Pedal Power Thread

bit overkill?

for what? a complete bike came with 150mm forks. fox are too expensive, very short service and are well not very good, RS revs are not much cheaper than the pike, Manitou have not released the mattoc yet and x-fusions are too heavy with no local servicing. Bos don't do anything and are too dear anyway.

The stanchions are black FFS :D
 
from what I've read the 32mm forks are a bit flexy at that travel. it probably is more than I need but they get great reviews particularly the damping so seems silly not to get the best I could
 
so seems silly not to get the best I could

Quite right. The more riding pleasure it gives you, the more you'll ride it, the more you'll enjoy it....and there the cycle (no pun) continues.

I just hope I've made the right choice with my CX bike. It's lots of money and lots of waiting for a bike I've never sat on!
 
fitted my pikes today.

p4pb10637131.jpg


p4pb10637129.jpg


p4pb10637130.jpg
Looks good to me. I have Marzocchi All Mountain 2's on mine, travel adjust from 130mm to 150mm. They are 2006 model but still going strong. I might look into getting something a bit more "hardcore" though, I tend to go easy on my Scott Ransom because I don't trust them for the big stuff. I don't know what I'll be after though, not looked into it properly but I know I don't want triple clamp forks again. I just sold my Specialized Demo 8 which had Marzocchi 888's on and it was a nightmare lol. I'll be after with something with a similar travel as the All Mountains or around 160mm.

I've got to upgrade my rear shock as well. The equaliser shock on the Scott Ransom is just terrible for reliability. It performs well but it's like an old Skoda. I've bought a Fox DHX 5 air for it but going to modify it with a fox RP23 air can. I have to do that for more progression at the end of the travel because of the Ransoms frame set up. The leverage with the back suspension set up is just stupid. I can't remember numbers exactly but I have to have it set at about 400psi for 85kg weight. Scary stuff to have between my legs and knowing the Equaliser is unreliable lol, great bike apart from the shock though.
 
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Forgive the crappy picture it's just a quick snap. I couldn't b bothered to set everything up for a photoshoot of my bike lol. I'll get a better one on a nice day and my other bikes, they are currently in bits. The wheel on my inspired trials bike looks like a taco:rolleyes:

IMG_8062
by nunn.paul, on Flickr

Edit: Had a good first day of the kids half term so took them out in the trailer I got the other day. It's pretty good for £200 but they need to loose some weight, or I need to get fitter:rolleyes: I ended up keeping the rear shock locked out because it was easier to pull the trailer.

Some quick snaps.

IMG_8064
by nunn.paul, on Flickr


IMG_8074
by nunn.paul, on Flickr
 
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Yes the sock is very complicated and the pivot set up is no better lol. No bike shops will service it apart from Evans Cycles, which means I have to send it away. I don't fancy servicing something that's unreliable and 400+ psi. Too many pivots and bearings to go wrong but it is a good bike apart from that. The way the pivots work gives the bike a very firm feel for peddling, that mixed with the on the go adjustments you can do to the shock whilst on the move is great for climbing. Can change it from full travel, to half travel and the full lockout by a shifter on the handlebars. Going to swap it for the DHX5 air and do some modifications to handle the higher pressures. The Scott shock is known for unreliability.
 
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No riding for me this weekend.. Went to fix my busted chainring bolt and swap out the bash guard, easy peasy.. right? Dropped the crank out and zipped through the bolt head with a drill super quick time. Went to put the replacement bolts in... 2mm too long.

While they were the same length as the chocolate Shimano ones the standard SLX bash guard has a 2mm spacer whereas the Hope (yes, more Hope) bash guard does not. If anyone wants 4x black 11mm e.Thirteen torx both ends chainring bolts used only to hold the chainring and bash guard on temporarily let me know :D

Chocolate bolt


Nuts.
by neilgates, on Flickr

She is looking mighty fine these days


Trek EX5 2010
by neilgates, on Flickr

And a respectable weight


Weight - 220214
by neilgates, on Flickr
 
probably around 550-600 between the two tyres, I've got a carbon bar and my wheels are about 1650g a pair which will save about 250 over your flows
 
snap lol pre-pikes and with my semi-slicks on. was 29 when I weighed it yesterday after putting my pikes on but they were only a few grams heavier than the manitous that came off. the mountain kings added a bit

p4pb10565455.jpg

Just the frame and fork of my hardtail 24Le Toy 3 weighs just over half of your whole bike, that's not including all the components. Literally just the forks and frame lol. Not tried weighting the Scott but that still won't be the lightest. I've never really been concerned about the weight of my bikes.
 
Really helps with the up hills :)
Up hill? What is that you speak of? lol I know what you mean. When I go to bike parks with my mates we normally pay for uplift so we can get as many downhill runs as we can because we do a lot of filming, but when I was by myself I didn't bother and uphill was a nightmare with the Demo.

For the rough stuff now I'll mainly be using my Le Toy 3, that frame is near enough indestructable.
 
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Just the frame and fork of my hardtail 24Le Toy 3 weighs just over half of your whole bike, that's not including all the components. Literally just the forks and frame lol. Not tried weighting the Scott but that still won't be the lightest. I've never really been concerned about the weight of my bikes.

