Photography Notebooks?

Harlequin565

Harlequin565

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Do any of you have notebooks?

I made a Blurb notebook that had a page layout for date, film type & development, with an entry for each frame so I could record the settings and any notes against a particular frame, but I rarely used it. Then earlier this year, I bought a Filofax (cheap on eBay because no one uses them any more!) and started to consolidate not just shooting information but development notes, what I thought about different films, reciprocity failure experiments with films that weren't listed, camera idiosyncracies, and other bits and bobs. I'm also putting my favourite images in there (as prints on photo paper, hole punched to fit). It's more of a scrap book than a formal shooting notebook.

I think when I started my contact sheet thread this was what I was trying to achieve, but having a physical notebook to refer back to has been invaluable recently. How do I expose/develop Washi F and what light does it work best in? How far out is the meter on my 35RC? Superpan 200 is on sale... Do I like that film?

Everything is different per individual: Available light for the scene, camera choice, lens choice, developer, scan methods - even water hardness etc... A general "how to" book is a useful guide, but getting consistent results just how you like them can be tricky to remember when you got it right that one time. And also, personal preference is useful. I actually quite like Tri-X over HP5 but it has a harder contrast (based on my developer and eyesight) and I only know this because I made notes about it.

Is it just me that does this?
 
Harlequin565 said:
Do any of you have notebooks?

I made a Blurb notebook that had a page layout for date, film type & development, with an entry for each frame so I could record the settings and any notes against a particular frame, but I rarely used it. Then earlier this year, I bought a Filofax (cheap on eBay because no one uses them any more!) and started to consolidate not just shooting information but development notes, what I thought about different films, reciprocity failure experiments with films that weren't listed, camera idiosyncracies, and other bits and bobs. I'm also putting my favourite images in there (as prints on photo paper, hole punched to fit). It's more of a scrap book than a formal shooting notebook.

I think when I started my contact sheet thread this was what I was trying to achieve, but having a physical notebook to refer back to has been invaluable recently. How do I expose/develop Washi F and what light does it work best in? How far out is the meter on my 35RC? Superpan 200 is on sale... Do I like that film?

Everything is different per individual: Available light for the scene, camera choice, lens choice, developer, scan methods - even water hardness etc... A general "how to" book is a useful guide, but getting consistent results just how you like them can be tricky to remember when you got it right that one time. And also, personal preference is useful. I actually quite like Tri-X over HP5 but it has a harder contrast (based on my developer and eyesight) and I only know this because I made notes about it.

Is it just me that does this?
Click to expand...

It's something I intend to do when I start shooting film again. Whether it's a "proper" photographers notebook with pre-printed sections for exposure, processing etc, a small standard notebook, or whatever scrap of paper is lying around I'm not sure yet. Optimistically the first, realistically the last :/
 
I carry a small notebook (blank but lined) for thoughts/impressions and ideas. I also make notes about shots I have taken which used to include settings info but have also started using an app called Film Shots which I use to record the settings info which I can then export. It's early days but I like it so far.
 
Harlequin565 said:
invaluable recently. How do I expose/develop Washi F and what light does it work best in? How far out is the meter on my 35RC? Superpan 200 is on sale... Do I like that film?
Click to expand...

I tried one camera, one lens, one type of film for a while and tbh found it extremely liberating.
It takes away any need for notes!

Atm I have several different films on the go but I think I will revert back to two types when stocks run down as less choice is easier( for me) and reduces the chances of errors( speed, recipicracy, development etc).
This is potentially where your note book comes in but personally having kept notes , I found at times that I needed a secretary.

The only notes I make now are either temporary ones when out in the field to remind me of any details relevant to the exposure ( if i pushed the film for example)

Permanent notes, if I remember to do them, are no more than the filter grade and exposure duration used for enlargements / wet prints which I scribble on the rear edge of the print.
This is only to enable me to reprint without the need to start from scratch with test strips.

