"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

GX9 with eyecup and 42.5mm f/1.7 just arrived.
Exciting time.

First thoughts:
-that extending eyecup really is extended it's not a joke!
-the lens is so tiny they could really have done the pouch a tighter fit. I need to find a better pouch!
-no "reel" charger is a bit of a pain I don't like charging batteries in camera any advice for a good one.the

Now a reel question. When in AFS and i move what is the camera is aiming at and the camera slowly refocus to where it is now pointing at without me asking me too. What is wrong there? It's doing the same in AFC when I'm not pressing the button. Camera seems to not want to stop focusing itself?
 
Lemaildetom said:
GX9 with eyecup and 42.5mm f/1.7 just arrived.
Exciting time.

First thoughts:
-that extending eyecup really is extended it's not a joke!
-the lens is so tiny they could really have done the pouch a tighter fit. I need to find a better pouch!
-no "reel" charger is a bit of a pain I don't like charging batteries in camera any advice for a good one.the

Now a reel question. When in AFS and i move what is the camera is aiming at and the camera slowly refocus to where it is now pointing at without me asking me too. What is wrong there? It's doing the same in AFC when I'm not pressing the button. Camera seems to not want to stop focusing itself?
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That's what I call an extended eyecup, really works well though, not so sure about the safety string.
ExPro charger is good, I prefer the USB powered one, but the mains version is good too (I have both)
I think the focusing issue will be you finding out the touchscreen is rather sensitive.
Try turning it off in the menu and see how it goes, you can turn the whole touchscreen off or just the focusing option.
 
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I'm 100% sure i'm not touching the touch screen! Holding the camera away from me looking in the live view and moving around in AFS or AFC and the focus adjust itself really slowly/gently/silently.
 
The solution probably lies in there.
AFS is an abbreviation of Auto Focus Single and AFF is an abbreviation of Auto Focus Flexible. In AFS, the focus stays locked while the shutter button is pressed halfway so i need to keep half pressed to stop it readjusting! Sorry I'm use to back button focus on my previous camera.
In AFF focus is continuously readjusted according to the movement of the subject.
 
I don't get it!
When In AFC described as:

“AFC” is an abbreviation of “Auto Focus Continuous”.
In this mode, while the shutter button is pressed
halfway, focusing is constantly performed to match the
movement of the subject.

Even when not pressing the focus button it still focus itself really slowly/gently/silently as said above!
Why?
 
Lemaildetom said:
I don't get it!
When In AFC described as:

“AFC” is an abbreviation of “Auto Focus Continuous”.
In this mode, while the shutter button is pressed
halfway, focusing is constantly performed to match the
movement of the subject.

Even when not pressing the focus button it still focus itself really slowly/gently/silently as said above!
Why?
Click to expand...
With my G80 on afc, if I move my camera it alters focus even if I'm not touching the focus button.
To stop it doing that I select afs or mf.
 
I guess that is the same how silly, it doesn't in afs but only when you are half pressed. I you are not half pressed it does.
 
May have found something which was the cause of this strange behaviour
[Quick AF]
The focus is automatically adjusted when camera blurring is small even when the shutter
button is not pressed. (Increases battery consumption.)
 
A good field test for my "newish" Panny G7 the other evening.
Strong winds, approx 7.30pm, fading light etc.

Female Common Blue Butterfly, at roost. 2/6/19, 7.27pm. Maunual f/5.6 1/320 ISO 1000. Handheld, Jpeg. Image is not cropped.

I would not normally shoot at ISO 1000 (thats quite high for me) but conditions were poor, so i was pleased with the outcome(missed quite a few shots though) the strong wind gusts, giving me most of the problems!

P1050323-copy-to-600.jpg
 
Hi guys .... anyone suffering rear dial problems? Please see my post HERE
 
Just about to order a G9 and see that I've missed the double cashback. Is there any chance Panasonic will bring double cashback back in the next few weeks?
 
paulcamcas said:
Just about to order a G9 and see that I've missed the double cashback. Is there any chance Panasonic will bring double cashback back in the next few weeks?
Click to expand...

Its been on at Easter and Whitsun so you might get lucky August Bank Holiday week.
If there are any trade shows they sometimes do a special, they did for Societies one in January and the big NEC bash
Could pick up a G9 there for about £800 after cashback and special offer prices.

