"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

... so I picked up a Panasonic 45mm f2.8 Macro Leica D Vario-Elmar Micro Four Thirds lens yesterday, going cheap.

A beautiful little thing indeed.

Haven't had a chance to try it out properly yet, but took this in passing ...

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Its been awhile...

Clouded Yellow Butterfly (male). This is a wild butterfly (like all my butterfly images).
S.O.O.C. no PP or editing at all. Image is not cropped. Jpeg, Handheld, Autofocus.
I re-evaluated how i would procces my images recently, an rather than stick to the same set of processing procedures (easy to fall into this kinda regime) i now look at each image 1st, to see what it might need (in the editing department). Since i shoot in Jpeg, i cant edit it too much, because the final image can suffer.
Im sure i could edit/process this image, tweak it slightly...but it looks pretty good to me, straight out of camera!

G80/ Panny 45 to 150mm lens/Canon 500D close up filter/lens. f/8, 1/320, ISO 400. Lens at 76mm. Shot at 2.40pm, 31/8/20.

Clouded Yellow Butterfly (male). No cropping. by Tort Man, on Flickr
 
Hi All,

Im hoping you can help me, Im an Olympus user, but I’m trying to set up my dads new Panasonic G9, but am finding the af system confusing..

Firstly I don’t seem to be able to select all of the af points, this stops one box around the edge?

The second thing is if I change the size to just a single af point a box then appears on the touch screen saying af off but then randomly it then turns to cluster focusing? Shown in images below?

Or should I be using the single af option? On the Olympus if you change to just single af, the cluster is only activated if all af points are chosen?

Many thanks :)

2F84645F-CD74-4160-9262-37D0B984EC86.jpegC07734C9-0330-414F-9870-EDF09ADFBF0F.jpeg629D935E-5842-45E8-A96A-F0B5EC50D7C6.jpeg
 
Joe94 said:
Hi All,

Im hoping you can help me, Im an Olympus user, but I’m trying to set up my dads new Panasonic G9, but am finding the af system confusing..

Firstly I don’t seem to be able to select all of the af points, this stops one box around the edge?

The second thing is if I change the size to just a single af point a box then appears on the touch screen saying af off but then randomly it then turns to cluster focusing? Shown in images below?

Or should I be using the single af option? On the Olympus if you change to just single af, the cluster is only activated if all af points are chosen?

Many thanks :)

View attachment 293026View attachment 293027View attachment 293028
Click to expand...
Sorry I forgot to add, that I’m also unable to select all 225 af points, & can only select enough to fill 1 square around the edge away from the outer edge?
 
Joe94 said:
Im hoping you can help me, Im an Olympus user, but I’m trying to set up my dads new Panasonic G9, but am finding the af system confusing
Click to expand...
Hey Joe

What is your dad going to be doing with the G9?

ie. .... still photography, birds in flight, video?
 
d00d said:
Hey Joe

What is your dad going to be doing with the G9?

ie. .... still photography, birds in flight, video?
Click to expand...
Hey, it’s mainly going to be still photography but of wildlife.. However with a focus on still birds rather than in flight :)
 
Joe94 said:
Hi All,

Im hoping you can help me, Im an Olympus user, but I’m trying to set up my dads new Panasonic G9, but am finding the af system confusing..

Firstly I don’t seem to be able to select all of the af points, this stops one box around the edge?

The second thing is if I change the size to just a single af point a box then appears on the touch screen saying af off but then randomly it then turns to cluster focusing? Shown in images below?

Or should I be using the single af option? On the Olympus if you change to just single af, the cluster is only activated if all af points are chosen?

Many thanks :)

View attachment 293026View attachment 293027View attachment 293028
Click to expand...

First thing I would do is turn off the touch screen af point select.
That way you can experiment without fear of moving the af point inadvertently
 
Joe94 said:
Hey, it’s mainly going to be still photography but of wildlife.. However with a focus on still birds rather than in flight :)
Click to expand...
OK. I suggest you set the "AF Mode" to "1-Area" and the "Focus Mode" to "AFS"

^^ This is my default, use it 95+% of the time.

Those dozens or hundreds of focus points (Panasonic calls them focus areas) are over-rated.
 
A7 v A7c v Panasonic GX9 (I have one.)

1-Untitled-1.jpg

I'm surprised that the A7c is a touch shorter than the GX9, but maybe a bit thicker...

Untitled-2.jpg

The GX9 has front and back dials though. See that Sony?
 
d00d said:
OK. I suggest you set the "AF Mode" to "1-Area" and the "Focus Mode" to "AFS"

^^ This is my default, use it 95+% of the time.

Those dozens or hundreds of focus points (Panasonic calls them focus areas) are over-rated.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for this :)
 
Joe94 said:
Thank you very much for this :)
Click to expand...

