Pedal Power Thread

had a first attempt at the rollers today.. was interesting but good, got the hang pretty quickly and definitely going to be useful for horrid dark days and on call time..

learned a few things:

1) don't lean, steer to move along the roller
2) door frames are good for the first few attempts but quickly become elbow scuffing hell
3) the faster you go the more chance there is of staying upright
4) I need new riding shoes
5) the trek looks awful running slicks.. :shake:


On the rollers by neilgates, on Flickr
 
TheBigYin said:
Roadbike gets Purple Extreme, MTB gets Finish Line Wet Lube

(dry lube because it's cleaner and pretty much invisible, wet lube because if needed you can re-apply mid-ride and it's still effective - the dry-lubes need to "set up" overnight ideally)
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/finish-line-ceramic-wet-lubricant-120ml-bottle/
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Well I stripped the drive train completely on the hunt for a squeak, I think it was coming from a jockey wheel so got them apart and greased the bearing. The chainrings were gunked so they got degreased (tried GT85 vs WD40, GT85 was in a different league using my non-scientific testing methods for degreasing :thumbs:). Lubed the chain up with the Finish Line Wet Ceramic and give it a spin on the turbo. I think its the quietest the bike has been, just the hum from the turbo, feels a lot smoother and cadence and ave speed increased with no perceived additional effort.

I had been neglecting the drivetrain tbh, so if anyone else has been you might be surprised with the results after a good strip/clean and quality lube.
 
Yeah I got the GT85 originally as a lube for my Rapidfires, the grease had dried out and the pawl was stuck. Apparently that is a common cause of grief with those shifters after a number of years. Anyway I got that going at the time with what I had at hand at the time, WD40 to degrease it and Silicone spray.

I've used WD40 as a degreaser on oil and tar spots and was intending to use that on the chainrings which were off the bike and disassembled. Just out of curiosity I tried the GT85 and the crude flushed off the chainrings - the WD40 required more rag.

I've been using a diluted Gunk Green as an official degreaser on the disassembled drivetrain.
 
Last night, in the spirit of spring and partly inspired by this thread, I decided it was time I took my chain off and gave it a thorough soak instead of the usual wipe down it gets whilst still wet on the bike. Chain off and in a bucket of warm, soapy water scrubbing away furiously with a toothbrush and I'm thinking to myself this is barely worth the cost of a new £20 chain. Anyway, fast forward to a chain sparkling but not quite like new and nicely dried off it comes to reinstalling it. After a bit of a fiddling and more pressure than seemed necessary the chain tool suddenly slipped free. On closer inspection it became apparent part of the pin had sheered off under the pressure. A quick google later and I see that the pins for this particular chain are single-use affairs that can be fitted and removed once, but not reinserted thereafter. After a bit of cursing the logic behind a single-use master link pin I decided that a quick-link was probably the way forward. A little look on my favourite Wiggle and I see it's £8 compared to £21 for a new chain with quick-link after 40% off. Now I'm sat here waiting for a new chain to hopefully arrive tomorrow, along with some proper degreaser, a cassette tool and a chain whip so that the cassette can get a proper clean too.

I also have a suspicion that my bottom bracket could well have a dodgy bearing because of some noise I can hear that seems to be coming from that direction whilst peddling a low gear. Annoyingly I can't reproduce the sound turning the cranks with my hands so I'm rather limited in getting my ear close to the sound whilst I'm required to be peddling!

Yeah, yesterday was one of those days :bonk:
 
So you're getting a shiney new chain and some new tools? Result! ;)
 
rip the BB out and get a nice SLX hollowtech crankset :D

remember you should really replace chain and cassette together.. you might find the new chain slips on the worn cassette.
 
^^^I'm not sure that's true...depends on how long you're casettes been on...i reckon i'll do a chain change 3 times in one year (around 5000 miles a year approx) i hope i dont have to change my casette everytime or this could become costly!!!....but i know what your saying about chain slip.
 
danmon_81 said:
^^^I'm not sure that's true...depends on how long you're casettes been on...i reckon i'll do a chain change 3 times in one year (around 5000 miles a year approx) i hope i dont have to change my casette everytime or this could become costly!!!....but i know what your saying about chain slip.
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if youve done a handful of miles then it'll probably be fine. but chains stretch and cassette cogs wear, replace one without the other (if wear has occurred) and you'll get the chain slipping on the cogs.

just something to watch if it starts slipping.
 