I hung on to see if it came back at Whitsun before buying my back up GX9 and got lucky.
Hope it works out for you too
 
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Been using a little bit the GX9 with the 42.5 f1.7 lens. So far when the light is good I'm happy. I've been taking some picture of my boy running at me using burst mode, AFC and a not to small focus area and it's got a pretty good keepers rate. Otherwise I use single shot, AFS and the smallest area possible.
 
Has anyone got or had a Panasonic 12mm f/1.4

Interested in one for some architecture and night sky stuff, would like opinions please before I take the plunge
I have put a wanted thread up, but not expecting a response, will probably go down the used route if its a goer

Thanks
 
Sharp end of a Tornado...

Panasonic G9 8GB 08 P1012276.JPG

Panasonic G9 / 100-400mm
 
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A shot from last Sunday afternoon...poor light, very very light rain(in the wind)...it was hard going (out in the field) until i found this freshly emerged female Common Blue Butterfly!! She was a stunner, an she was sighted nectaring on an Ox-eye Daisy.

Panny G7/45-150mm/Raynox 150. Manual. f/5.6. 1/320. ISO 200. 61mm. Handheld, Jpeg, image is not cropped.

P1050598-copy-800.jpg



Got a small parcel through the post today(via Fleabay)...I bought 2 new Close Up filters.
These being the Canon 250D an 500D. I think i will prefer these, rather than using the Raynox 150.
They are as new, but cost me a 3rd of the "new price"...Fleabay...............it aint half bad sometimes!!

A pic of my Butterfly/Dragonfly/Reptile MFT's G7 set up, as of today (cant wait to field test this now).
Note, the canon close up filters match each lens thread perfectly. Although the 58mm 250D is slightly heavy(200 grams, i think).
So it kinder feels top heavy on my 12-60 lens now........................hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...Ive recently found myself lookin at the Panny G9 lately!
I guess a G9, with 12-60/Canon 250D close up filter, would be a bit more balanced...maybe?! ;)

P1770932-copy-to-800.jpg
 
tijuana taxi said:
Has anyone got or had a Panasonic 12mm f/1.4

Interested in one for some architecture and night sky stuff, would like opinions please before I take the plunge
I have put a wanted thread up, but not expecting a response, will probably go down the used route if its a goer

Thanks
Click to expand...

If i think what i used for northern light / milky way in the past then 12mm (24mm) is really too narrow. I wouldn't go with less wide that 10mm (20mm).
I saw there is a 7.5mm f2 non fish eye by venus for 300-400£.

Then architecture I have no clue I have never done stuff like this.
 
Lemaildetom said:
If i think what i used for northern light / milky way in the past then 12mm (24mm) is really too narrow. I wouldn't go with less wide that 10mm (20mm).
I saw there is a 7.5mm f2 non fish eye by venus for 300-400£.

Then architecture I have no clue I have never done stuff like this.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure FF wise it was wide enough, my daughter had a Canon 24mm L f/1.4 and that was OK when I used it once.
I use the wide end of a 12-40 for architecture, but want something faster especially for interiors.
 
Hi

What’s the consensus on Macro with the G9? Is there a lens that’s considered the best? Oly 60? Panasonic 45? Any other options?

Cheers

Andy
 
andythilo said:
Hi

What’s the consensus on Macro with the G9? Is there a lens that’s considered the best? Oly 60? Panasonic 45? Any other options?

Cheers

Andy
Click to expand...


The 60mm Olympus is a little cracker, not owned one myself but seen enough good examples between this thread and the Olympus one. There are other options though, if you have a zoom lens anywhere between 80 - 120mm, you can get a Raynox 250 and attach it on giving you a very good macro option. Another option is to buy an old manual focus macro lens [most decent macro is done with manual focus anyway] and a cheap adapter. You still get IBIS when you adapt lenses, the only thing you lose is some cpu data, you won't get the aperture used or the focal length. ISO and shutter speed will always show though because they are on body settings.
 
For macro and close up stuff I don't really see the point in AF. If the lens is going to be used for some other purpose then AF will be an advantage but for close up stuff and macro you'll most likely be using manual focus.
 
Don't agree with the not needing AF, at least if your lens does it you have an option, i use it all the time especially on live subjects that are moving around.
 
