Polaroid 110A 4x5 Conversion

[Strapps]

If I could find material that's thin enough to fold down but still light tight it would be much easier.

Cheap changing bag cut down?

I'll settle for a percentage as technical adviser

 

[stevelmx5]

Thanks Dean, I'll cut you in on any profits ;0)

Our friend Rocky is selling something that fits the bill technically although it looks a bit combersome and I don't know the actual dimensions but looking at the first image the top of it appears to be designed to fit a standard DDS back.

http://www.rockycameras.com/nice-vintage-back-bellows-1999-45457-p.asp

 

[Steve Smith]

Old changing bag material would be fine for a bag bellows. I used one to make the bellows for my 5x4 camera: http://stevesmithphoto.webs.com/bellows.html


Steve.

 

[stevelmx5]

that's an excellent looking set of bellows Steve, very tidy. I've been thinking about it over lunch and will put together a basic bellows joined to a front/rear plate. If I include 2 small hinged bars of acrylic they can fold down from the rear plate and wedge between it and the GGS to keep the bellows extended.

 

[stevelmx5]

I've been playing around with a few different ideas for the GGS shade. My priority is keeping it light but stable and ideally able to fold/disassemble to fit into a bag easily. The first idea I put together was two solid side pieces that slot over the rear of the camera then a single flexible pice slots into them to create a curved back. I then cut a narrow opening for viewing through to reduce as much light as possible.







This blocks the light nicely and would disassemble into 3 pieces. I'd make the end pieces out of 2mm acrylic and the flexible middle from 1mm. The main issues I see with this is it being quite high sided so wind would affect it as well as the centre flexible piece being quite long so difficult to fit into a bag. I'd also look like I was peeping into someone's letterbox ;0)

 

[ChrisR]

Would it allow using a loupe for more precise focusing?

 

[stevelmx5]

After making the letterbox and deciding against it I started looking at 7" monitor shades for external video monitors. These can be bought for less than £5 and attach using Velcro to the monitor. They also fold flat so are easy to store;



These looked promising and would just need a strip of Velcro attached around the GGS to attach them. The issue with them is that they don't really block the lower 1/3rd of the screen or the bottom so might not be that effective unless I use two of them (top/bottom) and overlap which will lead to issues of space around the GGS.

As a result, I went back to a simple design using 4 individual flat pieces of plasticard bonded to the GGS holder which can fold flat on top of each other for storage and to protect the GGS. When in use, the 4 flaps can be folded upright and secured to each other with simple Velcro tabs.







I've cut the template pieces to the largest sizes possible to fit the GGS holder and block as much light as possible. I think I'm going to go with this design to keep it simple and light :0)

 

[stevelmx5]

Would it allow using a loupe for more precise focusing?

Focussing with a loupe is going to be pretty difficult but having tried the screen out I think I'll be ok focussing by eye.

 

[Woodsy]

I think I'll be ok focussing by eye.

 

[stevelmx5]

Hey I said, "I think i'll be ok". That's not legally binding and open to interpretation when I get my first sheets developed..

 

[steveo_mcg]

I've got one of those hoods for an lcd, I've not worked out how to affix it. The camera side is narrow, I assumed it would have a broader bit folding down to attach but I think it'd designed to attach to the top and sides of a screen.


I'd recommend against relying on focusing by eye, what you see on the gg is effectively a contact print and might not stand up to magnification.

 

[stevelmx5]

I've just realised that if I make the shade in 4 separate pieces I can just unclip (velcro) the bottom piece and fold it down out the way so I can get a loupe onto the screen.

 

[stevelmx5]

For my next trick I'm going to fold a crane out of this card...









Drum roll....

 

[stevelmx5]

Ta da!







I'm now leaving it overnight under a couple of Grattan Catalogues (old school..) to press it out but I've got a fully articulated shade that is 120mm deep all round with a cutout in the bottom section so I can use a loupe :0). I'm impressed with myself for the first attempt!

I'll remove the original plastic shade when I unscrew the ground glass holder tomorrow.

 

[stevelmx5]

It's now finished drying and is all square. I've removed the tape holding the corners along with the original plastic shade.











I also cut a flat trim piece which will go over the top of the ground glass holder to give a neat finish once the shade is bonded to it.

 

[raathistle]

That shade design is pretty ingenious. Is it normal card, just wondering if you could waterproof it for if it's a little drizzley when your out and about?

I think I remember reading something about the scotchgard type sprays working on paper, might be worth a look?

 

[stevelmx5]

Thanks, I hadn't thought about a spray but you might be on to something. It's 210gsm card doubled over to make it rigid. I was thinking about using clear sticky back plastic (Blue Peter style!) on the outer sides but I'll look into sprays too. Cheers

 

[stevelmx5]

Rust oleum Neverwet looks good;

View: http://youtu.be/YgpSoxwb_J0

 

[raathistle]

Yeah, that's the kind of stuff I was thinking. It probably wouldn't be too bad to just remake one, but having gone to the trouble of making it it would be annoying if it melted while you were out

 

[stevelmx5]

Time to prime the ground glass holder. Started by frosting the acrylic to give it a key then managed a single coat on each side before I ran out of primer!





