Picked up my new camera today....a GF1

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Tysonator said:
From what I have read up on the GF1 it is a cracking little camera.
Lets us know how you gwt on with it.
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So far very happy with it. The 20mm pancake lens is superb. It's very light and compact to carry, and as it's a fast lens you can get great DOF with it. I have also tried out my 14-42 lens and also found it to be very sharp and with a good range of view, from wide angle to small zoom. It's not as fast a lens as the 20mm so not as good in low light.
 
rookies said:
How come some of you get a pen and a gf1 would it not make sense to sell one or is it good to have them both???
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It's a compromise between the systems, both E-P1 and GF1 have there strengths and weaknesses. I have an E-P1 and a G1, best of both worlds!
 
sidxms said:
Erm,

where did you buy the novoflex adapter? I'm seeing it for £155 at speedgraphic.co.uk.
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:eek: The branded ones aren't cheap and I got the Novoflex (and I think the Voigtlander) one from Speedgraphic. I have a fair amount of Nikon kit including some long lenses so it was worth it, though I'd have gladly paid less.

sidxms said:
Somethings not right. I've picked up a cheaper one off the bay for £28 quid as I dont have G lenses
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If you don't need the aperture control there are certainly cheaper ones, some great, and some maybe not so great -- I think someone posted a link for one that seemed ok earlier in this thread. Provided it's well made, doesn't feel rough, and doesn't catch on the body, lens, or electrical contacts, why worry.

If you only have/ want one or two lenses and would need the more expensive aperture control adapters then, all things considered, it might be worth just buying MFT lenses -- you'd have AF and, with the possible exception of the Leica adapter, have a smaller package.

As more lenses come out and the prices come down these adapters will likely become less attractive unless you have some unusual or classic lenses.
 
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Had my GF1 a couple of weeks now, and slowly getting to grips with it :)

Here's a couple of pics from my holiday in Spain I've just come back from...

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I'm wondering where to go next, 45-200mm or 20mm pancake lens.

I also would like some kind of filter system for it, any recomendations people?
 
wibbly said:
I also would like some kind of filter system for it, any recomendations people?
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HiTech set in Cokin P size or the Lee RF set would be best for size.

Not sure what would be best if you plan on getting an ultra wide angle lens.
 
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Someone posted on here the Lee adapter fitted to the GF1. It was post 2932. No real need to go with the RF kit as there is no view finder to obscure.
 
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I really love the look of the Lee Rangefinder kit, which would work for the GF1, but costs will really start to spiral. I already spent £500 on the Olympus 9-18 :lol:

I also ordered more compatible batteries, I now have 7 in total :lol: There won't be reliable power where I am going and in some cases no power at all.
 
RSMarco said:
No real need to go with the RF kit as there is no view finder to obscure.
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It's just the added size of the normal kit. If that's not a problem then a standard kit is fine.
 
Very nice picture of the Pinecones wibbly - thank you for sharing ;)

ps. Yup, I've been inactive for a bit, I'll try to remedy that soon :P
 
neenee said:
Very nice picture of the Pinecones wibbly - thank you for sharing ;)
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Thanks :thumbs: I lurve this little camera, just need to add the other couple of lenses for it now! :lol:
 
wibbly said:
Thanks :thumbs: I lurve this little camera, just need to add the other couple of lenses for it now! :lol:
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££££££££££££££££££££££££££££'s
:bonk:
 
Munchkinn said:
Even with the latest ACR installed? That surprises me! :shrug:
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The latest ACR doesn't work with CS3 or LR1, as it's not supported in these earlier versions. thats why I had to do this workaround.

I have CS3 and LR 1 neither of which will work with Panasonic RAW files. I downloaded DNG converter 5.6 and converted my RAW files using this, but they would not open in CS3. I have now solved the problem however.

If on opening and loading the RAW file into DNG Converter 5.6 you go to Preferences, Change Preference and chose make compatible with 4.6 and later, then save as a DNG file, it will then open in CS3.
 
Which lens do you guys use most on your GF1... I seem to be stuck on the 20mm as it seem to outclass the 14 - 42 Lens I have. I have found the 14 - 42 not too good indoor but it fine outdoor in the daylight. Have any of you manage to take some cracking shots with the 14 - 42 or 14 - 45.....
 
Well my GF1 and kit has surpassed expectations for its main use. The reason I changed from heavy canon stuff was that I just didnt take it out with me.

Today I walked about 2-3 miles in a huge wooded National Trust area (Hatfield Forest in Essex) with GF1 with lens hanging on one shoulder and bag with two other lenses and medium/large flash on the other shoulder.
Not an iota of a problem in that area at all. Didnt know I had them on to be honest. And managed to take these few to prove it works as well as being small and light!!:

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rookies said:
Which lens do you guys use most on your GF1... I seem to be stuck on the 20mm as it seem to outclass the 14 - 42 Lens I have. I have found the 14 - 42 not too good indoor but it fine outdoor in the daylight. Have any of you manage to take some cracking shots with the 14 - 42 or 14 - 45.....
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Took this picture a few minutes ago using my GF1 and the 14-45mm lens plus I did us flash, perhaps I should not have done that...

 
Thought I'd try out my 20mm lens on the day when it arrived, I couldn't take a picture of the camera with the camera:lol: so I took a picture of the box.
The lighting in the room was very poor and my desk was a mess - but who cares- I had a lovely new toy.

:)
 
Ok Folks..

What Mode do you guy uses as I am in M Mode as I have always worked in M Mode with my Canon Dslr I know what I am doing with these setting but have found my Canon seem to do a better job which I do expect but trying to get the best of the GF1 as I love the compact of it to go into the baby changing bag :) That the reason i got it for to be honest...

