"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

srhmoto said:
Here's another for you then!

Dragging the shutter - 1/8s pan to blur the crowd and foreground.



GX8 + Panny 14-42mm mk II

Cheers,

Simon.
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Sweet! Did you use single AF or Continuous AF or Continuous tracking AF (could never understand the difference between the latter two:)) ?
 
A quick question about the gm1 (which I have) and the pl15. I am wondering if I use this combination in shutter priority mode will the aperture ring still work so I can effectively have it in manual but the iso will automatically adjust? It is so irritating that the auto iso always seems to pick a slow shutter speed. But I don't want to be setting everything manually every time and auto iso doesnt work in manual mode.
 
Borsch said:
Sweet! Did you use single AF or Continuous AF or Continuous tracking AF (could never understand the difference between the latter two:)) ?
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Neither :-). I prefocused and then switched to manual.

Cheers,

Simon.
 
Quick question, just picked up a GX7. Using it in A mode and auto iso with the 20mm, the minimum shutter speed seems to be set to 1/60.

Having looked for ages, I can't see any way to change the min shutter speed. Is there any way to change it like there is with the Nikon auto iso function, or am I out of luck?
 
JYC said:
Quick question, just picked up a GX7. Using it in A mode and auto iso with the 20mm, the minimum shutter speed seems to be set to 1/60.

Having looked for ages, I can't see any way to change the min shutter speed. Is there any way to change it like there is with the Nikon auto iso function, or am I out of luck?
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There is no way unfortunately .
 
When the light is too low and the camera is stuck at low shutter speeds I either select shutter priority and dial in something more sensible like 1/100 or use manual mode and dial in sensible settings.

It's a PITA but not quite the end of the world.
 
I'm actually trying to go slower not faster to prevent high iso (1/60 for 20mm with IBIS seemed conservative), but yes that would be the way forward!
 
Bond6 said:
Wondered if you could do me a favour and share your settings for long exposure I have to do several night shots later this week and it would be really helpful.

Thanks
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No problem, although not much to share really. I always shoot raw, and so far I've used long exposure noise reduction. I shoot in aperture priority with f8, ISO200 and shutter speed to suit. I generally bracket between 3 to 7 shots and then, if necessary, blend them using luminosity masks in PS.

Hope this helps!

Simon.
 
JYC said:
I'm actually trying to go slower not faster to prevent high iso (1/60 for 20mm with IBIS seemed conservative), but yes that would be the way forward!
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Ah, I see... if you run out of options that suit you in aperture mode it's same fix, switch to shutter or manual mode and dial in what you want.
 
Hi,

Apologies if this is a well know fact - but I searched for this thread for Thorpe and did not find anything...

For the benefit of any GX8 (or GX7) users struggling with the complicated / highly featured menu options, a chap called David Thorpe did a small book on the GX7 menu back in 2013 and has recently released a GX8 version too.

Just search Amazon for "GX8 Menu System Simplified' (or GX7).

I have both and find they really help de-mystify some of the menu options - certainly much easier to understand than the official user manuals.

He also does some good M43 related videos / reviews on YouTube...

Cheers!
 
Does anyone know how to change the program mode when using the custom settings. Mine seems to be stuck on p and I can't change it which sort of defeats the objective. I was looking to have one each for normal, action, long exposure.
 
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Ha! Saltburn! And a shot I've taken more than once :D
 
hoftwi said:
I like this shot Simon, terrific (y) I just bought the G7 and am debating to get the Sigma 60mm or not. What do you think of this lens?
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The Sigma 60mm is a truly stunning lens for the money !
Very well regarded by MU43 users
Regards
Rob
 
I was also choosing between the Sigma and also Oly 45mm, went for Oly in the end as Sigma's AF liked to hunt in videos. Apart from that, its a top lens I agree.
 
Guys I have a couple of questions that you might be able to clarify me.

I have at the moment a DSLR Nikon D3300.

I want to swuitch it for a Full Frame body but I want to go for a mirrorless. At the moment FF mirrorless I think the only available is Sony (correct me if im wrong).

As I was reading I discovered that A lot of people use MFT sensors and one of the best ones is The GH4. So why do people go for this sensor instead of just going for the FF? is MFT better than FF in overall quality?

I had for the first time a good look into the GH4 and I liked the overall look. I read that you can use adapters like you use in Sony's body to use like canon glass. Is that true?

Sorry about all this questions but I want to make the best possible buy as i can.

Cheers
 
You need or want the absolute best IQ than full frame is the way to go. MFT (I use a GX8) will give you IQ that is easily more than good enough for pretty much every application, but it isn't the ultimate in IQ. It does give you superb functionality, amazing quality native glass (zooms and primes), currently the most comprehensive range of native glass of the mirrorless systems ( others are fast catching up) and huge weight savings (note a lot of this saving is in the glass) and the ability to adapt pretty much any legacy lens to fit. But it isn't FF, and it doesn't do continuous AF as well as a DSLR.

People choose MFT for a variety of reasons other than the sensor. For me, the sensor was nowhere near the top of my reasons for choosing MFT, because the IQ from a modern MFT camera is more than good enough for what I want and need.
 
Talking of the GH4, here is one from mine coupled with the 20mm
P1010756 copy.jpg
 
Just for fun as it's the day... G1 does... Eggless cheese filled spicy pancakes.:D



They were very Yum Yum :D
 
Ref GX8. Anyone else noticed that the latest body firmware update has removed the correct metadata for Panasonic lenses!
 