I'm not overly bothered about the weight of my bike per se but light wheels and tyres make a difference
 
I've never really tried riding a really light bike. I'd love to have a shot of a carbon one just to see what they're like.
 
Took the long way to work today (31km vs. 13km) via Richmond Park (1 lap of) and then through Putney etc to Victoria. Bloody glorious weather like that just couldn't be missed!
 
I have a £5 discount when you spend £50 CRC voucher that I'm not going to be able to use in the next 2 weeks before it expires.

First person to contact me with their email gets it. I have this offer open on another forum so first come first served.
 
I have a £5 discount when you spend £50 CRC voucher that I'm not going to be able to use in the next 2 weeks before it expires.

First person to contact me with their email gets it. I have this offer open on another forum so first come first served.
How do you get these vouchers? Quite a few people on bikeradar offering them aswell.
 
I've never really tried riding a really light bike. I'd love to have a shot of a carbon one just to see what they're like.

I wasn't a fan of carbon it doesn't feel right to me too stiff plus always that thought in the back of my head that it just cant stand upto the same amount of abuse. I was all set to get the carbon nomad as well. Come next frame change i may try one again as i'm starting to get over the fear of it failing having gotten carbon cranks and bars, but im still not sure its worth the extra money for it.
 
By ordering a metric poop tonne of stuff from them over a period of time would be my guess.

It says "you've earned" on the voucher so more than likely that.

Yep, that's the way...

though I did also get a couple dropped in my next order when I was really honest and informed them that rather than the 1 pair of shimano cleats I'd ordered and been charged for, they'd picked, packed and despatched a "Outer" box of them - i.e. 20 pairs. They organised collection, sent me a £30 voucher that wasn't time limited, and the next 3 orders I placed all had a "£10 discount on a spend of over £75 in the next 2 weeks" voucher in there. Which came in rather handy, as at the time I was building up the Dolan, so they all got used.
 
Leg intensive PT and a hard week have left me with aching, painful thighs. Ouch. Commute in was a mere trundle. My planned cycle tomorrow may have to be put off and I think I will just pop to pearson's instead and discuss saddles and ogle bike porn.
 
New Fizik Aliante VSX saddle on the commuter today. Cycled it home from my parents- felt quite different. Same position as old saddle but sits a couple of mm higher. Seemed to put me in a better position and I felt like I was flying along and less hunched. Also not as slippery as the old one.
 
These damned winds are beginning to wear a little thin now... Just once, I'd like to be able to actually go out and not have to push 300W to keep moving on the flat!
 
These damned winds are beginning to wear a little thin now... Just once, I'd like to be able to actually go out and not have to push 300W to keep moving on the flat!
Have to agree. Even the commutes are no fun. You get a nice tailwind one way (sometimes) and then struggle the other way. Could do with spring and less wind!
 
I've been having a bit of a problem with my Stages Powermeter. Along with quite a few others, according to my research on the 'net, it seems that some of the early examples of the powermeters were - how shall I put it... a little susceptible to water ingress. I had a couple of problems. Initially, the meter worked great, right until the first battery ran out - after that, I had problems pairing it over the Bluetooth (essential for the regular firmware updates they were issuing) and its appetite for 2032 cells became worse than a Room Full of moderators with a case of :jaffa:'s - In one case I fitted a cell (brand new Duracell, 3.34v tested before fitting) at 10:00am prior to a ride, went out and did maybe 80km, and the following day at 10:45am got the bike out for a ride and it was showing low-battery on the Garmin. Half way around a 40km ride, the power meter stopped reading and when I returned home the cell was under 2.4v - flatter than a flat thing. This was just before I went away for a few days at christmas, so I left the cell out of the meter, and re-fitted another fresh cell 5 days later. This cell worked fine for a good 2.5 months until my next really driech ride. Next day - flat again. Refit new cell, flat next day.

So, I did a bit of research, found quite a few people had the same problem, and contacted Stages. After an initial few days delay on the email answering front, they agreed there was a problem, put a crank directly into production for me that day (rather than waiting for a scheduled build or taking a chance on old stock build that may have had a similar problem to the first crank) and within 2 working days it was on it's way to the UK distributor, who basically tested it again, packaged it up, emailed me to say it was on it's way and it arrived yesterday (with a note to say send the old crank back once your happy with the new one) - 4 working days from confirmation of warranty - not so bad really - considering my mate's got a powertap wheel (well - two actually - a training wheel and a deep profile TT one) , it generally goes through at least one "torque tube" a year, and every time it needs repair, he's without a wheel for several weeks - they're out of warranty now, and he's basically bought a Stages instead, as its about the same cash as one years worth of repairs and shipping on the powertaps...
 
Ahhh the pedal thread :),

Just built my first full Sus, so smooth does take out a lot of the lumps & bumps.


Untitled
by Kiteninja (Morgan Lee), on Flickr

Just shy shy of 12KGs :).


