"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

harry66 said:
Completely biased advice - buy my lightly used GX7!
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Good try!
Is it in the Classified yet? Didn't see it.
You'll probably sell it 10 times over before I make my mind up what to do!
 
Still waiting for my GX8 and 100-400 but thought i could buy a couple of extras while i wait,i dont use Amazon so only ebay options please,looking for a good screen protector and a spare battery.
 
desf said:
Good try!
Is it in the Classified yet? Didn't see it.
You'll probably sell it 10 times over before I make my mind up what to do!
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Was in the Classifieds but I archived it. If you are interested let me know and I can add it back...

Good luck with whatever your decide - surely, whichever of those options you go for, you can't go far wrong can you?
 
mikew said:
Still waiting for my GX8 and 100-400 but thought i could buy a couple of extras while i wait,i dont use Amazon so only ebay options please,looking for a good screen protector and a spare battery.
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ExpertShield do good quality SPs with great customer service http://expertshielduk.com/lumix-gx8expert-shield.html
In the unlikely event you have problems applying it they will usually replace FOC.

I got my DSTE spare batteries from Amazon (with charger) - they sell the same on Ebay too http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DSTE-2x-D...022648?hash=item3abeaba338:g:RDgAAOSwFGNWSTh7
They also do just the batteries without the charger - but I personally was happy to pay the extra £5 for the spare charger which can be used in a car too....
 
harry66 said:
Was in the Classifieds but I archived it. If you are interested let me know and I can add it back...
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Thanks but don't relist on my account. :)

I really can't make my mind up so inertia rules for the moment.
 
desf said:
I need help/advice. :eek:

I've bought a Panasonic 14-45mm, ... ...prefer to have a viewfinder
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For that lens, and with a viewfinder, I recommend an Olympus E-M10 because they are popular and plentiful so there are great deals about. The stabilisation suits your lens' focal length and is better than the lens' own.
(I personally don't rate G3, G5 or G6 as being as good at most things as the E-M10)
The G7 might be into cheapo territory soon though ...
 
Ulfric M Douglas said:
For that lens, and with a viewfinder, I recommend an Olympus E-M10 because they are popular and plentiful so there are great deals about. The stabilisation suits your lens' focal length and is better than the lens' own.
(I personally don't rate G3, G5 or G6 as being as good at most things as the E-M10)
The G7 might be into cheapo territory soon though ...
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Thanks. That's exactly the line my thinking has been going.
 
Come on you guys tell me how good this 12-35 f2.8 is,i have while Monday to make my mind up so no rush :D
 
mikew said:
Come on you guys tell me how good this 12-35 f2.8 is,i have while Monday to make my mind up so no rush :D
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I think it's well worth the money, focus speed is very fast and image quality is very good. I'll find some examples for you when I get home.
 
I'm impressed with mine. I find the focus is noisier than I expected but it's still quieter than some. Other than that it's great not to be limited by the f3.5 to f5.6 of the kit lenses.
 
Looking to get a G7 after handling a few camera in my local shop it feels best in the hand, what lenses would people recommend? I was looking at the Panasonic 14-45 and 45-200?
 
Here are some from my 12-35 at f2.8 with 100% crops, the second one is at high ISO so not as sharp as the first.

P1010820 copy (Medium).jpg P1010820 100% crop copy.jpg

P1010815 copy (Medium).jpg P1010815 100% crop copy.jpg
 
mikew said:
Come on you guys tell me how good this 12-35 f2.8 is,i have while Monday to make my mind up so no rush :D
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My favourite lens.
I have the 35-100mm, 25mm f1.4, the 15mm and the 42.5mm - but the 12-35mm is on 95% of the time - perhaps even higher then 95%!
 
To me the 12-35mm f2.8 is a watershed lens as it allows me to shoot MFT with a zoom and get the pretty much the results I'd get from FF and a zoom.

