Photography on moving ships?

Apparently the seafood on board is excellent. Booze isn't cheap in Scandinavia though so get some duty free at the port (UK end!)
 
jerry12953 said:
Thanks again. Despite the advice I've been getting I'm sure it is possible to do what you originally suggested, only to use some kind of additive method rather than the averaging method, the technique for which is widely available on the internet.
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You could combine the image stack using the overlay mode, where lights lighten lighter areas and darks darken darker areas. But the problem with stacking severely underexposed images is simply the lack of information recorded/available.

I would suggest determining the slowest SS usable w/o blur of stars/land, and then use as high of an ISO as necessary to get the image bright. Take a bunch of these noisy images and align/stack. Then blend in "mean" which removes differences (the random ISO noise).
I don't do a lot of image stacks, but IME the automated processes always leave a little something desired. Once the automated processes are done I almost always need to manually mask some details back in/out.
 
sk66 said:
You could combine the image stack using the overlay mode, where lights lighten lighter areas and darks darken darker areas. But the problem with stacking severely underexposed images is simply the lack of information recorded/available.

I would suggest determining the slowest SS usable w/o blur of stars/land, and then use as high of an ISO as necessary to get the image bright. Take a bunch of these noisy images and align/stack. Then blend in "mean" which removes differences (the random ISO noise).
I don't do a lot of image stacks, but IME the automated processes always leave a little something desired. Once the automated processes are done I almost always need to manually mask some details back in/out.
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I get what you're saying.....more food for thought, thanks.
 
I've only speed read the posts on this thread so sorry if this has already been mentioned. I know that using a UV filter when taking photos of the Northern Lights can lead to a 'Newton's rings' effect of concentric circles appearing in the image. I think this is something to do with the lightwave frequency and the reflection/refraction between the lens elements and the filter.

I don't know if this would apply to other filters such as ND and polariser though. I know polariser filters produce an unpleasing effect when taking daylight photos of blue sky with ultra-wide angle lenses, so I probably wouldn't risk using one of those on the aurora just in case. Obviously this is a rather specialist subject but perhaps doing an internet search on using filters when photographing the Northern Lights might give you some useful info? Thought I'd better raise this subject as it would be a pity if you made the trip and your photos got ruined simply as a result of using a filter.
 
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Sorry, just saw the 'F' word mentioned in a thread about the Northern Lights and thought I'd better say something. Have a good trip, I hope the NL come out to play, and don't forget to post the photos on here if they do. (y)
 
We were very fortunate to see an amazing display in September whilst on land in Lofoten - a friend said that it had been the biggest solar whatever in 10 years - it was amazing.. I used a 16-35mm and it really wasn't wide enough for the magnificent show that covered the entire sky at times. So, if you want to cover all bases and have the cash, go very wide indeed would be my advice...hire something if you can't run to a new lens. Bon voyage.
 
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