Its been added to my collection racking me up to 5 bikes (7 if I put some back together).
 
cycled to work yesterday and it was a real struggle and have no idea why...like I had no power in legs at all...
coming back was better.

on my way home today, I hope I wont fell off bike as am dead tired....

oh, and finally I own my ribble as last payment on finance was made last month ;D
that means bigger saving on commute ;)
 
I wasn't a fan of carbon it doesn't feel right to me too stiff plus always that thought in the back of my head that it just cant stand upto the same amount of abuse. I was all set to get the carbon nomad as well. Come next frame change i may try one again as i'm starting to get over the fear of it failing having gotten carbon cranks and bars, but im still not sure its worth the extra money for it.


check this vid

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/243228/
 
Any recommendations for a comfy saddle? My road bike i bought last year is lovely but the saddle is too damn uncomfortable. Did just 6 miles the other week and for the next day or 2 I felt like I have a bruised bum!!! Saddle is a proper road one (i.e. hard). Am assuming that getting a comfy saddle will help a lot?
 
Any recommendations for a comfy saddle? My road bike i bought last year is lovely but the saddle is too damn uncomfortable. Did just 6 miles the other week and for the next day or 2 I felt like I have a bruised bum!!! Saddle is a proper road one (i.e. hard). Am assuming that getting a comfy saddle will help a lot?

Its the exact opposite,the more padding the worse it gets generally. Get down to a bike shop and get measured up for a saddle. The sit bone position is vital.
 
Any recommendations for a comfy saddle? My road bike i bought last year is lovely but the saddle is too damn uncomfortable. Did just 6 miles the other week and for the next day or 2 I felt like I have a bruised bum!!! Saddle is a proper road one (i.e. hard). Am assuming that getting a comfy saddle will help a lot?

it's as impossible to recommend a saddle as it is a pair of prescription spectacles tbh. 2 people of identical height, build, flexibility and weight can find the same saddle fits them perfectly, or is an instrument of torture.

There ARE a few things you can do though - if you're a flexible build, you are probably more likely to get on well with one of the longer flatter harder saddles like the Fizik Arione - where you sit "on" it and slide foreward or aft as you move position on the handlebars. For less flexible people, a saddle with a more pronounced "dip" in the middle, where you sit "in" it and stay in one position generally works better.

Also, there are different widths of saddle - some Stores that sell Specialized bikes and spares have a device for measuring the width of your "sit bones" - sounds high tech, but actually its a bit of hardboard with some low speed rebound rubber on it, called an "arse-o-meter" - you sit on it then get off and the dips from the bones point to the width of saddle you'll need.

One thing that's pretty much certain. If you are going to ride more than a couple of miles DON'T get some great big padded sofa, it'll make you sweat, chafe and rub you red-raw within 40 minutes, and you'll probably never get on the bike again.

The other thing is, if you don't ride regularly, you will "feel it" a bit when you get back on the bike - riding a bike kind of conditions the muscles in and around your backside, and it's these muscles that "lift the bones" away from the saddle a bit - when you're out of condition, the muscles are out of tone, and they do get a bit bruised and sore initially.

I've got a drawer in the Bike Cave of different saddles that I've tried, rejected or liked, then didn't get on with as I lost weight last year - there's something like 5 of the damned things, they're all worn and unpleasant enough that I don't dare sell 'em. Most keen riders are in the same position - maybe a local mate of yours could loan you something to try out ?
 
it's as impossible to recommend a saddle as it is a pair of prescription spectacles tbh. 2 people of identical height, build, flexibility and weight can find the same saddle fits them perfectly, or is an instrument of torture.

There ARE a few things you can do though - if you're a flexible build, you are probably more likely to get on well with one of the longer flatter harder saddles like the Fizik Arione - where you sit "on" it and slide foreward or aft as you move position on the handlebars. For less flexible people, a saddle with a more pronounced "dip" in the middle, where you sit "in" it and stay in one position generally works better.

Also, there are different widths of saddle - some Stores that sell Specialized bikes and spares have a device for measuring the width of your "sit bones" - sounds high tech, but actually its a bit of hardboard with some low speed rebound rubber on it, called an "arse-o-meter" - you sit on it then get off and the dips from the bones point to the width of saddle you'll need.

One thing that's pretty much certain. If you are going to ride more than a couple of miles DON'T get some great big padded sofa, it'll make you sweat, chafe and rub you red-raw within 40 minutes, and you'll probably never get on the bike again.

The other thing is, if you don't ride regularly, you will "feel it" a bit when you get back on the bike - riding a bike kind of conditions the muscles in and around your backside, and it's these muscles that "lift the bones" away from the saddle a bit - when you're out of condition, the muscles are out of tone, and they do get a bit bruised and sore initially.

I've got a drawer in the Bike Cave of different saddles that I've tried, rejected or liked, then didn't get on with as I lost weight last year - there's something like 5 of the damned things, they're all worn and unpleasant enough that I don't dare sell 'em. Most keen riders are in the same position - maybe a local mate of yours could loan you something to try out ?

My last bike was a MTB with a 'normal' saddle which was realtively comfy - I normally only do 3 miles to the next village then 3 miles back, every now and again I may do 6 or so into town but never had a problem with sweat and stuff then. I just do 'social' biking so wear jeans etc... rather than the gear!
 
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