"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

I think he did have it on spot focus.
Where is the focus point on the screen? Did his nose touch the screen and move the focus point to a corner or well away from what he wanted to focus on?
(very common, I turn the touch screen off unless I want to use it C menu page 5+6)


On page 2 of the REC menu
Focus mode AFS
Q, AF OFF
Metering mode As needed for subject ( you can adjust the area size)

On page 3 of custom menu
FOCUS PRIORITY ON this will prevent the shutter firing if focus is not achieved


Let him try one of your lenses, just to discount a lens problem.


Try a reset of the camera, there may be a change that won't reverse (haven't heard about any on the G3) or even made and forgotten about.

Taking towards the sun without a lens hood might also cause it occasionally, but if focus priority is set to on, it won't take the shot, so then he will know there is an issue to address.
 
He's had the same issue on multiple subjects, and the images repeatedly come out blurred.
He's a very experienced photographer, switched from his Nikon when his eyes got too bad to use the diopter range and wanted the flippy screen.

No idea then. Maybe you could grab the camera off him and give it a go?

There's shutter speed and photographer stability potentially too I suppose and good old shutter shock if that model is indeed affected. As these things take their focus off the sensor it's difficult to know what his problem is.
 
Where is the focus point on the screen? Did his nose touch the screen and move the focus point to a corner or well away from what he wanted to focus on?
(very common, I turn the touch screen off unless I want to use it C menu page 5+6)

I don't know if this is relevant to other Lumix models, but ...

I have my GX80 configured so the single AF point can't be moved until the Fn1 button is pushed.

Fn1 will highlight it, DISP button will centralise it, shutter button will lock it.

Useful tip, but perhaps not for everyone.
 
I don't know if this is relevant to other Lumix models, but ...

I have my GX80 configured so the single AF point can't be moved until the Fn1 button is pushed.

Fn1 will highlight it, DISP button will centralise it, shutter button will lock it.

Useful tip, but perhaps not for everyone.
Me too, on the GX9. I was constantly frustrated by the focus point not staying where I put it. I’m not a great fan of touch screens, though they do have their place.
 
I found changing the touch af setting to offset made it stay put without a deliberate action.
 
I found changing the touch af setting to offset made it stay put without a deliberate action.
Had no effect on mine. Still had wonderlust
 
A couple of G100 and Oly 17mm f1.8 snaps.

Making oat and nut cakes, which are delicious :D

6pftL4w.jpg


In the garden.

D4sAHS9.jpg


A late rose. In past years we've still had a rose or two at Christmas so I'm hoping for late bloomers.

1I7AM5I.jpg
 
Tried to use the G80 today to make a guitar video - it's a "selfie" so I needed the camera's fully articulated screen. Alas, every time I was halfway through a good take the camera popped up the "Please turn the camera off and on again" message. I mean every time. It almost went out the window... In the end I filmed the song on my GX85 - without the articulating screen which made it more awkward. I think it's helped me make up my mind that a G9 will be on the cards, just got to wait and see what our new PM comes up with around energy bills, first.
 
Tried to use the G80 today to make a guitar video - it's a "selfie" so I needed the camera's fully articulated screen. Alas, every time I was halfway through a good take the camera popped up the "Please turn the camera off and on again" message. I mean every time. It almost went out the window... In the end I filmed the song on my GX85 - without the articulating screen which made it more awkward. I think it's helped me make up my mind that a G9 will be on the cards, just got to wait and see what our new PM comes up with around energy bills, first.

Is that normal for the camera? maybe because of a heat build up issue in video?
 
No, it's an intermittent fault. The camera is all I need - a G80 is better than I'll ever be - but this example has all sorts of issues. I've lived with the faults and breakages for a few years but patience is wearing thin.
Thats rotten luck if you have a "friday" sample.
My g80 has been bullet proof so far. ( Fingers crossed. )
 
No, it's an intermittent fault. The camera is all I need - a G80 is better than I'll ever be - but this example has all sorts of issues. I've lived with the faults and breakages for a few years but patience is wearing thin.

