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If you use Auto White Balance (which I think most people do) the camera thinks you are taking a photo in daylight - probably daylight around the middle of the day, I'd guess - if you are not then the result will look odd because the colour of light from bulbs is not the same as daylight.
You need to alter the white balance on the camera to compensate for the different colour of light given out by the bulbs.
You can also alter the colour temperature in PP, but its probably better to get it right in the camera.
Dave
You need to alter the white balance on the camera to compensate for the different colour of light given out by the bulbs.
You can also alter the colour temperature in PP, but its probably better to get it right in the camera.
Dave
HoppyUK
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It's the colour temperature of the lights. Fluoresecents are quite variable - some warmish like regular bulbs, strips a bit greenish, or anything inbetween!
Options are - try the pre-sets and either the fluorscent or tungsten settings might be close enough. If not, then a custom white balance (see handbook) should get it pretty much perfect, or you can correct it in post processing - shooting Raw gives you more scope with this. A handy way of doing that is to include a white target in one of the pictures and you can reference that in post processing with the dropper and that will automatically correct every shot taken under the same light.
Options are - try the pre-sets and either the fluorscent or tungsten settings might be close enough. If not, then a custom white balance (see handbook) should get it pretty much perfect, or you can correct it in post processing - shooting Raw gives you more scope with this. A handy way of doing that is to include a white target in one of the pictures and you can reference that in post processing with the dropper and that will automatically correct every shot taken under the same light.
OP
gtc
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Hi Richard just tryed the dropper in photoshop and it worked thankyou
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gtc
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Hi Dave will try live view and see what happens regards
Bristolian
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David,
Take a look at the bulbs you are using as many of them have the colour temperature marked on them. When converting to low-energy bulbs last year I made sure to buy ones with the same temperature (2700K ~ warm white) and set that as a preset in my WB.
HTH
Take a look at the bulbs you are using as many of them have the colour temperature marked on them. When converting to low-energy bulbs last year I made sure to buy ones with the same temperature (2700K ~ warm white) and set that as a preset in my WB.
HTH
Has anybody tried the Expodisc for setting the white balance. I bought one a few months ago and must say I'm well impressed with it so far. Bit expensive but worth it. No more guessing attach it to the front of the lens, take a reading in preset mode and job done in a matter of seconds.
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It's just a slightly different way of doing a custom white balance. Same as off a white card, or even with a coffee filter over the lens. As you say, a bit expensive
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gtc
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Hi Steve thats interesting did not know there are different temperature mine are cool whiteDavid,
Take a look at the bulbs you are using as many of them have the colour temperature marked on them. When converting to low-energy bulbs last year I made sure to buy ones with the same temperature (2700K ~ warm white) and set that as a preset in my WB.
HTH
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gtc
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Hi Richard i am a newbe do i custom white balance with the lights on if so does the white card not end up with the orange tint regardsIt's just a slightly different way of doing a custom white balance. Same as off a white card, or even with a coffee filter over the lens. As you say, a bit expensive
HoppyUK
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Use anything clean white - not creamy or with an artificial blue whitener in it. Anything really - card, paper, envelope, table cloth. All these will get you very close, or spot on. White balance isn't the exact science it's sometimes made out to be - consistency is more important than absolute accuracy.
Take a picture of it with the same light falling on it as the subject. Then use that image as your reference for setting custom white balance. It's usually enough just to have the white area cover the centre circle in the viewfinder - see handbook.
It doesn't matter what white balance setting you take that reference picture on. You're just telling the camera that this should be a neutral colour, and it then zeros the red, green and blue channels.
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gtc
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Thankyou Richard for you time in explaning white balance
flossie
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Yes, that's the whole point of doing a white balance, you take something you know to be perfectly white and then the camera (or your software later) will know how to adjust the overall picture to match, both colour temperature and any funny tints (don't get me started on the nasties that come from compact flourescents...).
Piece of paper from your printer is ideal and no cost, although you may need to angle it if its a bit shiny - depending on the lighting.
You can even use someone's white shirt (News cameraman's trick) if you want something quick without reframing...
HoppyUK
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You're welcome bud
Just a few comments.
Auto white balance is notoriously unreliable in artifical light, and it can also vary from shot to shot. This is bad. So if you have more than a couple of snaps to do, you'll be better off with one of the pre-sets so at least they will all be the same and you can batch-correct them in post processing. Custom white balance is obviously preferable if there's time for that.
With fluorescents, not only do they vary, but both the brightness and the colour can change if you shoot at higher shutter speeds, like 1/250sec, because they flicker at 50cyles per minute. The longer you can make the shutter speed the better, but fractions of 1/50sec are best - like 1/25sec, 1/50sec or 1/100sec etc.
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You're welcome bud
Just a few comments.
Auto white balance is notoriously unreliable in artifical light, and it can also vary from shot to shot. This is bad. So if you have more than a couple of snaps to do, you'll be better off with one of the pre-sets so at least they will all be the same and you can batch-correct them in post processing. Custom white balance is obviously preferable if there's time for that.
With fluorescents, not only do they vary, but both the brightness and the colour can change if you shoot at higher shutter speeds, like 1/250sec, because they flicker at 50cyles per minute. The longer you can make the shutter speed the better, but fractions of 1/50sec are best - like 1/25sec, 1/50sec or 1/100sec etc.
I think that should be 50 cycles per second or 50 Hertz.
As each cycle has 2 peaks and 2 zeros then the flicker is actually 100 times a second.
HoppyUK
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I think that should be 50 cycles per second or 50 Hertz.
As each cycle has 2 peaks and 2 zeros then the flicker is actually 100 times a second.
Oops! You might be right!