With FF I'd shoot at possibly f4 or f5 to f8 or at the most maybe f12 and with MFT and the 12-35mm f2.8 I can shoot for roughly the same dof equiv. from f2.8 at which the 12-35mm is pretty sharp to f8 and get pretty much the same image I'd get from FF.

The advantage of shooting at the wider aperture with MFT is that the advantages offered by FF are arguably largely negated and the 12-35mm MFT lens gives good image quality in the f2.8 to F8 range whereas the FF lens would possibly need to be stepped down a bit.

IMO the only downside of this lens is the additional bulk... and possibly the cost too... but as it's useable from f2.8 if the bulk and cost are manageable I'd say that this lens is pretty much a must have, if you like zooms.
 
I cut the lawns today but if it was up to me I probably wouldn't as I love the slightly wilder look especially when the "weeds" flower, so before I reluctantly cut the lawns I grabbed my G1 and old film era 50mm f2.8 and took a few pictures...

I love these blue ones, not sure what they are though.







Who wouldn't want a garden full of weeds? :D

I'm allowed some pot plants :D and I've left one pot empty for whatever floats in on the breeze and grows :D

One of my two early blooming roses...



I had to move my cars. Do pictures have to be in focus?



I use old film era lenses on my G1 and also sometimes on my Sony A7 where to be honest they absolutely shine and apart from real issues (like the shutter shock issue I posted about earlier) when I look at pictures taken with these old lenses and how sharp they are I start to wonder why people complain about modern lenses which are (as long as there's no actual fault...) usually better than their film era counterparts :D
 
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Help already:( the camera was secondhand with just over 200 shots taken,i have now got my settings in apart from getting rid of the horizon level indicator,it looks like a plane landing game and i want rid of it.
 
haha! :D

I think if you toggle the display button it should go away otherwise if you dive into the menu there should be an option to display it or not. Toggling the display button works on my GX7 and G7 though.
 
Thanks will try that when the battery comes off charge,been all through the menus and the instruction pdf but can i find it,no.
 
Yep - works the same on the GX8. Pressing DISP should toggle the various modes including with and without Level Gauge
If your virtual function buttons (via the touch screen) are at the default setting, then F9 may also allow you to turn off the Level Gauge??
 
Thanks guys sorted that, now have it how i want it,apart from :D i set it to M burst rate but only getting single so obviously have missed something,starting to like it though,cant wait for the long lens.
 
mikew said:
Thanks guys sorted that, now have it how i want it,apart from :D i set it to M burst rate but only getting single so obviously have missed something,starting to like it though,cant wait for the long lens.
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You change the burst rate, But then do you change the drive mode too (bottom cursor key on the four way control on the back)?
 
harry66 said:
You change the burst rate, But then do you change the drive mode too (bottom cursor key on the four way control on the back)?
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Thanks again it makes the Nikon menu look simple ;) just done a burst of a car coming towards me at 20-25 mph and it got nearly all of them,mind you i am using a f2.8 lens,it is fast though for a mirrorless camera i think i will get my BIF most of the time.
 
I'll be interested to read your thoughts on the camera and lenses once you've got to grips with them.
 
And a little question from me...

I've been comparing my GX7 and G7 and one thing I've noticed (apart from the shutter shock issue) is that the GX7 seems more prone to showing banding under artificial light when using the electronic shutter. Shooting the two side by side I was surprised that the G7 didn't appear to show any banding... so I wonder if they've thought about this and done something...

When I have time I'll try and look at this more closely but at the moment the G7 seems to be showing less susceptibility to banding compared to the GX7 when using the electronic shutter under artificial lighting.

Has anyone else shot with a G7 with electronic shutter under artificial light and noticed banding - or no banding?
 
woof woof said:
I'll be interested to read your thoughts on the camera and lenses once you've got to grips with them.
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At the moment ime loving it,honeymoon period maybe,a light bulb came on in my head and i sussed how the menu works,my problem now is software based,ime not getting what i can see in it.
 