Got my edge 800 today. Set up with maps and all worked well. Have joined up to garmin connect, although importing into strava is also very easy.
 
So to improve on hills, are you better to hit small hills as fast as possible or try a steady pace over a longer distance, or something else entirely, or both?

I have really steep road very near me and could head up and down repeatedly, and would only be a minute if I destroy myself to get home, but plenty of slightly higher hills in SE London as well.
 
if anyones interested i have a £10 voucher for CRC if you spend over £75. valid for 2 weeks if anyones interested then PM me and i will send you the code
 
akr said:
So to improve on hills, are you better to hit small hills as fast as possible or try a steady pace over a longer distance, or something else entirely, or both?

I have really steep road very near me and could head up and down repeatedly, and would only be a minute if I destroy myself to get home, but plenty of slightly higher hills in SE London as well.
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I like to vary the hills I do with some short and steep climbs and some gentler but longer climbs. Both are slightly different disciplines; the former is a very high watt output for a fairly short length of time, whilst the latter is a more moderate intensity that is maintained for long periods. Keep mixing it up and it'll make you a more well rounded rider as well as preventing you from hating the sight of that hill which you go up and down seemingly endlessly. Variety is the spice of life :)
 
Weight is the key to hills. I think in Tyler Hamilton's book he says he'd rather lose 3kgs than dope up to the highest allowed hematocrit level. Can't quote it though as borrowed the book from the library.
 
scelator703 said:
Weight is the key to hills. I think in Tyler Hamilton's book he says he'd rather lose 3kgs than dope up to the highest allowed hematocrit level. Can't quote it though as borrowed the book from the library.
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Didn't stop the dirty cheat doping though! :bat:
 
Having gear problems. Am ok changing up gears on the cassette. Ok going down to highest gear (ie the fastest) but shifting down is more problematic. Sometimes it sticks on the gear it was on and others it will change. Sometimes I have to shift down 2 and then up 1 to get the gear I want. I have adjusted the h and l screws on the back derallieur but with no real improvement.

Any ideas?
 
menthel said:
Having gear problems. Am ok changing up gears on the cassette. Ok going down to highest gear (ie the fastest) but shifting down is more problematic. Sometimes it sticks on the gear it was on and others it will change. Sometimes I have to shift down 2 and then up 1 to get the gear I want. I have adjusted the h and l screws on the back derallieur but with no real improvement.

Any ideas?
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Any bumps/falls/odd noises that stand out in your head? Inspect the cassette teeth for bent/broken teeth, and the derailleur for any damage. Hard to say much more without seeing it for myself.
 
TriggerHappy said:
I like to vary the hills I do with some short and steep climbs and some gentler but longer climbs. Both are slightly different disciplines; the former is a very high watt output for a fairly short length of time, whilst the latter is a more moderate intensity that is maintained for long periods. Keep mixing it up and it'll make you a more well rounded rider as well as preventing you from hating the sight of that hill which you go up and down seemingly endlessly. Variety is the spice of life :)
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Thanks Jamie. After 4 weeks of going up Peckham Rye (which most of you would term a gentle slope) I'm finally at the stage where I can attempt to go up it in some form of attack mode. It's just got me thinking I should start tackling something a bit harder. I'll give both a go and see how I get on :help:

Edit - meant to ask - for the shorter climbs, do you tend to stand when taking them on or is it better to sit and suffer to get the long-term benefit?
 
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scelator703 said:
Weight is the key to hills. I think in Tyler Hamilton's book he says he'd rather lose 3kgs than dope up to the highest allowed hematocrit level. Can't quote it though as borrowed the book from the library.
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Well I'm about 94kgs \ 14.5 stone at present and should be around 12 stone or under (at least that was my fit weight back in my 20s).

