Photos of watches

ab2012

ab2012

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alan
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Any tips for taking close-ups of watches?
Thanks.
 
Use a polorizer to reduce reflections and glare from any flashes? Dunno if that would help. I know my watch is really shiny :)
 
Thanks. Yep, I have to keep moving the watch around to try avoid reflection. I'm also using a Canon 50mm 1.8 which is focussing very slowly and sometimes not focussing at all.
I like yours John apart from, as you say, reflection.
 
Resting the watch on a shiny reflective surface, like a black granite tile or something might work I think. Have seen it somewhere before done like that.
 
Dark/dim room (kills reflections), small light tent, some spot lights and props, no flash, the rest is simple.
Might also need tripod, long exposure and remote, depending on your spot lights.

I have an example I used for selling a watch on Ebay..... I'll try to find it when I get home :)
 
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I do like watches to waste some time taking shots of them - for shots that actually show the I tend to either shoot them on a sheet of black pespex for a reflection (as suggested above), or on a very plain BG so it is purely about the watch. I also like to take fun shots with them too... here are a few of mine.

I spend time adjusting the angle of the watch to avoid reflections. However if you shoot at too much of an angle you can loose some of the face into the case which isn't the best.

6635299197_427298ab0d_b.jpg


8407305231_6733c43ff7_b.jpg


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8390053992_19a9d4e16b_b.jpg
 
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Here we go........

Possibly the worst watch I could have picked, with its frustratingly floppy strap, but it did the job, we got almost the full retail price for it (which was higher than the Amazon sale price) :)

DSC_4323s.jpg
 
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10 past 10 seems to be standard too for a lot of watch photography.
 
Did you use a tripod for that 30 sec shot, Tom?
 
Yes, my hands aren't that steady!
 
I found that a small light tent --macro lens--tripod worked best.


DBR1* by M1RVW, on Flickr
 
Stowa Flieger without logo indeed ! Like your photo :)
 
Wear an iron chain around your neck, garlic does not work.
I hear rowan berries can ward them off...
:)
 
I don't see the point in totally killing reflections and highlights, especially by using light tents.

Many watches are beautifully crafted and that's one of the reasons people wear them on their wrists (apart from the obvious time-keeping properties), and in many cases, it's the reflections that uncover the depth and detail of the manufacture.

Shots like these have ample highlights to give a three-dimensional quality:

U-BOAT-16.jpg


Buy-Replika-Watches.jpg
 
specialman said:
I don't see the point in totally killing reflections and highlights, especially by using light tents.

Many watches are beautifully crafted and that's one of the reasons people wear them on their wrists (apart from the obvious time-keeping properties), and in many cases, it's the reflections that uncover the depth and detail of the manufacture.

Shots like these have ample highlights to give a three-dimensional quality:
Click to expand...

Absolutely agree, don't kill the reflections, control them! Without the depth given by reflections such as in the shot above, they can look flat and very uninspiring. Large light sources and strategically placed black flags...
 
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Davince said:
Absolutely agree, don't kill the reflections, control them! Without the depth given by reflections such as in the shot above, they can look flat and very uninspiring. Large light sources and strategically placed black flags...
Click to expand...

Some really good photography here...

Just as a thought, I've noticed pics of reflective objects where other colours are used instead of a black flag. My preference is for black, but one shouldn't be constrained by 'tradition'.
 
kendo1 said:
Some really good photography here...

Just as a thought, I've noticed pics of reflective objects where other colours are used instead of a black flag. My preference is for black, but one shouldn't be constrained by 'tradition'.
Click to expand...

That is very true, good point - I've seen some stunning use of deep reds and burgundy in flagging, I really should find time to experiment more with that sort of thing!
 
Lighting is key since how the light falls on a watch is important since you want the detail to stand out as opposed to being bleached by the light. Placement of hands as well since you would want to minimise obscuring detail. Best to have the hour and minute hands around the 10:10 position to ensure symmetry. The seconds hand at around 40 or perhaps 45. If you are photographing a GMT watch, then the GMT hand at 20. Again, for reasons of symmetry. Then as Alan suggested, do ensure that the watch is clean, especially in the nooks and crannies. Remember too that scratches can show up in macro. Lume can add a very pleasing aspect to a watch picture so capture this if you can. It need not be only shown off in dark conditions. If you can, use a light tent.

Hope this helps. Used to do a reasonable amount of watch photography as I ran a watch forum.
 
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When using the nifty 50 I'm getting continuous bleeping with red circle flashing merrily in right-hand side of LED screen.Is the lens too close to the watch on my wrist? The lens focuses slow and tank-like at the best of times, sometimes won't focus at all.Bleeping goes away when focussing on object further away.
Thanks.
 
Page 85 of the manual:

Canon 50D User Manual said:
If focus cannot be achieved, the focus confirmation light <o> in the
viewfinder will blink. If this occurs, a picture cannot be taken even if the
shutter button is pressed completely. Recompose the picture and try to
focus again.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, Adrian . That's exactly what has been happening. I'd have thought I would be able to get pretty close( vague :)) with the 50 lens. I must need a macro? who knows!
Thanks again. Now the manual.
 
ab2012 said:
I'd have thought I would be able to get pretty close( vague :)) with the 50 lens. I must need a macro? who knows!
Click to expand...

Have you considered extension tubes? They will let you get closer. Ones with electrical contacts should maintain functionality and allow you to focus/select aperture. I'm sure there was a thread some time ago about whether the cheapo ebay ones were any good.
 
Yes, someome did mention extension tubes..on this thread perhaps..I looked on Jessops site but can't see anything. I was hoping Kerso might do them but doesn't seem to do so. I'll look on ebay but tend to stay clear. I had a look at that page in the handbook. Makes sense.
 
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