‘Thé time i used to put into keeping notes ( written in a book or typed on the computer) is now put to what I see as better things such as taking photos ;)
 
Asha said:
The only notes I make now are either temporary ones when out in the field to remind me of any details relevant to the exposure ( if i pushed the film for example)
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I try to remember to write details on the darkslides, but sometimes even fail to do that. :oops: :$:asshat:
 
Peter B said:
I try to remember to write details on the darkslides, but sometimes even fail to do that. :oops: :$:asshat:
Click to expand...
Suggestion.
Zip bag for the darkslide ( helps keep dust to a minimum.
Sticker on bag stating film loaded.
Bag can obviously be used many times.
 
Asha said:
Suggestion.
Zip bag for the darkslide ( helps keep dust to a minimum.
Sticker on bag stating film loaded.
Bag can obviously be used many times.
Click to expand...
Oh I write the film on the darkslide label and keep it in a ziplock bag, it's the shooting details I forget to write on it after I've exposed the film. :facepalm:
 
Peter B said:
Oh I write the film on the darkslide label and keep it in a ziplock bag, it's the shooting details I forget to write on it after I've exposed the film. :facepalm:
Click to expand...

I don’t bother unless I’ve pushed the film which isn’t often or if doing the panos with the cut darkslides and need to keep tabs in which section of the film has been exposed.
Any other shooting details such as aperture, shutter speeds et ( for me) are unnecessary.
 
Stegosaurus said:
By the way, how do you develop Washi F? I've just ordered a roll to try!
Click to expand...

From my *ahem* notes...

HC110 (B) 9m at 20C. Rodinal 1+50 also 9m at 20C. No real difference between the two developers that I can see as this is quite an ethereal film.

I expose this film at 400 ISO on sunny days and 200 on gloomy days. With it being very sensetive to light, I think shooting it at 100 in bright sun just gives it too much light. I have literally just pulled a roll out to develop tonight that was shot at 400 in gloom and am interested to see if that looks under exposed. In bright sun, if you can find high contrast scenes (like the woods) the way the halation affects the image is really pleasing to me. I'm a big fan of Simon Marsden's IR work with Kodak HIE and this gives (to my eyes) a similar result without the need for red/IR filters and with the ability to hand hold. Not done any tests with a filter yet.

Don't use it in an automatic camera! I had a roll get stuck in my T90 and the data sheet reinforces this. Also, Lomig repurposes cans from other films then puts a heavy gauge paper sticker on it, and I think I gave up trying to fit it in my Oly 35RC. And finally, if you can load it in a dark bag, or very subdued lighting, you can get an extra couple of frames on the roll. I've had 28 out of a can before. But as the datasheet says, you should wind on 6 frames before starting. Oh and avoid using it in a camera that has any sort of light leak.
 
Asha said:
I don’t bother unless I’ve pushed the film which isn’t often or if doing the panos with the cut darkslides and need to keep tabs in which section of the film has been exposed.
Any other shooting details such as aperture, shutter speeds et ( for me) are unnecessary.
Click to expand...
You shoot more sheet film than me Asha, so I can appreciate you not recording these details. I only shoot 5x4 occasionally, so I find these details useful in helping to understand certain unexpected results!
 
I write down a brief description of the subject, film type, filters and exposure data on the dark slide. After developing I copy that to a little note book along with developing information so if I want to adjust for the next batch of soup I can.
 
Peter B said:
I find these details useful in helping to understand certain unexpected results!
Click to expand...

i just look at the négative with no notes to hand and regularly read ‘Flirked it’! :ROFLMAO:
 
Harlequin565 said:
From my *ahem* notes...

HC110 (B) 9m at 20C. Rodinal 1+50 also 9m at 20C. No real difference between the two developers that I can see as this is quite an ethereal film.

I expose this film at 400 ISO on sunny days and 200 on gloomy days. With it being very sensetive to light, I think shooting it at 100 in bright sun just gives it too much light. I have literally just pulled a roll out to develop tonight that was shot at 400 in gloom and am interested to see if that looks under exposed.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks, that's very helpful. I'm actually going to run it through a Box Brownie so I have no idea what to expect. I shall load it in the dark and seek out high contrast scenes as you suggest.

And to continue the thread Jack, when you say Rodinal, I thought you couldn't get that anymore?
 
I bought a little spiral bound notebook, and discovered oe of those IKEA pencils will fit in the spiral. I've taken it out several times... and it's still completely blank!