Thats rotten luck if you have a "friday" sample.
My g80 has been bullet proof so far. ( Fingers crossed. )
This is encouraging. As an inexperienced photographer who bought a G80 it's good to hear people singing it's praises. One of my weaknesses is always doubting my choices and thinking something else will be better, probably just me that needs to get better and start appreciating what I've got.
 
I don't know if this is relevant to other Lumix models, but ...

I have my GX80 configured so the single AF point can't be moved until the Fn1 button is pushed.

Fn1 will highlight it, DISP button will centralise it, shutter button will lock it.

Useful tip, but perhaps not for everyone.
Oooh that's a good tip, I bet I could do that on the G80.
I switch the touch screen off as I very rarely need it and my nose doesn't shift the focus that way.
I have to be honest and say I haven't played with any shortcuts yet, then again I don't change much and find the standard buttons enough, I'm a simple chap.
There's loads on the G80 I haven't even touched, but as I've only had it a few months I don't feel ready.
 
No, it's an intermittent fault. The camera is all I need - a G80 is better than I'll ever be - but this example has all sorts of issues. I've lived with the faults and breakages for a few years but patience is wearing thin.

Ah, bad luck. Could a repair be worthwhile?

I bought a GM5 which had a fault and I was surprised how reasonable the repair price was.
 
This is encouraging. As an inexperienced photographer who bought a G80 it's good to hear people singing it's praises. One of my weaknesses is always doubting my choices and thinking something else will be better, probably just me that needs to get better and start appreciating what I've got.


That is a very valid point.
A new/better camera will make no instant difference to your photos, unless the lack of the improvements you would get with it is negatively affection your photos!

However, it may open up new possibilities as you grow into the improved features or performance, and importantly it may relieve your doubts and improve your confidence, as if you have the best camera in the world, any poor shots are less likely to be the cameras fault :)

Personally, I doubt if my skills warrant a good camera, but it is nice to own :D
 
Tried to use the G80 today to make a guitar video - it's a "selfie" so I needed the camera's fully articulated screen. Alas, every time I was halfway through a good take the camera popped up the "Please turn the camera off and on again" message. I mean every time. It almost went out the window... In the end I filmed the song on my GX85 - without the articulating screen which made it more awkward. I think it's helped me make up my mind that a G9 will be on the cards, just got to wait and see what our new PM comes up with around energy bills, first.
G80s have been going for very slightly over £200 recently.
What is the shutter count on yours?
 
No idea on the shutter count. If I can find one at £200 I might just buy another. Like I said, above, it's all the camera I need. I actually only paid £200 for mine several years ago - it wasn't long before I realised why it was so cheap. Caveat emptor!
 
A few recent ones




and shutter count

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7v0k_D6Yfw



Mine wasn't much more with a 12-60 lens, and very low shutter count
 
I do like the G100 because of the good image quality, tiny size and good evf but whenever I use it I end up nudging the vertical back wheel and dialling in exposure compensation. This camera would probably be my favourite camera if it had either a second top of camera dial or a clickable one like some other cameras have to toggle between aperture and shutter or one of those and exposure compensation. You can't even disable the back wheel.

I was thinking of swapping it for something else with a good evf and two control dials but everything else is bigger.
 
I do like the G100 because of the good image quality, tiny size and good evf but whenever I use it I end up nudging the vertical back wheel and dialling in exposure compensation. This camera would probably be my favourite camera if it had either a second top of camera dial or a clickable one like some other cameras have to toggle between aperture and shutter or one of those and exposure compensation. You can't even disable the back wheel.

I was thinking of swapping it for something else with a good evf and two control dials but everything else is bigger.
That sounds awkward. It would be better if you could at least lock the back wheel with an Fn button.
 