I hope it works for you. It's simple, one subject, one focus point, there's never more than one focus point (unless you're focus-stacking or have aperture so deep it's impossible to work out what's in focus and what's not). ;)
 
d00d said:
I hope it works for you. It's simple, one subject, one focus point, there's never more than one focus point (unless you're focus-stacking or have aperture so deep it's impossible to work out what's in focus and what's not). ;)
Click to expand...
No thank you, that does make sense :) Thing is I must admit one thing that confused me, is I’m an Olympus user, & with Oly you do just select a song AF pin point from the whole areas & cluster is only active if you select every af point, where as on Pano, if I’ve understood correctly single AF point & using af points from the area are actually 2 separate options altogether rather than being combined like on the Olympus.

Thanks again for you help with this though :)
 
michael23 said:
Hi all, could someone point me in the direction of a wired remote shutter release for the g9 please,
Click to expand...
It's a standard 2.5mm jack, used by dozens of cameras. Just put 'panasonic g9 wired remote' into Amazon or eBay and you'll get loads of them. I've found those supplied by Shoot or iShoot to be reasonable but most of them look the same so are probably all from the same factory.
 
Snapsh0t said:
It's a standard 2.5mm jack, used by dozens of cameras. Just put 'panasonic g9 wired remote' into Amazon or eBay and you'll get loads of them. I've found those supplied by Shoot or iShoot to be reasonable but most of them look the same so are probably all from the same factory.
Click to expand...
Thanks, will have another look, the ones I saw last night didn't say g9 on the list of compatible cameras, so got confused
 
A couple from the G80, which is held together with tape, can't be turned off, and is electronically temperamental. Still enjoy using it and think it's a great camera though. First shot is with the the 12-32 f3.5 - 5.6 and the second is with the 35-100 f2.8ii which I just love (should do for the price!).

Horsebox (small).jpg

Steps (small).jpg
 
delb0y said:
Another from me - GX85 and 20mm 1.7. I just got this lens two days ago and this was the first chance to use. Had a copy many years ago, but foolishly sold it. Now I'm in that group of photographers who have bought - sold - bought the same piece of kit.
Click to expand...

I've bought and sold the 20mm f1. 7 twice so far, and now I'm considering another one! It's a lovely lens.
 
So, I'm back in the Panasonic fold.
I sold my G9 earlier in the year, but stayed with M43 by way of Olympus OM D E M1 Mark ii & iii - but I always kept my Leica 200mm f2.8 and 1.4 T/C.
IMHO the Leica 200mm is, without any doubt, the finest M43 lens, bar none. The Oly 300mm Pro runs it close, but it's not quite there.
So I had to buy another G9 when I sold my Olympus gear, primarily to use the Leica 200mm.
Here's a couple from today, quite large crops - nothing extra special, but I'm just chuffed to be back. (The first one is with the 1.4 T/C).

Blue Tit by Malcolm Fisher, on Flickr

Goldfinch by Malcolm Fisher, on Flickr
 
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Guys.

Talking about shutter types in the Sony thread got me thinking about my Panasonic MFT cameras and their electronic shutters. Thinking about it when using the electronic shutter I don't think I've seen banding under artificial lights since the GX7. I have the GX80 and GX9 now.

Has anyone using later cameras seen banding when using the electronic shutter?
 
I rarely use electronic shutter for photos on my GH5, but I can test it out later on tonight.
 
I use mine with the electronic shutter now and again for family snaps but I haven't seen the banding for quite a while.
 
Yes and I think it can be lessened by using multiples of mains frequency but as I said above, I haven't seen it for a while which is either I suppose good luck or they've built in some sort of way of detecting flicker and avoid the banding with newer cameras.

I just wondered if anyone else has taken pictures with the electronic shutter under artificial lighting and has either seen this or not. For me it's a case of I can't remember seeing it since the GX7.
 
Well, I gave my cameras a thorough road test and it looks like I've just been lucky as the banding can be provoked by some lighting but is as far as I can see absent at 1/50.
 
Just two daft pictures really...

What's he up to? There's noise due to horrible light.

rou2bIJ.jpg


Acting daft.

czsTjCj.jpg


That's about as bad light as I ever take pictures in really, inside with artificial light and possibly a TV on.
 
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woof woof said:
Yes and I think it can be lessened by using multiples of mains frequency but as I said above, I haven't seen it for a while which is either I suppose good luck or they've built in some sort of way of detecting flicker and avoid the banding with newer cameras.

I just wondered if anyone else has taken pictures with the electronic shutter under artificial lighting and has either seen this or not. For me it's a case of I can't remember seeing it since the GX7.
Click to expand...

As I remember it was also very lens dependant. The 20mm being one of the worst offenders. Don't think we ever got to the bottom of why.
 
Any G9/Lumix Guru's here...?

I've managed to acquire one from MPB, (like new condition, shutter count 600, very pleased) but's it's gone away to Santa.

In the meantime, I'm trying to get my head around the manual but am struggling to understand the difference between shooting in a Burst Mode (using Burst Mode position 1 or 2 on the drive dial) and 6k photo (using the 6k position on the drive dial).

It appears that Burst Modes will provide raw and/or jpeg, 6k jpeg only. Are there any other glaring differences that I'm missing? When would one choose to use a Burst Mode over the 6k photo mode and vice versa?
 
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