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Bond6 said:
Hi Simon

Great shot. How does the lens compare with your standard kit lens?
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Thanks :-)

I'm a big fan of the Panny 14-42mm mk II kit lens. As for as sharpness is concerned for stopped down landscape work in real world conditions, I never expected to see any night and day differences as my kit lens is very, very good in this regard. I also don't really pixel peep or go out of my way looking for or testing such things. However, much like its 25mm f1.4 brother the colours, contrast / micro-contrast and overall rendering of the 15mm f1.7 are just lovely. The look and feel of the lens in use is really nice too. For the price I paid for it (£349 UK stock split from a kit), I see it as a real performance bargain!

Cheers,

Simon.
 
I really like this for a few reasons. m43 gets a bit of a bad rap for not being fast enough for sports so this proves otherwise. It's a really good shot, nice and sharp for 1/30 shutter speed. My motorsport technique is a bit rusty so I'm not often down that slow. Plus I don't have stabilisation with my preferred setup = D300 and 70-210. Perhaps I should try G6 and stabilised zoom. I see the GX8 has stabilisation, do you find that helps with motorsport panning? As we know, large apertures are generally pointless for motorsport - you were at f14 here, so I don't need a fast lens, my 45-200 should do it.

Did you get any of the blue Caterham Cosworth? It's my brother-in-law's car. Cheers.




srhmoto said:
One from the weekend - GX8 + Sigma 60mm f2.8

BARC at Croft Circuit by Simon Harrison, on Flickr

Cheers,

Simon.
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mikew said:
Looking for a third lens and was considering the Sigma 60mm but got thinking,i will not say i do macro but i do like to get fairly large images of insects ect,i was thinking the Panasonic 42,5 f1.7 with a small ext tube could make a great dual purpose lens,any thoughts please.

http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-panasonic-42-5mm-f1-7-lumix-g-asph-power-ois-lens-black/p1568666
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I have this lens and have heard that with a raynox 250 adapter the results can be superb and a lot cheaper than buying the Olympus 60mm
 
Bond6 said:
I have this lens and have heard that with a raynox 250 adapter the results can be superb and a lot cheaper than buying the Olympus 60mm
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I'd love to see some images from your 42.5mm if you would like to share, it's the next lens I'm looking to buy.
 
martsharm said:
I really like this for a few reasons. m43 gets a bit of a bad rap for not being fast enough for sports so this proves otherwise. It's a really good shot, nice and sharp for 1/30 shutter speed. My motorsport technique is a bit rusty so I'm not often down that slow. Plus I don't have stabilisation with my preferred setup = D300 and 70-210. Perhaps I should try G6 and stabilised zoom. I see the GX8 has stabilisation, do you find that helps with motorsport panning? As we know, large apertures are generally pointless for motorsport - you were at f14 here, so I don't need a fast lens, my 45-200 should do it.

Did you get any of the blue Caterham Cosworth? It's my brother-in-law's car. Cheers.
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I don't think I did I'm afraid.

I turn stabilisation off as I find it just gets in the way. Always have done regardless of the system I've used.

With m4/3, f14 isn't ideal due to diffraction. I didn't have them with me when I took the quoted shot, but normally I would use a screw on ND filter to make sure I was shooting in the range f5.6 to f8 max.

Cheers,

Simon.
 
Congrats on your technique then, it's not easy getting anything sharp at 1/30. Personally I need more practice.

I think my problem is I don't stand close enough, so I'm using too long a focal length which makes it all the more difficult. I agree the high aperture isn't ideal. I was at Oulton a couple of weeks ago for the NSSCC (one of which cars your shot features) and the sun was so bright then I couldn't have got the shutter speed down to 1/30 regardless of aperture!

I was thinking a polarising filter would give about the right amount of light absorption whilst improving contrast, so will give it a shot when I'm down at Croft for the next race in the championship.
 
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