I'll need to pick up another can of primer as well as a flat black.

 

[stevelmx5]

Finally picked up some more primer and Matt black top coat so carrying on with the DDS and top plate.



While I'm waiting for the laser cutter to move locations I decided to cut out the first slice of the top plate from some 3mm acrylic sheet I had. This slice had the cutout for the DDS to slot into and the second slice will be the full width to cover it.





Needs a bit of sanding/shaping but should work out ok. Just need to buy some more acrylic now!

 

[stevelmx5]

Changed my mind :0)

I've decided to use a layer of 2mm hardboard and a layer of 6mm MDF instead.







I need to round off the edges and finish shaping these by hand but at least they fit.



I've also finished spraying the DDS and refitted my broken ground glass for now until I'm all finished and will fit the replacement.



Not sure I'll get chance to finish off the top and bottom plates before we go away on Thursday but I'll try!

 

[RaglanSurf]

Is the MDF/hardboard combo going to be susceptible to fluffing?

 

[Woodsy]

susceptible to fluffing

*says nothing*

 

[stevelmx5]

Lol, awesome term :0)

I'm hoping not. Once it's shaped I'm going to fill and prime it then finish it with a coat of the Matt black to match the DDS so I should get a nice smooth finish.

The pieces are only rough cut to shape at the moment so look a bit pants! They'll be fine once they're finished though :0)

 

[RaglanSurf]

*says nothing*

You have to lower the tone don't you? I'll have you know it's a perfectly acceptable term in camera fabrication circles

 

[stevelmx5]

Well, they're all glueing now before I can sand them to shape in the next couple of days. Seems to be a good fit with the DDS so should do the job nicely. I need to embed two magnets in the top plate for the viewfinder along with a small round bubble level and a tripod thread into the base plate.

 

[stevelmx5]

I'm liking the look now I've started to round the edges off.





Showing the slot that the DDS slides into to guide it into place.





Got some more hand sanding to do until it's ready to fill/prime.

 

[Andysnap]

Got some more hand sanding to do until it's ready to fill/prime.

Snigger.....

 

[stevelmx5]

I did my best Blue Peter impression tonight and used sticky back plastic to add some protection from the elements to my pop up ground glass shade.







I would drop it in a lake but it should be pretty much resistant to light rain now. I've left it being crushed flat under some heavy books overnight to help crease the backing. I think it looks ok on the camera :0)





Cheers
Steve

 

[stevelmx5]

Bit more work on the top and bottom plates at lunchtime. Added some fine filler in places so I can get it all level. It would be easier if the camera just stuck to 1 curve!





Worked my way down from 100 grit to 400 to get a nice smooth curve over the top corner. I've just put a first coat of primer on one site of the base panel so far while I wait for the filler to dry on the top one.



I reckon another couple of primer coats on each side and I should be able to finish it off with wet and dry before spraying the top coat. Seeing as it's Matt black it will show every imperfection so worth the extra prep time.

 

[Andysnap]

Well I think we all know what that looks like.... Snigger.... Again.

Seriously though you are doing a great job on this. Im really looking forward to seeing the finished item.

 

[stevelmx5]

Lol, always good to rely on Andy to drop a serious build thread to his own level ;0)

I've got about 4 coats of primer on so far. I reckon another couple and I'll leave it to harden fully. I need to drill out a hole for each magnet, bubble level and the tripod thread on the base so I'll do those next.

 

[abdoujaparov]

leave it to harden fully

I think it already has.

 

[stevelmx5]

Just for Andy, here's another phallic shot ;0)



All primed so leaving them overnight before I cut them with wet and dry ready for the top coat.

 

[stevelmx5]

Well, I'm biased but that's looking awesome [emoji3]











I'm made up with the finished shapes and looks like they line up to the completely random curves of the body!

I'm looking forward to getting them cut and top coated tomorrow now although I should be more excited about flying to Florida on Thursday [emoji631][emoji6]

 

[ChrisR]

Steve, no way a criticism for what is indeed an awesome project; I just felt in pic one of post 236 that the curves of your top deck don't quite match the curve of the metal, particularly towards the ends? Maybe it's just how they were sitting (assuming they're not fixed on yet)...

 

[stevelmx5]

No problem Chris (I'm crying inside really..). The top and bottom parts aren't fixed to the camera yet because I still need to spray them black :0)

Edit - one end of the top plate has a slight upward curve due to it bowing slightly when it was painted. When I bond it to the body it will be clamped together until dry so it will remove any curve.

 

[stevelmx5]

Ok, I've been attacking the top and bottom plates with a drill today :0)







Embedded two magnets as well as a round bubble level into the top plate and the tripod bush into the bottom.





The slight bow on the top plate will be sorted when it's glued/clamped after it's sprayed black.

 

[Andysnap]

Bloody superb job mate. Its looking the dogs.