PeteMC Can Do It... EdinburghGary Can Do It... So Why Can't I?

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April 2008
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...take pictures handheld at night! And there were cheerleaders too! Ok, so it was some local dance school, but there were festive celebrations in our local square last night so I thought I'd get some pics whilst Holly (my little girl) could sing along and wave at Santa.

It wasn't to be!

I decided I wasn't gonna let a little noise bother me. Set the camera on ISO 1600, f/2.8 on the Siggy at 24mm. Should be ok I thought. Might even get to drop the ISO to 800? Then I go to take my first shot, and the meter tells me shutterspeed 1/5. One bloody fifth! How am I supposed to handhold that? And the only action I was going to freeze would be my balls in the night air! Bloody ridiculous!

So... how do you all do it? What am I doing wrong? Shutterspeed 1/5 is about 3 to 4 stops away from where I want to be isn't it? Which would mean ISO 128000?
 
It might be metering wrong. In those situations it can be helpful to put the camera into manual and see what happens. Shutter speed to focal length.
 
I always thought it was magic... thats what you told me....


Goes to sulk feeling cheated.....:coat:
 
the force is strong with those two!
 
With night or dark scenes the metering (depending on metering mode) is typically looking at an average of the scene. As the scene is predominantly black/dark it thinks you need a slower exposure than you do.

Remember the meter is exposing for 18% grey so you need to compensate for this. I look at the part of the scene I want to meter correctly and either zoom into that and meter or spot meter or take a test shot and change shutter speed as required.

If you find that after opening the aperture and pushing the ISO that the shutter speed is still unacceptably low then look for a bin, fence post, whatever that you can use as a rest for the camera and hold the camera onto/against it. The poor mans IS :)

For static scenes the above will usually be enough. As soon as you put people into the scene then you need to try to get a shutter speed that is sufficient to minimise subject movement. If you have done the above and its still not enough then look at the scene and find places that are better lit (under street lamps etc.). Position yourself, take a few test shots to get the metering and wait for the action to come to you.

John
 
petemc said:
It might be metering wrong.
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Aha! I have finally unpacked my copy of understanding exposure (bought it back on 17th June) which I have been saving as winter reading. I feel winter is upon me. :)
 
jpwone said:
With night or dark scenes...
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That all sounds like good advice! Thanks John. It makes so much sense back in the warmth of home, and sounds obvious. :)
 
If you want to do this sort of thing a lot, you might consider trading in your Sigma 24-70 for the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS. It's an amazing lens. If you can see something, you can shoot it hand-held.

But it's probably also worth checking that your hand-holding technique is sound.
 
mmm.. very enlightening (excuse the pun) from the gurus - must try to get out in the dark and have a go.
I is it true one is less likely to have an encounter with the undead at this time of year or will I have to carry a jewelled cross *!?
 
Use Flash...
Or, Just use a tripod, unfasten everything and it's quite flexible ;)
 
As above, use manual settings and see what happens, but also, find anything you can to steady yourself and/or the camera - lean against a tree or a lamp post, rest the camera on walls or railings. With a shorter, well balanced lens such as the one you mention, its amazing how low you can hand hold, especially with just that little extra bit of stability provided by whatever is available. Oh, I can comfirm that other TP members are not stable enough for the job :lol: ;)
 
Also learn how to use your body. Figure out how to lock your legs and your body and also use your environment to help. I always find myself resting against walls or locking my knees in place to try and keep movement to a minimum. Another thing that some people do is, if you fancy taking a gamble, is hand the camera from your neck, press it gently against your body, or leave it resting against your body. That's a nice wee trick.

Hope that helps.
 
Blapto said:
What metering mode were you in? Spot meter is probably best.
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I strongly suspect that this will be the answer - use the centre focus point only and spot meter. Focus on a (reasonably) well lit area - a face for example - then re-compose as needed and fire.

You'll probably get lots of motion blur and / or OOF shots, but you should get some keepers too.

Up the ISO as high as you can and keep the aperture open as wide as you can.
 
mobilevirgin, Nikon gear can spot meter off any focus point, not just the centre one.

Also, fire in continuous high and you're more likely to get a sharp image.

That said, longer exposures will increase motion blur.
 
Got it one Blapto - use spot metering at night to meter for the important bits, you just have to let the rest do their thing.....
 
Blapto said:
mobilevirgin, Nikon gear can spot meter off any focus point, not just the centre one.

Also, fire in continuous high and you're more likely to get a sharp image.

That said, longer exposures will increase motion blur.
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Maybe it can, but he's using a Canon. Maybe a Canon can [1]. I dunno. I use the centre point on its own all the time anyway.

Good point about continuous fire - it can help sometimes to reduce shake.

[1] I'm sure you know the joke - if anyone can a Canon can ....
 
mobilevirgin said:
Maybe it can, but he's using a Canon. Maybe a Canon can [1]. I dunno. I use the centre point on its own all the time anyway.

Good point about continuous fire - it can help sometimes to reduce shake.

[1] I'm sure you know the joke - if anyone can a Canon can ....
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He is, isn't he... Not sure why I thought it was a Nikon camera we were talking about. I sound all fanboyish now.
 
I have handheld my 70-300VR @ 200mm 1/10 and got sharp results.

VR/IS/OS whatever you want to call it really comes into it's own in these situations.
 
I've usually just found breathing correctly and bracing yourself if there is anything there to use works fine.

I've never used a lens with IS/VR and cant say i've noticed many problems going down to about 1 sec at 10mm or 1/5th @ 70mm, it will usually take a few attempts.

In saying that it only works for static subjects as obviously any movement by the subject will introduce blur as well as shake from your own hands.
 
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