I do like the G100 because of the good image quality, tiny size and good evf but whenever I use it I end up nudging the vertical back wheel and dialling in exposure compensation. This camera would probably be my favourite camera if it had either a second top of camera dial or a clickable one like some other cameras have to toggle between aperture and shutter or one of those and exposure compensation. You can't even disable the back wheel.

I was thinking of swapping it for something else with a good evf and two control dials but everything else is bigger.
What about the limited mechanical shutter speed?
I remember your previous comments on choosing one that had 1/8000 over 1/4000 as you often needed 1/8000 (the both has electronic shutters).

Interested to hear your findings as I often looked at the G100 but that is what put me off, though I would have been quite happy with 1/4000 mechanical.

I have on several occasions noticed interaction between the stabilisation and the electronic shutter below 1/1000 in addition to the usual rolling shutter effects.
 
What about the limited mechanical shutter speed?
I remember your previous comments on choosing one that had 1/8000 over 1/4000 as you often needed 1/8000 (the both has electronic shutters).

Interested to hear your findings as I often looked at the G100 but that is what put me off, though I would have been quite happy with 1/4000 mechanical.

I have on several occasions noticed interaction between the stabilisation and the electronic shutter below 1/1000 in addition to the usual rolling shutter effects.

Like other Panasonic cameras assuming you've set it to do so the G100 automatically switches to the electronic shutter when the mechanical shutter reaches its limit so it's not a problem for me. My GM5 has a slow max mechanical shutter speed and does the same. Plus the mechanical shutters on these cameras are very quiet so they're great for indoor shooting. The electronic shutter could cause a rolling shutter effect with fast moving subjects but I don't tend to take that sort of picture so that doesn't matter to me.

Older cameras like my G1 were for me a PITA because they only went to 1/4,000 and lacked an electronic shutter so shooting wider than f2.8 in good light usually meant fitting an ND.

I would highly recommend the G100 if you can live with only the one top of camera dial and the vertical back wheel. The G100 is IMO a lovely camera but for that one thing which is for me quite a big ergonomic fail. The G1 only had the one dial but it was clickable and I do wish the G100 used the same system, if they simply couldn't fit two top of camera dials. I got a really good deal on mine and it came with a spare battery and a lovely metal bottom plate and that little tripod thingy which plugs in and allows you to use the controls on it.

One other thing you may need to know about the G100. All other Panasonic cameras have the lens correction in the raw file so there's nothing to do on the pc as the corrections load automatically, assuming your software can do it. With the G100 this doesn't happen and you'll need software with lens corrections in it or you'll need to download them or make your own. They're apparently not in the raw file. This initially phased me and I thought the camera was faulty but a guy at a dealer explained that this was a cost cutting measure, not a fault. Also no in body IS, but I think it has electronic IS.

Three snaps. The 1st G100 at 1/8,000, 2nd at 1/12,800 and the 3rd GM5 at 1/16,000 because it and the G100 have a base ISO of 200.

rJknldg.jpg


WTzhvCp.jpg


x16rSWf.jpg
 
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Like other Panasonic cameras assuming you've set it to do so the G100 automatically switches to the electronic shutter when the mechanical shutter reaches its limit so it's not a problem for me. My GM5 has a slow max mechanical shutter speed and does the same. Plus the mechanical shutters on these cameras are very quiet so they're great for indoor shooting. The electronic shutter could cause a rolling shutter effect with fast moving subjects but I don't tend to take that sort of picture so that doesn't matter to me.

Older cameras like my G1 were for me a PITA because they only went to 1/4,000 and lacked an electronic shutter so shooting wider than f2.8 in good light usually meant fitting an ND.

I would highly recommend the G100 if you can live with only the one top of camera dial and the vertical back wheel. The G100 is IMO a lovely camera but for that one thing which is for me quite a big ergonomic fail. The G1 only had the one dial but it was clickable and I do wish the G100 used the same system, if they simply couldn't fit two top of camera dials. I got a really good deal on mine and it came with a spare battery and a lovely metal bottom plate and that little tripod thingy which plugs in and allows you to use the controls on it.