The thing is that AF will focus on something but with close up stuff it might not focus on exactly what you want especially if the subject has hairs, bristles, undulations, protrusions or whatever (flowers with their petals and stamens etc, bugs with hairs etc) and with subjects like that I find it an advantage to use MF and deliberately choose the exact point of focus. AF will possibly tend to focus on whatever is closest or has the most contrast but that may not be the point you want. Just my HO.

In some pictures it may not be noticeable if the exact point of focus isn't exactly on what you want, or a slight AF miss may be hidden by the depth of field or you simply might not care but for accuracy that stands up to pixel peeping or looking closely at big pictures IMO your best option, for some subjects and if you have the time to do it is often MF.
 
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mikew said:
Don't agree with the not needing AF, at least if your lens does it you have an option, i use it all the time especially on live subjects that are moving around.
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At 1:1 AF is useless, doesn't matter the lens. You might get away with it for close ups but we're talking full on macro, I thought? MF is faster

Another note on macro lenses for those who may not know, they automatically stop down as you approach 1:1 - not all manufacturers let this be known, your lens might still show as being at 2.8 at CFD, but it isn't - Nikon at least show the true values. Try using a Nikon macro lens on a Nikon body and get 1:1 focus, note you are now at f/5 or even 5.6, this is the case with all true macro lenses. It's a benefit if anything as nobody does 1:1 wide open or you'd never get anything in focus. As is we usually stop down to F8+ to get more than a sliver in focus
 
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Thanks for the advise, I think I'll go with the Oly 60mm. Happy to use it in manual or AF. Just need to sort flash/diffuser.
 
andythilo said:
Thanks for the advise, I think I'll go with the Oly 60mm. Happy to use it in manual or AF. Just need to sort flash/diffuser.
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AF on this lens is good afaik, but when you hit that 1:1 switch you will be manual focusing. Come back and report how you get on with it :) Also an excellent portrait lens
 
60mm will be very nice.

I use a 50mm but I keep thinking back to the days when I had a 150mm on Canon DSLR's and a 60mm on MFT will be a bit closer to that than the 50mm I currently use.
 
woof woof said:
For macro and close up stuff I don't really see the point in AF. If the lens is going to be used for some other purpose then AF will be an advantage but for close up stuff and macro you'll most likely be using manual focus.
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I cannot agree with you. I would think most people are looking into macro/close up photography, from a hobbyist point of view. They are not professionals, shooting a series of high end product images, in a clinical/sterile/controlled environment. They are just looking to shoot some images of live Bugs/Insects in their gardens/parks, for the most part. Therefore why would you want to restrict yourself, by using just MF, for Close up/Macro?? The latest cameras have very good/rapid AF, so its easier to utilize the AF option, rather than “faffing around” with MF.

I hear/read this a lot…people saying – “If you are serious about close up/macro photography, then you are far better off using MF, AF will be useless”. The same people also say – “You must use a tripod, you cannot handhold”… “You must shoot in Raw”…You must use dedicated expensive Macro lenses”… “You must use expensive Flash Guns”. etc. etc….my opinion is - those sayings are all “Urban Myths”, “Old Wives Tales, “Untruths”.

For approx a decade, ive shot close up/macro images of UK wildlife, the main subjects being - Reptiles, Butterflies, Odonata, Spiders, Bugs in general. For 99.9% of my images captured, ive used AF. All my subjects are skittish, I have to find the critters in the wild 1st, then I might have a few seconds to capture some images, before the swines take off/move on. AF allows me to capture a good percentage of pleasing images…if i tried to use MF, to capture the same type of images, I would have failed! For me, and my chosen close up/macro subjects, it really is a no-brainer…its AF all the way.

As I said earlier, if i was to shoot close up/macro, in a professional capacity…in a sterile/controlled studio environment, the subjects being “dead insects”…a watch/ring…a pen…a lemon/strawberry (you get the picture!) then sure, I have all the time in the world, to use MF…………………….but how many hobbyist photographers, would be shooting in such a controlled environment?

PS. For my close up/macro, over the years, ive used Nikon DX/FX cameras, with the Nikon 105mm lens (made in japan edition). Nikon V1/J1 with FT1 adapter.
Various panasonic Bridge cameras...and these last couple of months, im now trying a G7, hence me participating in this thread.
 
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