It screws up DXO that's for sure. Can't go back on firmware either!
 
Danones said:
I want to swuitch it for a Full Frame body but I want to go for a mirrorless. At the moment FF mirrorless I think the only available is Sony (correct me if im wrong).

As I was reading I discovered that A lot of people use MFT sensors and one of the best ones is The GH4. So why do people go for this sensor instead of just going for the FF? is MFT better than FF in overall quality?

I had for the first time a good look into the GH4 and I liked the overall look. I read that you can use adapters like you use in Sony's body to use like canon glass. Is that true?
Click to expand...

The only mainstream FF mirrorless cameras currently avilable are the Sonys (disregarding the non mainstream Leica!), albeit with a limited lens range. It is possible to fit Canon lenses to Panasonic bodies using such as the very expensive (£500ish) Metabones Speed Booster, which allows both auto focusing and lens image stabilisation to function. For general photograghy, I don't really see much to gain by taking my large Canon lenses off my Canon 5D Mk 2 and putting them on such as my GH3. I can certainly see the point when video is involved as the GH series are particularly feature rich for video compared to my Canon.
I started with M4/3 cameras to use as a walkabout or travel camera where the light weight and size are clear adantages. I accept the lesser low light capability and limited wide angle capability in these circumstances. However, some Panasonic bodies aren't that small, including the GH3/GH4. The GH4 loses that lightweight portability, it is after all, pretty much the same size as such as the Nikon D3xxx series. It has a very good build quality, is weather sealed and superb for video but remains quite an expensive body. If some of these features aren't needed then a G7 or GX8 might fit the bill for less money and size. I love my GH3 and use it more than any other camera body I own, but for travel, low light or wide angle use it stays at home.
 
I personally also do not see the point in the larger m43 cameras- the ones that are comparable to the APS-C cameras. After all if you need a *medium-sized*camera bag, you may as well put a somewhat larger camera in it. M43 is the ultimate walkabout, with a sweetspot on portablility and IQ. Thus, I've never considered a GH or a G camera, and in fact will upgrade to the smaller still GM5 from my already small EPL5 (once the GM5 prices are "right":)). I do appreciate the weight argument though: APSC and particularly FF glass is much heavier like for like, compared to m43.
 
Borsch said:
I personally also do not see the point in the larger m43 cameras- the ones that are comparable to the APS-C cameras. After all if you need a *medium-sized*camera bag, you may as well put a somewhat larger camera in it. M43 is the ultimate walkabout, with a sweetspot on portablility and IQ. Thus, I've never considered a GH or a G camera, and in fact will upgrade to the smaller still GM5 from my already small EPL5 (once the GM5 prices are "right":)). I do appreciate the weight argument though: APSC and particularly FF glass is much heavier like for like, compared to m43.
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That makes sense if you're only carrying a single, small, lens (although in that case I'd probably choose a large sensor compact). As soon as you are carrying a range of lenses, the size/weight advantages can be very substantial. I usually find the camera body only makes up a small proportion of my total load.
 
The thing with APS-C is that there may not be all that many dedicated APS-C lenses. I mostly use primes and I only had one APS-C prime, a Sigma 30mm f1.4. All of my other primes were FF and actually only one of my zooms was APS-C, a Tamron 17-50mm f2.8.

I've had a mini DSLR Panasonic G1 for years now and with any of my lenses, primes or zooms, it offers a significant bulk and weight saving over my 20D and 5D with a similar lens. No, the G1 wont fit in a pocket and needs to be in a bag but it still offers a significant bulk and weight saving over a DSLR and lens.

I can see the argument that MFT makes the most sense when it's a small body and lens but I think that the mini DSLR's make sense too :D
 
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gcogger said:
That makes sense if you're only carrying a single, small, lens (although in that case I'd probably choose a large sensor compact).
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Imho Gm5 is a better proposition vs a large sensor compact (ie RX100). Similar size, bigger sensor, better glass, twice faster AF... To say nothing about upgradability (save good old lenses, upgrade to a better body).

dkamera_Vergleichstest_Sony_Cybershot_DSC_RX100_III_vs_Panasonic_Lumix_DMC_GM5_01.jpg


Check out the difference in AF speed @6:34

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fk8n-V1Afhw
 
Borsch said:
Imho Gm5 is a better proposition vs a large sensor compact (ie RX100). Similar size, bigger sensor, better glass, twice faster AF... To say nothing about upgradability (save good old lenses, upgrade to a better body).
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Looks to be a nice camera but back screen shooting isn't for me but I think they do a similar camera with a VF don't they?

Question though... are these cameras electronic shutter only and if so does this give banding under artificial light just as my GX7 does?

I bought a Panasonic LF1 to use as my smallest go anywhere camera but even though they say it has the same chip as the top of the line LXx model I have to say that the image quality borders on unacceptable for me for anything but whole image sunny day shots viewed casually, but I was never much of a fan of the image quality of the LXx cameras I had so I could be interested in a very small MFT camera.
 
woof woof said:
Looks to be a nice camera but back screen shooting isn't for me but I think they do a similar camera with a VF don't they?
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The GM5 does have a viewfinder. Its the GM1 that doesn't. I'm assuming the shutter is the same as my GM1 which is mechanical up to 1/500 and then goes to electronic.
 
How does the GX8 compare to the older GH4? I shoot more stills and was wondering if the sensor in the GX8 is "better"?
 
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