One other thing you may need to know about the G100. All other Panasonic cameras have the lens correction in the raw file so there's nothing to do on the pc as the corrections load automatically, assuming your software can do it. With the G100 this doesn't happen and you'll need software with lens corrections in it or you'll need to download them or make your own. They're apparently not in the raw file. This initially phased me and I thought the camera was faulty but a guy at a dealer explained that this was a cost cutting measure, not a fault. Also no in body IS, but I think it has electronic IS.

Three snaps. The 1st G100 at 1/8,000, 2nd at 1/12,800 and the 3rd GM5 at 1/16,000 because it and the G100 have a base ISO of 200.

rJknldg.jpg


WTzhvCp.jpg


x16rSWf.jpg
Interesting that it is not an issue in use.

I don't have mine to automatically change to electronic. There are certain times (like HDR) when I nearly always have it on electronic, but normally I prefer to retain the extra colour depth of using the mechanical shutter. But like many of these things, whether it makes any practical difference in the average photo is debatable.

Yes, I remember your lens correction issue. I often turn it off, even with the 7-14 it is minimal, and turning it off gives a noticeably wider angle.

I think my next M43 will be a GX8 :)
 
Hope to get out to take some pictures tomorrow all being well. Weather has been terrible here recently though and I am what you may call a fair weather tog lol

Ditto But when will it stop raining? :D
 
Interesting that it is not an issue in use.

I don't have mine to automatically change to electronic. There are certain times (like HDR) when I nearly always have it on electronic, but normally I prefer to retain the extra colour depth of using the mechanical shutter. But like many of these things, whether it makes any practical difference in the average photo is debatable.

Yes, I remember your lens correction issue. I often turn it off, even with the 7-14 it is minimal, and turning it off gives a noticeably wider angle.

I think my next M43 will be a GX8 :)

I personally would stay clear of the GX8 as it's one of the cameras that was affected by shutter shock. I have the later GX80 and GX9 which have the redesigned shutter mechanism and are shutter shock free. If you really want a GX8 and nothing else will do I'd think about what lenses I'd want to use and research if they show shutter shock or not. You can just avoid the issue by using the electronic shutter but you then risk banding if shooting under flickering artificial lighting and if switching to the mechanical shutter in those condition you're likely to be smack in the shutter shock range. Shutter shock made my GX7 and G7 unusable for indoor photography.
 
First post in this section, but you know how GAS is! Simple question really, one for the G100 owners...

I used to have a Lumix LX100 Mk1 as my "pocket camera" although it did need a bigger pocket, I loved it but got rid a while ago, I don't want to spend as much as an LX100 Mk2 at the moment after the recent swap to the Lumix S5 as my main set up. I'm now looking for a replacement for the LX100 and the G100 looks to tick some boxes, however, is it pocketable? I know it'll depend on what lens is attached, but it'll generally be a prime of the 30-40mm ish persuasion....

Thanks!
 
Interesting that it is not an issue in use.

I don't have mine to automatically change to electronic. There are certain times (like HDR) when I nearly always have it on electronic, but normally I prefer to retain the extra colour depth of using the mechanical shutter. But like many of these things, whether it makes any practical difference in the average photo is debatable.

Yes, I remember your lens correction issue. I often turn it off, even with the 7-14 it is minimal, and turning it off gives a noticeably wider angle.

I think my next M43 will be a GX8 :)
Ibis on the GX8 is less effective than your G80 and its the earliest version of tne 20mp sensor. Might be wrong, but I think it also has an anti aliasing filter that means sharpness is down a notch on the later cameras.
Shutter shock is a real pain, returned my first E-M1 because of it.
They did bring out a later firmware update to help prevent it.
 
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Recommend a good macro for my Panasonic please? Mainly I want to improve on results like the attached, but I also like shooting bigger insects like dragonflies etc.
L Bird 7 9 22 - 2.jpg
 
First post in this section, but you know how GAS is! Simple question really, one for the G100 owners...