Also is there a way to turn of the screen from altering it lightness of when we change our settings as it annoys me I rather just read the light meter than the who screen altering all the time..
 
Hi Andrew, I'm not quite sure what you mean. I've just tested mine in M mode and I can't seem to find any problem with the screen. I just adjust shutter speed, aperture or ISO until the light meter isn't showing either a positive or negative value. Screen doesn't seem to change much to me - I can't understand what is annoying you about it?
 
hillwalkinggirl said:
Hi Andrew, I'm not quite sure what you mean. I've just tested mine in M mode and I can't seem to find any problem with the screen. I just adjust shutter speed, aperture or ISO until the light meter isn't showing either a positive or negative value. Screen doesn't seem to change much to me - I can't understand what is annoying you about it?
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Well for me the screen does change so I think there must be a setting somewhere that I need to turn off to stop the whole screen changing while I am changing Aperture or Shutter Speed settings like what your seeing is what I want to see
 
hillwalkinggirl said:
Hi Andrew, I'm not quite sure what you mean. I've just tested mine in M mode and I can't seem to find any problem with the screen. I just adjust shutter speed, aperture or ISO until the light meter isn't showing either a positive or negative value. Screen doesn't seem to change much to me - I can't understand what is annoying you about it?
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Also how are you finding your GF1 what lens you use mostly or have you only got the Pancake have you a big Dslr?

Took any cracking images yet?
 
I think I know what you mean, Andrew. It happens sometimes with me. Its like a compact.. when you are overexposed, the lcd shows the picture that you will obtain as being too light and when you underexpose the lcd is a darker image and that changes as you change your settings.

I find that quite useful actually but it doesnt seem to happen all the time.
 
Janice said:
I think I know what you mean, Andrew. It happens sometimes with me. Its like a compact.. when you are overexposed, the lcd shows the picture that you will obtain as being too light and when you underexpose the lcd is a darker image and that changes as you change your settings.

I find that quite useful actually but it doesnt seem to happen all the time.
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Yeah that right so it must be a standard feature was hoping be able to turn it off to be honest....
 
rookies said:
Also how are you finding your GF1 what lens you use mostly or have you only got the Pancake have you a big Dslr?

Took any cracking images yet?
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I am finding it very good. I like the pancake lens for low light as it is a much faster lends than the 14-42, but for taking photos out and about in the daylight the zoom lens is excellent. I took the 14-42 lens for a walk last night in the dark to see how it performed in low light, but to be quite honest I didn't give it a fair trial as I took the photos handheld. They were OK but certainly not any I would put up as cracking. They would have been a lot better if I had taken a tripod or monopod, but it was just a quick walk while hubby was watching rugby and football. However I did take the photos at 1/2 sec, f5.6 and ISO 100, no flash. (I should have remembered to up the ISO but I couldn't see what I was doing in the dark). Now if I had taken at those settings with my Nikon D80 I would have got nothing.

My D80 with Sigma 105 macro lens excels when taken macro shots so I would always use the D80 for close up work, as I don't think I will be affording a macro lens for the GF1. The GF1 however doesn't do a bad job of close up with a Raynox lens.

Unless I'm taking a photo where I want the exposure to be very specific for a certain feature, for example someones face, then I prefer to use either Aperture or Shutter mode, as it's much quicker to take a fast shot which you might otherwise lose whilst messing about with manual control.
 
Another thing I have found folks is that anything above 800 ISO is not good at all to be honest the Max I would go is ISO 400 wonder if a firmware update will improve the ISO performance in the future?

I have a decent manfrotto pro190 tripod that i use with my big gear but I am wondering what i could get light weigh and that i would carry around all the time for the GF1 any suggestions??
 
I tend to use mainly Aperture Priority or if I'm incredibly lazy I just wang it into P mode and let the camera do the work for simple stuff!
 
Here is a image I did last week with the pancake and GF1 would never get this quality with a compact thou

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rookies said:
Yeah that right so it must be a standard feature was hoping be able to turn it off to be honest....
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I've just tried to replicate this and my GF1 doesn't seem to do it :thinking:
 
RichardtheSane said:
I've just tried to replicate this and my GF1 doesn't seem to do it :thinking:
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What mode u use, do u have the graph on your screen? Also try pointing at bright sky then to dark ground then post back.
 
rookies said:
What mode u use, do u have the graph on your screen? Also try pointing at bright sky then to dark ground then post back.
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Manual mode.

From light sky to indoors the screen alters it's state so I can still view what is in the frame.

I may have misunderstood what you said then. I assumes when you said it happens when you change settings that you meant the brightness on the screen changes under or over expose. My test for this was indoors change the settings from correct, to F8 & 1/2000 - it was doing this that did not give the described problem.
 
RichardtheSane said:
Manual mode.

From light sky to indoors the screen alters it's state so I can still view what is in the frame.

I may have misunderstood what you said then. I assumes when you said it happens when you change settings that you meant the brightness on the screen changes under or over expose. My test for this was indoors change the settings from correct, to F8 & 1/2000 - it was doing this that did not give the described problem.
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I will try this out later do u have the graph turned on?
 
Do you mean the meter graph or the histogram?

I have histogram off, but the effect I see remain the same with it on (I tried) and the exposure meter along the bottom is always on.

Happy to try stuff out if it helps you get to the bottom of it :)
 
RichardtheSane said:
Do you mean the meter graph or the histogram?

I have histogram off, but the effect I see remain the same with it on (I tried) and the exposure meter along the bottom is always on.

Happy to try stuff out if it helps you get to the bottom of it :)
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Yeah the histogram. Anyway I have done the test in M mode and ** right if focus on one spot it all fine..... Now in A mode if u alter the exsposure to compensate does the screen alter then?
 
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