Paterson Rotary Colour Print Processor For Sheet Film

steveo_mcg

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I've just purchased one of these Rotary Colour Print Processor, its designed for 8x10 prints and its got a nice hand crank on the side. I figured I could probably use it for sheet film and save a little on chemicals but also not have to continue scratching negatives with hair ties (taco). Any one else tried it? I reckon I can use it similarly to a tank for agitation so I hopefully wont be standing around for 10 minutes cranking the handle...
 
good for black and white, unusable for E6. Apparently usable for regualr colour film although i havnt tried. Its all down to temperature management, the small amounts of liquids lose heat pretty rapidly when swilled about in the tray.
 
Cool, I'm waaaaay off putting velvia through the Arca. Do you rotate it constantly?
 
My Paterson colour print processor had a motor to drive the drum (as well as a handle)...worked on batteries but I converted it to use an adapter to plug into the mains. Paterson ruined my photography in that I was happy chugging away doing my colour dev and printing when they discontinued my favourite dev and printing chemicals, and I was so p**sed off gave up MF photography and threw everything away except the enlarger.
BTW the very large cylindrical drums are very handy for doing very large B\W prints...just put the chemicals in and roll the drum on a table.
 
That's an excellent point, I'd only need a small dark area for an elarger and the wet work could be done in the bathroom like film.
 
Tank arrived, only needs 55ml of soup to do an 8x10 print! I take it this will only work with constant agitation?
 
ahh sorry then, my reply was under the assumption it was an orbital.
 
Loaded a couple of sheets of scrap film in for a test. The holding container will hold 150 ml so that's the max soup I can use, with constant agitation I understand this will be fine.

Rodinal, my usual concentrate, won't work but I have a packet of d76 I can mix up and use probably neat and keep the rodinal for roll film at the moment.
 
We'll been using this fairly successfully for a while now, but it's started leaking like hell. Not sure if I should try to work out some way of better sealing or just junk it and try something else. It wasn't bad but losing half the fluid over a session is a bit of a pest...
 
We'll been using this fairly successfully for a while now, but it's started leaking like hell. Not sure if I should try to work out some way of better sealing or just junk it and try something else. It wasn't bad but losing half the fluid over a session is a bit of a pest...

Without more explanation, i have no idea where the leaks are but for the sake of a few quid, could you reseal it with a tube of silicon sealant like what you would use around a shower cubicle??
 
Without more explanation, i have no idea where the leaks are but for the sake of a few quid, could you reseal it with a tube of silicon sealant like what you would use around a shower cubicle??

Its leaking from the top round the thread, thinking about adding some ptfe tape. Don't know what has happened to it tbh, it was working the time before last. I think the answer is jobo.
 
if it's seeping through a thread then ptfe should work fine. Worth a try imo
 
Half a roll of PFTE later and its down to dribbling again, buys me some time at least...
 
Half a roll of PFTE later and its down to dribbling again, buys me some time at least...

H'mm IIRC mine was a tight push fit for both ends...but that white plumbers tape should work as long as you are not unscrewing and screwing...always use it on water joints and is great stuff, all you have to do is make sure you put the tape on the threads correctly i.e. it is not unwinding as you put the cap on.
 
Self amalgamating tape is quite good as well. It's very thick. If it's leaking from something you want to undo and do up again each time then it won't be much good.

Right sized washers might also help if it is leaking from somewhere where two surfaces are screwed together.
 
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