I have however lost 2kgs so far I think, so by 2015 I may reach my target weight!
 
menthel said:
Having gear problems. Am ok changing up gears on the cassette. Ok going down to highest gear (ie the fastest) but shifting down is more problematic. Sometimes it sticks on the gear it was on and others it will change. Sometimes I have to shift down 2 and then up 1 to get the gear I want. I have adjusted the h and l screws on the back derallieur but with no real improvement.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Sounds like it could be as simple as a little cable stretch affecting the indexing - there should be cable tension adjusters on the deraileur - tighten the cable one "detent" and re-try...

assuming its shimano gears, try the techdocs.shimano.com website and grab the .pdf manual for the rear mechanism, which has instructions on how to set up the indexing...

if there are exposed runs of "inner" cable, you could also give it a quick squirt with GT40 to make the cables run a little free-er...

reason I think it may be the indexing though is that the rear mech goes to the smaller cogs via its internal spring power, where the other direction is via cable pull *





*(yes... for the pedants... I know there are some rear mech's that work the opposite direction - i've got one on my little red inbred as it happens!)
 
SPD Shoes \ Pedals \ Road bike update.

So I've been riding in these (mountain bike SPDs) for about 4 weeks now - and I'm wondering why I never used them before. I was worried about them for the commute with the red lights every 50 metres, but it's just very natural now getting the foot in and out.

I find the ability to maintain the same pace and accelerate smoothly has increased dramatically. When I wanted to keep up or overtake people previously I felt I had to accelerate to get past and then relax after, whilst now I can just power past maintaining a steadily accelerating pace. Smooth I guess would be the best word.

I would recommend them to anyone who is steady on their bike and conditioned to traffic if commuting in town.

Also really enjoying the road bike for commuting and comfortable with the position now compared to the hybrid. Never really use the drops though, and riding on the hoods the only slight worry I have sometimes is breaking in time when people \ taxis pull out of no-where. I suspect with SPDs on the old Hybrid would have helped a lot, but I really enjoy riding the road bike, and most importantly I think it looks nice which makes we want to take it out.

I'm still pretty slow mind you, but getting there....and not longer getting overtaken by people on Boris bikes :)
 
Thanks all. Will pull out the manuals etc and work from there.

As for spd pedals etc, not sure I would do without them either! I even cycled to the cinema in the shoes today and wandered round happily. My ones are very comfy!

Edit: Good old park tools seem to have a nice guide. Looks like my job for Sunday is a full adjustment of the rear derailleur!

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur
 
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menthel said:
Having gear problems. Am ok changing up gears on the cassette. Ok going down to highest gear (ie the fastest) but shifting down is more problematic. Sometimes it sticks on the gear it was on and others it will change. Sometimes I have to shift down 2 and then up 1 to get the gear I want. I have adjusted the h and l screws on the back derallieur but with no real improvement.

Any ideas?
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Does sound like slack cable, you could just use the adjuster on the shifter to apply some tension. Or drop it into the smallest cog, undo the cable bolt on the derailleur and pull it taut and do the bolt back up.

Edit - beaten
 
I will be giving it a good going over on Sunday hopefully. The disc brakes also seem to have a little slack in them but they are mechanical rather than hydraulic so it is just a matter of a little tweaking.
 
Well - apparently it seems I've always been a bit of a geek when it comes to the bike...

Found this little beauty in the big box of old bike stuff last night whilst rummaging for a toe-clip strap...


Avocet Altimeter 50 Cycle Computer. by The Big Yin, on Flickr

Avocet Altimeter 50 Cycle Computer.
Current/Average/Max. Speed, Trip and Total Distance, Cadence, Stopwatch, Clock, Altitude, Trip and Total Climb/Descent - this was pretty much state of the art for the early/mid 90's... I've got it's baby brother somewhere too... the Avocet 30.
Batteries were dead - one had leaked a little, but nothing a little white vinegar couldn't disperse and clean up. New batteries installed and amazingly enough it works. There's even a couple of the wiring harnesses under the mountainous packaging... Just the thing for one of my old retro bikes I reckon :-)
 
Definitely sounds like an indexing issue on that rear mech. A bit more tension on the cable and a few minutes altering the adjuster should see that right.