I did take a little portable voice recorder (dictation-type machine) out a few times when I was doing "Sunny 16" experiments. It was useful, though I was a bit self-conscious making voice notes when there were people about. Quite quick in the field but a total PITA to transcribe when I got home (needed because of the delay before getting the film developed/scanned, in a lab in those days). I also found the total freedom meant I forgot details which should have been recorded.

Now when (if) I use me 4x5 I set up a page in Evernote on my Mac before I go, listing all the darkslides with their loaded film, then add field notes on my phone for each shot. They're on my Mac when I get back. I've a feeling however that Evernote doesn't work well if there's no internet at the point of recording, though there may be other note systems that will work in such circumstances.
 
ChrisR said:
I bought a little spiral bound notebook, and discovered oe of those IKEA pencils will fit in the spiral. I've taken it out several times... and it's still completely blank!

I did take a little portable voice recorder (dictation-type machine) out a few times when I was doing "Sunny 16" experiments. It was useful, though I was a bit self-conscious making voice notes when there were people about. Quite quick in the field but a total PITA to transcribe when I got home (needed because of the delay before getting the film developed/scanned, in a lab in those days). I also found the total freedom meant I forgot details which should have been recorded.

Now when (if) I use me 4x5 I set up a page in Evernote on my Mac before I go, listing all the darkslides with their loaded film, then add field notes on my phone for each shot. They're on my Mac when I get back. I've a feeling however that Evernote doesn't work well if there's no internet at the point of recording, though there may be other note systems that will work in such circumstances.
Click to expand...
Maybe tie in with the Film Shooting Outings thread and do a selfie video on your smartphone with the details of where, when & how? Just a thought.
 
Peter B said:
Maybe tie in with the Film Shooting Outings thread and do a selfie video on your smartphone with the details of where, when & how? Just a thought.
Click to expand...

I've found that thread to be helpful quite recently when wet printing as I was struggling a bit to recall how much contrast (or more specifically lack of it) there was at the actual time of shooting.

As it turns out, looking back on the phone snapshots, the print that i have presently sat under a pile of books resembles the scene and flat light conditions very well which would be great except that it needs more contrast to make it work as photograph:banghead:

Guess what i might be doing later this evening:rolleyes:
 
Asha said:
I've found that thread to be helpful quite recently when wet printing as I was struggling a bit to recall how much contrast (or more specifically lack of it) there was at the actual time of shooting.

As it turns out, looking back on the phone snapshots, the print that i have presently sat under a pile of books resembles the scene and flat light conditions very well which would be great except that it needs more contrast to make it work as photograph:banghead:

Guess what i might be doing later this evening:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
It'll keep you out of mischief, as long as you haven't a black cat to wander around your feet in the dark. ;)
 
Harlequin565 said:
Speed Graphic, AG Photographic and Silverprint are all selling it according to Google.
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Just goes to show how out of touch I am. I've done very little film in the last couple of years and have just been using HC-110. Before that I used Fomadon R09 and real Rodinal definitely wasn't available when I bought that. I may have to treat myself. And take notes!
 
Stegosaurus said:
Its an excellent practice and I've always intended to do that but failed miserably.
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^^^ This for me, I occasionally set off with good intentions but they don't survive much further than the front door. Equally I often think that I ought to be using the zone system for exposure but can never remember what exactly I am supposed to do. In my defence I have to be quite methodical in my day job and photography for me is supposed to be relaxing and I am never going to best Ansel.

That said there are plenty of times when I get a poor negative and may be having notes would help understand why.
 
sirch said:
That said there are plenty of times when I get a poor negative and may be having notes would help understand why.
Click to expand...

I think this is the thing for me and why I do it. I'm not trying to show off or be more efficient... I just want to get predictable results from my photography and will do anything to circumvent my own self-destructive ability to FU.

Sometimes I really do wish I felt like digital was the panacea - just like many film photographers have felt. But for me, it isn't. My "proper" journey started with digital and ended with film. For me, it's like digital was playschool and film is for grown ups.
 