I used to have a Lumix LX100 Mk1 as my "pocket camera" although it did need a bigger pocket, I loved it but got rid a while ago, I don't want to spend as much as an LX100 Mk2 at the moment after the recent swap to the Lumix S5 as my main set up. I'm now looking for a replacement for the LX100 and the G100 looks to tick some boxes, however, is it pocketable? I know it'll depend on what lens is attached, but it'll generally be a prime of the 30-40mm ish persuasion....

Thanks!

I think a G100 would only go in a larger winter coat pocket.

If going for a compact replacement for a LX100 why not have a look at the GX80? They can sometimes be found at reasonable prices and they are quite compact.

KCey5Ec.jpg
 
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Recommend a good macro for my Panasonic please? Mainly I want to improve on results like the attached, but I also like shooting bigger insects like dragonflies etc.

Good picture Keith.

I'm still using a film era manual focus 1:1 macro. I think I paid £60 for it, Sigma 50mm f2.8.
 
I personally would stay clear of the GX8 as it's one of the cameras that was affected by shutter shock. I have the later GX80 and GX9 which have the redesigned shutter mechanism and are shutter shock free. If you really want a GX8 and nothing else will do I'd think about what lenses I'd want to use and research if they show shutter shock or not. You can just avoid the issue by using the electronic shutter but you then risk banding if shooting under flickering artificial lighting and if switching to the mechanical shutter in those condition you're likely to be smack in the shutter shock range. Shutter shock made my GX7 and G7 unusable for indoor photography.

Ibis on the GX8 is less effective than your G80 and its the earliest version of tne 20mp sensor. Might be wrong, but I think it also has an anti aliasing filter that means sharpness is down a notch on the later cameras.
Shutter shock is a real pain, returned my first E-M1 because of it.
They did bring out a later firmware update to help prevent it.


Thanks for the comments, looks like I will forget the idea :)

I don't like the control/button layout on the GX9, and I want 20MP.

Interestingly I have not seen any signs of shutter shock on the G7 yet, I must try and use it intentionally within the range it occurs.

I have noticed it on other makes of dSLRs before, probably due to the mirror.
 
I think a G100 would only go in a larger winter coat pocket.

If going for a compact replacement for a LX100 why not have a loon at the GX80? They can sometimes be found at reasonable prices and they are quite compact.

KCey5Ec.jpg
Thanks Alan, this is why I came into here to ask, I'll take a look at that :)
 
Recommend a good macro for my Panasonic please? Mainly I want to improve on results like the attached, but I also like shooting bigger insects like dragonflies etc.
View attachment 366634
Dragonflies need a longish focal length as they won't often let you get close. A dedicated macro lens with a long focal length isn't available from Pansonic or Olympus so you're looking at third-party alternatives. One of the favourites is the Sigma 105mm with an EF-to-MFT convertor which would do the job but is a bulky combination. I have no idea how well your camera performs with adapted lenses, however. Another option would be a versatile zoom lens like the 14-140mm II which has reasonably close-focusing but you would have to add either an extension tube at the back or a close-up lens/filter on the front like a Raynox DCR-150 or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125467130256?hash=item1d366c7990:g:tzkAAOSwXohi--in to get really close for your bugs.
 
Thanks for the comments, looks like I will forget the idea :)

I don't like the control/button layout on the GX9, and I want 20MP.

Interestingly I have not seen any signs of shutter shock on the G7 yet, I must try and use it intentionally within the range it occurs.

I have noticed it on other makes of dSLRs before, probably due to the mirror.

The GX9 is 20mp but if it's not for you it's not for you.

I had a G7 and it displayed SS but all things have to combine for you to see it. You need to be using a shutter shock prone body, an affected lens and to be using the mechanical shutter within the affected shutter speed range.

There are also 20mp cameras in the Oly range but when I looked at them there was always something that put me off, like shutter shock or the lack of custom modes.
 
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