As for climbing. There in no right or wrong way of tackling them. But weight is certainly a major factor in getting up them efficiently. I have intentionally shed 7kgs in 7 months to make my hill climbing better. I'm 5'9" and 70kgs with a high power to weight ratio, nothing more satisfying then getting to the top first on a club run.

The best advice for climbing I can give is find YOUR rhythm and what works for YOU. The more you climb the more you will know about how your body can handle certain gradients and distances.

Remember that sitting back on the saddle employs the glutes and hamstrings more. Siting forward or standing up hits the quads and calf. Try not to pull on the handle bars, this means your body is tense and less efficient, gently hold the tops or drape your wrists over them Wiggo style. Keep your torso in a more upright position, don't slump, to keep your diaphragm and your lungs free to suck in more air. Happy climbing!!
 
I am not sure I will ever be happy climbing! ;)

I might try taking a few bits off the bike to drop a little weight though. I am sure having a solid d lock on the frame doesn't help! If I could shed another 10kg that would be great but having already lost 40kg it does get a little tricky!
 
danmon_81 said:
Big ride this sunday...90+ miles up to Trough of bowland...by far my biggest ride ever! Time to start Carbo loading!!!!
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I have been carbo loading for years in preparation for such a ride, I am well ahead of you there already!

Good luck - is this sportive as such or a club ride?
 
MG TF 135 said:
As for climbing. There in no right or wrong way of tackling them. But weight is certainly a major factor in getting up them efficiently. I have intentionally shed 7kgs in 7 months to make my hill climbing better. I'm 5'9" and 70kgs with a high power to weight ratio, nothing more satisfying then getting to the top first on a club run.

The best advice for climbing I can give is find YOUR rhythm and what works for YOU. The more you climb the more you will know about how your body can handle certain gradients and distances.

Remember that sitting back on the saddle employs the glutes and hamstrings more. Siting forward or standing up hits the quads and calf. Try not to pull on the handle bars, this means your body is tense and less efficient, gently hold the tops or drape your wrists over them Wiggo style. Keep your torso in a more upright position, don't slump, to keep your diaphragm and your lungs free to suck in more air. Happy climbing!!
Click to expand...

Thanks Martyn, I'll see how I go. I have certainly been guilty in the past on the handlebars. My current climbing rhythm is very similar to by dancing rhythm - poor, but there is hope on the former!

menthel said:
I am not sure I will ever be happy climbing! ;)

I might try taking a few bits off the bike to drop a little weight though. I am sure having a solid d lock on the frame doesn't help! If I could shed another 10kg that would be great but having already lost 40kg it does get a little tricky!
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40kg, good going :thumbs:
 
menthel said:
I am not sure I will ever be happy climbing! ;)

I might try taking a few bits off the bike to drop a little weight though. I am sure having a solid d lock on the frame doesn't help! If I could shed another 10kg that would be great but having already lost 40kg it does get a little tricky!
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Very true, I now leave mine locked to the bike racks at work so I don't have to carry it around (and I've got a spare at home if I need to pop out at the weekend).
 
akr said:
40kg, good going :thumbs:
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Has taken about 3 years but I am now literally 2/3 of the man I used to be! ;)

TopBanana said:
Very true, I now leave mine locked to the bike racks at work so I don't have to carry it around (and I've got a spare at home if I need to pop out at the weekend).
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It is a lump but my bike has to live outside at home so I need a lock there anyway. (I don't want it to live outside and this is partly why I haven't splurged on a proper roadie yet but such are the joys of the west London housing market and what you get for your money!)
 
danmon_81 said:
Big ride this sunday...90+ miles up to Trough of bowland...by far my biggest ride ever! Time to start Carbo loading!!!!
Click to expand...

Out of interest Dan, what would you diet be in the build up to a ride like this?
 
MG TF 135 said:
Definitely sounds like an indexing issue on that rear mech. A bit more tension on the cable and a few minutes altering the adjuster should see that right.

