NEVER an option. I would rather have a small border around the image.




So long as you are happy that's fine but I think you would be in a massive minority there. You are making a 1:1.27 ratio image and making it a 1:1.5 ratio!!

You're reducing/increasing over an inch! That is a lot.
Click to expand...

You would say squeezing is never an option, with photography everything is an option whether some people like it or not. Some like over done HDR, some don't. I'ts just an option. May be not for you but for some it's fine. Simple...

And if you think for a sec you would know it don't have to be an inch reduction. You crop some, you squeeze some. It's just an option lol...
 
donkeymusic said:
just had a look at images from yesterday and they are set to 3:2 but in photoshop the measurements are 7x4.659"

so not fitting to a standard ratio
Click to expand...

What makes it that size is the ppi value. Remember those digital images should NOT be measured in inches. When looking at the image size, look at the number of pixels.

When you want to print, uncheck resample then enter the size of the print you want. Ps will automatically alter the ppi value to for the size of image you want.
 
Edsport said:
You would say squeezing is never an option, with photography everything is an option whether some people like it or not. Some like over done HDR, some don't. I'ts just an option. May be not for you but for some it's fine. Simple...

And if you think for a sec you would know it don't have to be an inch reduction. You crop some, you squeeze some. It's just an option lol...
Click to expand...

I totally understand what you are saying and I suppose it depends on the image - I would just NEVER contemplate doing that. I may do other things but if an image suits a particular size I do it at that - if someone asks for a different ratio, I tell them it's unavailable. I shoot people though so stretching is not an option.
 
EOS_JD said:
What makes it that size is the ppi value. Remember those digital images should NOT be measured in inches. When looking at the image size, look at the number of pixels.

When you want to print, uncheck resample then enter the size of the print you want. Ps will automatically alter the ppi value to for the size of image you want.
Click to expand...

bearing this in mide i was putting some photos on disks for friends that helped out with testing my studio, and wasnt sure what size to save them as. initially i did them as 5x7 but then i thought what if they wanted to print them larger. from 5x7 what size would they be able to print up to?

thanks
 
the thing is you can show as 5x7 in the image size dialogue but that info doesn't mean anything without the ppi tag either.

if yu just set the size to 5x7 without the resample box ticked, all the pixels are still in the image and you've given them the high res image. If the resample box was tagged and you sent it at 72ppi, then really you've sent a tiny file that will look very poor when printed at 5x7.

So depends what you actually sent. i print many of my images at 240ppi and larger ones at 150ppi.

if you sent the image as 5x7 @30ppi, then I could easily get a very nice 14x10 from that without worry of too much loss in quality. - half the ppi = double the print size (use the formula above to work out the print sizes at the required ppi.

Cheers
Jim
 
EOS_JD said:
Why do you want to do that? Set your crop to a standard size and you're done. I print images on my own printer so I can print any size. Most good labs will provide you with any image size you want.

I personally stick to 6x4, 7x5, 8x6, 8x8, 9x6, 10x7, 10x8, 10x10, 12x10, 15x10, 14x11, 16x12

Rarely do I use anything else - maybe for a panoramic I will chage it. Don't make things too complicated for yourself
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Is that the range of your prints that you offer to your customer?

i guess when you use a print size that isnt a 3:2 ratio, you are cropping, does this add time to viewing and editting and possibly offering too much choice to a customer?

thanks
 
i open in Lightroom, and review scoring keepers 4 and duds 1. I'll batch process most but will look at each to see if the crop could be enhanced. i know by looking usually what I might want removed from an image 9a stray arm or move an image off centre) and i just pick the normal sizes - i don't veer away much from 3:2, 7:5, 4:3 or 5:4 ratios

You can offer too much choice and you can spend a lot of time doing that but it speeds up the more you look. I do try to crop in camera but i see images within images sometimes if you see what I mean. Sometimes I do severe crops if i like something.

Doesn't add time to viewing though.

I'm not saying my workflow is 100% right but I'm happy at the moment - time is generally not a big factor but could become so.
 
donkeymusic said:
i guess when you use a print size that isnt a 3:2 ratio, you are cropping
Click to expand...
It depends on the camera. Some cameras like the D3s and D3x offer a native 5:4 file format (for 8x10 and such).
 
EOS_JD said:
i open in Lightroom, and review scoring keepers 4 and duds 1. I'll batch process most but will look at each to see if the crop could be enhanced. i know by looking usually what I might want removed from an image 9a stray arm or move an image off centre) and i just pick the normal sizes - i don't veer away much from 3:2, 7:5, 4:3 or 5:4 ratios

You can offer too much choice and you can spend a lot of time doing that but it speeds up the more you look. I do try to crop in camera but i see images within images sometimes if you see what I mean. Sometimes I do severe crops if i like something.

Doesn't add time to viewing though.

I'm not saying my workflow is 100% right but I'm happy at the moment - time is generally not a big factor but could become so.
Click to expand...

what would be the quickest to resize them in lightroom to the required ratio?

thanks
 
donkeymusic said:
what would be the quickest to resize them in lightroom to the required ratio?

thanks
Click to expand...

Go to the export panel. In the Image Sizing box click on the resize to fit. You may need to do this more than oince if you need images a different size. First select the images you want to change.

If you want 6x4s, you can click on the pixels box and change to "in" then enter 6 in both boxes and the ppi value to 300. Also click don't enlarge as I prefer to to enlarge images myself.

THat's it. THe reason you enter 6 in both boxes is that this is athe maximum width OR height. You could do the same with pixels. 1800/300 = 6" @300ppi so enter 1800 in both boxes @ 300ppi and this will give the same output.

If you have some images at a different crop, then select those and do it again at the required maximum width/height.
 
EOS_JD said:
Go to the export panel. In the Image Sizing box click on the resize to fit. You may need to do this more than oince if you need images a different size. First select the images you want to change.

If you want 6x4s, you can click on the pixels box and change to "in" then enter 6 in both boxes and the ppi value to 300. Also click don't enlarge as I prefer to to enlarge images myself.

THat's it. THe reason you enter 6 in both boxes is that this is athe maximum width OR height. You could do the same with pixels. 1800/300 = 6" @300ppi so enter 1800 in both boxes @ 300ppi and this will give the same output.

If you have some images at a different crop, then select those and do it again at the required maximum width/height.
Click to expand...

suppose what i would like is a frame that i can move over an image to try and get the best crop, i dont suppose that is available?

cheers
 
Yes, just use yoru marquee tool, set it to a 6x4 ratio, and drag a box over it.

Then just make an action that does Image -> Crop, then resizes it to 1800x1200 pixels @ 300dpi.
 
Yes press R and you'll see the crop tool. Select the crop ratio you want or enter a custom one.

I don't bother resizing to 300ppi at this point but you can anter the maximum size on each side so enter that bigger niumber in BOTH boxes. If it's 6x4 you want make sure "in" for inches is selected and enter 6 into both boxes. You will get images a max of 6" high or 6" wide.

You can use pixels too (1800 into both boxes)

And so on....

To crop just drag the edges and the frame will change to portrait/landscape depending how you drag.

Hope that help.
 
Like Kauthia says in Ps you can make this an action but in Lr the image size box is even quicker for multiple images . With an actio Ps opens, resizes, saves and closes each image. Lr is just easier and quicker for this.
 
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