On Shutters

Ian Grant said:
There's more than one, Grandagon, and later Grandagon-N f4.5 of f6.8, I have the f6.8 N and it's a superb lens.

Ian
Click to expand...
The N are above what I am prepared to pay for the moment, the Grandagon 90 MC i have found a good one, serviced, at the what seems a reasonable price when compared to the N. Its f6.8
 
Last edited:
@Barney, before you buy a 90mm lens I'd better check the minimum bellows draw perhaps. At 90mm you may be screwed as far a a full set of movements go. When I got the camera I used a 135mm convertible Schneider lens and never used it with anything wider.
 
1769186525858.png

PeterSpencer said:
@Barney, before you buy a 90mm lens I'd better check the minimum bellows draw perhaps. At 90mm you may be screwed as far a a full set of movements go. When I got the camera I used a 135mm convertible Schneider lens and never used it with anything wider.
Click to expand...

I did wonder that. A 90mm should focus with a standard lens board but will be extremely tight, hence the sales literature suggesting a deep recessed lens board with the 90mm lens. The other issue is the width of the Grandagon f6.8 front cell, they show the early 50mm f8 in the Compur #00 shutter, might be tricky using the controls.

Ian
 
The illustration of the deep recessed lens board I posted yesterday showed the 65mm f8 SA in a Compur #00 lens. For comparison here are two new (as in unused) shutters.

shutter-sizes2.jpg

Left is a Compur #0. right a Prontor #00. The different sized Compur, Prontor, and Copal shutters are all have very similar dimensions, and the same thread sizes.

Ian
 
Does the flash connection go on the shutter or the lens?
 
Barney said:
Does the flash connection go on the shutter or the lens?
Click to expand...
Obviously, on the shutter - that's what you're synchronising to.
 
Are they standard on all shutters or do I need a specific type?
 
Barney said:
Are they standard on all shutters or do I need a specific type?
Click to expand...

Only US shutters use different flash connections, so you will be fine, British, French, German, and Japanese shutters, all use the same which is an International standard.

Ian
 
Ian Grant said:
Only US shutters use different flash connections, so you will be fine, British, French, German, and Japanese shutters, all use the same which is an International standard.
Click to expand...
Take a look at the Jollinger page (above). While newer shutters tend to use coaxial plug, I've had the "pleasure" of making up cables for several shutters over the years.
 
StephenM said:
That at least is clear.

Get a 150mm lens with a shutter. That's all you need until you know what you want. If you can find one, get a Symmar - NOT Apo Symmar, NOT Symmar S. Reasons withheld to avoid confusing you.
Click to expand...

Morning,

What is a fair price for this lens in copal 1, clean glass and CLA?
 
Roughly £150 for a 150mm Symmar or Symmar S, a lot more if it has just had a CLA. Personally, I'd go for the Symmar S, they are in Copal #0 shutters. I have a 135mm version.

Ian
 
Ian Grant said:
Roughly £150 for a 150mm Symmar or Symmar S, a lot more if it has just had a CLA. Personally, I'd go for the Symmar S, they are in Copal #0 shutters. I have a 135mm version.

Ian
Click to expand...
Thanks for reply

What is the benefit of Symmar S?
 
It is more modern, slight optical design improvements, and multi coated, so a newer shutter. Older plain 150mm Symmar lenses will have had a lot of professional use.

Ian
 
Ian Grant said:
It is more modern, slight optical design improvements, and multi coated, so a newer shutter. Older plain 150mm Symmar lenses will have had a lot of professional use.

Ian
Click to expand...
Will it still have dual focal lengths?
 
Barney said:
Will it still have dual focal lengths?
Click to expand...

No, but when using just the rear elements of a Symmar the results are very soft even stopped down, OK for soft focus portraits. Not a reason to buy one.

With leaf shutters you need to listen to how smooth the slow speeds are, 1 second & ½ second, they must not falter or hang. If you buy from a dealer you would get a 6 month warranty.

Ideally you need to meet up with an experienced LF user, you are probably too far from me.

Ian
 
Ian Grant said:
No, but when using just the rear elements of a Symmar the results are very soft even stopped down, OK for soft focus portraits. Not a reason to buy one.

With leaf shutters you need to listen to how smooth the slow speeds are, 1 second & ½ second, they must not falter or hang. If you buy from a dealer you would get a 6 month warranty.

Ideally you need to meet up with an experienced LF user, you are probably too far from me.

Ian
Click to expand...
Just looked at some symmar s and coating deterioration on the inner looks like a common problem
 
Schneider lens sometimes suffer from what's termed Schneideritis, it is not a coating issue and has no effects on image quality at all. It sometimes happens with other manufacturers lenses. It is where the edges of glass elements have been painted black.

Ian
 
Ian Grant said:
Schneider lens sometimes suffer from what's termed Schneideritis, it is not a coating issue and has no effects on image quality at all. It sometimes happens with other manufacturers lenses. It is where the edges of glass elements have been painted black.

Ian
Click to expand...
Are Nikon W any good?
 
Ian Grant said:
Yes, excellent lenses, I have a Nikkor 240mm W.

Ian
Click to expand...
I bet you have every lens going, Ha Ha.

I can only find them in 0 and max SS of 125 bothers me.
 
Barney said:
I bet you have every lens going, Ha Ha.

I can only find them in 0 and max SS of 125 bothers me.
Click to expand...

A 150mm f5.6 Nikkor W is always in a #0 Copal, top speed is 1/500,

Copal #0 1/500
Copal #1 1/400
Copal #3 1/125

Copal never made a #2 sized shutter.

150mm f5.6 and slower are in #0 shutters. f4.5 #1, f3.5 in obsolete Compur #2

210mm f5.6 and slower are in #1 shutters. f4.5 in #3

90mm WA lenses are generally in #0 shutters inc the 90mm f4.5 Nikkor SW, the exception is the 90m f4.5 Geronar which is in a Copal #0

Ian
 
Barney said:
I bet you have every lens going, Ha Ha.

I can only find them in 0 and max SS of 125 bothers me.
Click to expand...

Remember that typically you won't be using a large format camera to photograph cricket matches where you positively have to freeze the ball in flight just before the batsman thwacks it.

More seriously, you will normally have a lens of f/5.6 or slower (I have some f/9) and will be stopping down for depth of field or coverage. Lens specs for coverage are usually given for f/16.

The slower shutter speeds are more relevant to me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top