As for climbing. There in no right or wrong way of tackling them. But weight is certainly a major factor in getting up them efficiently. I have intentionally shed 7kgs in 7 months to make my hill climbing better. I'm 5'9" and 70kgs with a high power to weight ratio, nothing more satisfying then getting to the top first on a club run.

The best advice for climbing I can give is find YOUR rhythm and what works for YOU. The more you climb the more you will know about how your body can handle certain gradients and distances.

Remember that sitting back on the saddle employs the glutes and hamstrings more. Siting forward or standing up hits the quads and calf. Try not to pull on the handle bars, this means your body is tense and less efficient, gently hold the tops or drape your wrists over them Wiggo style. Keep your torso in a more upright position, don't slump, to keep your diaphragm and your lungs free to suck in more air. Happy climbing!!
Click to expand...

Thats some great advise....i've now dropped around 6kg (16.10 stone to 15.5 ish) since i started last May...the majority has been in the last few months...its made a huge difference to my riding. i'm now 98kg and people on club ride have said how much my hills have improved...a new bike and increased fitness has helped but ultimately i'm putting it down to weight loss.

akr said:
I have been carbo loading for years in preparation for such a ride, I am well ahead of you there already!

Good luck - is this sportive as such or a club ride?
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Its a club ride...1st big one of the year.

Nikon_Nick said:
Out of interest Dan, what would you diet be in the build up to a ride like this?
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I'm on a bit of a reduced calorie diet anyway to loose some weight but............

As its my 1st big one i can only go off what i know my body responds to so:

Friday (tonight)...Pasta time plenty of it....i know it takes a day or 2 for it to start realising energy, hopefully in time for the 1st bit of the race...

Saturday...normal eating...something carb related on sat night...some crumpets and honey or soreen for supper

Sunday (ride morning)...up early...beetroot shot...bowl of porridge, honey, dried fruit...bit of soreen.

During ride (this is the bit i'm going into blind)...soreen with jam in pocket...Homemade banana/ fruit cake or Nutrigrain bars....Zipfit energy chews and carb drink (with extra satchets)....maybe some jelly babies.....I dont like cycling energy bars, they dont agree with me

There'll be a cafe stop too....my aim isnt to go the quickest but just to do the miles (i'm hoping to do 100).

Any tips greatly apprectiated...i'll be hydrating loads before and obviously during.

For anyone looking to loose weight my big tip is cut out bread!!!
 
TheBigYin said:
Well - apparently it seems I've always been a bit of a geek when it comes to the bike...

Found this little beauty in the big box of old bike stuff last night whilst rummaging for a toe-clip strap...


Avocet Altimeter 50 Cycle Computer. by The Big Yin, on Flickr

Avocet Altimeter 50 Cycle Computer.
Current/Average/Max. Speed, Trip and Total Distance, Cadence, Stopwatch, Clock, Altitude, Trip and Total Climb/Descent - this was pretty much state of the art for the early/mid 90's... I've got it's baby brother somewhere too... the Avocet 30.
Batteries were dead - one had leaked a little, but nothing a little white vinegar couldn't disperse and clean up. New batteries installed and amazingly enough it works. There's even a couple of the wiring harnesses under the mountainous packaging... Just the thing for one of my old retro bikes I reckon :-)
Click to expand...

That packaging is amazing!

My new chain arrived today. I fitted it only to find somehow my gears are all out of alignment. Not sure how that came to be considering I hadn't touched anything that should have changed things. I had the cassette off and degreased the rear derailleur without removing it so very strange that things should have changed so drastically. Oddly the extremes of the cassette were fine, but the centre of the cassette was way out and catching neighbouring gears horribly. 45 minutes of fiddling with the cable tension and higher/lower screws seems to have it pretty much there but I'm still slightly confused how it all happened. I've had plenty of experience tweaking alignment as the cables stretch etc. on various bikes but never had such a problem getting things right, particularly in the middle of the cassette. At this stage the 15/16-tooth rings can still be a bit hit and miss when coming back up from the smallest ring, though indexing down from big to small has worked flawlessly from the off. Very frustrating!
 
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