one light setup

derrycity

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phil
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first time doing studio shots please be gentle i have only one lencarta light with shoot through brolly
 
nice shots 2 and 3 need cropped slightly to place the subjects more central in the image otherwise well done.
 
I think thats a great result. Have I missed it, what light did you use, studio or a speedlite type flash?
 
thanks for the feed back on these
andrew i used a lencarta smartflash with a shoot through brolly p;aced directly in front slightly high and tilted down at 45 degress onto the subject i made manual adjustments to the output power as i have not got a light meter ( next on my list )
thanks
 
Pretty good, especially for a first attempt. I'd agree with others, be sure to crop the images so the subjects are centred. I'd also suggest that the final image colours are a little cold. I'd try warming them up a little in post processing. Apart from that well done!
 
I like them, for me thats quite nice lighting for a single brolly and a group shot like that.
agree about cropping and colour, but still, thumbs up.
maybe a little more distance from the backdrop, possibly a reflector to add a little fill under some of then (I'm reflector obsessed). nice stuff though.
 
Just a quick question, thought it was a decent place to post it here - I've recently got a flashgun, and if I just shoot with it, images are overexposed - I have to adjust the aperture until it's stopped down enough for the image to be perfectly exposed. This obviously takes a few shots to get the exposure right, and is slightly annoying.

Is there any way around this. I'd quite like to have some shots at f/2.8 instead of having to have them at f/16 ;)
 
Just a quick question, thought it was a decent place to post it here - I've recently got a flashgun, and if I just shoot with it, images are overexposed - I have to adjust the aperture until it's stopped down enough for the image to be perfectly exposed. This obviously takes a few shots to get the exposure right, and is slightly annoying.

Is there any way around this. I'd quite like to have some shots at f/2.8 instead of having to have them at f/16 ;)

Provided you aren't firing it directly at your subjects (Which you should almost never do). Try bouncing it off of walls/ceilings or diffusing it.
 
Provided you aren't firing it directly at your subjects (Which you should almost never do). Try bouncing it off of walls/ceilings or diffusing it.

I am bouncing all the time (don't think I've actually fired directly at a subject yet), but that still doesn't give me the lovely f/2.8 I'm wanting..maybe I'll have to take it a step further and start using manual settings on the flash as well (actually saying 1/8 or 1/16)
 
I took this of my friend the other day. Again It's a one light setup, the flash gun is pointed directly at the subject. The light was quite harsh, but I found that when reproduced to black and white it had a pretty good look to it. I added a little noise too, juts gave the shot a bit of grit.

Jack-is-hard.jpg


I'd recommend trying this setup, easy and effective.
 
Reduce power of flash
Move flash away from subject

Mike

Yeah. I think at the moment it's on "TTL(M)"? Which I believe just fires a full-power blast. I'll try programming in the settings in future. Any tips on what to go for for a decent try? I'm thinking around 1/8 or 1/16?
 
Just a quick question, thought it was a decent place to post it here - I've recently got a flashgun, and if I just shoot with it, images are overexposed - I have to adjust the aperture until it's stopped down enough for the image to be perfectly exposed. This obviously takes a few shots to get the exposure right, and is slightly annoying.

Is there any way around this. I'd quite like to have some shots at f/2.8 instead of having to have them at f/16 ;)

A wide aperture requires less light so it's pretty obvious that flash power has to be reduced. However, once you reduce flash power then the ration between flash and ambient changes and the flash will then start to lose its dominance and turn into fill light, so then the exposure is dictated by the ambient light reading.

I generally set my aperture and adjust flash power until it gets me the right exposure. Then I adjust shutter speed to control the ambient, but not to the point where the SS is stupidly slow - indoors I generally aim for 1/80th or thereabouts. ISO is usually 200 or 400, whatever gives me the overall exposure I want.

The main problems is subject to flash distance. The ambient will generally stay the same in a room unless you're shooting not a light source. It may drop off towards the corners if it' a single ceiling light. But if you're moving in and out to the subject and the flash is going with you, in manual mode you then have to make lots of tweaks.

I usually just have a flash on a remote trigger in a set position and then I can move freely around the room; the flash power stays the same so the flash exposure (controlled by the aperture) stays the same, and I just control the look of the ambient exposure with the shutter speed. In this instance just be mindful of exceeding the sync speed of your camera, usually 1/250th.
 
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