Harlequin565 said:
I think this is the thing for me and why I do it. I'm not trying to show off or be more efficient... I just want to get predictable results from my photography and will do anything to circumvent my own self-destructive ability to FU.

Sometimes I really do wish I felt like digital was the panacea - just like many film photographers have felt. But for me, it isn't. My "proper" journey started with digital and ended with film. For me, it's like digital was playschool and film is for grown ups.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure there are 35mm cameras with databacks that can record details of each exposure,(possibly Canons?) so that might be an idea?
 
I tried the notebook thing for a while, but I always get caught up in the moment, and forget to write anything.
 
Peter B said:
I'm pretty sure there are 35mm cameras with databacks that can record details of each exposure,(possibly Canons?) so that might be an idea?
Click to expand...
The "databacks" I remember from film days only recorded the date and splashed it prominently on the image.... . Most people hated them. If there were more sophisticated ones, I don't know where would they have recorded the data...?
 
Harlequin565 said:
Sometimes I really do wish I felt like digital was the panacea - just like many film photographers have felt.
Click to expand...
TBH I use both and probably digital more than film, they are completely different things in my head, a bit like driving a car and riding a bike. What I don't do very much is do both at once, I either shoot film or I shoot digital even though I often take a digi on a film outing as a spot meter.

Back on the note taking, I guess I don't vary from the "normal" very much, I usually shoot at box speed and process as per the massive dev chart for that developer/film/speed combo so I can probably look up what I did for a given film if I want to.
 
Stegosaurus said:
The "databacks" I remember from film days only recorded the date and splashed it prominently on the image.... . Most people hated them. If there were more sophisticated ones, I don't know where would they have recorded the data...?
Click to expand...
Two optional data backs are available for the T90. The first, the Command Back 90, both allows date and data imprinting on the photographs and also allowed various forms of time-lapse photography. The second, sold by Canon only in certain markets, is the Data Memory Back 90, which stores 16 shot variables for up to 156 exposures, or six variables for up to 338 exposures. The computer interface to the Data Memory Back 90 supports only the MSX home computer standard.[7] Third parties have adapted connectors to other computer systems.
en.wikipedia.org

Canon T90 - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
 
A note book is handy if you have many 35mm lenses to choose from as I've found some lenses might be razor sharp for a subject say 6' away but not so good at a far distance...or vice versa. :( A few months ago used a 3rd party 135mm lens for long distance shots and it was rubbish, but had tested it for near subjects, even wide open, and it was razor sharp.
With old lenses, some are better for portraiture or other subjects e.g. some old lenses have 15 blades which look better if the back ground has bright spots compared with 5 blades, and not forgetting bokeh..h'mm will I ever sort my 35mm lenses in a note book for "the right lens for the job" erm maybe :rolleyes:
 
Mike Padua (Shootfilmco.com) designed/manufactures his own Photographer Notebook, and Paul stocks them at Analogue Wonderland;

analoguewonderland.co.uk

Film Photographer's PhotoMemo Book - TWINPACK

Buy Film Photographer's PhotoMemo Book - TWINPACK from Analogue Wonderland and get fast tracked shipping to your door! The Film Photographer's PhotoMemo Book is one of the most useful items you can have in your camera bag. Each double-page spread is designed to give you all the space and prompts...
analoguewonderland.co.uk analoguewonderland.co.uk

I haven't used one myself (due to a combination of not being organised enough, and not actually shooting much film!), but those people I know who have always recommend them.
 
Peter B said:
I'm pretty sure there are 35mm cameras with databacks that can record details of each exposure,(possibly Canons?) so that might be an idea?
Click to expand...
Pentax MZ-S, the last of their professional full fat film cameras, would write exposure details somewhere out of frame (rebate? between frames?). I tried its cheaper cousin, the PZ-1, a nice camera but too much like using a digeri-thingy, all menus and dials!
 
I have a stylus on my phone so sometimes i use the phone as my notepad. Usually just to try an remember what I shot that frame at.
 
The second version of the Zeiss Contarex "Bullseye" had a built in gadget that allowed you to write details on a plastic strip which was then inserted into the camera, so that the writing was superimposed on the film as it was exposed. I'm not sure if this feature was continued in the later models.
 
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